HERITAGE The elegance of a handwritten line Computers have not just destroyed handwriting. The ancient art of calligraphy, which flourished during the times of Qutb Shahi and the Asaf Jahis, is disappearing. The calligrapher, who wrote the Quran, enjoyed an enviable position and his status was next only to the Imam. Lakshmi Prabhala, who went around the Old City of Hyderabad, discovered a lane called Chatta Bazaar, a hub for printing cards, where a few calligraphers are still hard at work writing on wedding invitations and creating beautiful, elegant calligraphy Photographs by Lakshmi Prabhala At Chatta Bazaar, Mohammed Abdul Khaleel Abid is engrossed in his calligraphy or over four centuries, calligraphy has been an integral hath gaye (When the computers came, the hand was gone),” part of Hyderabad’s rich heritage. Chatta Bazaar in Khaleel recalls. Old City, also called Hyderabad’s printing district, F Khaleel, who learnt his craft from his father, says reverently, was once a hub for calligraphers, who were known to use the “I was inspired and encouraged by my ustad, my father qalam (reed pen) with flair and dexterity. When they put a Mohammed Abdul Rasheed, who was an expert calligrapher pen to paper, calligraphers can effortlessly alternate between himself and worked for Siasat for about 15 years.” His sons straight and curved, thick and thin, long and short lines, and are both employed as engineers, and are not inclined to bring to the fore, the spirit of a verse. There is incomparable take up calligraphy as a career. “It is indeed God’s will that beauty here. Since 1990, with the advent in my family the art dies with me,” he of computers and Urdu fonts, their num- says reflectively. bers have dropped rapidly, and just a few fingersmiths continue to practise this Urdu Calligraphy finds its Khaleel is surprised that only a few want elegant art-form in these bylanes. roots in Islamic calligraphy to take up calligraphy these days. He Almost halfway into Chatta Bazaar, tucked when the words of the points out, “I receive a lot of requests for exclusive cards with words written in inside a kaman (arch), an elderly man is holy book of Quran were seated inside a kiosk under a signboard calligraphy, and I am certain that is what that reads “Welcome Printers”. Unmindful first written, and revered people prefer. Computer se jo likthe hai, of the bustle around him, Mohammed khoobsoorati aur baareeki bilkul nahi aati- Abdul Khaleel Abid applies strokes with woh kitabat se hee aati hai!” (The output 10 his qalam to create an artistic interpretation of a Quranic verse. from the computer cannot compare to the beauty and subtle He has been in Chatta Bazaar for more than 40 years, assisting elegance that calligraphy can evoke) the printing shops with his calligraphic designs. In the middle of an arterial road at Punjagutta, stands the “I was working with the Hyderabad based Urdu newspaper, Idara-e-Adabiyat-e-Urdu, the oldest calligraphy training The Siasat Daily for about 12 years, until 1992,” he recounts. He centre in India. Despite the cacophony from all the honking had taken care of the daily’s last page, their advertisements, and speeding vehicles on the street, the boys and girls and titles and at times the middle page. As Urdu was inside the centre are bent over their papers, engrossed in handwritten at the time, printers worked closely with the pen strokes they have just learnt. A master calligrapher, calligraphers. “Around 15-20 people used to write together Mohammed Abdul Gaffar explains the subtle nuances of the and we shared the work between us. Computeraan aaye tab craft to them, “To master this fine art, you need to grasp the Master caligrapher, Mohammed Abdul Gaffar explains the subtle A Quran written in Naskh and bears Emperor Aurangzeb’s seal nuances of the craft to his students technique of holding a pen at a correct angle and with an A reed or bamboo pen (called qalam) was used and the nib’s optimal amount of pressure.” size would depend on the thickness of the strokes required. Abdul Gaffar is concerned about the lack of encouragement Reeds were preferred over metallic tip pens as their flexibility for calligraphy. Since most publications have moved to facilitated greater range of motion and control while writing. computerised printing, these handwriting techniques have The tips were made with a pen-knife and a slit was made in a hard time finding a place in the academic curriculum. the middle to hold enough ink for one letter. A carved wooden A Government Order was issued directing Urdu medium pen was used for larger letters. Mostly black ink was used, schools to teach calligraphy for classes I to X, but this order which was placed in small, waterproof inkwells. Paper was has not been implemented for many years, he says. a preferred medium but other surfaces like textiles, metal, ceramic, ivory, stone, glass and leather “In 2016, a syllabus was created and were popular as well. included in a 300-page combined hand- The Qutb Shahi sultans book for teachers of co-curricular activities were great scholars and Over centuries, many calligraphy styles viz., physical education, music, art, craft were developed into scripts, each khatt and calligraphy. But ironically, calligraphy patrons of art and during (script) having its own distinctive shape has been left out,” he laments. their regime, large number and characteristic. These scripts were After learning calligraphy at this institute, of religious scholars, created for specific purposes; some were Abdul Gaffar is now their chief instructor used to write the Quran, while others and a visiting faculty at the Nizam’s poets, calligraphers and were used for official documents and Educational Trust, Maulana Azad National architects migrated from larger scripts were used as adornments Urdu University among others as well. in architecture. He has also participated in several Iran to Golconda exhibitions and received awards for his While calligraphy came to India in the calligraphic compositions. 12th century through Muslim invasions, it was only during the Qutb Shahi rule that Hyderabad began its association with Urdu calligraphy finds its roots in Islamic calligraphy, when the art-form. At several museums across the city, handwritten the words of the holy book of Quran were first written, and revered. Abdul Gaffar explains, “To quote from the Quran, copies of the Quran written in calligraphy style are on display. ‘allama bil qalam’, which means (sacred) knowledge is passed on The ones gifted to the last Nizam are still on display at the through a pen. The written word has taken intricate forms and Nizam Museum in Purani Haveli. patterns, so beautiful that they are also capable of adorning The Qutb Shahi sultans were great scholars and patrons of the facades and interiors of buildings portals, books, epitaphs, art and during their regime, a large number of religious 11 wall hangings etc.” In the Islamic world, calligraphy had scholars, poets, calligraphers and architects migrated from become a medium to decorate as well as convey the wisdom Iran to Golconda. Many monuments built during the Qutb of Islam. Calligraphy also became a signature of Islamic art. Shahi era showcase Islamic calligraphic inscriptions revealing The art of writing the Holy Scriptures acquired a status that the style prevalent during the time. no other form of artistic expression was able to match and the calligrapher’s position in society was one of dignity and Calligraphy has established a profound and spiritual connection honour. The fact that the calligrapher was second only to between art and language. When words are penned with the priest reflected the religious merit that was attributed to greater feeling, they can convey a deeper expression, which writing at the time. computerized fonts can never hope to achieve..