ADVERTISEMENT. It is coining dollars for others.... ^^^Why not for you? Our Rotary Cylinder ^'J^equtd^" Has a magical effect on Profits. It produces more fabri It runs 10 to 25 per c es the cards safely at any speed. It does away with t' It has but One Cylinde ditions of the loom. Our Double Crank and Two-Lever I our method of adjusting the harness is simple as A. Our Catalogue No. 12 v y we are getting stacks ol repeat orders from manufai J worth of this ingenious Jacquard machine. 5c Franklin Institute {j^kar^ er, Second and i •HIA, U. 5. A. Class Accessioi^.^.^...\..^ Jf. B.— To reach our wo ^ Beading K.B. to ADVERTISEMENT. Knowles Loom Works WORCESTER, MASS., U. S. A. FiuB Awards AT THE World's . Columbian Exposition. Makers of Power Looms of Every Description, Also Jacquards and Dobbies. The extraordinary demand for our Rise and Fall 3ingle-Leuer Jacquards is sufficient evidence that they are superior to all others. They can be operated at a Higher Rate of Speed than any other (Rotary not excepted). V: We manufacture Jacquards for every class of Weaving for which such machines can be used. The "Mford Dobby" is too well known to need more than mere reference, over 16,000 being in use. It is adapted for Lenos, Double Weaves, Towels, or any class of goods requiring fancy effects, not sufficiently elaborate to require Jacquards. SEND FOR CATALOGUES AND PRICES OF ALL OUR MACHINERY. THE "KNOWLES LOOM" FOR FOREIGN COUNTRIES i^Buiitby HITTCHINSON. HOLLINQWORTH & CO., DOBCROSS, ENGI-75ND. WE ALSO HAVE BRANCH WORKS LOCATED AT PROVIDENCE, R. I., U. S. A. (See also Outside Back Cover.) ADVERTISEMENT. Silk Yarns of every description. In Gray or absolutely FaSt ColOFS, WARRANTED TO STAND FULLING. In Skein or Chain Warps and on Spools, Cops, Cones and Shuttle Bobbins. S. Friedberger, 435 Bourse Building, Philadelphia. LONQ DISTANCE TELEPHONE CONNECTION. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. ESTABLISHED 1831.. CURTIS & MARBLE MACHINE COMPANY, MANUFACTURERS OF Wool Burring, Picking and Mixing Machinery. CLOTH Finishing Machinery, For Cotton, Woolen, Worsted, Plush Goods, Etc. SHEARING MACHINES A SPECIALTY. Office and Works, Webster Square, WORCESTER, MASS. WOOL PREPARING MACHINERY. or Dusters Shake Willows ; Feafnoughts or Tenter Hook Pickers ; Goddard Burr Pickers ; Steel Ring and Solid Packing Burring Machines, with Steel Ring Feed Rolls, for Woolen and Worsted Cards. FINISHING MACHINERY. Shearing Machines for all kinds of Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Goods, Plushes, Carpets, Rugs, etc and Down, Double Acting, Steam, and Mats, ; Up Gessner Gigs ; Gessner Rolling Teasel Gigs ; Endless Wire Nappers for Satinets, Blankets, Gigs ; Knit Fleecings, etc. Felt ; Single and Double Acting Brushing Machines ; Cotton Brushing Machines ; Gas Singeing Machines ; Steam Finishing Machines ; Stretching and Rolling Machines ; Patent Doubling and Tacking Machines ; Gessner Rotary Steam Cloth Press ; Reversible Flock Cutters ; Flock Renovators Rag Cutters ; Cloth ; Winders and Measurers ; Cloth Folding and Measuring Machines ; Shear Grinders Railway Sewing etc., etc. ; Machines, Machine Brushes of all kinds made and repaired. Particular attention paid to repairing and grinding Shear Blades and Burr Cylinders. SEND FOR OATALOQUE. iii . ADVERTISEMENT JAME3 BARKER, cotton and¥oolen machinery S. E. Cor. 2d and Somerset Ste., Philadelphia, Pa. Double Apron Condenser 1. Increases production 10-40%. 2. Improves quality. 3. Adaptable to fine or coarse numbers of yarn. 4. Equipped with perfect aprons, plain or "pocket." 5. Now working on every grade of stock carded. 6. Necessary to profitable yarn making. Fast Running Non-Oil- Leaking Doffing Comb For cotton, woolen and worsted cards. Can be run at highest speed. Working parts always in oil. Adjusted by single screw. Durable and cheap. New Automatic Spur-Gear Cutter Compact and sturdy construction. Driven by one belt. Speed limited only by strength of cutter. 4. Minimum amount of over-run. Cutter table returns at rate of 90 inches a minute. Perfect spacer, steady cutter. Entirely automatic. Moulders' Improved Flask 1. Prevents shifted or shotover castings. 2. Saves time and labor. 3. Increases production. 4. Perfect lift, less patching. 5. All parts renewable. 6. More work done by hinge lift. 7. Positive pin guide. 8. No fins—less work in cleaning shed. ADVERTISEMENT. Griswold Worsted Co. LIMITED. ^""^r/""-^^^Worsted Yarns Spun Silk Yarns SUITABLE FOR HOSIERY, UNDERWEAR, UPHOLSTERY FABRICS. WARPS FOR PLUSHES AND DRESS GOODS ON CONES OR SPOOLS CaSSimere ftilk V^rng Fast colors on spools. - - Office, 322 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa. JosiAH Gates & Sons Oak Tanned MANUFACTURERS OF Leather Belting Lace Leather, Worsted Apron Leather, Picker Leather, Loom Strapping and Worsted Aprons, Rubber 3^Iti'^S^ and ]*\ill S^PP^^^^* 307 Market St., Lowell, Mass. AnVRRTISEMENT. Fairmount Machine Co. Twenty=second and Wood Sts., PHILADELPHIA, PA. Textile Machinery: Patent Looms, of superior merit, entirely new, patent of 1895. Patent Harness Motions, best for the manufacturer, best for the weaver, can be j&tted to any loom. Patent Warp Tension Attachment, absolutely prevents "smashes" and makes even cloth, applicable to any loom. Patent Cop and Bobbin Winding Machines, save yarn and give perfect bobbins. Plain and Pressure Beaming Machines . Plain and Pressure Spoolers. Dyeing and Sizing Hachines. ** Bridesburg " Looms and flachinery. Power Transmitting flachinery: Self=oiling Bearings, cleanly, most economical. Patent Friction Pulleys, simple, eflBcient, can be depended upon. Vertical Shaft Transmission, the bearings will run cool. Patent fluley Driving, adjustable, self-oiling. Patent Belt Tighteners, capable of fine adjustment. special Forms of Driving, for difficult situations. Rope Transmission. vi ADVERTISEMENT. 00LENS/.>^^"^|1UALITY / WORSTEDS V/UANTITY ..PRODUCED ON THE... Qrompton High speed Close Shed ^001118 Witli " 189r> » Patent Harness Motion :— Giving absolute freedom from mispicks. With " 1 89.> " Positive Take-up The number of teeth in the ratchet indicat- ing the exact and corresponding number of picks. Wifli Patent Adjustable Driving Motion:— Allowing quick change of speed without removal of pulleys or belt. CROMPTON " 1895 " WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM. ^ROMPTON pANCY (j INGHAM LoOMS ALL OTHER MAKERS TAKE AS THEIR STANDARD. Are built vf ith a Positive Take-up Motion. Number of teeth in gear produces correspond- ing number of picks in cloth. WEAB and TEAR guaranteed at a minimum point. Our Patent Positive Compound Lever Sliding Tooth Box Motion, ^as no rival for maximum speed and accuracy. All Combinations of Shuttle Boxes. CROMPTON STANDARD QINQMAM LOOM 4 x 1 BOX. Crompton Loom Works, WORCESTER, MASS. Correspondence Solicited.. vii : : Fosselt's Textile Library, Volume I. TEXTILE CALCULATIONS Being a Guide to Calculations relating to The Construction of all kinds of Yarns and Fabrics, The Analysis of Cloth, Speed, Power and Belt Calculations. For the use of Students, Operatives, Overseers and Manufacturers, —BY— B. A. POSSKLT, Consulting Expert on Textile Designing and Manufacturing. Editor of *' The Textile Record.^'' Editor of Textile Terms in '"''Standard Dictionary '''' Iconographic Encyclopizdia of the Arts and Sciences?'* Author and Publisher of '"'' Technology of Textile Design''\' " The Jacquard Machine Analysed and Explained''''; '^ Structure of Fibres^ Yarns and Fabrics.^'' Principal ofPosseWs Private School of Textile Design ; formerly Head Master ofthe Textile Department of The Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art^ Philadelphia, WITH NUMEI^OUS ILLUSTRATIONS. PHILADELPHIA B. A. POSSELT, Author and Pubi^ishbr, 2152 N. Twenty-first Strejkt. LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON AND COMPANY, LIMITED, St. Ddnstan's Housb, Fktter IvAnb, Fi,«st Strskx. 1896. • [Copyrighted 1896, by B. A. Posselt] ADVERTISEW-ENT. M. A. FURBUSH & SON MACHINE CO. PHILADELPHIA MAKERS OF WOOLEN CARDING, SPINNING AND WEAVING MACHINERY ALSO WORSTED CARDING MACHINES, MURKLAND INGRAIN CARPET LOOM. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE WITH FULL PARTICULARS ON APPLICATION, viii THE GETTY CENTr., LIBRARY . LIST OF ADVERTISERS. Altemus, W. W. & Son , Philadelphia ... ix Leigh, Bvan Arthur Boston . xxxx American Drosophore Co. Boston ...... xxiii Lord, George W. Philadelphia xxiv Barker, James Philadelphia ... iv IVIalcolm Mills Co Frankford, Pa Beer Paul . Philadelphia . xxxi Mauger & Avery Boston . XXX • B^nazet Heddle Co. Darby, Pa xxiv McCloud, C Philadelphia xxiv Borchers & Co., Richard C. Philadelphia . xxxix Muhlhauser, F. Co Boston and Branson Machine Co. Phila. (506 St. John st.) Cleveland, O. Brophey, D Philadelphia . xxvii Nye & Tredick Phila. (606 Arch St.) Crehore, C. F. & Son . Boston xviii Parks & Woolson Mach. Co Springfield, Vt. ^ . Crompton Loom Works . Worcester .... vii Paterson and i Curtis & Marble Worcester .... iii Reed 'N. Harness Co. Paterson, J.', . XXlll Danforth Belting Co. Philadelphia . xxxviii Paton, James H Bost6i ' ... XXX Dolan, Thomas B Philadelphia . xxvii Pettee Machine Works . Newton Up'r Falls, Draper, George & Sons . Hopedale, Mass. xiii Mass. ....... xxxvii Phila Photo. Bngraving Co. Philadelphia .;. xxix Elliott & Hall Worcester, Mass. xviii Posselt, B. A (Publisher) . Philadelphia . XXV Entwistle, T. C Lowell, Mass. , . xvi , . XXX xxxiii-xxxvi pairmount Machine Co. , Philadelphia ... vi Posselt's Textile School Philadelphia . X xviii Firth, William Boston '. xvi Fleming & Chapin Philadelphia . xxiv Queen & Co Philadelphia . xviii Friedberger, S Philadelphia ... iii Wagnalls . Funk & Co. New York .... xxxi Rhoads,