Culinary Aspects of Ancient Rome Culinary Aspects of Ancient Rome: Ars Cibaria By Almudena Villegas Becerril Culinary Aspects of Ancient Rome: Ars Cibaria By Almudena Villegas Becerril This book first published 2021 Cambridge Scholars Publishing Lady Stephenson Library, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE6 2PA, UK British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Copyright © 2021 by Almudena Villegas Becerril All rights for this book reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. ISBN (10): 1-5275-6152-6 ISBN (13): 978-1-5275-6152-6 To Miguel Fundamentum vita CONTENTS LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................... ix ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ..................................................................... xiii INTRODUCTION ................................................................................ xiv CHAPTER ONE .................................................................................... 1 SUPPLIES FROM THE GARDEN TO THE LARDER 1.1. Production sites and transportation ............................................. 1 1.1.1. Production sites ........................................................................ 1 1.1.2. Food transportation ................................................................... 5 Navigation and long-distance caravans .......................................... 5 Transports of short and medium-range ........................................... 9 1.1.3. Supplies in Rome .................................................................... 17 1.2. From markets to houses .............................................................. 27 1.2.1. Markets ................................................................................... 27 1.2.2. Other supply centres ............................................................... 41 CHAPTER TWO ................................................................................. 58 PRESERVED FOOD 2.1. The importance of preserves in the diet of the ancient world .... 58 2.2. Types of preserves ........................................................................ 63 2.2.1. Types of preserves according to domestic and industrial production ......................................................................................... 64 2.2.2. Types of preserves according to the elaboration..................... 73 2.3. Preparation of preserves ............................................................. 74 2.3.1. Conservation by storage ......................................................... 75 2.3.2. Preservation by chemical action ............................................. 92 2.3.3. Preservation by fermentation ................................................ 103 2.3.4. Preservation methods by physical treatments ....................... 127 2.3.5. Other types of preserves ....................................................... 132 2.4. Consumption times of the various preserves and health problems ............................................................................................ 138 viii Contents CHAPTER THREE ............................................................................. 140 COOKERY Introduction ...................................................................................... 140 3.1. Cookware .................................................................................... 141 Epitome of cooking instruments ..................................................... 177 3.2. Cooking methods ....................................................................... 178 3.2.1. Cleaning and food preparation ............................................. 179 3.2.2. Cooking techniques .............................................................. 190 3.2.3. Accompaniments and sauces ................................................ 223 CHAPTER FOUR .............................................................................. 229 PRESENTATION AND PREPARATIONS Introduction ...................................................................................... 229 4.1. Immediate consumption, deferred consumption .................... 229 4.1.1. Organisation and prevision: The craftsmanship of cooks ..... 230 4.1.2. Real and fictional cooks ....................................................... 231 4.2. The tables ................................................................................... 238 4.2.1. Cultural stages ...................................................................... 239 4.2.2. The dining room. Summer and winter triclinia .................... 242 4.2.3. Table service-related slaves .................................................. 244 Satyricon’s specific table service duties ...................................... 247 4.3. Tableware ................................................................................... 248 4.3.1. Crockery ............................................................................... 250 4.3.2. Drinking vessels ................................................................... 252 4.3.3. Table linen ............................................................................ 256 4.3.4. Other furnishings .................................................................. 257 4.4. Mealtimes and eats .................................................................... 258 4.4.1. Breakfast ............................................................................... 258 4.4.2. Snacks ................................................................................... 260 4.4.3. Appetisers ............................................................................. 260 4.4.4. Dinners ................................................................................. 262 CONCLUSION .................................................................................. 267 ENDNOTES ..................................................................................... 271 BIBLIOGRAPHY ............................................................................... 320 LIST OF SOURCES ........................................................................... 356 INDEX ............................................................................................ 361 LIST OF FIGURES Fig. 1-1. The Food System. .................................................................................. xix Fig. 1-2. Tabula cerata. Sulpicii Archives. Murecine, Pompeii. ............................. 6 Fig. 1-3. Bas-relief, end cent. II BC. Funerary urn journey in carpetum. Volterra, Louvre Museum. ............................................................................................ 11 Fig. 1-4. Terracotta, 350 BC. Figure carrying mortar and food –onions, figs, cheese. Corinth, British Museum. .................................................................. 12 Fig. 1-5. Terracotta, 350 BC. Figure section carrying mortar and food –onions, figs, cheese. Corinth, British Museum. .......................................................... 13 Fig. 1-6. Relief, cent. III AD. Representing the transport of wine in trolleys. Townley Collection, British Museum. ........................................................... 14 Fig. 1-7. Stamp delivered in exchange for a wheat ration, likely issued to pay for the distribution of grain. British Museum. ..................................................... 23 Fig. 1-8. Silver coin of Piso and Caepio, 100 BC. The inscription: AD FRV(MENTVM) EMV(NDVM) EX S(ENATVS) C(ONSVLTO). British Museum. ........................................................................................................ 23 Fig. 1-9. Pompeii Market reconstructed in cent. I AD. Regio VII 9, Pompeii. ...... 30 Fig. 1-10. Pompeii Market reconstructed in cent. I AD. Regio VII 9, Pompeii. .... 30 Fig. 1-11. Fish pond. Villa Ariadna. Stabia, Italy. ................................................. 33 Fig. 1-12. Mensa ponderaria or a measuring table. A site at the Pompeian macellum, Pompeii. ....................................................................................... 35 Fig. 1-13. Libra weighting scale, cent. I AD. Hamilton Collection, British Museum. ........................................................................................................ 36 Fig. 1-14. Scale with weights, known as Roman, cent. I AD. British Museum. .... 36 Fig. 1-15. Counters for the sale of food products. Popina of Vetutius Placidus, Pompeii. ......................................................................................................... 42 Fig. 1-16. Counters for the sale of food products. Pompeii thermopolium at Via dell'Abbondanza, Pompeii. ............................................................................ 42 Fig. 1-17. Counters for the sale of food products. Popina of Vetutius Placidus, Pompeii. ......................................................................................................... 43 Fig. 1-18. Reconstruction of a Roman kitchen at Mas des Tourelles wine museum. Beaucaire, France. ......................................................................................... 51 Fig. 1-19. Reconstruction of a Roman kitchen at Mas des Tourelles wine museum. Beaucaire, France. ......................................................................................... 51 Fig. 1-20. The