FOUNDED BY JAN AND HERB CONN NEWS OF THE P.A.T.C. MOUNTAINEERING SECTION Vol. 43 Number 2 May, 1989 1989 FILM FESTIVAL A SMASH! The Club's second annual Washington I've seen in which the conclusion was bolt drillers to the desert, the climbing Mountain Film Festival played to a in serious ddubt and the audience was and spirit of "Piliers" was fully in tune crowd of approximately 400 at the swept along with the climbers towards with the locale. Cineplex Embassy Theater on March an uncertain ending. I thought this was The feature film of the second half, 16, 1989. The Festival had a number the best of several strong films at the "Chris Bonington: The Everest Years," of growing pains, but, on the whole, festival. barely missed the mark. This lengthy, was a success. After intermission, we were treated to contemplative film would have been The three films prior to the intermission "First Ascent," a portrayal of Lynn Hill better received earlier in the evening. were a nice mixture of new and old and and Beth Bennett's first female ascent As it was, the film seemed too retiring covered the range of simple beauty to of the Naked Edge. The story line was and stoic, following the joy of "Piliers." overdone silliness. The first film, pure "Rocky" - failure, hard work in the At times, this film was almost morbid "Nomads de la Verticale" was a largely gym, and then success. The musical in its recounting the deaths of so many failed attempt to juxtapose modern score of the gym scenes reeked of of Bonington's Himalayan climbing french climbing and Jordanian Bedouins. Hollywood and the falls in the opening partners. The lengthy scenes of The climbing was uninspired and the scenes looked staged. Nonetheless, the Bonington's family struck some people interaction between the French and the interaction between the climbers was as revealing; I found it tiresome. The Bedouins achieved only a bit of its surprisingly genuine this genre and the film had some fine footage of potential -- a nice idea that was never climbing location was spectacular. Bonington expeditions to various peaks, well executed. "Les Piliers du Reve," winner of the although only a fraction of the film "Directissima" consists of bottom to top Best of Festival award by a narrow actually involved climbing on Everest. footage of Henry Barber soling the first vote, gave Patrick Berhault a chance to Like any other tease, "Die two pitches of the climb of that name show off. Although virtually unknown Entscheidung" was ultimately and finishing on the classic third pitch to this audience because he has disappointing. Appropriately, the film of High Exposure in the Gunks. The shunned competitions and media had no climax and just enough narration covered the psychology and attention, Berhault was recognized as titillation to hold your attention tb the joy of soloing without dwelling on the the second best climber in the world final letdown. details of the particular route. Barber's by a recent vote of Vertical's Unquestionably the audio problems in control and grace on such a steep climb subscribers. Berhault is best known the first three films were the most was nicely captured by the few camera for taking elements of dance to the serious black marks on the festival. angles selected. This film would rocks. The film's highlight -- his Fortunately, two of the first three films probably have been better received if traverse of a lengthy roof -- contained were in foreign languages and Anne the audio had not been seriously stunningly graceful and fluid movement Baron's excellent voiced over distorted by technical problems. on a most difficult medium. While translation did not rely on the same The feature film before intermission, some of his acrobatics seemed defective audio system. While nearly "Den Weg 1st Die Ziel: Die Grandes contrived,the effortless gymnastics(and all of the Festival organizers were Jorasses Nordwand," was a gripping bolt clipping) were pure joy and had amateurs at this game, it seems totally reenactment of Peters and Haringer's the audience laughing and cheering unfair that the biggest snafu was caused 1930s attempts to do the first ascent of each toe hook and pile. The by a well-paid professional audio the North Face of the Grand Jorasses. background, consisting of cliff dwellings technician. The sound was fixed during The film conveyed the desperation of built by Greek hermits and monks, intermission. such an undertaking with the gear of added a nice touch. While "Nomads" The festival also ran a bit long. Much the time. This film is one of the few was a clumsy attempt to bring French of the audience did not stick around 2 UP ROPE for the last film. The Festival tarted Mike Downey, a local climber with a stylistic, and strategic issues that arise late, had an excessive intermission, wine importing business. Claire Ganz in his high stakes approach to and had one too many films. While printed and distributed tickets, climbing. we truly appreciate the support of all assisted by Brian Rennex, Jeffrey The slides were generally very good. our sponsors - REI, EMS, and Levy and Lee Collyer. All finances In particular, his self portraits on the Outdoor Provisionaries - there must and accounting were handled by Jeff Diamond and the Eiger were quite be a way to shorten the raffle. Kramer. Arrangements with our impressive, considering the other, Those problems aside, the Festival sponsors were handled by Kit Pollok more objective problems he faced. I was strong evidence of the good (REI), Sue Hartley (EMS), Doug suspect that many of his bouldering work the club can do. We Craun (Outdoor Provisionaries), and shots were taken so as to create the successfully moved from the cramped assisted by John Rayner (REI). illusion that the climber was well off Biograph to the much more spacious Ushering and clean-up were provided the ground. Perhaps that is more an Embassy. The Festival may or may by Carter Mackley, Tom Gherlein, art than a deception. not be worth the tremendous effort Ghasem Taheri and Lloyd MacAskill. On the whole, the slide show was a that went into its organization and Lee Collyer arranged for PATC to bargain and a good gesture toward execution. The audience, at least, sell tickets and T-shirts and provide the local climbing community -- was treated to a fine array of films, reception tables. The sound system admission was free. Mark joined many of which they would otherwise and projectors were rented from and several club members for an never have seen. The fact that the set by Carlos Hackley at Wilson Gill, entertaining dinner afterwards, club could even pull off this event is Inc. We rented the Embassy theater regaling all with tales of armed impressive; that we did it with some through the Cineplex Odeon theaters. ranchers and sheriffs. class without losing money is a Thanks also to anyone not For various reasons, an incredible genuine accomplishment. mentioned who helped out. number of club regulars did not Tom Isaacson attend this slide show. Perhaps MARK WILFORD SLIDE SHOW Mark was not quite a big enough FILM FESTIVAL THANKS name to shake people from their Mark Wilford gave a slide show to lethargy. In any event, those who Lunching at the French Embassy -- approximately 100 climbers at the stayed away missed one of our best talking to the BBC in Bristol at MS club meeting on February 8 at slide shows in recent years. dawn -- tracking down Henry the American Red Cross. Mark's Tom Isaacson Barber -- trudging through ice storms theme was bouldering, high and rain -- sitting bleary-eyed before bouldering, and alpine soloing. BOY SCOUT TRAINING computer screens -- planning the film The show followed a natural festival had its highs and lows. But progression beginning with traditional Twenty boy scouts thrashed up the payoff was a wonderful festival of bouldering shots in Colorado and Beginner's Crack and adjacent faces exciting films for us and nearly 500 Wyoming. From there, Mark moved at Carderock on March 18, 1989 other mountain lovers. MS wishes to to a discussion of high bouldering, under the watchful eyes of Jeanette thank each of the following people which is essentially unroped climbing Helfrich, Jeffrey Levy, Rich Cady, and others who helped so much. where only a broken ankle or leg John Rayner and Tom Gherlein, and The film festival directors were Ken would result from a fall. Mark then several parents. Scouts ranging in Andrasko, Madeleine Carter, and covered soloing on ice and mixed age from 10-16 received basic rock Jeanette Helfrich, who, along with terrain. He featured a winter roped climbing training arranged by Gary Anne Baron, obtained and previewed solo ascent of D7 on the Diamond Persinger of Troop No. 264 from the films. Anne Baron was in on Long's Peak. Olney, Maryland. Due to the large charge of translation of the French Mark concluded with an in-depth number of students, we taught the and German films. Jacques Tamisier presentation on his first American group in two classes and deleted arranged for preview of the Euro- solo ascent of the north face of the some things we normally teach such pean films at the French Embassy. Eiger. Along the way he had a few as rappelling. (We recommend s- Publicity was handled by Tom brushes with disaster, although he maller classes). The spectacular Isaacson, Tim Hood, Tom ICawecld, seems to have imperiled others thunderstorm that blew in about 2:30 and Rick Forbes. John Yanson and almost as much as himself.