~..o-4~r-­ P. t('. R. ,.n.~~r. '15 ~-~'~'- _· ,i· ~ ~-•' --:--:-.-.,~~~-. .p~«...A --~ ~tu.·~ -d.LI~ ~- - . ~~- 2.~:~- tq"A-<t ~ THE-PILGRIMS' WAY IN SOUTH AFRICA By the same Author LADY ANNE BARNARD AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, I 797-I 802. Illustrated oy a series of Sketches oy Lady Anne Barnard. LADY DUFF GORDON'S LETT~RS FROM THE CAP& OF GOOD HOPE, t86I-I862. With an lntro­ dt!ction by the late Janet Ross. HISTORIC ·HOUSES OF SOUTH AFRICA. With a preface oy GeneraiJ. C. Smuts. A HISTORY OF SOUTH AFRICA . SKIDDLE. ·A Nature Story of South Africa. Pu!Jlished !Jy the Oxford University Press London : Humphrey Milford THE HEX RIVER VALLEY From the original by Gwelo Goodman THE PILGRIMS' WAY IN SOUTH AFRICA BY DOROTHEA FAIRBRIDGE WITH A FRONTISPIECE IN COLOUR BY R. GWELO GOODMAN 32 PHOTOGRAVURES FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY LANCELOT USSHER 4 AND MANY.OTHER· ILLUSTRATIONS OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS HUMPHREY MILFORD LONDON 1928 Printed in Great Britain CONTENTS List of Illustrations PAGE vii The People of the Land Introduction 1 I The Cape Peninsula 10 II From van Riebeeck's Hillside 20 III Northwards 29 IV Rhodesia 34 v A Pilgrimage from Bulawayo 42 VI The Smoke that Thunders 51 VII A Rhodesian Tobacco Plantation 63 VIII Johannesburg 71 IX The Pretoria Road 82 x Pilgrim's Rest 89 XI To the Zoutpansberg 103 XII Durban 120 XIII To Eshowe 128 XIV To Griqualand East 137 xv From Griqualand East to Grahamstown 149 XVI To George and the Knysna 162 XVII The Journey's End 181 The Spell of the Cape Epilogue 185 Index 192 v ILLUSTRATIONS The Hex River Valley. Gwelo Goodman Frontispiece An early Portuguese inap. A. Elliott facing page I An old print of Table Bay. A. Elliott 4 Eighteenth century Dutch types. From drawings by Lady Anne Barnard 5 Jan van Riebeeck. From the original in the Rijks Museum, Amsterdam c • 8 Pulpit by Anton Anreith in the Groote Kerk. E. Drake 9 Cape Town and Table Mountain. Lancelot Ussher IO Muizenberg from Wynberg. Lancelot Ussher I I Groot Constantia. Lancelot Ussher I4 Stellenberg, at Kenilworth. Lancelot Ussher IS Agapanthus at Kirstenbosch. Lancelot Ussher I 6 A pool-at Kirstenbosch. Lancelot Ussher I7 Hout Bay. Lancelot Ussher I8 Mesembryanthemum at Hout Bay. Lancelot Ussher I9 Proteas. · Lancelot Ussher 22 Muizenberg from Tokai. Lancelot Ussher 23 Bange Hoek. Lancelot Ussher 24 Hermanns. Lancelot Ussher 25 Vergelegen. The old wine-cellar. A. Elliott 26 Door of a burgher's house in old Cape Town. A. Elliott 27 Stone pine andagapanthus at Kirstenbosch. Lance lot Ussher 28 Ornithogalum at Tulbagh. Lancelot Ussher 29 The mail train in the Karoo. South African Railways 30 .. Vl1 ILLUSTRATIONS The old Dutch Reformed Church, Tulbagh. South African Railways. 3r Harvest in the Hex River Valley. South African Railways 32 The great hole at Kimberley. South African Railways 33 Zi~babwe: I. Chevron pattern on SE. wall of Elliptical Temple. 2. Interior of Western Temple, Acropolis. Southern Rhodesian Publicity Bureau. Zimbabwe: I. Plat- form of Western Temple, Acropolis. 2. Conical Towers and Monoliths. Southern Rhodesian Publicity Bureau 3 6, 37 Wagons laden with mealies. Lent by British South Africa Company , 40 GovernmentHouse,Bulawayo. LentbyHighCommissioner for Southern Rhodesia 4I The war memorial, Bulawayo. E. Drake 44 The cloister, war memorial. H. T. Healey, Bulawayo 45 The grave of Cecil Rhodes. Rhodesia Railways 48 In the Matopos. Grey Granite and Red Foliage. Rhodesia Railways 49 The Big Tree on the Zambezi. Rhodesia Railways 52 The Rainbow Falls. Rhodesia Railways 53 The Main Falls. -Argus Co. Lent by Rhodesia Railways 56 The Boiling Pot. Rhodesia Railways 51 Papyrus on the Zambezi. Lancelot Ussher 6o Palms on the Zambezi. Lancelot Ussher 6I Natives planting tobacco. Lent by British South Africa Company 64 A citrus nursery. · Lent by British South Africa Company 65 Khami Ruins. Basch & Co. Lent by Rhodesia Railways 68 Mazoe Dam. - Lent by British South Africa Company 69 Vlll ILLUSTRATIONS The.Terrace at Northwards, Johannesburg. Alan Yates. Lent by Sir Herbert Baker 72 ]:;'rom the terrace, Northwards. Alan Yates. Lent by Sir Herbert Baker 13 Mine dumps covered with sand. Lancelot Ussher j6 A garden in Parktown. Lancelot Ussher 77 House built for Sir Drummond Chaplin. -Sir Herbert Baker So AtRoedeanSchool. Alan Yates. LentbySirHerbertBaker 81 General Smuts 82 General Smuts and his crane. Dorothea Fairbridge 83 The Union Buildings, Pretoria. Alan Yates. Lent by Sir Herbert Baker 86 Interior, UnionBuildings. Alan Yates. LentbySirHerbert Baker 87 . ·The Terrace, Government House1 Pretoria. Alan Yates._ Lent by Sir Herbert Baker 88 View from the Terrace. -Alan Yates. Lent by Sir Herbert Baker 89 Looking down on the Low Veld. The Devil's Window. South African Railways 92 Church built by Sir H. Baker at Sabie. Mr. R. Barry 93 Wattle trees stripped of bark. Mr. R. Barry · 96 The bark laid out to dry. Mr. R. Barry 97 A buck-board on its way from the Low Veld. Mr.R.Barry- 98 Trek Boers camping. Colmar Wocke 99 Impala in the Sabie Game Reserve. SouthAfricanRailways 102 Wildebeest in the Sabie Game Reserve._ South African Railways 103 . lX ILLUSTRATIONS Zebra in the Sabie Game Reserve. SouthAfricanRailways ,' 104 Impala. South African Railways 105 Near Westfalia. South African Railways 108 A grove of pawpaws. South African Railways. 109 Crossing a drift in the northern Transvaal. South African Railways. 112 A herd of Aberdeen Angus. South African Railways 113 In the Botanic Gardens, Durban. South African Railways 120 Durban Town Hall. South African Railways 121 Umkoinaas. Lancelot Ussher 128 A Natal Farm. Vryhied. Lancelot Ussher 129 Building a hut in Zululand. Captain Gatti. 130 A Zulu family. · Captain Gatti 131 A Zulu warrior. Captain Gatti 134 Native girls with reeds for mats. South African Railways 135 Pass between Eshowe and Melmouth.· Lancelot Ussher 136 A hill-side. Lancelot Ussher 137 Azalea Indica in ·the Botanic Gardens, Pietermaritzburg 138 A heap of mealie-cobs, East Griqualand. Dorothea Fairbridge 139 Aloes in the Transkei. South African Railways 142 Native huts in the Transkei. South African Railways 143 The Eastern Buttress, Mont aux Sources. Lancelot Ussher 148 The Camel, Mont aux Sources. Lancelot Ussher 149 Looking down on the Low Veld near Harrismith. South African Railways 150 Government Buildings, Bloemfontein. South African Railways 151 X ILLUSTRATIONS Chapel at St. Peter's Training College, Grahamstown. From a photograph lent by the architects, Sir H. Baker ~Mr. F. Kendall 152 War Memorial Tower, St. Andrew's College. From a photograph lent by the architects, Messrs. Kendall & Morris 153 The old fort at Grahamstown. E. Drake x6o Bridge over the Gou~tz River. South African Railways 161 An ostrich farm at Oudtshoom. South African Railways 164 The Ebb and Flow near George. A. Elliott 165 The Outeniqua Mountains near George. Lancelot Ussher 172 Old yellow-wood trees in the Knysna Forest. Lancelot Ussher 173 A stink-wood rustbank. A. Elliott 176 Chair and armoire made of Knysna woods 177 At Bishopscourt. Lancelot Ussher x8o In the water garden, Bishopscourt. Lancelot Ussher 181 Looking across False Bay. Lancelot Ussher 186 Kalk Bay. Lancelot Ussher 187 Water-hyacinths at Kirstenbosch. Lancelot Ussher · 190 Immortelles. 191 . X1 INDEX AGATHA HILLS. IO'J Camp's Bay 189 Albertinia 179 Cango Caves 164 Alice I 54 CapeTown Il Almeida, F. d' 4 Carter, Mrs. 183 Altamira 35 Castle, The 13 Amanizimtoti 127 Chaka 131 Arabs '• 3,36 Chartered Company 40 Chitombo .52 BAKER, SIR H. 73,80 Cogul 35 Bantu 2,39 Coninck, Skipper I Barnard, Lady A •. 22 Constantia IS ·Barry, Mr. R. 93 Coope, Major Jessor 6J Basuto 2, 114, 141 Cotton IJ2,I33 Basutoland 78,149 Cradock 152 Bechuanaland 43 Bechuanas 2 DAL ]OSAPHAT 21 Benoni 74 Davigul 20 Bent, Mr. T. 37 DelagoaBay 97 1 101 Birds of Rhodesia 67 Diaz, B. 3,159 Bishopscourt 181 Dingaan 134 Bloemfontein ISI Dingiswayo I3I Blyde Rivier 97 Donkin, Sir R. I6o Boers 7, 71, IIO Donovan, Mr. III Boksburg 74 Doornkloof 83 Boom, H. I2 Dovenby 63 Botha, General I5I Drakensberg I39,I49 Botha's Hill I 54 Drakenstein I7 Brand, Pr~ident I 52 Dromedaris, TM II Broederstroom I09 Duivel's Kloof 106 Bulawayo 46 Duncan, Mr. P. 71 Burton, Mr. R. 169 Durban 121 Bushmen I, 2 . Dutch, Arrival of the 5 Bushveld 97 • EAsT INDIA CoMPANY {ENGLISH) s CALEDON 25 East India Company (Dutch) s Camissa 21 Eden I02 1()2 INDEX Elgin 25 Rout Bay 18,182 Elands~t 95 Huguenots 23 Enkwaleni 132 Eshowe 132 ILLOVO 127 Eucalyptu~ 96 Indians in Natal 129 Eva 24 lnungi 146 Irene 83 FITZHERBERT, H. 4 Isipingo 127 Fitzsimons, Dr. 161 Franklin 138 JAMESON' DR. 42,50 French Hoek 22,26 I ock of the Bushveld 98 Friesland cows 139 Johannesburg 33.72 'K, 109 GABBEMA,A. 21 Kafir 2 Gania, Vasco da J6 Kalahari I Gamtoos River 162 Kamasassie Dam 178 George x66 Karoo JI Germiston 74 Karoo-bush ISS 6 Graaff Reinet Kendall, Mr. F. ·154 Graham, COlonel 158 K.hama 43 Grahamstown 152 Khami 67 Graskop 98 Khoi-Khoin I Gravelotte 103 King, Dick 126 Great Brak River 179 King Williamstown 148 Great Fish River 152 -Kirstenbosch 17,i82 Griqualand East IJ7,IJ8 Klasserie 102 Groot Drakenstein 26 Knysna · 173. 181 Groote Schuur Kokstad 147 Gwaai 52 Koopmans-de Wet House· ,:. 14 HAENERTZBERG 110 LABORIE 25 Hall, Mr. R.N. 37 Leeuwenhof 14,182 Hammond, Mr. I. H. 35 Leguat, F •. 25 Henry the Navigator, Prince 3 Liesbeek 181 Herodotus 3 Little Karoo 162. :> Homo Rhodesiensis 34 Livingstone, Dr. · 6o Hoop, The II Lobatsi 43 Hottentots I Lobengula 39 193 INDEX Lovedale 154 Oudtshoom 163 Low Veld 94 Outeniquas 16S Lydenberg s9 Ovampo ' 2 MAciVER, PRoF.