THE ASSOCIATION OF BRITISH MEMBERS OF THE SWISS ALPINE CLUB JOURNAL 1973 CONTENTS Diary for 1973 iv Arctic Norway by Gordon Gadsby 1 A Day or Three by Michael Baker 7 Alpine Meet 1972 by David Riddell 9 High Level Route Incidents by Max Horvat 12 Association Activities 14 Association Accounts 21 Members’ Climbs 24 List of Past and Present Officers 49 Complete List of Members 51 13 Roam the Continent /VyVn Contact your TRAVEL AGENT for all-inclusive arrangements Information: Swiss National Tourist Office Swiss Centre, 1 New Coventry Street London W1V 3HG, Tel. 01-7341921 OFFICERS OF THE ASSOCIATION President D. G. Lambley Monte Rosa Vice Presidents Rev. F. L. Jenkins Monte Rosa M. Bennett Diablerets Honorary Vice F. R. Crepin Geneva B. L. Richards, G. Wl.Interlaken Presidents Geo. Starkey Oberhasli Dr. A. W. Barton Diablerets Vincent O. Cohen, M.C. Engelberg Committee Wing Cmdr. H. D. Archer Diablerets D. E. Charity Monte Rosa R. A. Coatsworth Interlaken J. M. Fairley Grindelwald H. S. Flook Monte Rosa F. P. French Mcmte Rosa O. B. St.John Interlaken H. B. Sales Monte Rosa Prof. E. H. Sondheimer Grindelwald Co-opted M. N. Clarke Monte Rosa A.N. Husbands Monte Rosa A. Jagmetti Swiss Embassy Honorary Secretary Dr. F. A. W. Schweitzer Altels Greys, Merrow, Nr. Guildford, Surrey Honorary New J.E.Jesson Monte Rosa Members Secretary 9 Kiln Lane, Lindfield Heights, Haywards Heath, Sussex RH16 2SZ Honorary Meets S. N. Beare Monte Rosa Secretary 16 Bridstow Place, London, W. 2 Honorary Social P. S. Boulter Monte Rosa Secretary Cairnsmore, Fairway, Merrow, Nr. Guildford, Surrey Honorary Treasurer R.W. Jones Monte Rosa Fairfields, Aston Lane, Ducklington, Nr. Witney, Oxon. Honorary Editor Graham A. Daniels Monte Rosa 14 Middle Street,Elton, Peterborough, PE8 6RA Honorary Librarian W. R. H. Jeudwine Grindelwald 28 Stafford Terrace,London,W8 Honorary Solicitor The Lord Tangley Geneva Honorary Auditor A. Hart Interlaken DIARY FOR 1973 24 January Lecture 'Climbing in the Roscoebjerg' by Harry Sales 14 February Lecture 'The Alpine Ski Traverse' by Dick Sykes 24-25 February Northern Dinner Meet, Glenridding. Leader, Bill Neate Speaker: Dennis Gray 14 March Lecture 'Tirich Mir' by Major John Fleming 11 April Lecture 'Climbing in the Alps and Himalayas' by Dennis Gray 18-25 April Easter Meets Betws-y-Coed. Leader, Maurice Bennett Nant Peris. Leader, John Fairley 9 May Wine Party:-Short talks 25-28 May Meet, Wasdale Head. Leader, Peter Ledeboer 8-10 June Meet, Ingleborough. Leader, John Kemsley 13 June Members' Evening. Showing slides of Easter and Whit Meets 18 August- Alpine Meet, Saas Fee. Leader, John Whyte 2 September 26 September Lecture 'Climbing in Norway' by Fred Jenkins 5-7 October Meet, Langdale. Leader, Walt Unsworth 24 October Members' Evening. Showing of slides of the Alpine Meet 21 November Annual General Meeting followed by the Annual Dinner, Connaught Rooms. Fuller details of these events are notified in the bulletins. Lectures are held at the Alpine Club, 74 South Audley Street, London W. 1, at 7. 0 p.m. and are followed by an informal supper at the 'Waterloo Despatch', Adams Row W. 1, price £1. 50. Places at these suppers must be booked not later than the preceding Saturday with Prof. Ernst Sondheimer, 51 Cholmeley Cres­ cent, London N. 6 (Tel:01-340-6607). Information regarding the Meets is available from the Leaders. ARCTIC NORWAY Gordon Gadsby After two and a half days steady motoring from Kristiansand we unpacked our tent from a grossly overloaded Morris Traveller and set up camp in the silent grandeur of the Okstindan Mountains, twenty five miles south of the Polar Circle. We had arrived on 21 June. The Okstindan glacier covers an area of seventy six square kilometres and is capped by the highest peak in North Norway—Oksskolten 1915m, a horse shoe ridge which contains a hanging glacier. The easiest approach to the peak is from Kjennsvass Lodge which is reached by a very rough car journ­ ey of twenty two miles from Umbukta. We camped after seventeen miles, the road being impassable further on due to deep snow. Next day we walked to the lodge (which was still closed from last autumn) and scrambled up an unnamed peak on the way. We returned to a magnificent sunset over Lake Akersvatnet and sighted a golden eagle on a dead tree near the tent. The following morning we were awakened by a series of grunts outside the tent and I peered out to see we were almost surrounded by a large herd of reindeer including several small white ones that appeared to be only a few days old. In the ensuing rush to find the camera in the back of the tent, I must have made a lot of noise and I emerged just in time to see the last of the deer galloping madly into the nearby birch forest. These turned out to be the only wild ones we saw during the whole three weeks holiday, although we often heard their calls whilst in the arctic hills. We decided to cash in on this unexpected early call and to go for the nearest peak, a satellite of Oksskolten called Stolltind 1216 m. We traversed the perimeter of a lake and then ascended a long snow slope, followed by a broad but rocky ridge to the cairned summit. Just as we reached the cairn a wind sprang up, follow­ ed seconds later by driving rain and rumbles of thunder. I snatched a quick photograph, then we hurried back down the way we had come. Ten minutes later the mountains mocked our caution as the whole range was bathed in glorious sunshine, whilst a delicate rainbow appeared over Oksskolten’s hanging glacier! This was the last rain we were to see for nearly three weeks. Early Saturday morning we packed up camp, picked up Albert and Madge and in glorious weather motored north over the Polar Circle and into Arctic Norway. The famous arctic highway (E6) which we had followed all the way from Oslo was still a good metalled road with the luxury of a yellow line for most of the way. Soon we reached the first ferry terminal of the journey at a small place called Sommerset, the distance from Kristiansand was 1, 025 miles. The crossing was smooth and swift and in twenty minutes we landed at Bonnasjoen. The North Cape road from here on was rough, gravelled and potholed. Forty miles on we set up camp at a place called Tommerneset to 1 2 the east of the Arctic Highway. In the west we could see a fabulous group of peaks called Veggfjella. Looking south west the snow-capped peaks of Stordalstindan were bathed in a delicate alpenglow. Hours later at midnight the sky was even more glorious as the sun, now hidden behind the mountains, sent the heavens a deep blood red. After a leisurely morning spent around the camp site we packed our ruc- sacs and set off for the Veggfjella massif. The first problem was to climb a steep escarpment guarding the plateau from which the mountain group rises. The only weakness in this craggy rampart seemed to be at the low­ est point where the river Lielva plunged over the 800 ft. drop in a series of three spectacular waterfalls. We climbed this with some difficulty about 50 ft. right of the waterfall, the terrain being very similar to parts of Tre- madoc but without the larger crags. After a two hour battle with dead trees, lush vegetation, brambles, smooth slabs, mosquitos and cleggs, we thankfully reached the lip of the plateau and the welcome shade of some large boulders. The sun was scorching down from a clear blue sky. Away in the distance we could hear cuckoos rivalling each other in song, near at hand the sound of grasshoppers and the constant drone of flies and bees filled the air. Was this the Land I'd read about in Tom Wier's "Camps and Climbs in Arctic Norway" when every climb they did seemed to include water squelching in boots and cold cloudy days with little sunshine! After dabbing our arms and necks with evil smelling mosquito repellant (on sale in every small shop in the arctic), we set off across the four miles of scrub and birch forest that separated us from the Veggfjella peaks. This was the life! no tourists, sign posts, cairns or tracks; nothing to indicate that man had passed this way at all. We now reached the edge of a ravine separating us from the mountain pro­ per. The most obvious route was almost directly in front of us, a huge curv­ ing whaleback of a ridge which narrowed considerably near the very sharp looking summit. Climbers visiting this area would I'm sure have chosen this as the finest route to the top. Anxious to break new ground if possible I decided we would try and scale the face between this ridge and the easier looking north east ridge. This I hoped would bring us out via the upper snowfield to a notch on the south ridge just below our intended unnamed summit, Point 1051m. It was 5.00 p.m.as we emerged out of the far side of the ravine and set off up the first rocks of the South East face. By careful route finding we reduced the ascent to a mere scramble only putting on the rope for the last two hundred feet to the summit. This was reached in three hours from the ravine and made a fitting climax to one of my best days spent in the mountains.