^_ -> OF -^ • ^I^ THE VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS LITERATURE. S€IEm'E,&THE ARTH, HALL'S VOYAGES CAPE mows' EDIKBUROH: PnirrTED fur ARCHniAUIJ roWSTABIJi&C? AlYBHriiST.RDBiTfSWU & C? LOKB ON, 1826. ''t : EXTRACTS J FROM ! A JOURNAL, WRITTEN J ON THE COASTS OF CHILI, PERU, AND MEXICO, IN THE YEARS j 1820, 1821, 1822. ; I BY CAPTAIN BASIL HALL, R.N. F. R. S. j IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. ; ] EDINBURGH ^ PRINTED FOR ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND CO. i AND HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. LONDON. 205??1^0 PREFACE. The following Work contaius literally what the title-page expresses, Extracts from a Journal written at very moment- ous periods, during short professional vi- sits to the principal ports on the western coasts of South America and Mexico, It has no pretensions whatever to be considered as a detailed account of those countries. But, at the present moment, when everything connected with the New World engages so great a share of j)ublic attention, it was thought that a few cha- racteristic sketches, by an eye-witness, of the progress of the revolutions, and of the VOL. IX. a IV PnEFACE. state of Bociety, domestic and political, in regions so little known, might be favoura- bly received ; as tending to give more cor- rect ideas respecting them than have hi- therto prevailed. From various nautical and scientific re- searches, which have already appeared in the Philosophical Transactions, or formed the subject of official reports to the Admi- ralty, a short Memoir on the Navigation of those seas has been selected, and added in an Appendix. Edinburgh, April 1, 1824. ADVERTISEMENT TO THE FIFTH EDITION. Various changes in arrangement, which it is needless to enumerate, as well as con- siderable additions, have been made to the successive editions of this work. An attempt was made to bring down the history of the interesting countries treated of, to the present day; but it was soon dis- covered that this could only be done with effect by an eye-witness, and the original plan of stating only what was actually seen, or could be well authenticated on the spot, has been adhered to. Edinburgh, ^\st December, 1826, — CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE. CHILI. Passage of Cape Horn—Volcano—Arrival at Valpa- ^ raiso—Bull Fights— Chilian Music and Dances Visit to Santiago, the Capital of Chili—Effect of the Political Changes on Public Opinion, ... 3 CHAPTER II. Communication betwerti Santiago and Buenos Ayres —Duties of Naval Officers on the South American Station—Arrival of Two French Ships of War Pic-nic Party—Departure from Valparaiso, . 29 CHAPTER HI. Notice of the Revolutions in Chili— General San Martin—Battle of Chacabuco—General O'Hig- giiis— Battles of Talca and Maypo— Arrival of Lord Cochrane, who takes Valdivia—Expedition against Peru—Capture of the Esmeralda, . 43 CHAPTER IV. PERU. First Visit to Lima, while Peru was still in posses- sion of the Spaniards— Contrast between Peru and Chili — Deposition of the Viceroy—Visit to the Ex- Viceroy, Pezucia, 97 — VIU CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PAGE. Bull Fights at Lima—Marquis of Montemira—Ex- Inquisitor—Manners and Uress of Limcnian La- dies— Distressed State of Lima, in consequence of the War—Dissension in the City, 8G CHAPTER VL Two Officers of the Conway arrested as Spies—Con- sequent Ferments at Lima and Callao—Sangui- nary Blobs — Military Commission — Sketch of Lima—Smoking in the Theatre 98 CHAPTER Vn. CHILI. Excursion to the Interior—Bridge of Suspension made of Hide Ropes over the River Maypo— Night Scene amongst the Andes—Description of a Cliilian Country-House and Dinner—Ridiculous Vow, 110 CHAPTER Vin. Selection of Cattle—Description of the Lasso used for catching Cattle—Expertness of the Chilians- Country Dances—Promesa against Dancing by a Young Lady !22 CHAPTER IX. South American Method of Killing Cattle—Use of the Lasso and the Luna— Anecdote of some Boys —Method of preparing Jerked Beef,' . .130 CHAPTER X. Visit to the Lake of Acul^o amongst the Andes Return towards Santiago — Chilian Flower Gar- den, with the Flowers planted in the form of Birds and Beasts—Unceremonious Habits of Tra- vellers in Chili —Effects of the setting Sun in the Ande?, 139 — CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER Xr. PAGE. Matrimonial Anecdote—Remarks on the Study of the Spanish Language— Visit to a Water- Fall near Santiago— Singular Plain amongst the Andes Progress of Education, and Decay of Bigotry in Chili—Ignorance of a Sj)anish Lady— Spanish and Native Prejudices—Comet of 1821 —Experiments with the Pendulum—State of Political Feeling in Chili, 145 CHAPTER XIL Coasting Voyage—Melancholy Effects of the War at Arica—Desolation of the Town—Description of the Sandy Desart— Fallacy respecting Mines, . 160 CHAPTER XIIL Appearance of the Andes—The Peruvian Balsa or Canoe made of Seal Skins —Volcano of Arequipa, 168 CHAPTER XIV. Progress of the Campaign in Peru—Attempts at Ac- commodation—Revolutionaiy Opinions dissemi- nated through the Country—Policy of San Mar- tin—Interview with that General in Callao Roads, 176 CHAPTER XV. Consternation of the Inhabitants of Lima on being abandoned by the Spanish Troops—Panic and Flight to Callao—Meeting of the Public Authori- ties—Invitation sent to San Martin—Wise and Generous Reply—Restoration of tranquillity, . 184 CHAPTER XVL Interview with San Martin— Traits of his Private Character— Robbers near Lima— Guerilla Ciiicf —Precaution used to preserve the peace in the Capital — Adventure of a Spanish Viceroy with p Peruvian Aspasia, 194 — X CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. PAGE. Entry of General San Martin into Lima—His re- ception by the People— Characteristic Scenes at the Marquis of Montemira's, 202 CHAPTER XVin. San Martin's Head- Quarters—The Conway pro- ceeds to Ancon Harbour—Journey to Lima across a Sandy Desart—The Valley of Lima Outposts occupied by Montoneros or Guerilla troops—Embarrassment of the Royalists—Pro- clamation of Independence—Tapadas at the Ball in the Palace, 207 CHAPTER XIX. Huacho—Huaura— Grecian and Gothic Forms of Architecture observed in the Peruvian houses- Architectural Theories—Irrigation— Chorillos, 218 CHAPTER XX. Return to Lima— San Martin assumes the title of Protector—Proclamation declaratory of his Views —Proceedings against the Spaniards—Their dis- agreeable Pivdicament in Lima— State of Society, 223 CHAPTER XXL SPANISH COLONIAL SYSTEM BEFORE THE REVOLUTION. Exclusion of the Natives from Situations of Trust and Profit—I>awsofthe Indies—Discouragement of Science, I/*^Uers, Agriculture, and Commerce- Rigorous Measures against Foreigners—Suppres- sion of Colleges and Schools—Oppressive Taxes and Imprisonments, 301 —— CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XXII. Commercial System— Ordinance against the Hospi- table Reception of Strangers—Coast Blockade Contraband Laws—Influence of the Catholic Re- ligion— Benefits conferred upon the New World by the Spaniards, 247 CHAPTER XXIII. CHILI. Anxiety for the fate of Fish, a seaman of the Con- way—Cruise to the South Coast of Chili, to in- quire into the proceedings of Benavides, the Pi- rate—History of Benavides—His Condemnation and Recovery after having been supposed to be Shot—Declared Chief of the Araucanians—His Piracies against English and North Americans Project for conquering Chili—Equipment of his Army and Fleet—Energetic Character of this Ruf- fian, 259 CHAPTER XXIV. The Bay of Conception—Talcuhuana—Desolation caused by the War—River Biobio—Dilapidated State of the Town of Conception—Pence— Strata of Coal—Torne—Character of the Inhabitants of the Southern parts of Chili, 271 CHAPTER XXV Defeat of Benavides—Island of Mocha—Arauco, the Capital, burned— Sack of the City, by the Chilian Soldiers—Peneleo, Captain of a party of Araucaunian Mercenaries— Return to Concep- tion —Visit to the Indian Quarters— Interview with Peneleo— Return to Valparaiso— Cliilian Government— Gazette respecting Benavides, . 285 «11 CONTENTS. CilAPTER XXXVI. PA&Z. Excursion to the Mining Districts of Chili—Co- quimbo— Parallel Roads in the Valley of Coquim- bo—Theory in Explanation of these Appearances, SO* EXTRACTS A JOURNAL V/RITTEX ON THE COASTS OF CHILI, PERU, AND MEXICO, IN THE YEAKS 1820, 1821, 1822. BY CAPTAIN BASIL HALL, KOYAL NAVY. VOL. IL EXTRACTS FROM A JOURNAL. CHAPTER I. CHILI. PASSAGE OF CAPE HORN VOLCANO — . lUlIVAL AT A'-AI.PARAISO—'BULL FIGHTS CHILIAN MUSIC AND DANCES VISIT TO SANTIAGO, THE CAPITAL OF CHILI EFFECT OF THE POLITICAL CHANGES ON PUBLIC OPINION. His Majesty's ship-Conway, under my command, sailed from England on the 10th of August 1820 ; and having touched at Teneriffe, Rio de Janeiro, and the River Plate, received orders to proceed to Valparaiso, the principal sea-port on the coast of Chili. The passage round Cape Horn has acquired such celebrity in nautical histoiy, from the difficultie:? encountered by Anson, that no one, acquainted with the popular narrative of liis voyage, can ap- ]>roach the spot without some degree of interest. The progre.'^ of impiovenient in navigation and ; 4 PASSAGE OF seamanship has, indeed, stripped the Cape of mo«t of its terrors; and the passage, whicli formerly cost so much labom- and suffering, is now perform- <'(l with comparative ease and certainty. But there is still left enough of romance about this great promontory to excite no inconsiderable curi- osity : and, accordingly, on the evening of the 25th <)f November, all eyes were anxiously directed to- wards the west, in which quarter the Cape was situated. Several gi'oups of the more curious amongst the officers were perched at the mast-heads, witli telescopes and sketch-books in their hands, ready to take advantage of the first glimpse of the land. Others, whose energy did not equal their cu- riosity, mounted a few steps of the rigging, and came down again ; saying they would see it quite as well in the morning without trouble.