Estonia, species list and trip report, 26th May to 2nd June 2019 WILDLIFE TRAVEL v Estonia 2019 1 Estonia, species list and trip report, 26th May to 2nd June 2019 # DATE LOCATIONS AND NOTES 1 26th May Flight to Tallinn, travel to western Estoni and Matsalu National Park, nr Puise 2 27th May Matsalu NP, Puise peninsula, Silma nature reserve, Haapsalu 3 28th May Pusie, Pogari-Sassi, Lagleranna matkarada, Udruma meadows, Keemu reserve, Kasari River 4 29th May Puise Nina, Rame junction, Laelatu meadow, Tuhu, Virtsu, Muhu Island- Koguva 5 30th May Loona- Saaremaa island, Viidumae, Kogula, Loode, Hotell Saaremaa, Sorve Peninsula 6 31st May Loona, Kaali Krater, Laidevahe Nature Reserve, Puhtu-Laelatu, Pärnu Nature Reserve 7 1st June Klaara Manni, Sooma Rahuspark 8 2nd June Paljasaare Peninsula Tallinn LIST OF TRAVELLERS Leader and Guide Charlie Rugeroni Wildlife Travel Peeter Vissak NatourEst, Estonia Photos all by Charlie Rugeroni, unless marked PV (Peeter Vissak) and JR (Judith Robinson) Cover: Lady’s Slipper Orchid. Above: Laelatu 2 Estonia, species list and trip report, 26th May to 2nd June 2019 Day 1 Sunday 26th May Outbound to Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport; transfer to Puise Nina Guesthouse We were welcomed to Estonia by Peeter and once our bags were in the minibus we set off west to Puise peninsula and our first night’s guesthouse. The trip, on a Sunday afternoon, was straightforward and quiet. In the late-afternoon-early-evening northern light we were able to catch glimpses of Estonia’s Siberian-like natural forests, its peat bogs, coastal meadows, reed beds and fascinating coastline with innumerable inlets, glacial erratics and its flatness. Some birds were noted on the journey and, before gathering for dinner, we made the most of the dining room’s wonderful views looking out to the Vainameri Sea - a strait between the Western Estonian Archipelago and the Estonian mainland. Birds seen included: Common Scoter, White-tailed Eagle, Grey Plover, Arctic Tern and Black-tailed Godwit. After a wonderful supper of chicken schnitzel with a cream sauce and a variety of steamed vegetables, local bread and a desert of strawberry mousse with a hint of mint we were ready for bed and eager for tomorrow. Day 2 Monday 27th May Matsalu NP, Puise peninsula, Silma nature reserve, Haapsalu Lighter winds than yesterday; overcast. We were staying within the Matsalu NP, the oldest in Estonia, containing some of the largest reed beds on the Baltic coast, and the Kasari River delta. Early morning birding produced Goosander, Avocet, Serin, Whitethroat, Common and Arctic Terns. Later we would see Black and Caspian Terns. We walked to our first site and among the first plants we spotted was the non- aromatic Artemisia campestris (Field Wormwood). Further up the road we dipped into a coastal meadow where Raven, Yellowhammer and Common Rosefinch called; the latter showing in striking scarlet. Here we also came across the first of the Primula farinosa (Bird’s-eye Primrose) intermixing beautifully with the striking yellow flowered Scorzonera humilis (Viper’s Grass), Polygala amarella (Dwarf Milkwort) and Filipendula vulgaris (Dropwort). Pinguicola vulgaris (Common Butterwort), Orchis militaris (Military Orchid), the lime-loving Sesleria caerula (Blue Moor Grass), Silene nutans (Nottingham Catchfly), Astragalus danicus (Purple Milk-vetch), Plantago media (Hoary Plantain) with its beautiful whitish flowers and a fuzz of pinkish-lilac stamens were also enjoyed here. What looked an insignificant patch of coastal meadow produced an amazing variety of plants and a good few birds like Thrush Nightingale, Hobby, Blue-headed Wagtail, Hooded Crow, Meadow Pipit and on the coastal meadows and shore Redshank, Avocet chicks, Oystercatcher and Greylag Geese grazing with sheep. Little and Common Terns flitted about. Before we moved on we noted Antennaria dioica (Mountain Everlasting) Thymus serpyllum (Breckland Thyme), a couple of Cinquefoils: Hoary and Spring (P. argentea and neumanniana respectively), David R picked out a Small Heath butterfly and Rose called out ‘Cranes!’ – a pair came in close above the Alnus incana (Alder) and Betula pendula (Birch). At a quick stop, two more cranes fed on arable fields, a Wryneck called and Norman spotted a Little Gull. Once on the bus and moving, a male Montagu’s Harrier swooped down in front of us. We headed for Silma nature reserve. Before getting there we stopped at a bend in the road where cranes flew beautifully low and called and where we found Dactylorhiza incarnata ssp cruenta (Flecked Marsh Orchid), Conopodium majus (Pignut), Tussilago farfara (Coltsfoot) and the intriguing Triglochin maritima (Sea Arrowgrass). Our next stop and lunch was at the Saare Opperada trail. As we approached we were engulfed in clouds of dragonfly, mostly Four Spotted Chaser and Downy Emerald, later we would find some Yellow-spotted Whiteface. Marsh Harrier flew over as we ate our lunch and Bitterns boomed. Nearby Mayflower flowered and we heard Reed and Great Reed Warblers. We climbed two towers both overlooking different aspects of Sutlepa meri (an inland ‘sea’, a lake). The first enabled us to see Little and Red-necked Grebes, Little Gulls and Savi’s Warbler. From the second tower we had Black Terns, Coot, Caspian Terns showing nicely against grey clouds; White-tailed Eagle, House Martin and countless Swifts. On departure from the tower and walking on the board walk, Felicity saw Paris quadrifolia (Herb Paris). And there was also Hepatica nobilis. Dandelions competed with Cowslips as to which grew in greater number. A Roe Deer sprang into view here. We made our way to another tower, the tallest by far, at Haapsallu, where we scanned the Voosikurk inlet, and saw a juvenile White-tailed Eagle plus adults, five in total. In Vaike viik, a lake on the peninsula, we had, eventually, after the rain, excellent views of a pair of Slavonian Grebes. A Greylag Goose ‘crèche’ consisting of eight adults and 15 young made an appearance. Before departing, we visited the fine looking 3 Estonia, species list and trip report, 26th May to 2nd June 2019 train station with its 216m long covered platform and favoured by Russian Czar Nicholas II, and had a fine evening meal, which ended with a warm strawberry purée and vanilla ice cream, Frank Sinatra singing in the background and we overlooked the lake where earlier the Slavonian Grebes had been nest building. We finished the day looking for owls along Pibermanni forest tracks. Pygmy Owls were heard and seen well in the gloaming and Woodcocks flew by, roding, their plaintiff calls and their croaking clearly audible. Nightjars were heard. A running Hare rounded up the day just as we approached our guesthouse. Day 3 Tuesday 28th May Pusie, Pogari-Sassi, Lagleranna matkarada, Udruma meadows, Keemu reserve, Kasari River Moderate south-westerly, sunny intervals. Early birding news was reported back, with Arctic Skua, Goldeneye and Scaup, by Linda and Norma. We set out at 1030 and stopped up the road at Pogari Sassi from where, perched on a hummock we could scan the Vainameri Sea. White-tailed Eagle, Wheatear, Lapwing, Mute Swan, Ringed Plover, Buzzard were all here. We moved onto Lagleranna matkarada and while walking on the boardwalk through scrub and somewhat taller vegetation consisting mostly of Salix phylicifolia (Tea-leaved Willow), with Alnus incana (Grey Alder) and Rhamnus cathartica (Buckthorn) we had superb views of Barred Warbler with its long beak and yellow iris; Red-backed Shrike, Marsh Fritillary among other butterflies, and a pair of Montagu’s Harriers were spotted as we headed to the coastline. Plenty of Birds-eye Primroses in flower, as was Lathyrus palustris (Marsh Pea); Neottia ovata (Twayblade) flowering here and there and as we got nearer to the end of the path there was the lemon yellow of Tetragonolobus maritimus (Dragon’s Teeth) combining well with Vicia cracca (Tufted vetch) and Astralagus danicus (Purple Milk-vetch). At the bay edge Little Ringed Plovers were seen with Grey Plover in smart summer plumage. After lunch in Lihula, we popped into the library as there was a macro photography exhibition of invertebrates. At Udruma, we searched for Lesser Spotted Eagle and River Warbler but were unsuccessful; Buzzard, Fieldfare, Redwing, White Wagtail and Long-tailed Tit (white-headed birds of the caudatus subspecies) were seen. Angelica archangelica ssp littoralis (Sea Garden Angelica) was good to see along the river banks. And thence onto Keemu Nature Reserve where Savi’s Warblers trilled in the early evening with singing Common Rosefinch and Thrush Nightingale. A picnic supper was taken here under cover from the drizzle which persisted all the way until we got to our boat, and we made our way along one of the channels of the Kasari River which drained into Matsalu Bay. We motored past Phragmites autralis (Reed), Viburnum opulus (Guelder Rose), impressive Euphorbia palustris (Marsh Spurge), Iris pseudacorus (Yellow Iris), Angelica and Alnus glutinosa (Alder) all lining the banks. When the boat engine was stopped we could appreciate the sounds of the river: trilling Savi’s, booming Bitterns, trumpeting Cranes, chatty-jittery notes of the Reed Warblers and the repetitive ring of the Reed Bunting. Cormorants flew to their roosts, Marsh Harriers quartered the bank and neighbouring fields, and Swallows swooped in front of us as we drifted in the early evening mist, which held just above the water. Beaver bank-slides and then lodges were seen, when all of a sudden bubbles to our left gave away their occupants’ presence. As we patrolled further, two Beavers were spotted, heads just cutting through the water; their wake breaking the flat surface and coming within feet of the boat before a humpback dive, more bubbles and ripples, and they were gone. Bedraggled from the spitting rain we continued to a watch-tower and improvised jetty.