2020 HARVARD ALUMNI TRAVELS DISCOVER • LEARN • CONNECT • EXPLORE KUMANO KODO The Sacred Sites & Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountains of Japan with Gavin H. Whitelaw, Executive Director of the Reischauer Institute of Japanese Studies November 6–14, 2020 RUSSIA Pacic Ocean CHINA Kumano path, photo courtesy of JNTO (above); map of the region (below right). Front cover: Nachi Taisha Shrine Pagoda and waterfall, photo © Study Leader Sean Pavone / Alamy Stock Photo. Back cover: Pilgrim on the Kumano Kodo, photo courtesy of JNTO Gavin H. Whitelaw is the Executive Director of the Delve into the prehistoric roots of Japanese culture, Reischauer Institute retracing the footsteps of ancient royalty on a serene, once-in- of Japanese a-lifetime journey along cedar-shaded, cobblestone trails. From Studies at Harvard as early as the 11th century, imperials, aristocrats, and samurai University, one from Kyoto followed pilgrimage routes deep into the dense of the oldest centers in the world forests of Japan’s Kii Mountains, passing bubbling streams, hot supporting research activities springs, and waterfalls to worship at magnificent shrines, tem- concerning Japan and Japanese Teshima Studies. Gavin has spent nearly a ples, and oji (enshrined natural landmarks). These six footpaths, quarter of his life living and working in collectively known as the Kumano Kodo, reflected the fusion of Japan, initially as an English teacher Japan’s native Shinto religion, with its veneration of nature, and in rural Yamagata. Prior to coming to Buddhism, which arrived from China in the 6th century. Harvard, he was a tenured professor Alongside the Camino de Santiago in Spain, the Kumano Kodo of Sociocultural Anthropology at International Christian University is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage-recognized pilgrim- (ICU) in Tokyo for eight years, and age routes. Yet, unlike its European sibling, these paths remain he served as Director of ICU’s Japan underexplored by international visitors. With Japan’s autumn Studies Program. His research has leaves in dazzling gold and crimson, journey from Osaka to been published in the Anthropology the sacred mountain retreat of Koyasan by train and funicular, of Work Review, Contemporary Japan, admiring ornate temples and a Buddhist cemetery amid a and Gastronomica. In 2013, he curated stunning ancient forest. an exhibit on the material world of Japan’s convenience stores for ICU’s After a night’s stay in a Shukubo (Buddhist temple lodging), Yuasa Memorial Museum. Gavin is embark on carefully selected Kumano Kodo walks over two a graduate of Wesleyan University, days to the three sacred Kumano Sanzan shrines, breathtaking has an MA in East Asian Studies from in their color and majesty. Indulge in meticulously prepared Harvard and received his PhD in Japanese delicacies, and pause for a rest overnight at an Sociocultural Anthropology from onsen. Complete your pilgrimage in Ise's Grand Shrine, the Yale University. most significant Shinto site in Japan. Transfer for two nights in the ancient capital of Kyoto. Sea of Activity Level 3: Japan WHAT TO EXPECT JAPAN This is a moderately active to active program. Travelers who embark on the Ise Kumano Kodo pilgrimage should be in good fitness with regular exercise in advance of the tour. If you opt to traverse these rugged, mountainous paths, Kyoto expect one to three miles each day of walking along trails with steep ascents and descents, loose and slippery cobblestones, exposed tree roots, and Osaka Nara stone staircases to the shrines. Well-worn hiking boots with adequate ankle Koya-san support are a must. Daytime temperatures range in the 50s with possible Shingu rain showers, so please bring a jacket or fleece and raingear. Hongu Nachi-san TO BOOK A TRIP, CALL 800-422-1636 OR VISIT ALUMNI.HARVARD.EDU/TRAVEL Yellow Sea Schedule by Day B=Breakfast, L= Lunch, R=Reception, D=Dinner FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6 Departure Depart on an overnight flight to Osaka, Japan. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 7 Osaka Arrive at Kansai International Airport in Osaka and transfer to your hotel. Later, gather for your welcome reception and dinner. R,D Torii shrine gate at the entrance to Oyunohara, photo © Gonzalo Azumendi / Alamy SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 8 Osaka MONDAY, NOVEMBER 9 TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 10 Osaka, Japan’s second largest Osaka / Koyasan Kumano Kodo World city, is the traditional starting Transfer to the Osaka train Heritage Sites – Kumano point of the Kumano Kodo. In station to board the scenic Honghu Taisha / the 10th century, pilgrims from Nankai Limited Express to Kyoto sailed down the Yodo Gokurakubashi Station, Hongucho Kawayu River to begin their pilgrimage then take a 15-minute cable Travel to the Kumano Kodo from Osaka. Tour the city’s key car ride up the mountain to Kan Pilgrimage Center for an historical and cultural sites, Koyasan, one of the most introduction and overview of beginning on the grounds of sacred places in Japan and a the Kumano Kodo. After lunch, the 16th-century Osaka Castle, UNESCO World Heritage Site. continue along the UNESCO- which played a major role in This site was first settled in listed Kumano Kodo Nakahechi the unification of Japan during the 9th century as a spiritual sections of the trail to the that period. Nearby, view the retreat from the courtly Sangenjaya Teahouse ruins starting point marker of the intrigues of Kyoto. The town near Hongu. Your first hour- Kumano Kodo, followed by a of Koyasan features a university long walk of nearly two miles demonstration of the art of dedicated to religious studies will take you through cedar Japanese knife making. Lunch and over 100 temples, many forests, ending at the Kumano will feature local specialties like offering lodging to pilgrims Hongu Taisha, the first of the okonomiyaki, a crepe filled with and travelers. More than half of three “Kumano Sanzan” meat and seafood and cooked Koyasan’s permanent residents sacred shrines of the Kumano on an iron hot plate in front of are Buddhist monks. In the Kodo pilgrimage. Ascend the the customer. Then discover afternoon, tour the Koyasan stone staircase to discover the modern Chikatsu Asuka Reihokan Museum, the Danjo this gorgeous vista, which Historical Museum, designed by Garan Temple Complex, and includes imposing cedars and architect Tadao Ando. Housing Okunoin, a Buddhist cemetery wooden pavilions with steeply 4th- to 7th-century artifacts in a sacred ancient forest. sloped roofs adorned with excavated from nearby burial Okunoin is the final resting bronze ornaments. Behold mounds, the museum is a place of Kukai, the monk who the world’s largest Torii shrine wonderful example of Andao’s founded Koyasan, as well as gate, which weighs 172 tons ability to harmonize and over 200,000 Buddhist monks and is made of steel. Return integrate his designs into the and followers. In the late to your hotel in the late surrounding landscapes. End afternoon, check in to your afternoon, with time to relax the day with a tour of a well- Shukubo, a temple that offers and perhaps enjoy a bath in known sake brewery, followed lodging to pilgrims, and enjoy the hotel onsen (hot spring) by dinner at a Michelin-starred a traditional Buddhist-inspired or in the naturally heated pools restaurant. B,L,D vegetarian dinner. B,L,D of the Kawayu River. B,L,D FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT ALUMNI.HARVARD.EDU/TRAVEL WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 11 the end of the Kumano Kodo FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13 Kumano Kodo World and home to the Grand Shrine Kyoto of Ise. Dine at a Teppanyaki Heritage Sites – Kumano In the morning, take part in (flattop grill) restaurant and an exclusive tea ceremony. Hayatama Taisha & enjoy the local specialty, Then discover the magnificent Kumano Nachi Taisha / Matsusaka Wagyu beef. B,L,D Sanjusangen-do, a temple Ise constructed in 1164. It is known THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 12 for its Hall of Thirty-Three Visit the seaside city of Shingu Ise / Kyoto to tour the Kumano Hayatama Bays, a long wooden structure Taisha, the second of the Tour the highlights of Ise, housing 1,001 large wooden Kumano Kodo Sanzan shrines, including the Ise Jingu (known statues of Kannon, the Goddess found along the Kumano as the Grand Shrine), the of Mercy. In the afternoon, River. Marvel at its brilliant most important Shinto site in tour the sites of Kyoto’s vermillion façade. The site is Japan. The site consists of an Higashiyama historic district, also home to an 800-year-old inner and outer shrine, which stroll the Path of Philosophy, conifer tree, which is deemed are set just under four miles and visit a delightful crafts sacred. Continue to Daimon apart from each other. The museum before ending Zaka, to begin a one-hour walk Grand Shrine is purportedly the day with an exclusive to Kumano Nachi Taisha (the the home of the Sacred Geisha experience. This final of the three shrines), Mirror and was dedicated evening, toast a memorable perched on Mount Nachi with to the Shinto sun goddess trip at a traditional Kaiseki temples painted in vivid red. Amaterasu. The shrines are farewell dinner. B,L,D Then take a short, 15-minute rebuilt every 20 years, a walk to the splendid Nachi no custom dating back to the SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 14 Otaki waterfall. Lunch is at Kii 7th century as a manifestation Kyoto / Return Katsuura, home to the largest of Shinto’s main tenet of From Kyoto, transfer to tuna market in Japan and purity, but also a means of Kansai International Airport featuring fresh Maguro sushi keeping ancient building for flights home. B and sashimi. Following lunch, techniques alive. In the admire Japan’s spectacular fall afternoon, transfer to Kyoto foliage on the two-and-a-half for a two-night stay.