Leica Manual

Leica Manual

LEICA MANUAL ERIC KIM IF I HAD A LEICA, ALL OF MY LIFE’S PROBLEMS WOULD BE SOLVED When I first started street photography, I used a less obtrusive, and the camera shutter was more bulky DSLR (Canon 5D). I always thought that silent. It didn’t. buying a Leica, I would become a much better I thought that buying the Leica would help me street photographer. I fantasized about the look make better images, because it was quicker and of the camera, the lightness and compactness of more discrete. It didn’t. the camera, and the ease of use. I imagined my- self shooting with a Leica on the romantic streets I thought that buying the Leica would make me of Paris, in the foots of Henri Cartier-Bresson. satisfied for the rest of my life, because it was the “best” gear that money could buy. It didn’t. One of my dreams in life was to own a Leica. And when I finally got one (a Leica M9) — I Soon after buying the Leica M9, I got the film thought I would be happy for the rest of my life. bug. My good friend Todd gave me his film Leica M6. I fell in love. I never touched the M9 after Wrong. that. After about a month of owning it, the appeal and I eventually ended up selling the M9, and trading novelty wore off— and it started to collect (as it for a film Leica MP. much dust) as my Canon 5D did on the shelf. I thought that buying the Leica would make me a more confident photographer, because it was i But nowadays most of my photography is shoot- Whenever I miss a shot on a Leica or range- ing with a small compact camera for street pho- finder, I never blame my camera — I can only tography (Ricoh GR II). I prefer the smaller size blame myself. — it is easier to carry with me everywhere I go, it is cheaper (so less anxiety about losing it), and even less obtrusive. I still think the Leica is a fantastic camera for street photography, and don’t discourage any- one from investing in one. My suggestion is to just be realistic with yourself. Buying a Leica won’t change your life. It won’t make you a better photographer, nor a more con- fident photographer. But shooting with a Leica is certainly a different experience than using a DSLR or a traditional camera. A Leica (or rangefinder) has fewer functions, Sketch of my Leica MP by Phillip Kim fewer menus to deal with, and therefore is more minimalist and less complicated (in that sense). With a Leica (or rangefinder) — the operation is very simple. All you have to do is change the fo- cusing distance, the aperture, shutter-speed, and ISO. And all of these settings are easily ac- cessible, without having to dig through menus. Also a Leica is far smaller and more compact than bulky DSLR’s (although not necessarily lighter). If you want the ultimate speed and responsive- ness in a camera, honestly you can’t beat a Leica or rangefinder. Why? Because if you em- ploy “zone focusing” (pre-focusing to a certain distance, and using a small aperture like f/8-f-16) you will never miss the “decisive moment.” ii 1 3 COMMON LEICA MISTAKES Everything I will share in this manual is based on my personal experiences. This is the information I wish I knew if I started shooting with a Leica or rangefinder all over again. To start off, common mistakes that I made, or things to avoid. 1. DON’T SHOOT WIDE-OPEN If you see on the internet, almost everyone talks about how amazing it is to shoot wide-open on a Leica (with Leica lenses). They lust after f/1.4 lenses, and even the legendary f/.95 “Noctilux” lens. But that isn’t what the Leica or rangefinders were designed to do. 3 In the early days of photography, the “fastest” f/8-f/16). Therefore whenever they clicked and hit lenses were limited to f/3.5. The concept of shoot- the shutter (with their 28mm or 35mm lenses), ing “wide-open” at f/1.4, f/1.8, or f/2 was unheard they would capture “the decisive moment” in im- of. ages that were both sharp and in-focus. Rather, what most photographers did with the The downside of shooting wide-open (at least in Leica (most of them being street, documentary, street photography) is your likelihood of getting or photojournalists) was to shoot at f/8-16. This an in-focus image is very slim. There are some allowed them to have more depth-of-field, so that people who can do it— but why risk it? they were more likely to have an in-focus image. Furthermore, I think a truly great street photo- Furthermore, early practitioners in street photog- graph needs both an interesting subject and raphy (like Garry Winogrand and Joel Meyerow- background. By shooting wide-open (at f/1.4-2) itz) would shoot black and white film (pushing means your background gets totally blurred out. the ASA/ISO to 1000+). This would allow them to And then you lose context, interest, or depth in max-out their shutter-speeds on their film Leicas your street photograph. (to 1/1000th of a second, while shooting between 4 If you look at the best street photographs in his- f/16 works well on really bright days, but if you’re tory, almost all of them have a relatively deep shooting in the shade, I recommend sticking at f/ depth-of-field. You can see the foreground, mid- 8. dle ground, and background. 2. DON’T SHOOT WITH A Shooting wide-open (f/1.4-2) is necessary if you’re shooting at night, in dark situations, with- 50MM LENS out a flash. Or it might be good if you’re trying to make some nice portraits of models, or of a This point might be a bit more controversial: fancy wine glass. many people who first get a Leica buy a 50mm lens because that is the lens that Henri Cartier- But if your interest is in shooting street photogra- Bresson shot with. phy, keep your aperture to a default of f/8. The good thing about f/8 is that it allows enough light I don’t want to poo-poo the 50mm lens too much. to enter your camera, and gives you a good bal- It is good for flattening your perspective, it is ance of depth-of-field. nice for portraits, and easier to frame and com- pose with. 5 However I think in today’s modern world, where that having a 35mm affords you a little more flexi- the streets are much more crowded, a 50mm is bility. just too tight. There isn’t enough space in most If your back is against the wall, you cannot take cities to shoot with a 50mm lens. a step backwards. But you can always take a I recommend a 35mm lens for most street pho- step forward. tographers starting off shooting with a Leica or If you become more advanced in street photogra- rangefinder. phy, a 28mm is also a good lens. Yet the problem Why? with a 28mm lens for street photography is that you need to get really close. And most beginners A 35mm lens is the best “good enough” lens on aren’t that comfortable shooting that close. Fur- the streets. It isn’t too wide (like a 28mm lens) thermore, if you wear glasses (like I do) you can- nor is it too close (like a 50mm lens). Apparently I not fully see the edges of the frame lines on a also read that the human eye sees the world 28mm lens (assuming your Leica has the default from roughly a 38-40mm perspective. And I feel magnification of .72). 6 A random tip, if you want to shoot with a 28mm A good cheap rangefinders to start off with is a lens (and you have glasses) try to get a Leica Yaschica Electro 35. with a .58 magnification (allows you to see more The best “bang for the buck” film Leica to start of the frame lines). Unfortunately Leicas with a off with is a Leica M6 (which has a meter-built in). .58 magnification are only film ones— not digital Cheaper film Leica’s you can start off with in- ones. clude the Leica M4 (built like the M6, but doesn’t 3. DON’T JUMP HEAD-FIRST have a meter) and Leica M5 (body styling is dif- ferent, but still a good camera). INTO A DIGITAL LEICA If you don’t want to bother with film, want a Leica, and might be more on a budget— I’d recom- Digital Leicas are far more expensive than their mend a second-hand Leica M8 or Leica M9 (for more affordable film counter-parts. the rangefinder ‘experience’). Therefore if you are unsure whether shooting with The Leica M8 is great for shooting black and a Leica or rangefinder is right for you, I’d recom- whites (but horrible for color). The Leica M9 is mend starting off with a cheap film rangefinder, great for shooting both black and white and or a film Leica. color, but if you want nice colors you can’t shoot 7 above ISO 400 (black and white I shot with it all cameras really suck.

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