Basel Fasnacht, Switzerland A carnival never taken lightly Fasnacht is the carnivals in Switzerland, southern Germany and western Austria. It is a time for people to go ‘mad’ and for chaos to rule. Where hierarchies are overthrown and everyone indulges in three days of revelry. While Fasnacht celebrations coincide with the pre-lent, pre- fasting period in the Catholic areas, in Protestant Basel they take place one week later. And nowhere is Fasnacht embraced more wholeheartedly than in this historic city. As one Fasnacht finishes so the 12,000 participants, or Fasnächtler, start planning, preparing and rehearsals for the next. This results in a truly memorable three days for those lucky enough to be there to enjoy it. Ashley Gibbins The International Travel Writers Alliance [email protected] Basel Fasnächt, the biggest carnival in Switzerland, takes place annually from precisely 4.00am on the Monday after Ash Wednesday until 4.00am the following Thursday morning. A personal view The facts Basel Einstein's to the left of me, Basel, Switzerland, is located on the Neanderthals to the right Rhine at the border with Germany and France.It is the country's third by Ashley Gibbins largest city, after Zurich and Geneva. Basel Fasnacht When writing a feature a word will sometimes spring to mind that's just Basel Fasnächt, the biggest carnival perfect for explaining a situation. in Switzerland, takes place annually from precisely 4.00am on the Cacophonic. Now that's an absolute gem of a word, I think you will agree. Monday after Ash Wednesday until It also describes Basel Fasnächt to a 'T'. 4.00am the following Thursday morning. A stirring, strident, jarring and discordant sound. Raucous and with harshness. During the 72 hours of carnival the city's historic old town is taken over And it was indeed a cacophony of sound that assailed my senses when a by the Fasnächtler, the 12,000 Gugge band of 25 Einstein's (performing a rumbustious rendition of participants who dress in outrageous Spanish Eyes) came face to face with, rather ironically, a clique of costumes and masks. Neanderthal's playing a military lament of sorts on piccolo and drums. The Sujet While these two groups, were faced with the dilemma of how best to pass each other, they were confronted broadside by the Smurfs from the left (blasting out When I'm 64) and a trio of rampant drummers, dressed as Most of the groups choose a Sujet, grotesque clowns, from the right. or theme, for the Fasnächt, based on local, national or world events A cacophonic episode ensued. presented in satirical fashion. A Sujet will also be depicted on the Here comes another word. Surreal large lanterns that are carried by the members of the Cliques. The four groups continued to perform unabated and unperturbed at the chaotic congestion. Soon enough we spectators were gently manoeuvred The costumes aside to enable the groups to go their separate ways. The participants will often theme their Encounters like this would be repeated, time and again, by dozens of costumes to satirise famous different groups throughout the three days and nights of carnival. politicians or celebrities, put a focus on current affairs or to represent They will all be dressed in costumes and masks that are, by turn, dramatic, comic characters or animals. exotic, outrageous or just plain ludicrous. Others will stick with the more And during Fasnacht, the historic old town becomes the domain of the traditional masks depicting 18,000 Fasnächtler who, in their Cliques and Gugge bands, will march and Napoleonic soldiers or Stänzler. perform pretty much as, when and where the mood takes them. Others wear the costumes of the 2 Stänzler, which are inspired by the The Cortège military uniforms worn by the Basel regiment in the 19th century. Then ther’s the Harlekin (reminiscent of the Commedia dell’Arte). As well as enhancing the dramatic effect, the masks also ensure the anonimity of the participants, an important element of Basel Fasnacht. The groups Basel Fasnacht's distinct groups are the Cliques, the Gugge and the Waggis. The Cliques Even the Cortège, the carnival parades, that take place on the Monday and Wednesday have the participants joining the circular procession route at their time and place of choosing. If all this sounds complete mayhem and you are thinking someone ought to be getting things under control. Well, emphatically no. This is a festival that belongs to the Fasnächtler and they rightly resist all but the minimum of organisation and regulation. It works just fine The Cliques are groups who march up down and across the streets of the old town playing the piccolo flute and basler drum. The pipers (Pfeifer) and drummers (Trommler) are led on these processions by a vanguard of marchers (Vortrab) who will gently move spectators out of the way. Because they do not follow set routes, different Cliques will regularly cross each others path. When they do one will stop and let the other pass. And it all works just fine as it is. The Gugge One must remember, of course, that we are talking Switzerland so the The Gugge, are the brass bands who mayhem is going to be relatively reserved and extremely well behaved. play Guggenmusik throughout Fasnacht either on the march or from So despite thousands of performers and many thousands more spectators impromptu venues throughout the old cramming into the old town. town. There is no need for the crowd control or the heavy police presence that The Waggis puts an unfortunate edge on some carnivals in other parts of the world. Finally there are the Waggis, the And while many of the bars and restaurants stay open day and night infamous and impish creatures who throughout, there is no hint of drunkenness or unsocial behaviour. spend Fasnächt throwing confetti at over or down the backs of spectators as they stroll the old town or from the floats taking part in the Cortège. The programme 3 Masks more than for dramatic effect The other essential element of Basel Fasnacht is the masks worn by all the participants. As well as adding colourful and dramatic effect it provides an anonymity that allows people of all age and social standing to take part. All Fasnächtler are equal. The final abiding memory of Fasnacht in Basel is the confetti – hundreds of tons of the stuff. It is hurled by those aboard the carnival floats, along with Morgestraich flowers, sweets and oranges, and thrown over bystanders by the mischievous Waggis. The Morgestraich, on Monday morning, marks the start of Fasnacht. At exactly 4am all lights in the old town go out to herald a parade of over 200 lanterns by the Cliques to the sound of pipes and drums. The other essential element of Basel Fasnacht is the masks worn by all the The Cortège participants. The Cortege are the parades, which As well as adding colourful and dramatic effect it provides an anonymity take place on Monday and that allows all ages and social standing to take part. All Fasnächtler are Wednesday afternoon, around two equal. defined circuits of the city. The final abiding memory of Fasnacht in Basel is the confetti – hundreds of During these two processions, the tons of the stuff. It is hurled by those aboard the carnival floats, along with Cliques and Gugge are joined by flowers, sweets and oranges, and thrown over bystanders by the Waggis. dozens of floats carrying Waggis who toss oranges, flowers and sweets to the crowd and shower them with confetti. Children and Family Fasnacht 4 All in a good cause The Children and Family Fasnacht takes place on Tuesday with many And woe betide those who have not purchased an official carnival badge, parades through the city. that helps fund the carnival festivities, and who are not on constant watch. The lantern exhibition (Or, it seems, any attractive young ladies). It's confetti down the back of the shirt time. A spectacular exhibition of over 200 lanterns is staged on the By the end of each day the confetti has formed a thick carpet everywhere Münsterplatz on Carnival Tuesday. and it is a real feat for this to be removed, as it is, by early the next morning. Gugge concerts The Gugge come into their own on Parades and performances Tuesday evening, with dozens of outdoor concerts throughout the city. The end of Fasnächt Basel Fasnacht ends at precisely 4.00am on Thursday morning when the sound of pipes, drums and brass that has been resounding through the old town for the previous 72 hours stops abruptly. Links Basel Fasnacht www.fasnachts-comite.ch www.fasnacht.ch Basel www.basel.com And so from precisely 4.00 am on the Monday to exactly 4.00 am the The Basel tourist information web following Thursday, Basel is dominated by the parades and performances site and its two information centres in of the Fasnächtler. Basel will provide information on staying in and making the most of a While all of this is taking place there is still plenty of opportunity to stroll the visit to the city. wonderful old town or along the majestic Rhine. A place to stay Basel Fasnacht will be held : For one fine mid-range hotel within Monday 22 to Thursday 25 Feb 2010 easy walking distance of the old town Monday 14 to Thursday 17 Mar 2011 centre and the Fasnacht activities Monday 27 Feb to Thursday 1 Mar 2012 check out the Hotel Metropol. www.metropol-basel.ch The International Travel Writers Alliance Ashley Gibbins AllWays is the consumer travel service from Ashley Gibbins is a third generation the International Travel Writers Alliance.