©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Southern Madagascar Why Go? The Desert .......................74 Southern Madagascar is a wide-open adventure among Parc National de l’Isalo ...74 some of nature’s most dramatic forms. The stark desert Ilakaka ............................ 77 canyons of Isalo rival those of Arizona. The western coast The Great Reef ............... 78 off ers a massive coral reef, the fi fth largest in the world. The cape is the last stop before Antarctica. And miles and miles Tuléar (Toliara) ............... 79 of spiny forest contain the strangest and most formidable Northern Reef ................84 plants on Earth. There are also two scruff y cities, Tuléar (To- Southern Reef ................88 liara) and Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro), but that is not why The Cape .........................91 you came. The question is how to tackle a region of this size. Itampolo to For many, a lodge in Isalo and a slice of beach are enough. Fort Dauphin ....................91 But for others, the south is the perfect recipe for off -road Fort Dauphin exploration, an episode of Top Gear you can write yourself. (Taolagnaro) ................... 93 There are thousands of kilometres of dirt tracks, many of Around Fort Dauphin......96 them reasonably good, with no one on them. Renting a 4WD isn’t cheap, but everything else is, so get your expedition underway. Best Places to Eat » Isalo Rock Lodge (p 76 ) » Corto Maltese (p 82 ) When to Go » Chez Cecile (p 86 ) Tuléar » Anakao Ocean Lodge °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 20/500 (p 90 ) 30/86 16/400 » Auberge Peter Pan (p90 ) 20/68 12/300 Best Places to 10/50 8/200 Stay 0/32 4/100 -10/14 0 » Bakuba (p 82 ) J FDNOSAJJMAM » Anakao Ocean Lodge (p 90 ) Jul–Sep Whale- Sep–Nov Ideal Dec–Mar Rainy watching season four-wheeling season makes » Le Relais de la Reine (p 76 ) on the Great Reef. season. travel difficult; » Le Relais d’Ambola (p91 ) many dirt roads » Satrana Lodge (p 76 ) impassable. 73 Tanandava Ambalavao Morombe Lac Ihotry Bevoay Pic Boby Andavadoaka (2658m) Ankazoabo Parc National de l'Isalo Ihosy Antambohobe Vohipeno r River ive Ivohibe Salary R Ranohira Parc National Mananara Zombitse-Vohibasia Malio Ilakaka Manombo RN7 Farafangana Ankasy River Ih River o Sakaraha s y R Ifaty/Mangily iherenana F Andranovory Betroka iv e r aloto Vangaindrano Miary iver fotsy Tuléar Im R Ihazo Bezaha Tropic of Onilahy River St Augustine Kilarivo River Mahabo Capricorn Réserve Spéciale Nosy Ve Anakao de Beza-Mahafaly SOUTHERN MADAGASCAR SOUTHERN MADAGASCAR Betioky RN13 SOUTHERN MADAGASCAR Befotaka Ambatry RN12 Beheloka Lac Tsimanampetsotsa Ambola RN10 Beraketa River Parc National de Bekily re Manantenina Tsimanampetsotse Ejeda dra Parc National Great Reef an M d'Andohahela Bekitro Reakaly Itampolo Tranoroa Pic St Louis Linta River Mahatalaky Ampanihy Antanimora (529m) Baie Sainte Luce Tsimelahy Evatra Saodona Réserve Privée Ankazofotsy Réserve de Androka de Berenty Nahampoana Beloha Ambovombe Ranopiso Fort Dauphin Tsiombe Lac (Taolagnaro) Menarandra River Ambondro Anony Antsarika Lavanono Amboasary Domaine de la Marovato Cascade Réserve Spéciale de Faux Cap (Betanty) Cap Sainte Marie Ankaratravitra Cap Sainte Marie I N D I A N O C E A N 0 100 km 0 60 miles Southern Madagascar Highlights 1 Snorkel, dive, fi sh, or 4 Arrive in style: take the 7 See elephant bird eggshell paddle the Great Reef (p 78 ) speedboat from Tuléar to fragments in Faux Cap (p 92 ) 2 Visit the sapphire mines Anakao (p 89 ) 8 Take a dip in the Piscine of Ilakaka (p 77 ): that ring will 5 Stand at the very tip of Naturelle at Parc National de never look the same the ‘eighth continent’ at Cap l’Isalo (p 74 ) 3 Drive the coastal sand Sainte Marie (p 92 ) 9 Say hi to the lemurs at track through the spiny forest 6 Hang out with the surfers Réserve de Nahampoana (p 96 ) north of Tuléar (p 84 ) at Lavanono (p 91 ) a Lunch by the mouth of the Onilahy River in the remote town of St Augustine (p 89 ).