1 FCVC 2019 Supporters We would like to warmly thank the following organisations for their generous support of FCVC2019, and the continuing development of the FCVC Network: 2 FCVC 2019 The 2nd Annual Conference of the Fashion, Costume and Visual Cultures Network. 9th-11th July 2019 - Roubaix, France Fashion, Costume and Visual Cultures (#FCVC2019), is the second annual three-day interdisciplinary conference of the FCVC Network, hosted by IMMD and local venues in Roubaix, and co-convened by Dr Sarah Gilligan (Hartlepool College, UK) and Dr Graham H. Roberts (Paris Nanterre University). The conference will bring international established, early career and emerging academics and practitioners together in order to explore key issues, theoretical debates, new methodologies and case studies exploring fashion and costume design and their distinct, yet simultaneously symbiotic relationship within contemporary and historical visual cultures. We are proud to be working in close collaboration with UK independent publisher Intellect on the conference, and the wider activities of the Fashion, Costume and Visual Cultures Network. Delegates will be encouraged and supported to develop their FCVC 2019 papers for consideration to be published within one of Intellect’s extensive range of journals, and to develop individual and collaborative journal and book projects. Thanks are due to our colleagues at our respective institutions for their support and assistance and for those organisations (listed opposite) who have provided generous financial and in-kind support. We would also like to sincerely thank our FCVC 2019 designers Ivan Klanac and Roko Jurjević for all their hard work – particularly with our website (www.fcvcnetwork.com), and FCVC Network co-founder Petra Krpan - who unfortunately can’t be with us this year - but remains an integral part of the FCVC Network and our future plans. Collegiality, collaboration and conviviality underpin the ethos of the Fashion, Costume and Visual Cultures Network and we strive to professionally and personally support scholars and practitioners wherever in the world, and at whatever stage of their careers they may be. Through discussing ideas, work-in-progress and also by exploring and tackling the challenges we each face, not only will the rigour and originality of the field grow from strength to strength, but our academic community will thrive. We wish to warmly thank all those near and far who have so fantastically supported our vision for the conference and the FCVC Network. The FCVC Network started life as a series of conversations over cheese and wine in Bloomsbury, London in the summer of 2017 and we remain ever grateful for the continued encouragement, friendship, and practical assistance of all those involved. We are indebted to all those in our personal and professional lives who have supported, listened, made us smile, sent messages, shared songs and photos, and kept us going as we juggle plates whilst roller skating backwards in our hamster wheels! Academia is challenging enough at the best of times, and you make us believe that it is all possible – even on the worst days. Thanks to all of you, FCVC2018 was not a one-off event, and you have helped minimise that ‘difficult second album’ syndrome! We are looking forward to the exciting and interesting range of papers at FCVC 2019 and to spending time with our delegates in Roubaix and Lille this summer. We hope you all have a fantastic and memorable time in France, and hopefully we’ll see you in Zagreb, Croatia for FCVC2020 (14-16 July – dates TBC). Without our international delegates, there would be no FCVC Network or conference, and with that, it’s over to you! 3 FCVC 2019 Conference Organisers Dr Sarah Gilligan Sarah Gilligan is currently the Programme Leader for the HE level FDA Design for the Creative Industries programme at Hartlepool College (UK), where she also teaches Art, Design and Contextual Studies on the FE level programmes in the School of Professional and Creative Studies. She has also taught extensively on Media, Film and Photography programmes, and regularly mentors student and newly qualified teachers. Sarah is the President of the FCVC Network which she co-founded with Petra Krpan (Zagreb University). In 2018, Sarah was awarded the highly competitive and prestigious British Academy Rising Star Engagement Award (BARSEA) for the Fashion, Costume and Visual Cultures Network project. To date, she is the only person working in a UK FE college to have received a BARSEA award. Sarah holds a PhD in Media Arts from Royal Holloway, University of London. Her academic research interests and publications centre on the construction, transformation and performance of gendered identities in contemporary visual culture. She is particularly interested in costume, fashion and the body on and beyond the screen in film, TV drama, advertising and photography. She has published articles in Fashion Theory, JAPCC, and Film, Fashion and Consumption journals, together with chapters in a number of edited book collections and her guide Teaching Women and Film (BFI, 2003). She is currently working on co-guest editing special issues of Clothing Cultures, Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion and Queer Studies in Media and Popular Culture (Intellect), together with new collaborative research on costuming and identities in Spanish cinema with Jacky Collins (Northumbria University, UK) and her own practice-based research on tactile transmediality. Sarah is also the Reviews Editor for Film, Fashion and Consumption journal, a member of the Steering Group for Critical Costume and a member of the European Popular Culture Association. Dr Graham H. Roberts Graham H. Roberts teaches at Paris Nanterre University, where he is a member of the Centre de Recherches Plurilingues et Multidisciplinaires (CRPM, EA 4418). He is the author of a DPhil on Soviet literature, and more recently of a monograph on consumer culture in post- Soviet Russia (Routledge, 2016). He also teaches marketing and branding at various institutions in France, including ESMOD-ISEM Roubaix, EDHEC and the University of Lille. A member of the European Popular Culture Association, he has published on a broad range of topics, from shopping malls in Kazakhstan to the politics of European football. In 2017, he edited a volume entitled Material Culture in Russia and the USSR: Things, Values, Identities for Bloomsbury Academic. Associate Editor of the journal Film, Fashion and Consumption, and a member of the Editorial Board of the series Fashion, Dress and Visual Cultures (Anthem Press), Roberts recently co-edited with Vicki Karaminas a special issue of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion devoted to the topic of “Post-Soviet Masculinities” (publication due end 2019). 4 FCVC Network and Intellect in support of CALM (Campaign Against Living Miserably) 1 in 4 people will experience a mental health problem at some point in their life, and in the UK, suicide is the biggest killer of men under the age of 45. Whether it’s you, a friend, colleague, loved one, or a student, the odds are that you know at least one person who is dealing with mental health difficulties. Most of the time, people will cope and find ways to chill out, rest, relax and reboot. For those individuals with mental health problems such as addictions, self-harm, anxiety, depression and eating disorders, a ‘bad day’ may continue, escalate, overwhelm and become a serious issue if an individual does not access specialist support. The Fashion, Costume and Visual Cultures (FCVC) Network is committed to providing supportive spaces for individuals to discuss mental health issues in and beyond academia. At FCVC 2019 we want to enable delegates to feel that they can share their experiences in a supportive, non-judgemental space. The FCVC 2019 conference team want to build a community of scholars and practitioners, and to encourage delegates to talk, listen and support one another at and beyond the conference. Throughout FCVC 2019, the conference team and Intellect will be fundraising in support of CALM (Campaign Against Living Miserably). With prizes from Intellect, Bloomsbury Academic, designer makers Elvis and Kresse, Laura Zabo, Vincetta, and donations from FCVC Network members, raffle tickets will be available throughout the conference from Mareike Wehner at the Intellect stall. So, pop by, check out the discounted books and journals and buy some raffle tickets whilst you’re there. Our prize draw will take place at the end of the conference. If you would like to donate to CALM via the FCVC Network, please talk to Sarah Gilligan. If you are encountering mental health problems contact CALM’s free, confidential helpline on 0800 585 858, or their webchat is open 5pm-12am daily, or visit: https://www.thecalmzone.net/help/webchat/ 5 Keynote Speakers Sophie Kurkdjian Culture(s) de Mode Paris, capital of fashion, 1858-1947 Contributing to a business history of fashion, this research aims to examine how Paris became an internationally recognized fashion capital between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. In 1868, the British-born designer Charles-Frederick Worth founded a Paris-based trade union, the Chambre syndicale de la couture et de la confection pour dames et fillettes, which became in 1911 the Chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne. The Chambre syndicale protected the interests of the couturiers against foreign competition by providing a framework for the ‘made-to-measure’ label, which was only delivered to designers who were deemed to adhere to the standards. The creation of this trade union constituted the first step of the institutionalization of the Parisian fashion industry, eventually allowing it to become as powerful as it is today. This paper will show how the turn of the century represented a shift in the Parisian couture industry as it sought to legitimize the leadership and uniqueness of its made-to-measure industry.