EBBC Banjo Referrence & Playing Information Table Of Contents 1. Choosing a Banjo 2. Selecting a Pick 3. Selecting Strings 4. Tuning the Banjo 5. Banjo Heads Explained 6. The Banjo Neck 7. Selecting a Bridge 8. Banjo Part Rhythm Sheets 9. Playing Rhythm 10.Playing in a Band 11.Playing Chord Melody (Lead) 12.Song Introductions 13.Changing Keys These articles are intended for anyone interested in banjos, banjo owners and banjo players The purpose of these articles is to introduce the mechanics of the banjo and share my 50 plus years of banjo playing experiences with others. Some mechanical issues are very critical and I highly suggest that before making adjustments to a banjo to please use this referrence and also confer with someone experienced for advice. Enjoy EBBC and playing your banjo, Larry Risner 01/29/2021 L.Risner Choosing a Banjo Banjos come in various models and sizes for various uses and personal preferrences. Before purchasing a banjo a few decisions should to be made that include the type of music to play, the banjo tone and the banjo size. Banjo Ukulele – a small ukulele sized 4 string banjo usually played and a tuned as a ukulele. Due to it's small size it is very high-pitched. Tenor banjo – a short neck length 4 string banjo that was commonly played in early 1900's orchestras and homes. Because of its tuning it has a strong rhythm “punch” sound. Many Dixieland and trad jazz bands prefer the tenor banjo because of its punch and uplifting tonal quality. It has a “joyful” and uplifting sound that cuts through nicely. Tenor, plectrum or guitar tuning can be used with the corresponding strings. Some prefer this model because of its shorter neck and its easier to transport. Plectrum banjo – A full neck length that is the same as the guitar. This 4 or 6 string banjo can be tuned and played as a guitar (Chicago tuning) or use plectrum banjo tuning. The plectrum banjo much like a guitar, has a variety of tones that is dependant on where on the neck it is played but it does lack the crispness of a tenor banjo. This banjo is also preferred by trad jazz bands because of its mellower tones and is very nice for blues. The baritone ukeulele can also be guitar or plectrum tuned. Bluegrass banjo - Same as the plectrum with an added 5th string. This banjo is usually picked using multiple individual “finger picks”. It can use plectrum or bluegrass “D” tuning. It can be played the same as the 4-string plecrum by simply removing the 5th string. The main difference from a plectrum 4- string banjo is the 5-string banjo neck is wider than the 4-string plectrum neck to accommodate the 5th shorter “G” string and will be a bit harder to form chords. Note: The banjo club has banjos available to borrow with a returnable deposit and optionally purchase. Beginners might consider this club service before investing in an expensive instrument. Most beginners start with inexpensive instruments and upgrade to more expensive banjos as their skills improve. 01/29/2021 L.Risner Selecting a Pick This article is focused on the “flat pick” used by 4-string banjoists not the “finger picks” used by 5-string bluegrass banjo players. Selecting the “right” pick for yourself can be a daunting experience of trial and error. Picks come in a wide variety of materials, thickness and shape and finding the right one for your use can be very frustrating. It happens that asking others for advice isn't a always helpful. Everyone has their own opinion on the best one to use but it's really an individual personal preference. Over the years I have used a variety of picks and have settled on one style and firmness that works well for me. Up into the early 1960's the pick of choice for professional banjo players was made of real tortoise shell. Besides being somewhat expensive they were subject to breakage and were discontinued when synthetic material picks became available. Unlike plastic picks nylon and teflon picks can last for years of playing. I bought a triangular teflon pick in the late 1960's and used it for 40 over years. It was slightly worn but over time it developed a curve which made it difficult to tremolo. So I then started the trial and error process selecting a new pick of choice for me. I didn't even consider the plastic picks because they easily break and it' always happens at exactly the wrong place and time. The most common style flat pick shape used these days is a “pointed oval” used by both guitar and banjo players. At I first thought that a stiff rigid pick would be best because the tortoise shell picks were also very stiff as was the teflon pick I had used. I found that to tremolo with the stiff pick I had to loosen my grip on the pick because when holding it tight it was not easy to strum up and down or tremolo (the sweeping of the pick continuously and smoothly up and down across all of the strings is called a tremolo). I then tried a thin flexible pick and found that it was difficult to selectively pick notes with any volume no matter how hard I held the pick but it did glide nicely across the strings for tremolos. My final choice was a medium pick that I found was good for both picking and tremolos. I could hold the pick loose to play softly and hold it tighter to play louder. I also carry a thick pick for playing louder if I need to. Once you find the pick of your choice be sure to buy a few spares in case of loss. Also, you should always have a spare pick stored somewhere on the instrument so if you drop your pick while playing and you can quickly grab the spare pick to continue playing. Pick holders are available for holding a spare pick on the instrument. The thickness of picks is measured in millimeters and I found the Dunlop Maxi-Grip 0.73mm pick best for me. These are inexpensive nylon picks that come in packs of 12 for very little cost. These picks are available in other thicknesses but thinner or thicker didn't work for me as I previously described. Picks are easy to drop while playing especially if it is loosely held so some picks will have slight ridges, bumps or holes to help you grip them. The Dunlop Maxi-Grip picks have little bumps to help hold them. If you need to experiment in finding the right pick for you buy a few with various thicknesses to try and when you have determined which thickness is the best for you buy a few more. Picks are available at music stores and online from sweetwater.com or on ebay.com. Selecting a pick is an individual preference and you really have to do some trail and error until you find the right one for you. 01/29/2021 L.Risner Selecting Strings Selecting strings for an instrument is a trial and error effort with personal preferences. String selection will effect the tonal sound quality of a banjo. An inexpensive instrument can sound good or bad just as an expensive instrument can sound good or bad. An instrument can also sound good to one person and not so good to another so strings selection is a final step in seeking the sound you prefer. Ukuleles and guitars usually have wooden bodies with fixed-in-place bridges that are not adjustable so the strings are the only variables. Banjoleles and banjos on the other hand have movable bridges the sit on the banjo head that effect adjusting the tuning and sound quality. It's most important to make sure the bridge is properly positioned on the head and the head is correctly tightened before tuning and experimenting with string selection. I play a 4-string plectrum banjo and I preferred using Gibson SBG-571 string sets with wound 3rd & 4th strings. It's almost impossible to find these string sets today so I have settled on GHS PF-180 M 5-string sets that have a mellower sound than the “lighter” string sets. These sets are readily available and I can always find them on the internet for around $4/set. Plectrum sets are not very common so I use these and discard the unused 5th string. You also have to make sure the string end that connects to the tail piece is the correct type. They can be either looped, ferruled or plain and only the correct type will work on an instrument. Another concern might be the string length but if you buy the correct string set for the instrument that should not be a problem. The factory string sets have pre-selected gauges so when they are all properly tuned the string tensions are closely matched. Individual strings are available but I change them all at one time so complete sets work for me. You should also change the complete set of strings should one break or if they haven't been changed for some time. I change mine routinely every six months because they do lose tonal quality over time and you risk breakage due to wear. Strings can be changed quickly and easily if you simply wrap the end 3 times around the tuning nut then pass the end through the hole in the nut and pull it tight.