Loire and Normandy The magnificent Loire, one of the last undeveloped rivers of Western Europe, passes slowly through this region, alongside elegant châteaux and through lush countryside. On the banks of the Loire’s many beautiful tributaries, there are secluded spots for relaxing swims and picnics. Chenonceau 164236 Loire and Normandy 237 LAVAL LAVAL d-357 d-357 d c db ca b172 a 172 LE MANSLE MANS d-306 d-306 a-11 a-11 d-338 d-338 d-304 d-304 166 a 166b ac bd c d Sablé Sablé d-309 d-309 ORLÉANSORLÉANS d-917 d-917 VendômeVendôme Château-du-LoirChâteau-du-Loir LavardinLavardin d-305 d-305 a-28 a-28 b b a-10 a-10 165 165 ChambordChambord a a ANGERSANGERS 20km 20km n-10 n-10 BLOIS BLOIS d-120 d-120 d-923 d-923 a-11 a-11 d-956 d-956 d-765 d-765 d-751 d-751 c b c d ba d168 ae 168 e RomarantinRomarantin 164 a 164b a b TOURSTOURS -Lanthenay-Lanthenay ChalonnesChalonnes d-751 d-751 ChenonceauxChenonceaux -sur-Loire-sur-Loire d-952 d-952 SaumurSaumur a-85 a-85 a a d-7 d-7 Azay Azay a-85 a-85 171 171Doué-la-FontaineDoué-la-Fontaine a-87 a-87 -le-Rideau-le-Rideau b b d-751 d-751 c b c b 167 167 d-960 d-960 ChinonChinon a a d-760 d-760 b b d-760 d-760 LochesLoches a a d-143 d-143a 169 a 169 d-938 d-938 170 170 CHOLETCHOLET d-775 d-775 a-10 a-10 Loire and Normandy 164 chenonceau 166c lavardin 168c château d’ussé Few people realise that it’s possible to swim in the river pool upstream One of the prettiest villages on the Loir, with a superb You can swim in the Indre near this fairytale castle, but a of this exquisite château spanning the river Cher. Admire its architecture open-air restaurant by the river. more exciting swim is from the sandy banks leading down from the water as the sun sets. to the wild Loire. ChâtelleraultChâtellerault 167 pont romain CHÂTEAUROUXCHÂTEAUROUX 165 étang de monperché Not quite the Pont du Gard, but this ivy-clad, romantic 173b clécy A large, dark lake set in the wooded wonderland of the Sologne, on one of ruin down a track is a real find. Beautiful river pools and A popular weir, with a café, on the river Orne. You can hire the Loire’s extensive cycleways. an island, too. pedalos form the canoe centre upstream. 166 L’ Isle Ver t 166c Cher & Loir 164 chenonceau 165 étang de monperché 166 l’isle verte lat long: 47.3247, 1.0731 lat long: 47.5867, 1.6011 lat long: 47.7581, 0.6964 walk in: 10 mins, easy walk in: 3 mins, moderate walk in: 1 min, easy Magnificent swim on Cher under famous Large secluded lake with jetty for jumps Pretty island park for deep, long swims. château. River island with ruin upstream. in heart of forest. Dark, peaty water. , 20km E of A28/J26. From cemetery , From Chisseaux at D40 road bridge , From Thoury (5km E of Château de in Couture-sur-Loir (D10) follow sign to (by ! Le Moulin Fort) follow L bank Chambord) take D22 dir Dhuizon. After river. Park and cross wooden bridge. footpath downstream 700m to wooded 2.2km turn R on forest track (also GR de It looked like the Zambezi: the sun low in the sky, sandy a Artins 5km E of Couture on D10. river bays above château. Further Pays de Châteaux) and park at end after Pleasant park and picnic area with rope islands glowing golden across the great Loire and flocks of swimming upstream on R bank by island 3km. Lake is 200m S (across gate, R then swing, by bridge at Vieux Bourg birds roosting in the high elephant grass. I camped out and with ruined castle. Also town beach at L). Also accessible from Neuvy (Rue de (47.7553, 0.7425). historic Montrichard. Thoury). took an evening swim, diving into the warm water from the b Troo Grassy riverbank path leads a St-Aignan 20km upstream (D17 from a Etang de L’Oie Warm, shallow lake in sandy bank. Floating out into the gentle flow, I gazed back upstream from bridge beneath trees Montrichard). Park at swimming pool by watery Sologne. Turn off D60 1.1km S (D917). Or 500m further E find café R towards the edge and half expected a crocodile to slide out of town bridges and walk 200m upstream of Bauzy (S of Neuvy) on to minor road Guinguette des Îles (E 06 79 04 54 45) the undergrowth. In fact, I was just by Château d’Ussé 168c. to find sandy beaches and grassy banks (Terres de la Grille/CR22 cycle route) on manicured islands (47.7742, 0.8014). or continue to weir (47.2711, 1.3783). and find lake on left after 2.3.km Riverside ! Les Cochards 1km E off D17, (47.5111, 1.6094). c Lavardin E of Troo with hilltop ruin The Loire, at the heart of this rich, historic region, has and delightful riverside restaurant and further wonderful wild beaches to b Montlivault Riverside beach on 165b never been developed for hydroelectric power or used as explore on tracks to L to Couffy R Relais d’Antan. Grassy bays on Loire with sandy shallows and islands opposite bank (47.7436, 0.8869). a navigation route for transporting goods. By the time it (47.2611, 1.4169). opposite Château de Menars. 5km reaches Orléans on its long journey from the Massif Central, b Chatillon-sur-Cher Pleasant riverside W of Chambord, off D951, 2.3km S of d Pont du Breuil, 1km W of Thoré- la-Rochette (D82). Grassy area with it has grown from a rivière to a substantial fleuve. There are swims, by bridge off D976 (47.2694, Montlivault. Parking on track parallel to 1.4881) and also at Chabris, 12km road, next to river (47.6336, 1.4139). pontoon by bridge. Or turn L, then 500m plenty of shallows for safe paddling, but with up to a kilometre upstream (47.2608, 1.6531). to terrain communal river access. between the river banks in the Loire’s broadest sections, it’s wise to exercise caution. The soft, shifting riverbed can 240 Loire and Normandy 241 165 étang de monperché Once home to the king’s fish 165a etang de l’oie One of many lakes in the watery Sologne region 242 Loire and Normandy 167 168c The wild Loire at Île St-Martin 167 make for unpredictable channels and flows, yet if you are a Indre & Indrois confident swimmer it can be exciting to ride with the currents. 167 pont romain 168 azay-le-rideau Les Aquacycles (E 08 99 23 60 16) to For gentler swims, head for the places with river beaches lat long: 47.1658, 0.9919 lat long: 47.2594, 0.4640 explore the Loire (47.2960, 0.3555). walk in: 3 mins, moderate walk in: 1 min, easy where local families regularly bathe (165b, 170b). e Villandry is 12km further upstream, Enchanting ivy-covered ruins of Roman Pleasant sandy beach by R café and just on the Cher. Follow road N past Many of France’s most famous châteaux cluster along the bridge with small island and pools in car park, just downstream of fairytale, football pitch to stone cross then down region’s smaller rivers – the tributaries of the Loire. The Cher secluded location. island château. to beach and island. On Loire cycle route (47.3444, 0.5094). flows among vineyards and orchards and is the setting for one , 5km N of Loches (D25), just beyond , 9km W of A 85/J 9. Hire canoes £ to of the Loire Valley’s most exquisite châteaux, Chenonceau 64. L’Isle Auger, bridge is signed on L. Park explore streams around château. Also at end of lane and follow track 100m to swimming around island from riverside Its perfect line of white Renaissance arches spans the river river. More pools downstream of ruins ! Le Sabot (E 02 47 45 42 72) on N bank. 169 montrésor, indrois lat long: 47.1544, 1.2025 and provides a stunning and memorable backdrop for anyone and island. a Marnay is 7km downstream (W on walk in: 20 mins, easy who swims here. You can access the large river pool from the a St-Jean-St-Germain is 5km S of D120). Pretty, tucked-away pools on 168 Charming riverside walk with deep wooded bay just upstream, adjacent to the picturesque ruins Loches. Grassy picnic area by road Indre sub-stream. At Marnay turn L (D7) bridge and beaches beneath weir. and find track on R after 200m. Follow lily-fringed pool at Pont du Jardinier. of an old mill, le Moulin Fort. Upstream to the east are several Deeper longer section upstream for 400m to find small sandy pools on L Stunning village and Monet-like gardens. other delightful swimming locations, such as the sandy (47.0858, 1.0383). See also Swim 69. (47.2858, 0.3872). Outdoor theatre performances in summer. riverside beaches at St-Aignan 164a and quiet riverbanks of b Veigne 10km S of Tours off D17. b Pont de Grenon Quiet picnic area / , In Vallé de l’Indrois, 17km E of Loches Chatillon-sur-Cher 164b. Popular riverside area with deep water beach with playground. Turn N off D7 for jumps, plus lido for kids (47.28917, 1km W of Rivarennes, dir Rupuanne (D760).