New York_neighborhood A rose grows in Spanish Harlem SPANISH HARLEM IS MANHATTAN LIKE YOU’VE NEVER SEEN IT BEFORE Dramatically transformed by New York’s real estate boom art. You’ll find a host of post-war period graphics, paintings, from a dangerous no-go area to a trendy must-see photography, video and mixed-media works in the destination, the reborn Spanish Harlem throbs with permanent collection, plus special exhibits throughout the vibrant Latin culture, lively hotspots, historic sightseeing year showcasing the most important Latino artists. Founded and hip shopping. From its bustling commercial hub on in the ‘60s amid the earth-shaking Civil Rights movement, East 116th street, concentric circles of energy radiate the Museo affirms the socially transformative power of art. outward toward the Harlem River to the north, East 96th street to the south, Fifth avenue to the west and eastward Prefer a more spontaneous cultural experience? Check to First avenue. Easily reached by an uptown bus or out the Graffiti Hall of Fame on East 106th street. subway, “El Barrio” – for all its past notoriety – boasts a Founded by community activist Ray Rodriguez (aka reassuring proximity to the staid Upper East Side of “Sting Ray”) in 1980, this venue was launched to provide elegant streets and swank hotels. street artists with their own platform. The perfect place to begin your personal tour of this historic Upper East Siders who in the past rarely ventured north area is the renowned Museo del Barrio atop Fifth avenue’s of 96th street, now flock to the Costco outlet in the new Museum Mile at 104th street. Just across from Central East River Plaza Mall on East 116th. While some cynics Park’s splendid Conservatory Garden, the Museo contains with a wistful attachment to street crime may sigh, “dere a treasure trove of Caribbean, Latino and Latin American goes da ‘hood,” the discount retailer acts as an oasis of ©Mark Babushkin 260 aïshti magazine Hungry? Spanish Harlem abounds with wonderful eateries of all kinds. Casual. Elegant. Take what comes. Fancy an alluring spot with a definite edge to it? Try Camaradas el Barrio. Noted for its extensive beer selection and sultry live music, Camaradas attracts a hip, young crowd who find themselves welcome to party until the wee small hours. In addition to music, the friendly staff and excellent home-cooked specialties keep people from all over town headed back for more. For superb pastries, head south from Camaradas on First avenue to La Tropezienne Bakery. The kind of family-run establishment long since extinct in other parts of high-rent Manhattan, La Tropezienne has attracted a vigilantly loyal patronage with its mouth- watering croissants, fruit tarts, baguettes and Napoleons – plus a scrumptious sandwich menu and specialties such as chicken pot pie for a hearty (and delightfully inexpensive) lunch. The owner, as you may have guessed, is French! retail harmony. On any given day, you’ll find the aisles full On East 114th street, the legendary Rao’s has been of public housing tenants and Park avenue high-hats serving up sensational Neapolitan cuisine for decades. placidly fulfilling different household needs. After this closely guarded culinary secret was exposed by a 1977 rave review in the New York Times, Emblematic of the neighborhood’s cutting-edge boutiques reservations have been scarcer than rent-controlled is Goliath on East 105th street. Amusingly tricky to find, apartments. And no wonder – with only 10 tables and the place has a BAR sign out front (a relic from an earlier one seating per evening, demand far exceeds supply. incarnation). The shoes and accessories are the standout, Fortunate souls who score a table enjoy quirky decor, with hard-to-find brands and styles. warm hospitality and a delightful jukebox along with a aïshti magazine 261 JOURNEYS New York_neighborhood phenomenal dining experience. Not coming to New York until next year? Call now for a reservation and keep your fingers crossed. At the very least, a seat at the bar is usually available, if only to rub elbows with the glitterati. Owner Frank Pellegrino counts Martin Scorsese, Nicole Kidman, Madonna, Ron Howard, Mariah Carey, Celine Dion, Gloria Estefan and Donald Trump among his best customers. Also imperative, for a taste of historic Harlem are the blocks of East 104th and 105th streets between Third and Lexington avenues. Along with old brownstones, you’ll see St. Cecilia’s, an 1870s, Napoleon le Brun-designed Catholic church, with a cross-crowned steeple benevolently dominating the skyline. Step inside to enjoy the sepulchral hush and admire the domed, frescoed ceiling and stained- glass windows, before heading back out to the pulsating, ever-changing landscape of El Barrio. Phoebe Collins Essential info La Tropezienne Bakery El Museo del Barrio 2131 First Ave. 1230 Fifth Ave. Tel. 1.212.860.5324 Tel. 1.212.831.7272, www.elmuseo.org Goliath 175 E. 105th St. Rao’s Tel. 1.212. 360.7683 455 E. 114th St. Tel. 1.212.722.6709, Grafitti Hall of Fame www.raos.com E. 106th St. at Park Ave. Camaradas el Barrio St. Cecilia’s Church 2241 First Ave. 120 E. 106th St. Tel. 1.212.348.2703 www.saint-cecilia-parish.org ©Mark Babushkin 262 aïshti magazine.