THE DENVER MAGAZINE THE FORTUNE-TELLER’S GUIDE TO DENVER REALSeeking Wisdom ESTATE About The Future Of The Mile-High Market? Our Experts A BEGINNER’S Reveal Their MANUAL TO ROCK Predictions. CLIMBING IN PAGE 72 COLORADO BY KASEY CORDELL THE STATE’S VERY BEST DENTISTS PAGE 108 CAN THREE STARTUPS REMAKE LOCAL NEWS? BY MICHAEL BEHAR MAY 2019 | 5280.com ROCK A beginner’s guide to Colorado climbing. BY KASEY CORDELL SOLID ILLUSTRATIONS BY RAMI NIEMI Credits Tk Credits 92 | 5280 | MAY 2019 Copyright 2 019, 5280 Publishing Inc. Used with permission. Credits Tk Credits A climber midroute on Boulder’s Third Flatiron Copyright 2019, 5280 Publishing Inc. Used with permission. MAY 2019 | 5280 | 93 9 There’s a reason Colorado produces some of the best climbers in the country (a quarter of the national team is from here). With hundreds of climbing areas, the Cen- THE BASICS tennial State owns more rock than just about any other 8 state in the country—and, arguably, some of the most diverse and accessible year-round. But if you weren’t born with a belay device in hand, where do you begin? Once upon a time, climbing was a mentoring sport. More experienced climbers would take ambitious noobs under their wings and safely introduce them to the logistics of climbing: knots, 6 rope work, gear placement, technique, environmental ethics, etc. Today, the popularity of the sport has changed that a little; there are more rookies than mentors. Indoor gyms’ relatively controlled environments are a decent place to start learning (see page 100). There’s also, well, us. Whether you’re looking to dip a sticky-rubber-clad toe into Colorado’s climbing scene or you’re a newly arrived transplant with a crag addiction, this insider’s guide to exploring Centennial State stone delivers the practical information every beginner needs before chalking up. It’s no substitute for a real-life men- tor, but it’s a good first step to finding your place, and your people, in Colorado’s climbing world. The Climber’s Dictionary rope in which the lead climber An occasionally illustrated glossary. clips the rope into bolts that have been drilled into the rock to protect potential falls. 5 Belay: The system and rope assistance from the rope or gear Spot: To watch a boulderer 4 technique used to prevent to move upward. (The rope is from below and be prepared to a climber from falling to the only used to protect falls.) redirect his or her body in a fall ground, with the aid of a belay to prevent serious injury. (10) device (like an assisted-braking Free solo: To climb a route Petzl Grigri or a tubular device without a rope, as Alex Hon- Top-roping: Climbing on a such as an Air Traffic Controller, nold famously did when he rope that hangs from above. or ATC). The partner minding soloed Freerider on Yosemite Typically the rope passes 6 the rope while the other person National Park’s El Capitan. ( ) through an anchor at the top, 1 climbs is called the belayer. ( ) so even if the climber slips Jug: 7 A big, easy-to-grab hold. ( ) off the holds, she will not fall Beta: Information or tips about more than a few inches. (11) a route or problem. (2) Lead: Being the first roped partner up a route; this person Traditional climbing: “Trad” Bouldering: Ascending large clips the rope into bolts or climbing describes rock rocks, typically up to about 20 protection she places as the climbing with a harness and feet in height, or traversing a climb progresses. rope in which the lead climb- 2 low rock face with no ropes. er places gear in cracks and Pitch: Routes on boulders are called A section of rock that other features as she climbs “problems,” and a single boul- can be climbed in a single to protect potential falls. The 7 der will often have multiple rope length; longer routes that second climber removes the problems on it. Boulderers pro- require stops at belay stations gear as he ascends. tect their falls by placing large, are known as multipitch climbs. thick mats—”crash pads”—near the base of the problem. (3) Protection: Often shortened to “pro,” protection encom- 11 Crag: A specific cliff face or passes any of the gear clipped section of rock with multiple along the route or placed in routes on it. Guidebooks often cracks and other rock features break down climbing destina- to catch falls. Some examples: tions, such as Eldorado Canyon camming devices (“cams”), State Park, by crags. (4) hexentrics (“hexes”), nuts, and bolts (which are permanent). A Crimper: A small hold that “rack” is a specific set of pro- 3 requires climbers to clamp tection for a climb. (8) down—or crimp—with their 1 finger tips to hang on. Send: To complete a boulder problem or climbing route Crux: The most difficult part of in its entirety without falling. a route or problem. (5) (“She sent the route on her second try!”) (9) Free climbing: Climbing a 10 route using only the hands, feet, Sport climbing: A form of and other body parts, with no climbing with a harness and 94 | 5280 | MAY 2019 Copyright 2019, 5280 Publishing Inc. Used with permission. THE FANCY FOOTWEAR BETA In search of the perfect climbing shoes. These specialized kicks aren’t as comfortable as your everyday sneaks, but they’re essential to sticking to stone. Specifically shaped to help you feel features in the rock and outfitted with a specially formulated rubber that grips stone better than your Nikes, climbing shoes are a pricey ($80 to $200) but necessary accessory. To find the ideal pair, visit a store with a wide selection (go later because feet swell as the day goes on) and try on a variety of models. We checked in with the experts at Boulder’s Neptune Mountaineering for more Cinderella-ing tips. Making The Grade Understanding U.S. La Sportiva STYLE Whether rock climbing ratings. Finale This you opt for lace- model ($109) ups, Velcro straps, is popular with or slippers is a Sport and traditional rock beginners. personal prefer- climbing routes in this Other La Sportiva faves: Mythos ence. Lace-ups can country are rated using the and Helix. provide a more Yosemite Decimal System customizable fit, (YDS). The YDS starts with but they’re also Class 1 (hiking on flat, easy more of a hassle to terrain), but technical climb- put on and take off. ing ratings begin at 5.0 (pronounced “five zero”) and increase up to 5.15 (five fifteen). Grades 5.10 (five ten) and up are further broken down with letter designations from a to d (5.10a is easier than 5.10d, for example). Grades can be subjective, but here’s generally what to expect. 5.0 to Easy. Large hand 5.4 and foot holds. CAMBER Most beginners will want a shoe with a neutral camber. When you 5.5 to Moderate. Terrain look at it from the side, the shoe will 5.8 that requires basic rock climbing skills. appear fairly flat on the bottom, like this one from La Sportiva, an Italian brand that—like fellow Italian company 5.9 to More difficult. Scarpa—planted its North American 5.10 Routes that necessi- headquarters in Colorado. Climbers tate more advanced techniques. trade some performance for (relative) RUBBER Shoes usually FIT Climbing shoes comfort with these more neutral shoes, have between three and should be snug but not but most novices haven’t yet acquired five millimeters of rubber painful. Toes should 5.11 to Very challenging, the technique that aggressive shoes— on the soles. Typically, touch the ends of the 5.12 technical climbing. with a dramatically down-turned Unless you’re the thicker the rubber, shoes or potentially curl a gifted athlete, shape—allow for anyway. the more durable the a tiny bit. You might end you’re not likely to shoe. Resoling is, howev- up wearing a full size (or succeed on these er, an option. Boulder’s more) smaller than your routes without a lot Rock and Resole and street shoes. You also of practice and MATERIAL Leather or synthetic? One specialized training. isn’t necessarily better than the oth- Estes Park’s Komito want a tight heel cup er. Experts say to go with what feels Boots (you can mail so the back of your foot good to you. Just know that leather them) have both been doesn’t slip when per- 5.13 Spiderman terrain. specializing in climbing forming certain moves. to 5.15 Professional climbers will stretch (sometimes by as much operate in this realm. as a full size if it’s unlined), whereas shoe repair for at least If you can easily get a synthetic materials won’t. three decades. finger between your heel and the shoe, it’s Bouldering The American boul- too big. Women’s mod- Scale dering rating sys- els tend to have smaller tem is known as the STIFFNESS Softer or more flexible shoes that bend more at the mid- heels and sit lower on V scale. It starts with sole and forefoot allow for greater sensitivity when climbing, which V0 and progresses the ankle, so if you have up to V17 (although can help encourage proper technique, especially on overhanging narrow feet—male or very easy problems terrain. But they also hurt and tire the foot more, leading most neo- female—consider those are designated VB, phytes to opt for the stiffer versions until they develop foot strength.