TIBET PILGRIMAGE To TIBET y Ven. Sarah Thresher SOMEHOW, THIS TRIP TO TIBET "JUST wear their robes. Only the Nepali monks — Rinpoche, HAPPENED." Several hundred people originally Geshe Sherab, and two monk attendants — were signed up for a pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash with Lama allowed to actually be monks. I will never forget, as Zopa Rinpoche. This changed to a long-life retreat at we crossed over Friendship Bridge into Tibet on a Maratika Cave, Nepal (which was scrapped due to group visa, filing slowly past Rinpoche and the other Maoist activity,) and became a Mahamudra retreat at monks who waited to see if they would be allowed Lapchi, where Milarepa meditated. Finally, due to into the country. Somehow Rinpoche made himself snow-bound passes, sixty people, who gathered from invisible, the passports were stamped and this dream around the world for a final briefing in Kathmandu in of a pilgrimage began. May, discovered they were now heading for a pil- Later that night, booked into Chinese hotels on grimage around Central Tibet. the border, Rinpoche began the trip in earnest with a Two days later we bundled onto buses headed for teaching on how to do Vajrasattva purification in the the border of Nepal and Tibet disguised as tourists on restaurant. The staff were enthralled — and I realized a camping trip. Western sangha were not allowed to that Rinpoche was not going to be low-key on this trip. PAGE 10 MANDALA • DECEMBER 2002 - FEBRUARY 2003 TIBET Top to Bottom: The group, led by Lama Zopa, prostrates to the Tsipri mountain range — practice place of chiid yogi Padampa Sangye, Milarepa and others ris Rinpoche takes a break from teaching in Milarepa's 'Sheep Stomach cave Rinpoche teaches in Old Tingri 6 5 I' .5- • THE NEXT DAY WE DROVE THROUGH TO NYALAM [approx 4,600 metres/15,000 feet] where there is a famous Milarepa cave. We arrived late afternoon and as our Sherpas were pitching the tents, we visited the cave, which has a small gompa attached. Rinpoche had been there twice before F and the monk in charge had in fact made a guru-disciple connection with ce him on a previous trip. Rinpoche began explaining how to 0- get the greatest benefit from holy objects when you visit a temple. We did prostrations, made offerings and prayed while taking blessing from the scriptures, statues and so forth. This e was to become a familiar procedure. On that whole trip I never saw Rinpoche pass by a holy object without making prostra- tions, offerings, prayers and extensive dedications, and we tried to do the same. When we arrived in Milarepa's cave Rinpoche advised us to pray strongly to actualize guru devotion as Milarepa did, to Later that day we drove over Lalung-la Pass [4910in/16,000ft] be able to sacrifice even one's life to obtain the guru's advice to Tingri. By now most of the pilgrims were suffering from altitude and to bear great hardships to accomplish it. It was very pow- sickness. Already one had been evacuated and that night a deci- erful. We returned to the cave the next morning to receive sion was made to stay over for a day at Tingri to give time to Milarepa initiation from Rinpoche along with a very moving evacuate several more. motivation based on Pabongka Rinpoche's Calling the Guru The campsite was in a valley surrounded by mountains and from Afar. Rinpoche seemed to enjoy it very much and the beauty of Tibet was overwhelming. Around were herds of thanked us for giving him the opportunity to give the initia- yaks, goats and sheep. Rinpoche wrote mantras in gold on one tion in such a holy place! goat's horns and told us to chant mantras loudly for the animals Outside the cave at Nyalam we met a young boy whose — mainly Maitreya and Medicine Buddha mantras. Meanwhile, body was hideously deformed by a skin disease. He was beg- Rinpoche sat outside his tent meeting with local people who ging and explained to Rinpoche that he was born normal and began arriving to seek his help and doing pujas to clear away the had become like this due to disturbing local nagas. Rinpoche obstacles to the trip. Later that afternoon Rinpoche explained did prayers and told us all to do tong- len — imagining taking on that in his two previous trips to Tibet nobody had experienced his suffering. Many villagers gathered asking for Rinpoche's such obstacles from altitude sickness. He gave a talk on how to blessing, especially to blow mantras on them to cure their eye use all the difficulties we experienced on the pilgrimage to purify diseases. This was to become another familiar scene through- and accumulate merit. "Pilgrimage," Rinpoche explained, "is to out Tibet, and Rinpoche explained that this has come about subdue one's own mind; to use every opportunity to do the most due to mental and physical pollution in the country in the extensive purification and to accumulate the most extensive past decades, particularly because of the destruction of so merit so that we can have the realizations of the path." many holy objects and due to smoking cigarettes, which dis- Rinpoche told us to keep our minds constantly in Lam-Rim, use turbs the local spirits. our speech to recite mantras and prayers and then the body MANDALA • DECEMBER 2002 - FEBRUARY 2003 PAGE 11 TIBET I never saw Rinpoche pass by a holy object without making prostrations, offerings, prayers and extensive dedications, bears hardships traveling long hours on the bus, walking, pros- sign of the Dharma or practitioners as we passed through crum- trating, etc. From that talk onwards the mood of the group bling Tibetan villages and modem Chinese settlements? changed — we were no longer tourists having a hard time, but pilgrims using every hardship to purify our minds. BUT THE GREATEST SURPRISES WERE YET TO COME Tmgri is a very holy place and nearby is Tsipri Mountain — Shigatse and later Lhasa. In 1987, Shigatse had seemed a where Milarepa, Padampa Sangye and other great practitioners thriving Tibetan market town and Tashi Lhunpo, which had stayed. It is said to be a Heruka holy place like Mt Kailash. escaped destruction, seemed to be functioning with little inter- Rinpoche invited one of the old villagers of Tsipri to come and talk ference due to the status of the Panchen Lama, who was then to us. The next day before we left camp we lined up in the main still alive. But now Shigatse is bustling and modem, complete road behind Rinpoche making full-length prostrations towards the with all the trappings of city life — taxi cabs, shiny tiled banks mountain — much to the amazement of passing trucks! and hotels, malls, highways, gas stations, rows and rows of There followed a long drive to Shigatse and Tashi Lhunpo square concrete Chinese shops and nightclubs with prostitutes. Monastery, seat of the Panchen Lamas. I had not trav- And Tashi Lhunpo, though still magnificent and outwardly eled this route since my first trip to Tibet with looking like a functioning monastery, has an underlying aura of Rinpoche, Geshe Lama Konchog and a party of about fear and control that was to become very familiar. It was a seventy pilgrims in 1987. Those days sangha could shock to discover that holy places are now run as museums and wear robes, we could practice openly, Rinpoche could sightseeing places for tourists with entrance fees and exorbitant teach and meet with the locals and there was relative charges for using a camera or video. We walked into a prayer freedom. I remember that wherever we went people session at Tashi Lhunpo, which seemed impressive enough — only would flock to us, begging for photos or His Holiness to be told that straight after the prayers monks were obliged to and crying as they told their stories and asked for attend regular lengthy re-education sessions on Chinese policy blessings. This doesn't happen any more. and so forth. I also remember that fifteen years ago, as we drove from the Still, at Tashi Lhunpo we were allowed to conduct a private border to Lhasa, the whole route was dotted with ruins of Maitreya puja in the temple of the largest Maitreya statue that monasteries, nunneries and other holy places — old Tibet had at exists so far. As Ven. Marcel led the lay people reciting prayers least 6,000 monasteries and nunneries, all but a handful of in English at Maitreya's feet, Rinpoche and a handful of sangha which were completely destroyed. Now these ruins have crum- were permitted to climb up perilous old hand-carved stairs to a bled back into the earth. I was saddened to see how empty this balcony overlooking the blissful face of Maitreya and there the country had become. How could this be Tibet and yet hardly a puja was beautifully chanted in Tibetan. We gave donations for the monks and to make butter lamp Rinpoche, Geshe Sherab, Lhundrup and Jinpa in front of Tashi Lhunpo's enormous seated statue of Maitreya offerings and then made our way to make offerings to the oldest, Photos Val. Roger Kunsan° most precious statues of the monastery. We passed through a courtyard painted all around with the Thousand Buddhas of this Fortunate Aeon, each buddha exquisitely represented with a verse below expressing how enlightenment was achieved. Rinpoche told Ven. Marcel he wanted the same thing for the Maitreya Buddha statue, and he led us in prostrating and making offerings to these buddhas — thinking of all of them as insepara- 41: ble from the guru.