Page 1 Thursday ▲ FASHION: Beyoncé ▲ FASHION: WW DBA SELPREVIEWSECTIO N II ▲ gets fi erce with MEN’S: Japan Thierry Mugler concert Retailer Fashion costumes, page 3. Bigsby & Week, WatchTI brands areME striving for balance W in these rocky I L times. LCompanies T showing E at BaselworldLL 2009 — the industry’s major trade show that starts today in Basel, Switzerland, and runs through April 2 — are trying from edgy to ignite consumer interest, while retaining a recession-sensitive sensibility. Kruthers ▲ SECTION II: to relaunch to surreal, WWDBaselPreview in Chicago, page 5. page 8. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 26, 2009 • $3.00 WWDSportswear/Men’s THURSDAY Neck and Neck The move toward the turtleneck trend for fall is yielding rich textures and romantic versions, making it the perfect versatile investment piece — increasingly important given the economic times. Here, a Gilded Age braided cashmere turtleneck worn with a pleated fl annel trouser by Michael Kors. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Changing of the Guard: Estée Lauder Cos. Taps Fabrizio Freda as CEO By Pete Born and Molly Prior After 16 months of anticipation, Fabrizio Freda has been named president and chief executive officer of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., effective July 1, following a board vote on Wednesday. As expected, he will succeed William P. Lauder, 48, who will move up to executive chairman, taking the place vacated by his father Leonard A. Lauder, 75, who will become chairman emeritus. Freda, the 51-year-old former president of Global Snacks for Procter & Gamble Co., was named Lauder’s president and chief operating officer in November 2007, and joined the company in March of last year. Upon arriving at Lauder, Freda embarked on a global listening tour to all the $7.9 billion company’s far-flung operations and then set out to draft a See Freda, Page13 PHOTO BY DANIEL GARRIGA PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSSportswear/Men’sDAY FASHION 6 The incredible allure of the turtleneck, its richness ™ and simplicity, has led designers to create the chicest alternative to neckwear this season. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based GENERAL on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated After much anticipation, Fabrizio Freda has been 1 named president and chief executive officer of the OOH LA LA, MAMA! Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., effective July 1. 5 William Fung, global managing director of Li & Maternity Wear Meets The Designer Challenge Fung Ltd., sees flat growth in 2009 as its customers predict 10 to 20 percent sales declines. Twenty years ago, maternity wear was a necessary “incredibly well.” On the other hand, she says her Japan Fashion Week took off with plenty of s evil, defined by tent dresses, mini-floral trapeze tops, business model has included a wide range of prices 5 theatrics, from models in Mexican wrestling and floppy bows. Today’s maternity apparel, on the since starting up in 2002. masks to the lifelike robot at the Shinmai show. other hand, is so flush with designer style that moms- “That’s allowed for a good transition into this 9 DENIM: Calvin Klein is bringing its expertise in to-be want to indulge in a new wardrobe. economy, as customers know they can find many innerwear and denim together for its latest project, Destination Maternity’s Rebecca Matthias, price points in our stores and online,” she says. Calvin Klein Jeans Body, to bow in July. president and chief creative officer, says she doesn’t Matthias says the down economy has even like to use the word “maternity” when Motherhood performing well – with items like 10 BEAT: Marvel Entertainment is starting 2009 describing the apparel offered through the company’s jeans that retail for $19.99 every day. Higher-end with a major push into the women’s apparel, nameplates, which include Motherhood Maternity, A Pea in The Pod is doing well, she says, because cosmetics and accessories markets. A Pea in the Pod and Destination Maternity. of promotional 2-for-1 events and price breaks 11 CHICAGO: Midwest retailers and vendors will enter “I like to say it’s fashion, we on certain items displayed front- Saturday’s Stylemax regional women’s apparel just make it fit you when you’re of-store. market with tempered expectations. pregnant,” she explains. “Our “I like to say it’s fashion, we “Value means different things mission is to make a woman’s to different people,” Matthias EYE wardrobe as nice as the last month just make it fit you when says. “A $300 dress that’s marked Talking with Hope Davis, who runs a theatrical before she became pregnant.” you’re pregnant.” to $200-something will be viewed 4 gauntlet in “God of Carnage” that leaves the In the last six months, 7% of – Rebecca Matthias, as a real value for the better audience in hysterics and her breathless. females have purchased maternity customer.” president and chief creative officer, Basel Preview is included as a clothing for themselves, according Pardue adds that sales in her Araisara Destination Maternity Section II in this issue. to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle better and designer bottoms have Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 Monitor™ survey. Ten percent of increased in the last two years. the lowest earners – those with a “Fashion is where mommies TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. household income of less than $25,000 – bought are willing to spend... even in a battered economy,” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 maternity apparel, while 8% of women earning she notes. “We offer these higher price-point pieces FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. more than $75,000 bought pregnancy clothing. to pair with lower-priced basics. Women justify the VOLUME 197, NO. 64. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June Just 4% of women with household incomes in the expensive jeans [because] they’ll get tons of wear and and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division $25,000-$74,000 range did so. look hip.” of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services More than 4.3 million babies were born in the provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Julia Beck, founder of Forty Weeks, a consulting Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage U.S. in 2007, more than any other year in the nation’s and marketing firm that studies expectant and new paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. history, according to numbers released March 18 mothers, says a wardrobe that works for the entire Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES from the National Center for Health Statistics, pregnancy and into the “fourth trimester,” (the post- TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS which resulted in American women spending more partum pudgy period) is embraced by many moms- CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed than $1.2 billion on maternity apparel. to-be. on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all According to data from NPD Fashionworld’s “Each piece in a limited wardrobe needs to editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. AccuPanel, purchases of maternity clothing were up For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online perform well and offer a lot of wearing options,” at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. 3.6% from 2007 to 2008, compared to purchases of Beck states. “This has become a big focus – building Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services total women’s apparel, which declined 5.6%. a wardrobe around a few key pieces that work that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT Song Pardue, founder and CEO of Pickles & endlessly. And of course, comfort is essential.” RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, Ice Cream, a maternity boutique chain and online Since 78% of female respondents tell the UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER store, says there has been a lot of growth in casual Monitor survey that soft, breathable cotton and MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY and business-casual attire.