111 351 mflia^^ Kansas tEtty fithltr ICttorarg , This Volume is for REFERENCE USE ONLY VENICE ON FOOT I'ONTE DEI PUCJW, AND THE CAMPANILE OK S. MARIA DEL CARMINE FROM I'ONTE S. IJAKNAUA CONTENTS CHAPTER PAflE "I. NOTE TO THE READER i II. DIVISION OF THE CITY 8 III. PIAMA DI S. MARCO 12 IV. THE WALKS 22 V. WALK i 24 VI. WALK 2 51 VII. WALK 3 83 VIII. WALK SA 102 IX. WALK 4 122 X. WALK 5 144 XL WALK 6 169 XII. WALK 7 193 XIII, WALK 8 319 XIV. WALK 9 241 XV. WALK 10 .257 XVI. THE GRAND CANAL 272 XVII. DIRECT ROUTES .334 XVIII. NOBLE FAMILIES 343 . XIX. GENERAL NOTES 366 INDEX OF LOCALITIES 387 INDEX OF NAMES 415 vifi VENICE ON FOOT FACING PAGE CHURCH OF S. ZACCARIA 122 CAMPIELLO S. GAETANO 122 CHURCH OF S. Moisft 122 PALAZZO WIDMAN FROM PONTE DEL PIOVAN . 132 SCUOLA DI S. FANTINO (ATENEO VENETO) . .132 PALAZZO BENEDETTI, FROM PONTE PRIULI . 153 PALAZZO BEMBO 153 DOOR OF PALAZZO VAN AXEL 153 A BRIDGE WITHOUT A PARAPET 153 PALAZZO PESARO-PAPAFAVA 160 WELL IN THE GARDEN OF PALAZZO CONTARINI . 160 CAMPO S. MARIA FORMOSA, PALAZZO RUZZINI-PRIULI TO PALAZZI DON! 160 CHURCH OF S. MARIA DELLA SALUTE .... 169 PALAZZO MARCELLO .173 CASA MORO (PONTE LUNGO) 173 PALAZZO ARIANI 177 PALAZZO RIZZI 177 S. No. 2931 CAMPO MARGARITA (Cl CORNER) . 185 PALAZZO FOSCARINI (S. MARIA DEL CARMINE) . 185 DELL* CASA ANGELO FROM PONTE DELL' ANGELO . 194 PALAZZO SAGREDO 194 A QUIET CORNER (FONDAMENTA DEL RIMEDIO) . 194 CASINO DEGLI SPIRITI 202 FRUIT STALL (SALIZZADA S. FRANCESCO) . .202 PALAZZO PESARO (ORFEI) 232 PALAZZO PRIULI (S. FELICE) 232 FONDAMENTA CANNAREGIO (OPPOSITE PALAZZO MAN- FRIN) 238 PALAZZO DUODO (S. ANGELO) 238 CAMPO S. MAURIZIO, PALAZZO MOLIN .... 249 S. CAMPO POLO, PALAZZO SORANZO, PALAZZO TIEPOLO 249 FROM PONTE DELLA VERONA, PALAZZO MORA, PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO 254 CAMPIELLO WITH BACK OF BARBARO, PALAZZO DARIO . 258 CAMPO S. Vio, PALAZZO LOREDAN, PALAZZO BARBARO 260 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ix FACING PAGE SQUERO, AND CHURCH OP S. TROVASO (FROM PONTE LUNGO) 262 CLOISTERS OF S. STEFANO, WITH REMAINS OF FRES- COES BY PORDENONE 262 CAVALLI BARBARO PALAZZI AND 278 PALAZZO LOREDAN . (DELL' AMBASCIATORE) . .278 PALAZZO A CORNER OF THE BARBARO, GRAND SALON . 279 PALAZZI REZZONICO, GIUSTINIAN, AND FOSCARI . 281 PALAZZI MICHIEL DALLE COLONNE AND MICHIEL DA BRUSA 293 PALAZZI MIANI-COLETTI AND CA D'ORO . 293 CANNAREOIO (CHURCH OF S. GEREMIA, PALAZZO LABL\) 300 AND . PALAZZI COCCINA-TIEPOLO BUSINELLO . 300 FROM THE STEAMER STATION "S. ANGELO" (PALAZZO FOSCARI TO PALAZZO TIEPOLO) .... 300 CHURCH OF S. MARCUOLA 300 END OF GRAND CANAL (STEAMER STATION S. CHIARA) 304 PALAZZI BARZIZZA AND AVOGADRO . .316 PALAZZI REZZONICO, BERNARDO, GIUSTINIAN AND FO- SCARI 316 PALAZZI CAPELLO AND GRIMANI 318 PALAZZI TIEPOLO, PISANI-MORETTA AND BARBARIGO DELLA TERRAZZA 319 MAP OF WALK i 50 ,,2 82 WALKS 3 AND 3A 120 ,, WALK 4 142 .> 5 * 68 6 192 7 218 8 240 9 256 10 270 THE GRAND CANAL 332 VENICE ON FOOT CHAPTER I NOTE TO THE READER number of those who walk in Venice is in- THEcreasing every year; and in the case of my tried own friends who have it, I have always found them so enthusiastic, and so anxious to see more of the less visited parts of the city, and the street life of the people, that feeling that this might also apply to others, I have thought it worth while to arrange a few walks, which, while including several points of interest not generally seen from a gondola, might, moreover, be of assistance in finding such places as the reader may wish to visit. The book is not in any way a guide to interiors of buildings, nor is it intended to compete with the now extant its to excellent guide-books ; object being assist those who wish to walk, and to answer such questions, as would probably be asked, when doing so for the first time. During the walks all the churches at present in use and (with a very few exceptions), the sites of the over are demolished ones are passed ; 500 palaces seen, the names of which are given, and a few words said about most of them; the ancient "scuole," or guild- halls, with their oratories, the sites of the theatres, and in several interesting tablets, etc,, all come for a share 2 VENICE ON FOOT to a number of of attention ; not mention large streets, in squares, bridges, etc., the names of which, many instances, reflect the manners, customs and history of the people. Of course it has been impossible to include every- to thing, the idea, from the beginning, having been take that im- things as they come. I trust, however, no portant omission has been made. The duration of each walk, with a moderate amount of stopping, should be about two hours. It was not thought advisable to make them shorter, as this could only be done by increasing the number, with the result that the book would only be of use to those making a prolonged stay in Venice. Several modes, however, are indicated by which they may be shortened if required. Owing to the large amount of material in the book the remarks are necessarily curt. The points princi- pally touched on are, in the case of the churches, palaces, etc., the date of foundation, the name of the founder and architect, and any interesting incident connected with them that may throw light on the former history of the people. In the case of the palaces, the names of the former occupants have been given where pos- sible, and mention made of any particularly famous man that lived there. The general historical notices of the families are, however, collected under the head " " of Families at pp. 343 to 365. A few historical notices, too long to include in the " " walks, will be found under the head of Notes at pp. 366 to 386. As the walks mostly commence at Piazza di S. Marco, where the visitor will probably pass a good deal of his time, a chapter has been devoted to such points connected with it as are not to be found in the usual guide-books. A special chapter has been devoted to descriptions NOTE TO THE READER 3 of the palaces on the Grand Canal, the land entrances to most of which are passed during the walks. A complete plan, including every building, is given, and this should be found most useful when passing up or down in a gondola. Many of the Venetian palaces are, so to speak, baptised with the name of some famous family that others are once occupied them ; known by two or more names, very often including that of the present owner or occupier, and a few by the latter name only. The best-known name has in most cases been adopted, and a few of the palaces, included now for the first time, that have no traditional names, are indicated by the street numbers alone. The spelling of the names of the ancient families varies a good deal according to the epoch, especially as to the doubling of the consonants. It is not un- usual to find the same name spelt in two different ways on the same page. This has been arranged as far as possible, preference being given to the old spelling; the Christian names are almost invariably given in the ancient form. The names of the streets, etc., are for the most part given as they are at present, so that they may be easily recognised. These names, however, which are very frequently repainted, often reappear with variations, and some of them end in losing their significance altogether. Dr. Tassini gives an instance when men- tioning Campo dalle Gatte (p. 32). He relates that in the i$th century some papal legates lived near this campo, which, on that account, was called Campo dei Legati (of the legates). Later on it was written Campo Delegati, and after going through other changes it has- now become Campo dalle (or delle) 1 Gatte (cats). 1 A document "discovered by Commendatore Cecchetti, after the above was written by Dr. Tassini, proves that, in 1365 this 4 VENICE ON FOOT When mentioning the names of streets, churches, countries, etc., sometimes the Italian name has been used and sometimes the English, the one that seems most suitable or euphonious being selected in each case. Most towns change somewhat in the course of a year or so, and just now several alterations are pro- posed, or already in progress, in Venice, with a view to making more open spaces, and so giving more air to the population living in the dark "calli" and courts. This is certainly not to be regretted; and if these changes alter in any way the sequence of the streets, as here given, it will only be for two or three numbers which can easily be corrected; it is not probable, however, that this will occur where there are any pro- minent palaces or other points of interest. (The first change will probably take place between Nos. 28 and 36, Walk 2, where the streets at present are very narrow.) Except in one or two instances of direct quotation, I have not considered this little work of sufficient importance to make it necessary to give special refer- ences to works consulted. Nearly all the statements, however, have been verified two or three times over from different books. Among those consulted are Francesco Sansovino's Venetia (1581), and the ad- ditions thereto and by Stringa Martinioni ; Coronelli's guide-book and Palazzl; Graevius' Thesaurus Itali- carum Scriptores ; and the more modern works by Galliccioli, Cicogna, Selvatico, Zanotto, Temanza, Filiasi, Quadri, Molmenti, Tassini and others.