E D I N B U R G H PA I NT E D B Y OH N FU LLEYLO VE R I . J , . D E SCR I B E D B Y RO SALIN E MASSON WITH TWE N TY- O NE FU LL - PAGE ILLU STRATI ONS IN COL OUR LO NDON ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK I 9 O7 PART I— TH E OLD TOWN C H A P T E R I I H T E ITS LE E E E D NBURG C AS L : G NDS AND ROMANC S C H A P T E R II H HE P E THE A E OLYROOD : T ALAC AND BB Y The Si x Ro al a eses Ma ueen of Sco s and ( y J m ry , Q t ; P ri nc e Ch a rli e) C H A P T E R III H E H H O F T GI E T C URC S . L S l s o n no and enn e es (Ga vinD oug a J h K x j y G dd ) C H A P T E R IV ST IE O F TH E C E TH E W TH E L OR S LOS S , YNDS, AND ANDS C H A P T E R V S E N T E I H IT T TH EI D WE I OM O ABL N AB AN S , AND R LL NGS C H A P T E R VI S E F VI IT AN D THEI C E NT OM AMOUS S ORS , R OMM S v 206 4 9 23 Edinburgh PART II — TH E NE W TOWN C H A P T E R VII PAGE T H E BUILDING O F THE N EW TOWN : A STAM PEDE EOR FRESH AI R C H A P T E R VIII W T H E E DINBURGH O P S I R ALTER SCOTT AND HIS C IRCLE CH A P T E R IX I H O F YE TE SOCIAL E D NBURG S RDAY C H A P T E R X T HE H OMES AND H AUNTS OF ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON C H A PT E R XI E DINBURGH TO - DAY AND To - Mo RRo w IND E X List o f Illustra tions E i n ur f o Cal onH ill 1 . d b gh r m t 2 The C asle fro the Esana e . t m pl d ’ s fr the erra e of H e i o s s The C a tl e om T c r t H o pi t al h stl e Edi nburgh fro m t e Ca l o h u li c G a ns H olyrood P a ace fr m t e P b rd e und er Calt on H ill 6 The A ar ensof Ma ueen of Sco si nH ol roo . p tm t ry Q t y d Palace The u of S G lesf o the Law nmark et Ch r ch t. i r m The ur of S Gi esf o the C o ur s C h c h t . l r m t ’ o n no sH o use H i S ee J h K x , gh tr t ’ i s os Lady Sta r Cl e The C anon a te ol oo loo i n es g T b th, k g W t ’ Nort h Front of George H eri o t sH ospi t al ’ Quadrangle of G eo rge H eri o t sH ospi t a l ’ ’ The Ma sMonu en inthe G a ve a Gre f i a s rtyr m t r y rd , y r r O ld H ousesinCanongate sSt ee fro th S s h w Clu Pri nce r t m e t ep o f t e Ne b ’ The H igh Sc h o ol and BurnssMonum ent from J effr ey Str eet Edinburgh ’ Si r Wa lte r Sco tt sMo num ent from t he s Street Ga rden ’ h i s Arthur sSea t from t e Br a d H i ll The Wa t er o f Lei th from D eanBridge The N ati o nal Monum ent onC alt onH ill The Illustr tion: inthisv olume a w ere engra v ed inEng la nd by Me - Hea rse/tel Colourt e Process yp . viii C H A PTE R I E D I N BU R G H C A S T L E : I TS L E G E N D S A N D R OMA N C E S e e wa c n i the easala s Th r , t hi g h gh l t rm , ou ru e fo esslea sa fa Thy r gh, d rtr g m r Li e so e ol ve e an ra inar s k m b d t r , g y m , nd a wi an a A m rk ed th m y Seamy sca r The on e ousw all and assb ar p d r m y , ’ G i isi n o er the ru e roc r m r g gg d k , H ave oft wi soo assai l n w ar th t d i g , ’ And oft e elle the i nva rs r p d d e sh oc k TH E great line of east coast lying between the two headlands of Norfolk and A berdeenshire is nowhere broken by another so bold and graceful indentation as that of the Firth of Forth . The Forth has its birth among hills that look down on Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond ; flows thence in a pretty tortuous course - towards the east , forming a boundary line between the countries of the Gael and the Sassenach is replenished by the Tei th from the Trossachs and by the Allan from m Strathmore ; eanders at the foot of Stirling Castle, and seems never to weary of weaving its silver windings into that green expanse of country where most the 3 Edinburgh Scottish imagination loves to linger until at last , when O chils there is poured into it the Devon from the , its s l channel widens to the sea omewhat sudden y . But S even here the diverging banks , once so near, how an occasional friendly inclination to meet and at one point there is only a mile of blue water and white waves w between them , and then the vie widens and the shores a part irrevoc bly , the one stretching away to the extreme east neuk of Fife , and looking To No owa to Nor owa rr y, r y, To No rroway ow er the faem and the other rolling with softer curves to the South and England, while the great German Ocean ebbs and flows between . The point where the banks of the Forth are but a mile apart is now spanned by that triumph of engineer — the ing , the Forth Bridge , largest bridge in the world ; but in olden days there was here a famous crossing, and the names of the villages on the opposite banks , North Queensferry and South Queensferry, still carry the mind back to the days when Malcolm ’ Canmore s stately Saxon Queen , Saint Margaret of c S otland , was ferried across here on her way between al the p ace of Dunfermline and the Castle of Edinburgh . Edinburgh was not then , nor for centuries after, the u Capital of Scotland , but merely a seful stronghold —a near the Borders, great rock rising abruptly among woods and lochs and hills, on which , from before the a — an e rliest legends of history , a fortress had stood , 4 Edinburgh Castle n impregnable castle , built so long ago that one knows ’ its origin , nor even the origin of its name . Stow s C/z roni cle a , indeed , dates the foundation of the C stell s" Ma den 8 B . C . of y 9 9 , which is a sensational date to mention lightly to the inquiring tourist from the newer world It is supposed that the name “ Castell Ma dens of y was gained because , in legendary days , certain Pictish princesses were kept there for safety ; i and certainly , from those hazy times right on t ll the time of Mary, Queen of Scots , when she was sent to the Castle for security before the birth of King James , Edinburgh Castle has always been a useful place of safety to which to send royalties and rebels . The earliest authentic romance of Edinburgh Castle is that of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret ; and the oldest building extant in Edinburgh is Queen ’ Margaret s chapel in the Castle . - The well known story of Queen Margaret, the - f grand niece of Edward the Con essor, is that she and her brother Edgar Atheling and her sister Christina f all led from England and William the Conqueror, and were wrecked in the Firth of Forth . The King of Scotland , Malcolm Canmore , was the son of that Duncanwhom Macbeth put out of the way— inScottish ’ — history as well as in Shakespeare s play , and he had f led from the usurper , and had spent his years of exile at the Saxon Court of Edward the Confessor. sonof unca n The D Fro m who m thistyrant holdsthe due of bi rth 5 Edinburgh Li v esi nthe En liscou a n s i g h rt ; d i r ece v ed O f t he os i o usE w a wi su m t p d rd th ch grace Th a t the m alevol ence o f fortune nothing a esf o hisi resec T k r m h gh p t .