Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. September 2016 Volume XXI, Number 1 NOTE: Change in Time of Meeting: “Is the Kitchen the New Venue of Foreign Policy? 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. Food, Diasporas and Building Community” Save These Dates: Speaker: Johanna Mendelson-Forman, Ph.D, J.D. September 11 October 9 Sunday, September 11 November 13 NOTE! NEW MEETING TIME 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. December 11 Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center January 8, 2017 4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, MD 20814 February 12, 2017 March 12, 2017 CHoW member Dr. Mendelson-Forman’s talk, “Is the April 9, 2017 Johanna Mendelson- Kitchen the New Venue of Foreign May 7, 2017 Forman is a Scholar Policy? Food, Diasporas and Building in Residence at Community,”will delve into the the fol- American Univer- lowing: CELEBRATING sity’s School of CHoW ‘s International Ser- • Is food a form of soft power? 20th Anniversary! vice, where she is • Can cooking help build world peace? teaching a course on • How can training chefs help refugees Renew Your Conflict Cuisine. She fleeing from war? is also a Senior As- Membership in sociate at the Center Food is a powerful tool to build communi- CHoW NOW for Strategic and International Studies ties, but food is also a well-known weapon (CSIS) at American University. In March, of war. Johanna will discuss the concept of for 2016-17! she was a panelist speaking on “Immigrant conflict cuisines in today’s global environ- Cuisine” at the Les Dames d’Escoffier ment and explores some of the current The membership year D.C’.s biennial symposium, “Celebrating trends in the way countries use food to runs from September 1 Food.” help build their brand. to August 31. Annual Connecting war and food is something dues are $25 for that came from Johanna’s recognition that individuals, households, in Washington, you could tell where there or organizations. Dues were wars by the number of new ethnic include email delivery of restaurants that opened here. This inspired the newsletter CHoW Line. her recent work on conflict cuisines as a tool for teaching how food is a form of Dues are $35 for members Smart Power as well as a driver of conflict. who also wish to receive a It also linked two subjects, food and con- mailed, paper copy of the flict, in a new interdisciplinary way that makes it easier to understand why in zones newsletter. of conflict, food becomes central to both survival and resilience. Diverse waves of Other Benefits: immigrants have made the District the • Priority registration for capital of “conflict cuisines” with foods field trips from Vietnam, Ethiopia, Central America, • GoogleGroups notices and elsewhere enriching the culinary life • Membership roster of both the city and suburbs. Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC) www.chowdc.org founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, cuisines, and culi- nary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law. What Happened at the May 1 CHoW Meeting? President Bruce Reynolds called the meeting to order at 2:40 p.m. There were 28 attending including 3 guests. CHoW Programs 2016-2017 BOARD ELECTIONS FOR 2016-2017 Dianne Hennessy King and CiCi Williamson served on September 11 Johanna Mendelson Forman. “Is the the Nominating Committee. This year, the existing Board Kitchen the New Venue of Foreign Policy? Food, ran unopposed and were re-elected unanimously. Bruce Diasporas and Building Community” Reynolds urged members to consider running for next year, when most of the Board must be replaced according October 9 Dr. William Woys Weaver. “As American as to our Bylaws. See the re-elected board members on page 7. Shoofly Pie: The Foodlore and Fakelore of Pennsylvania Dutch Cuisine” ANNOUNCEMENTS 1. Bruce indicated that starting in September, we will put November 13 Bill Schindler, Ph.D. “Dietary Past: The together a group of people willing to backstop or assist Ancestral Quest for Nutrient Dense Foods” with various tasks so that when the member with the task cannot be present, someone else is ready and available to December 11 Libby O’Connell. “From Caviar to Leek Pie: take his or her place. Needed: --Bring the nametags: Barbara Karth volunteered Food and Society in America’s Gilded Age” --Backstop for the Recording Secretary --Backstop delivery and set-up of the computer/projector January 8, 2017 Joel Denker. “The Carrot Purple and --Backstop beverages and supplies for our refreshments Other Food Passages” 2. Bruce reported that the Board proposed a change in February 12, 2017 Philip Greene. “How the Manhattan starting time to 2 p.m., rather than 2:30 p.m. to make it easi- Changed the Course of American Cocktails” er for visiting lecturers to meet their train/plane schedules, allow attendees to drive home while it’s still daylight in the March 12, 2017 Laura Shapiro. “Women, Food, and winter months, and permitting our business meetings to Biography” run normally. The membership passed the proposal with 20 in favor and 5 opposed. As of September, our meetings will be from 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. April 9, 2017 Cooperative Supper, Alexandria House 2. Dianne Hennessy King, speaking for Claudia Kou- May 7, 2017 CHoW Anniversary Panel soulas who couldn’t attend this meeting, reported that we have a new website designer, Alison Hazen. The upcoming new website will have a special capacity: members who fork into the fire. The three-tine is possibly a toasting fork have their own websites can link them to the CHoW web- dating to the late 18th c; the three tines would allow more site, thus enlarging their own outreach. delicate things to be toasted over the fire, resting in the sway. Willis thinks the forks came from Connecticut or 3. Beverly Firme reported on CHoW Outreach efforts. Maine. A new project, CHoW Goes to Market, is putting CHoW members at selected Farmers’ Markets, demonstrating PROGRAM topics in culinary history. CHoW members Barbara Karth, Susan Pinkard spoke on “Gumbo! The Relationship Be- Laura Roler, Beverly Firme and Mark Collins will demon- tween French Cooking and the Food of French-Speaking strate historic recipes on the following dates: Southern Louisiana.” CiCi Williamson did the introduc- --Salads at the Olney Farmers’ Market on Sunday, May 15 tions for Audrey Hong. --Fruits at the Olney Farmers’ Market, Sunday, June 12 --Elections, Sunday Sept. 18, FRESHFARM Market, REFRESHMENTS Dupont Circle Francine Berkowitz—Post-Passover Coconut Macaroons Outreach to local groups has increased attendance for some Barbara Karth— Brownies CHoW meetings and will continue during 2016-2017. A Katherine Livingston—Remoulade Sauce, usually for special project will focus on outreach at colleges and high shrimps but served here with crackers, from The New Or- schools, focusing on food and social history. Presently the leans Cookbook by Rima and Richard Collins Outreach committee is identifying interested faculty and Judy Newton—Pokeweed with Asian Dressing students to start the project actively when schools begin Clara Raju—Gateau de Figue (Fig Cake) from Encyclopedia of again in September. Cajun and Creole Cuisine, by John Folse Amy Snyder—Milk chocolate-coated Passover Egg Matzoh WHATZITS Willis and Carter Van Devanter brought two cast iron The meeting adjourned at 4:35 p.m. forks, one with two tines, 2’ long, and one with three tines, Respectfully submitted, 3’ long, with a sway that made a small depression among Claire Cassidy, Recording Secretary the tines. The two-tine fork, we believe, is for roasting meat or possibly fish so that they won’t easily fall off the 2 CHoW Line Researching & Styling Food for By CiCi Williamson n email from a friend popped up in Lisa Heathcote’s computer saying, “Keep February open. I’ve got a Anice little period drama coming up.” A food stylist for more than 20 years, Lisa said, “We had no idea what it was going to be.” “It” turned out to be the worldwide jug- gernaut, Downton Abbey (DA) PBS-TV series. I learned what went into the food Complicating the food preparation and serving were the history research and styling for DA travel from Lisa’s home in Wimbledon to Ealing Studios while on an “Edible London” trip and Highclere Castle; and the number of “takes” that were hosted by the London Chapter of Les filmed with a particular menu. The “kitchen” scenes as Dames d’Escoffier International. A well as the interiors of Isobel Crawley and Violet’s homes real treat for me at the Friday “pic- were shot in Stage 2 at nic” lunch was sitting next to, and Ealing Studios in West interviewing, Lisa Heathcote, the London. Lisa would food stylist for six seasons of DA, at have to transport the Kingscote Winery in East Grinstead— finished dishes 60 miles about two hours south of London. (75 minutes) via the This delightful, energetic, and M4 and A34 highways enthusiastic woman—who styled to Highclere Castle in food for innumerable films including Whitway to be served in Mama Mia, Call The Midwife, Upstairs the dining room scenes Downstairs, Les Miserables, National at DA. Lisa’s home is 10 Treasure: Book of Secrets, Batman, Cold miles (30 minutes) from Mountain, The Duchess, and James the studios, and over an Bond: Live Another Day—said, “The hour to Highclere. job isn’t nearly as straightforward, For example, cooking scenes in the “kitchen” Lisa Heathcote and CiCi at the lavish “picnic” lunch. nor as glamorous, as it may sound.