TRAVEL eat * stay * play ROGUE VALLEY WINES OF THE Rogue Valley written by BY ERIC DEGERMAN and ANDY PERDUE, Great Northwest Wine Red Lily Vineyards 2 Hawk Vineyard and Winery THE DRIVE ALONG INTERSTATE 5 FROM in the Applegate Valley town of Jacksonville and Noir grown on their Jacksonville estate and PORTLAND TO ASHLAND DOESN’T OFFER operated it as Valley View Winery for more than throughout the state, but this blend of Barbera, the stark geologic and cultural differences that five decades. The Wisnovsky family revived the Sangiovese and Nebbiolo also shows artistry Valley View Winery Interstate 90 showcases in Washington state, but brand in the 1970s and continues to operate it. and imagination. And it’s a tip of the hat to Dan’s Winemaker John the styles, diversity and quality of wine created forefathers who farmed vineyards in Italy. The Guerrero samples a Today, there are more than 150 vineyards in the in Southern Oregon are reminiscent of a trip intense nose of black cherry, pomegranate, dark barrel. Valley View was Rogue Valley, which also is generating awards through Eastern Washington. And while wines chocolate and brown sugar turns into a bold originally established with the robust Spanish grape Tempranillo, from the Rogue Valley American Viticultural drink of Montmorency cherry and fresh cran- in the 1850s by Oregon Rhône Valley varieties such as Grenache and pioneer Peter Britt in Area remain in the global shadow of Oregon’s berry with chocolatey tannins and a great fin- Viognier, and the ever-popular Chardonnay and the Applegate Valley Willamette Valley, there’s substantial history ish. Enjoy with the Italian-themed pizzas at their Pinot Gris. near the historic town of and acclaimed winemaking taking place in and on-premise café. (170 cases, 13.5% alc.) Jacksonville. The Wis- around Ashland, the state’s southernmost city. The wine industry now drives tourism through novsky family restored the Rogue Valley. Winemakers with impressive L. Donovan Wines, 2013 Reserve Chardonnay Visitors from Portland and Seattle will still find the winery in the early international résumés moved in to make wine Rogue Valley, $25 1970s and continues to plenty of delicious Pinot Noir grown, made and for themselves and clients. Multi-generation operate it today. bottled by Rogue Valley wineries. In fact, the Linda Donovan trained at Napa Valley icons farmers such as the Naumes family have entered prized red grape of Burgundy is the region’s No. Beaulieu, Robert Mondavi and Schramsberg the wine scene. Pioneering growers Don and Tra- 1 wine. Fruity and luscious Pinot Noir grapes before arriving in the Rogue Valley in 2000. ute Moore of Quail Run now operate their own from Southern Oregon routinely make their way She makes wines for a variety of clients at her brand: South Stage Cellars in downtown Jack- into many of the state’s largest bottlings, par- Pallet Wine Co., in Medford, but she carves out sonville. Their wines are crafted by Napa-trained ticularly in cool vintages. About a third of the some time and space for her eponymous brand. Linda Donovan as well as Joe Dobbes, who put Rogue Valley’s 3,200 acres of vines are devoted to This bottling from Hoyal Vineyard is what you Quail Run on the map while he was at Willamette Pinot Noir. might expect of a California-style Chardonnay, Valley Vineyards. showing signs of 30 percent new French oak with One of the biggest early supporters of Rogue Val- 100 percent malolactic fermentation in barrel. ley fruit was Willamette Valley Vineyards near Here is a selection of wines from Rogue Valley Big aromas of toasted coconut, butter and apple Salem. The Pinot Noir producer created its Grif- producers that were recently evaluated under lead to pleasing butterscotch richness on the fin Creek brand 30 years ago so it could offer cus- blind conditions: palate. There’s more of the toasted coconut with tomers bigger reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, notes of fresh mango, dried pineapple and spici- Merlot and Syrah — grapes that do not perform ness on the finish. Suggested pairings include as well in the cooler Willamette Valley but shine DANCIN Vineyards, 2013 Tribute Red Wine grilled salmon, sautéed mushrooms or pork, and at Quail Run Vineyards. Southern Oregon, $35 WINE ENTHUSIAST RECENTLY NAMED ASHLAND AS NO. 10 ON ITS BEST WINE these wines are sold at her quaint tasting room TRAVEL DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD FOR 2016, WHICH IS GREAT NEWS FOR There’s more remarkable history nearby. In the Dan and Cindy Marca reap awards for their within Valley View Orchard in Ashland. (200 cas- ALL OF SOUTHERN OREGON AND THE REST OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST 1850s, Peter Britt launched Oregon’s first winery work with small lots of Chardonnay and Pinot es, 13% alc.) PortraitMagazine.com 115 PDX34 Southern Oregon Wine Final_sec11_160502.indd 114 5/2/16 9:24 AM PDX34 Southern Oregon Wine Final_sec11_160501.indd 115 5/1/16 12:21 PM fish tacos. Look for his wines at Fred Meyer, New source this Pinot Noir from the Yamhill-Carlton Folin Cellars, 2013 Estate Grenache transition into a full-time winemaker and grower Plaisance Ranch, 2013 Mondeusé OREGON WINE EXPERIENCE Seasons and Zupan markets around Portland. AVA. Affable aromas of raspberry, black cher- Rogue Valley, $34 near the Rogue River in White City with his wife, Applegate Valley, $30 Jacksonville, Oregon – August. 22-28 Krisell. Their Sauvignon Blanc is a serious one (983 cases, 12.5% alc.) ry and blueberry are framed by lightly toasted This red, ripe and juicy Rhône grape is enjoying Are you in one of those “century clubs” where Don’t miss the Oregon Wine Experience in Jacksonville that’s snappy and grassy with a racy theme of wood and rich spices. The pour brings a rush a renaissance in the Northwest, and Rob Folin membership comes after having tasted 100 wine Red Lily Vineyards, 2013 Night School Aug. 22-28. It’s a weeklong celebration of Oregon wines gooseberry, Granny Smith apple, quince and kum- of blueberry and Bing cherry flavors, backed by has planted an acre of it on his Gold Hill proper- grape varieties? Here’s a fun entry. Joe Ginet’s Southern Oregon, $32 filled with competitions, classes, barrel auctions and private quat. Its bone-dry finish makes this a great oyster chocolate-covered pomegranate. Its length and ty north of Medford. He allows for a fanciful nose farming and ranching heritage starts in the France Rachael Martin shines with grapes native intensity will marry nicely with duck confit or vintner dinners. The festival is held at the historic Bigham wine. (556 cases, 13.9% alc.) Knoll Campus and area wineries and restaurants. of raspberry, cherry and cranberry with clove and region of Savoie — home to Mondeusé Noire — so to the Iberian Peninsula, especially with her prime rib. (70 cases, 13.8% alc.) spearmint. On the palate, expect a delicious and Pebblestone Cellars, 2014 Ellis Vineyard Viognier he arranged for cuttings in a relative’s vineyard to award-winning Tempranillo bottlings from The fun kicks off Wednesday, Aug. 24 with an award cer- elegant approach of more raspberry and Rainier Rogue Valley, $20 go through quarantine at Missouri State Univer- her Jacksonville estate. Understandably, she Weisinger Family Winery, 2012 Malbec emony for the Best of Show medals in the Oregon Wine cherry. There’s no need for a corkscrew to get at sity. He now grows these grapes, a product of the Rogue Valley, $28 Competition. All entries must be commercially available A decade ago, Richard and Pat Ellis chose South- focuses her fortified red dessert wine program this because the 1,500-case winery uses the stylish nursery operation and vineyard near his organi- and produced from 100% grapes grown in Oregon AVAs. ern Oregon over the Bay Area, purchasing this de- on traditional Port varieties Tinta Cão (60%), Second-generation vigneron Eric Weisinger and effective glass Vino-Seal cork. Folin, who also cally farmed ranch. The wine offers sweet aromas Food is paired with each winning tasting. cade-old Ashland vineyard in 2003. The first vines Touriga Naçional (31%) and Tinta Roriz (aka made wine throughout the New World before operates a seasonal tasting room in the Willamette of blueberry and black currant with vanilla bean, they added were two acres of Geneva and clone Tempranillo). The proprietary name hints at the returning home and taking the reins on the win- Take workshops such as “Southern Oregon v. The Old Valley town of Carlton, enjoys pairing his Gren- black pepper and clove. On the pour, there’s a bold World” taught by local oenophile, Dr. Peter Adesman, or 01 Viognier at this 1,600-foot-elevation site, and night-time winemaking often required to find ery his father founded in Ashland in 1979. He ache with grilled ratatouille. (200 cases, 14.5% alc.) entry of blue fruit with raspberry acidity that leads “Riedel Class” to learn how glass shape affects flavor. those blocks have helped put Pebblestone Cellars the exact time to add the fermentation-finish- relies on Gold Vineyard for this red Bordeaux to a fascinating finish of sandy tannins and milk ing brandy, and she hit the sweet spot with the variety, and it produces remarkable aromas of Reserve a seat at an Ultimate Vintner Dinner, where vintners Harry and David Vineyards, 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir on the map. Bryan Wilson crafts the wines for the chocolate. (100 cases, 14.1% alc.) profile of dark cherry, dried plum, huckleberry, cracked black pepper, dusty blueberry, Bing open their homes, vineyards and cellars for special tastings. Rogue Valley, $30 family, and he uses oak on this floral white Rhône grape, which allows for a full expression of orange golden raisin and baking spice.