OUR HOLIDAY GREETING CARD TO THE WORLD DECEMBER 2006 Celebrate SeasonTHE $3.99 US/$4.99 CAN Special Holiday Issuepages 4-31 december 2006 OdeArizona’s best poets and photographers to Joy reflect on the gifts of the landscape. 32 Skating on Native Ice Canyon skating makes the most of remote frozen pools in Red Rock Country. BY DOUG MCGLOTHLIN / PHOTOGRAPHS BY GEOFF GOURLEY contents 38 Ghost of Christmas Past A Fort Huachuca historic home tour includes holiday spirits. BY JANET WEBB FARNSWORTH / PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDWARD MCCAIN 40 A Shiver of History Christmas sparkles in Canyon de Chelly. BY GREG McNAMEE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVE STROM 44 Edge of Transformation Grand Canyon’s Rim divides loss from redemption. BY PETER ALESHIRE Departments 2 ALL WHO WANDER What do poets and photographers have in common? 50 ALONG THE WAY Black tears still seep from the USS Arizona. 52 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE A former boomtown awaits online arizonahighways.com along a winding road. Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the season to enjoy Arizona’s natural beauty. This month, northern Arizona glistens 56 HIKE OF THE MONTH with snowy landscapes while warmer parts of the state offer Seven Falls highlights a holiday fun in the desert sun. No matter whether you like things 4-mile Tucson trek. hot or cold, visit arizonahighways.com and click on our December “Trip Planner” for: • Holiday happenings • A winter recreation guide • The lowdown on Petrified Forest dinosaurs HUMOR Our writer visits the Ghost of Christmas Past. ONLINE EXTRA Backpack along the challenging Safford-Morenci Trail. WEEKEND GETAWAY Take a ride on the Polar Express. HISTORY Read an Army scout’s account of Geronimo’s exploits. EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan a trip with our calendar of events. Photographic Prints Available TWICE BLESSED As seen from Mather Point, a double rainbow arcs into the Grand Canyon near Zoroaster Temple. PAUL LEATHERBURY n To order a print of this photograph, see information on opposite page. n Prints of some photographs are available for purchase, as FRONT COVER An 18-inch snowfall in March of this year lured photographer Elias Butler to Brins Mesa north of Sedona, where, nearing sunset, designated in captions. To order, spiky agave leaves spearing through mounds of pristine precipitation near Wilson Mountain caught his eye. ELIAS BUTLER call toll-free (866) 962-1191 or visit n To order a print of this photograph, see information on opposite page. www.magazineprints.com. BACK COVER Along the West Fork of Oak Creek in the Coconino National Forest north of Sedona, manganese oxide and clay particles on a cliff’s porous sandstone surface have formed streaks of desert varnish, a dramatic backdrop for a snow-covered streamside fir tree. ROBERT G. MCDONALD n To order a print of this photograph, see information on opposite page. Arizona, Deming’s most recent books JEANNINE SAVARD: An associate professor Poets and Photographers include Writing the Sacred Into the Real and of English at Arizona State University, Genius Loci, from which “Driving Savard has taught in ASU’s MFA Creative DECEMBER 2006 VOL. 82, NO. 12 Harmonize Through Nature” was taken. She has won Writing Program since 1992 and Publisher WIN HOLDEN numerous prizes including the Walt published several volumes of poetry, Editor PETER ALESHIRE Whitman Award and a Pushcart Prize. including Trumpeter and My Hand Upon Senior Editor BETH DEVENY Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN PHOTONS AND POETS DRUM HADLEY . Photography Peter Ensenberger to marry those poems to : A cowboy and rancher on Your Name. Web/Research Editor SALLY BENFORD Cliffs and couplets. images submitted by the world’s best landscape photographers. the New Mexico-Arizona border for 40 RICHARD SHELTON: An award-winning Book Division Editor BOB ALBANO Late light and last lines. Then we tried to figure out what to call it. years, Hadley’s books include Strands of regents professor in creative writing at the Books Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL Special Projects Editor JOBETH JAMISON Poets and landscape photographers share a luminous vision of That’s when I remembered the smudged piece of paper I Rawhide and Spirit by the Deep Well Tank. University of Arizona, Shelton has written Editorial Administrator NIKKI KIMBEL the same universe — seen and unseen, explicit and mysterious. found in the top drawer of my father’s bedside table after he A founding member of the Malpai nine poetry books and hundreds of Editorial Assistant PAULY HELLER Landscape photographers are poets of the image. They died of colon cancer. He was a brave and faithful man, who Borderlands Group, an ecosystem journal articles. He has won many honors, Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK don’t just seek a face, an event, a moment. They seek the soul fought hard against the cancer and died with such grace and management project, his poems in this including a Pulitzer Prize nomination. His Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY of a place. They trudge all day past foregrounds and middle love that his death was a triumph that overwhelmed me. Dazed issue are from Voice of the Borderlands. works include Going Back to Bisbee, The Art Assistant DIANA BENZEL-RICE grounds toward hazy horizons, searching with insatiable eyes. with grief, I found the scrap of a note on which he’d written a HERSHMAN JOHN: Navajo-born for the Tattooed Desert and others. He has taught Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY Finally, the sun slants through the thick atmosphere to reveal poem in his shaky hand, just before the cancer went to his brain Deer Spring People and the Bitter Water at UA for 46 years and won acclaim for his Production Director MICHAEL BIANCHI Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON some hidden truth. They seek not a record but a feeling and and stole him away. People, John’s poems and short stories prison-based writing workshops. Webmaster VICKY SNOW succeed only when the beauty all but breaks your heart. He wrote: have appeared in numerous journals with PEGGY SHUMAKER: After growing up in Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO all who wander all Like the poets of words. They also seek the soul of the Mark the joyful hour a book of poems to be published next year then-rural Tucson, Shumaker became an Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN moment — longing and love layered like sandstone. They Amidst life’s dismay and pain, by the University of Arizona Press. He award-winning poet whose most recent Finance Director BOB ALLEN don’t analyze, they evoke. They seek the last long light of the For only it endures also teaches at Phoenix College. book is Blaze, a collaboration with the Information Technology CINDY BORMANIS four words that fit perfectly together, hoping to describe one And unto death remains. RITA MAGDALENO: A recreational river- painter Kesler Woodward. As writer in moment so vividly that it speaks truth about all moments. So we have called this marriage of words and images our runner, Magdaleno’s poem “River Run” residence for the Arizona Commission on Inquiries or orders Toll-free: (800) 543-5432 Phoenix area or outside the U.S. (602) 712-2000 The idea for this issue emerged one day as I sat with Earl “Ode to Joy,” in hopes that the words and the images will appeared in Fever Dreams. The native the Arts, she worked with prison inmates, Or visit arizonahighways.com de Berge, a public opinion researcher who is a poet at heart. remain with you a long while. Arizonan teaches in Tucson and wrote a gang members, teen parents and others. For Corporate or Trade Sales Dolores Field (602) 712-2045 We enlisted the help of Cynthia Hogue at Arizona State Merry Christmas, beloved readers. poetic memoir, Marlene Dietrich, Rita She currently teaches and lives in Letters to the Editor [email protected] University’s Creative Writing Program and Frances Sjoberg, at Let me introduce you to our poets: Hayworth, & My Mother, published by the Fairbanks, Alaska. For information, see 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009 the University of Arizona Poetry Center. They asked the top University of Arizona Press. www.peggyshumaker.com. Governor by Peter Aleshire, editor poets in the state to submit poems centered on the landscape. BYRD BAYLOR: Living in an adobe house in Arivaca without CARL MARCUM: A teacher at DePaul LUSIA SLOMKOWSKA: Slomkowska’s work JANET NAPOLITANO The poets responded: A writer of children’s books, who lives electricity and working on a manual typewriter, naturalist University in Chicago, Marcum earned an has been published in a variety of Director, Department of Transportation alongside a creek without electricity and Baylor has written prolifically, mainly for children, animated MFA in creative writing at the University American and European magazines and VICTOR M. MENDEZ SUNRISE STANZA writes on a manual typewriter; a man who by her passion for the desert, its animals, people and of Arizona, received a fellowship from newspapers, including Fotographia, Icarus, ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD Like a thoughtful Chairman James W. Martin poet dashing off a remembers the Navajo sheep camp of his landforms. She has won numerous awards, including a Stanford University and a grant from New Letters, Parnassus, Quarterly West and Vice Chairman Joe Lane Members S.L. Schorr, Delbert Householder, first line, the sun youth; a rancher whose day job is to save Caldecott Honor with illustrator Peter Parnall for The Way to the National Endowment for the Arts, The Tucson Weekly. She lives in Tucson. Robert M. Montoya, Felipe Andres Zubia, greets the San Simon the land through enlightened livestock Start a Day. and in 2001 published Cue Lazarus. DEAN STOVER: A GateWay Community William J.