GojiyiightTM , COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS, CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF EVERYTHING ON OR ABOUT THESE ISLANDS OF WHICH THE VISITOR OR RESIDENT MAY DESIRE INFORMATION, INCLUDING THEIR HISTORY, INHABITANTS, CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, GEOLOGY, GOVERNMENT AND RESOURCES. WITH MAPS, ENGRAVINGS AND PHOTO PRINTS. BY JAMES H. STARK. BOSTON James H. Stark, 31 Milk Street LONDON Sampson Low, Marston & Co., Limited THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Two Copiet Received OCT 1 1903 Copyright tntfy CUSS «t xXc.No COPY 0. Copyright, 1903. By JAMES H. STARK. • ... Cjcvwuu /V PREFACE. My purpose in writing this book has been to introduce to the notice of those unacquainted with the Caribbee Islands and Barbados, some of the many attractions to be found there, how to reach these beautiful islands, their resources and produc- tions ; and a brief history of their discovery and settlement ; also the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and a complete index and guide to all points of interest. These islands are now passing through a transition state, what their industrial and political future will be, it is impossible to tell. I have related, however, what in my opinion, (based upon my observations there and elsewhere), would be the result if the negroes were allowed to rule. In compiling this work, every authority that it was possible to obtain on the subjects contained therein, has been consulted, and the information embodied in this work. Much of the matter is compiled from such authorities as Ligon's and Schomburgk's, histories of Barbados, Moxley Guide to Barbados, Froude's English in the West Indies, Paton's Down the Islands, Black America, and many other works too numerous to mention. Contents, I. The Voyage to Santa Cruize, ... i II. St. Kitts and Nevis, 9 III. Nevis, Antigua and Montserrat, . 18 IV. Guadaloupe and Dominica, 27 V. Martinique and St. Lucia, .... 42 VI. Barbados, Its First Appearance, Early History 56 VII. Civil War in Barbados, .... 72 VIII. Wars with France, Abolition of Slavery, 83 IX. Inhabitants, Whites, Colored, and Negroes, ioi X. Barbados as a Health Resort, Amusements and Recreation, no XL Seaside Resorts, The Crane and Bathsheba, Rambles in Scotland Hills, . 118 XII. Caves and Ravines, 127 XIII. Oistin's Bay, Christ Church, Remarkable Occurrence, 140 XIV. Hackelton's Cliff, St. John's Church, Paleologus, Indian Antiquities, . 148 XV. Agriculture and Industries, . 153 XVI. Religion and Education, . .161 XVIL The Geology of Barbados, .... 176 XVI 1 1. Washington's Visit to Barbados, Barbadian Hospitality, 184 XIX. The Future of Barbados and the Caribbef Islands, 191 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. Carlisle Bay, Frontispiece. After the Eruption, Martinique, 42 A Negro Beauty, 132 Antigua', . 24 Basseterre Park, St. Kitts, 6 Boiling Lake, Dominica, 33 Boiling House, . .155 Bowen, Dr. Residence, .112 Bridgetown Harbor, . 84 Broad Street, Barbados, . 194 Carrying Pottery to Bridgetown, 124 Codrington College, . .170 Curiosity Shop, 178 English Harbor, Antigua, 26 Entrance to Farley Hall, 150 First West Indian Regiment, 114 Going to Market, .131 Hot Springs, 48 Infantry Camp, Gun Hill, 94 Joe's River Plantation, 134 Ligon's Map of Barbados 1647, J 5^ Lord's Castle, 118 Map of Barbados, 190 Map of the Caribbee Islands, . • • n Map showing location of the Caribbee Islands, . 3 Marine Hotel, Hastings, 5$ Market, Guadaloupe, . • 29 Market Place, Dominica, 36 Mount Pleasant Plantation, 164 Mountains of Dominica, ...... 39 18 Nevis, , ... Parliament Buildings, ....... 68 INDEX. Point A. Petre, Guadaloupe. ...... 28 Public Square, Basseterre, 14 Public Buildings, 76 Ready for Market. 157 Repairing the Road, 129 Roadside Scene, 122 Roebuck Street, Barbados, 186 Seashore, Bathsheba, . .120 Shot Hill, 104 Sonfriere, St. Kitts, 16 St. John's Church, Antigua, 22 St. Kitts, 12 The " Bridge" Bridgetown, 64 The Coffins, 145, 146 The Pitons, St. Lucia, 50 The Tomb, . 141 Three Natives, . 119 Trafalgar Square, 90 View in front of the Ice House, 58 Where Lord Nelson was Married, . 20 Windmill, Mt. Pleasant, 154 Windmill and Boiling House, 154 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE TO BARBADOS AND THE- CARIBBEE ISLANDS, CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE. SANTA CRUZ. To the tourists and invalids desirous of escaping the rigors of a northern winter, a new and enchant- ing field is opened up by a trip to Barbados by way of the Windward Islands, known also as the Carib'bees or Lesser Antilles. A trip from New York to the Caribbee Islands occupies six days each way at sea. The direct dis- tance from New York to St. Croix, the first island in this group at which the steamer stops, is 1465 miles, and from there to Barbados 400 miles : the actual run to, and among the islands is about 2,000 miles. The visitor has the choice of two lines of steamers running from New York to Barbados. The Quebec Steamship Co. dispatches a steamer every two weeks, stopping at St. Croix, St. Kitts, Antigua, Guada- loupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, and Barba- dos ; and sometimes at Montserrat and Nevis. A day or two is spent at each place, discharging and taking in cargo, thereby allowing ample time for the passengers to go ashore for a drive or walk about the island, the run between the islands being made by night. 2 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE Pickford and Black's West India Steamship Line dispatches a first-class vessel from St. John, N. B., and Halifax, N. S., every two weeks calling at *" Bermuda, St. Lucia, Barbados, Trinidad and Demerara, and in every four weeks the steamer also stops at St. Kitts, Antigua, Montserrat, Domin- ica, St. Vincent, Grenada and Tobago. Passen- gers not desiring to take the steamer at St. John or Halifax can connect with this line at Bermuda, by taking a steamer of the Que'bec Steamship Line sailing weekly from New York to Bermuda. The writer decided to take passage on a steamer of the Quebec Steamship Company Line. We left the dock at New York at 3 p. m., Wednesday, in the early part of January, during a driving northwest snow storm, and the dock as we went aboard was slippery with snow and ice. There was the usual crowd and confusion before departure. Those going could not be distinguished, till the bell rang to clear the ship, from the friends who had accompanied them to take leave. It was bitter cold as we proceeded down New York harbor. The steamer discharged the pilot at Sandy Hook, and encountered at once heavy seas, which speedily drove all the passengers to the seclusion of their state rooms. Very few appeared at the table the next morning, and taking it altogether Thursday was a very uncomfortable day. Friday morning we were in the Gulf Stream, the weather was mild and pleas- ant, the passengers all on deck enjoying the mild balmy air, and it was a sudden transition from winter to spring. The delightful change in the weather had a pleas- effect upon the spirits of ship's company ing the ; passengers whom we had not before seen, came from the retirement of their stateroom to the deck, wraps and overcoats were discarded, and there was no need to pace the deck to keep warm. By noon, under the genial influence of the sun, we became more and ; 4 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE more affable. In a surprising short time we made ourselves at home, striking up acquaintance with and confiding in one another, in the manner of old friends. We entered the Gulf Stream 60 miles south of Cape May, when 190 miles out, and for 150 miles were crossing its axis passing, midway between ; Charlestown, S. C. and Hamilton, the capital of the Bermudas, where the current runs the strongest. The southern limit of the Gulf Stream was reached 250 miles further, about sunrise Saturday morning, Cape Hatteras having been passed about 10 o'clock Friday night. Sunday the sea was calm and smooth in the morning ; in the afternoon the northeast: trade winds were felt, and the next day, Monday, large quantities of gulf-weed from the Saragasso Sea were passed. Tuesday, the sixth day out, flying fish was noticeable, and in the evening Culebrita Light was sighted ; later, the curious Sail Rock, resembling a ship, was passed. Porto Rico with the adjacent Culebra and Crab Islands was in sight to the west and St. Thomas, with St. John's and other of the Vir- gin Islands, to the east. At 9 p. m. the anchor was dropped in the harbor at Frederickstaed, St. Croix. Now we are in the Caribbean sea among the islands of the Caribs and the Cannibals. What memories of the past and strange scenes, come floating before our vision. As we look back into the history of these islands, a shadowy procession of great figures pre- sents itself. Columbus and Cortez and Las Casas, the millions of Indians exterminated by the Spaniards who formerly occupied these islands, the black swarms who were poured in to take their places, the frightful story of the slave trade, the thousands of white slaves sent here to their death, the papal bull bestowing on Spain all the countries within the tropics west of the Atlantic. The English and French Protestants who took to the sea like water dogs and challenged their TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 5 enemies in their own special domain, here met the Spainards gorged with plunder and wading in blood. Here Drake and Hawkins interrupted the golden stream which flowed from Panama into the exchequer of Madrid, and furnished Philip with the means to carry on his war with the Reformation. It was not the Crown or the Government which fought these battles, it was the people of England with their own hands and their own resources.