Council of Fashion Designers of America Annual Report 2015 The mission DIANE VON of the Council of FURSTENBERG AND STEVEN KOLB Fashion Designers Letter from the Chairman, Diane von Furstenberg, of America ıs to and the President and Chief Executive Officer, Steven Kolb strengthen the ashion is about family. The Council of Fashion Designers of America has become the perfect embodiment of that statement. In over five decades, we have cultivated a sense of community among leading American designers, where kinship supersedes competition and the ultimate goal is impact of American to strengthen the impact of American fashion in the global economy—which is also the mission statement of the CFDA. This year marked a major milestone for the CFDA. With the addition of 40 new designers to our membership, we broke through the 500 barrier. The continued growth is not fashion in the just a testament to the immense fashion talent in America, but also a worldwide recognition that the CFDA is a top organization devoted to helping its designer constituency at every stage of their careers. In 2015, we expanded this community to further propel the mission. Each CFDA department—Strategic Partnerships Group, Philanthropy, Education & Professional global economy. FDevelopment, Editorial & Communications among them—was tasked to assemble special committees composed of executives from all fields. These don’t have to be CFDA Members. The goal is to bring a wider perspective and a new level of expertise to the conversation, which is especially useful as the CFDA grows with several new initiatives. In 2015, these included the integration of the Fashion Calendar into the CFDA, the launch of eyewear, jewelry, and manufacturing showcases, and the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which galvanized the industry’s top talent to strengthen American menswear. It was a big success, and, just as importantly, brought this family even closer. 1 2 Membership in the Council of Fashion Designers of America is open to Americans who are designing in the United States or abroad, or international designers whose businesses are based in the United States. Applicants must meet certain criteria and submit a visual presentation of their work, accompanied by a detailed Membership written application and letters of recommendation. The Admissions Committee meets annually to review candidates’ applications before making recommendations to the CFDA’s Board of Directors. An affırmative vote by the Board is required for the acceptance of each new Member. 3 4 Membership The New Members Meet the New Forty FRONT ROW (FROM LEFT): ASHLEY JUNG, PAIGE DELLAVALLE, SCOSHA WOOLRIDGE, TED KIM, FLORIANA GAVRIEL AND RACHEL MANSUR BACK ROW (FROM LEFT): JOHN BREVARD, MICHAEL SAIGER, RAQUEL ALLEGRA, SIKI IM, SALLY LAPOINTE, FRANCESCA AMFITHEATROF, LOUISE CAMUTO, TANYA TAYLOR, ELIZABETH FORTUNATO, PAUL ANDREW, SARA BELTRAN, MISHA NONOO, BRETT HEYMAN, LEIGH BATNICK PLESSNER, RONY VARDI, GIGI BURRIS, JEff PRESS, DANIEL CORRIGAN, RYAN LOBO, NELLIE PARTOW, RAMON MARTIN, BROOKE GARBER NEIDICH, JAKE SARGENT, DAVID HART, MARINA POLO, BRITT COSGROVE, AND KRISTINE JOHANNES 5 6 Membership The New Members ANA KHOURI the creative culture of Brooklyn and is directly with clients and stylists on featuring her signature color blocking, with Press’s creative direction, grown and with internships at Oscar de la ANA KHOURI designed and made in Williamsburg. made-to-order couture pieces before exposed zippers, and geometric seams. throughout the U.S. with collection Renta and Lanvin. Assoulin debuted her Ana Khouri made art from early childhood. The duo pays particular attention to beginning to wholesale her creations in sales increasing exponentially. collection—which blends the romantically The Brazilian native studied sculpture minimalist detailing and hand-set stones 2013. The Florida native favors alligator ELIZABETH FORTUNATO fantastical and reliably practical with in São Paulo. With degrees from the that are small in scale but high in quality. skin, and is also known for intricate LIZZIE FORTUNATO JEWELS NELLIE PARTOW sculpted ease and bold lines—for resort Gemological Institute of America and feather and couture handwork. Duke University alum Elizabeth NELLIE PARTOW 2014. She won the CFDA Swarovski Central Saint Martins, she launched her GUIDO CAMPELLO “Lizzie” Fortunato worked at Paul Nellie Partow’s refined, minimalist Award for Womenswear in 2015. line in 2002. Based in New York City COSABELLA SHAYNE OLIVER Wilmot Communications for a year ready-to-wear can be traced to her since 2012, she focuses on limited-edition The family-owned Italian lingerie HOOD BY AIR before launching her namesake accessories mother’s assured sense of self and style, TED KIM pieces that look to Alexander Calder, company Cosabella is in its second Hood by Air is the convergence of label. Today, Fortunato still makes which define Partow in both her careers RVN Richard Serra, and Louise Bourgeois. generation, with Guido Campello and his an ensemble of artists that, under the every sample by hand and is involved as a competitive champion boxer and Parsons alum Ted Kim worked at Donna A Khouri tenet: bringing fine jewelry into sister Silvia leading the firm. After serving creative direction of Shayne Oliver, in design, production, and branding. fashion designer. The San Francisco State Karan, Michael Kors, and Anne Klein before the twenty-first century for women to wear as Cosabella’s president of branding and operates in fashion, experimental She also authors A Fortune Found, a University and Parsons School of Design launching RVN. The label is based on without the requisite hauteur it once held. innovation, Campello was named CEO in music, image-making, nightlife, and blog chronicling the people, fashion, art, alumna worked at Donna Karan, Calvin the idea of a “ReVolutioN” in contemporary 2014. He directs global strategy for sales performance. Relying on strategies such travels, and moods that inform her work. Klein, and John Varvatos before launching womenswear, and is a lifestyle brand MATT BALdwIN distribution, marketing initiatives, and as appropriation and sampling, Hood by her namesake luxury collection in 2011. that epitomizes the cool, edgy style BALdwIN product development. He also manages all Air’s work subverts traditional divisions FLORIANA GAVRIEL of Manhattan, mainly via jacquard knit Matt Baldwin’s career began at Los exclusive design collaborations, including between original and copy, human & RACHEL MANSUR PAUL ANDREW dresses. Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, Katy Angeles’s Fashion Institute of Design those with Urban Outfitters and J.Crew. and machine, and art and commerce. MANSUR GAVRIEL PAUL ANDREW Perry, Miranda Kerr, and Kate Hudson & Manufacturing. In 2003, he founded Floriana Gavriel studied fashion design The British-born footwear and accessories are among those who have worn RVN. the Standard Style store in Kansas DAVID HART JAKE SARGENT at the University of the Arts Bremen in designer Paul Andrew cultivated his craft City, Missouri, and launched Baldwin DAVID HART JAKE SARGENT Germany, while Rachel Mansur is an with over fifteen years at such houses Denim & Collection in 2009. Cut David Hart studied at the Fashion Jake Sargent took over the creative alumna of RISD. The duo met in Los as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Alexander and sewn in the U.S., the collection Institute of Technology and received direction of Simon Miller in 2011 Angeles in 2010 and developed their brand McQueen, and Narciso Rodriguez. He consists of mens- and womenswear his BFA in fashion design in 2004. While with Daniel Corrigan. Prior to joining concept for two years before launching launched his own collection for spring with functionality, modern design, and designing for Anna Sui, Tommy Hilfiger, Simon Miller, Sargent oversaw the Mansur Gavriel handbags with its signature 2013, combining impeccable materials and American-made goods at its core. and Ralph Lauren, Hart refined his retail and product-collaboration arm Bucket Bag. The designers won the 2015 handmade craftsmanship with ingenuity skills and cultivated his own aesthetic. of Monocle magazine. In early 2016, CFDA Swarovski Award for Accessory and the latest technologies for fit, comfort, FLORIANA In 2009, he launched the David Hart Sargent left Simon Miller to pursue Design, and have since added shoes and and performance. In 2014, Andrew won GAVRIEL & Co. line of luxury ties, bow ties, and other projects in New York City. new bag silhouettes to the collection. the top CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award. AND RACHEL MANSUR pocket squares, followed by his first full menswear collection in 2013. Hart JOHN BREVARD MICHAEL SAIGER RAQUEL ALLEGRA produces all of his clothing and fabrics JOHN BREVARD MIANSAI RAQUEL ALLEGRA in the U.S., Italy, Ireland, and the U.K. John Brevard applies a background in Michael Saiger, who launched his When Raquel Allegra was working in sales architecture and multidisciplinary arts handmade accessories brand with at Barneys New York in Beverly Hills in SARA BELTRAN to his celestial designs with a focus a single bracelet in 2008, is inspired 2002, clients asked her about the vintage DEZSO BY SARA BELTRAN on fine jewelry. Inspired by the principles by childhood memories of beaches and T-shirts she redesigned and wore. This Inspired by her love for the oceanic of natural order, each piece is symbolic other New England traditions, as well propelled the Berkeley, California, native ANA world, Sara Beltran founded Dezso— of the inseparable relationship of the as Blithewold, his mother’s antique to make one-of-a-kind pieces full-time, KHOURI AND “desire” in Latin—in 2006. The F.I.T. part to the whole. Brevard, based in shop. Over the past seven years, Miansai including individually hand-dyed and MISHA graduate incorporates marine motifs Miami and New York City, manifests evolved into a multicategory label deconstructed cast-off prison tees. Allegra NONOO and designs into her 18-karat rose-gold, this vision by integrating design, available in 40 U.S. states and 36 countries, expanded her label into a full collection semiprecious-, and precious-stone fashion, architecture, and technology.