©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 434 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. And it gets harder with each journey to be OUR READERS away from my family – to Marina, Carlota and Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Valentina, heartfelt thanks for enduring my edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, use- absences. Os quiero. ful advice and interesting anecdotes: Stuart Butler Alan Quinn, Ankur Agarwal, Anthony Smith, Axel Once again I’d like to thank my wife, Heather, Nelms, Bart de Boer, Bitte Giæver, Catherine Ward, and children Jake and Grace for their patience Chai Sia, Christian Stranger-Johannessen, Chris- with this project. I’d also like to thank everyone topher Eva, Cornelia Pabijan, Dave Whitfield, David in Norway who, knowingly or unknowingly, Souyris, Egil Hogrenning, Ellen IJspeert, Esteban helped with my research, as well as my co- Ara, Gidon Morein, Gloria Thompson, Idun Urdal, authors Anthony and Donna and, back at Isaiah Bier, Jennifer Marsh, Jennita Dankelman, Lonely Planet HQ, Gemma. Jeremy Fischer, Jim Hill, Jonathan Baines, Jørgen Berentsen-Deem, Judith Harper, Kate Martin, Kath- Donna Wheeler leen Hanley, Kenneth Lew, Lars Wara, Lies Offeciers, Norway as a whole deserves thanks for being Linn Dahle, Magnus Nørsett, Maja Branovacki, Martin such a wonderfully decent, civil, and, yes, warm Williams, Marvin Finnley, Matthias Schroeter, Matthijs place. A big takk to the Bergenvegger: the van Vulpen, Melissa Reading, Niklas Aas Skovdahl, incredibly generous, welcoming Eirik Glambek Niklas Barre, Peter Andrews, Rachel Lim, Ragnar Aug- Bøe, along with Live Ø Danielsen, Jo, Martin estad, Sain Alizada, Sally Amis, Sam Joffe, Stephanie and Yorick, for all your suggestions and com- Johnston, Terje Løkke, Tom Day, Tony Geerts, Vidar pany. That extends to the Rønning family in Hovlid, Zaf Kowolski. Åndalsnes, Sissel Thompson, Anne-Marie and Marte in Stavanger and Carlos Inglesias and AUTHOR THANKS Johan Jr in Haugesund. And, finally, thanks to mio bell’ uomo, Joe Guario, for doing it again. Anthony Ham Special thanks to Gemma Graham; to my fine co- authors Stuart and Donna; to Miles Roddis; to Ron and Elaine for first igniting my love of Norway. As always, so many Norwegians I met were unfailingly helpful ambassadors for their country – I am deeply grateful to all of them. 435 Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Cover photograph: Winter cabin, Oppland. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Vegard Røine Stenerud, Getty Images. ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate BEHIND THE SCENES guidebook was produced by ber, Melanie Dankel, Victoria THIS BOOK the following: Harrison, Charlotte Orr, Sally This 6th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Gemma Schafer Planet’s Norway guidebook Graham Cartographer James Leversha was researched and written by Product Editor Bruce Evans Cover Researcher Naomi Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler Coordinating Editor Lauren Parker and Donna Wheeler. The 5th O’Connell Thanks to Ryan Evans, Larissa edition was written by Anthony Frost, Jouve India, Elizabeth Ham, Stuart Butler and Miles Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Jones, Benjamin Little, Claire Roddis, and the 4th edition Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Book Designer Clara Monitto by Anthony Ham, Miles Rod- Power, Dianne Schallmeiner, Assisting Editors Judith Bam- dis and Kari Lundgren. This Samantha Tyson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 436 Index A aquariums food 152, 165-7 Brønnøysund 282 Å 300-1 Atlanterhavsparken 241 itineraries 168 Bryggen 12, 153-4, 156, 12 accommodation 406-9, see Bergen Akvariet 157 safety 171 Bud 248 also individual locations Lofoten Aquarium 295 shopping 170-1 budgeting 16-17 language 428 Norsk Villaks Senter 214 sights 153-4, 156-8 Buksnesfjord 309 snow hotels 328 Polaria 313 tourist information 171 bungee jumping 29 Tubakuba forest cabin 163 Risør Saltwater tours 159-60 bus travel 417, 421, 425 activities 18-19, 29-38, Aquarium 93 travel seasons 152 business hours 17, 413 see also individual Sognefjord Aquarium 216 travel to/from 171-2 activities aquavit 402 travel within 172 C planning 29-30 architecture 20, 398-9 websites 171 camping 407 summer 30-4, 177 Arctic Cathedral 313, 12 Besseggen 149 car travel 422-5 tours 37-8 Arctic Circle Centre 276 bicycle travel 29, 30, 420 castles & fortresses winter 34-7, 177 Arctic fox 384 Lofoten Islands 297 Akershus Slott 53 Adventdalen 359 Arctic Highway 272-81 birds 387 air travel 416, 420 Christiansholm Fortress Arctic menu scheme 301 birdwatching 333, 387 99 Akerøy 83 Arctic North landscape Bjørndalen 359 Fredriksten Fortress & Akkerhaugen 111 379, 383 Bjørnson, Bjørnstjerne 395 Museums 84 alcohol 71, 402 area codes 414 Bleik 309 Kristiansten Fort 256 Ålesund 14, 240-5, Arendal 94-5 Blomstrandhalvøya 361 Tønsberg Castle 87 242-3, 14 art galleries, see galleries blue whales 386 cathedrals, see churches accommodation 242-4 arts 395-9 Bø 309 & cathedrals, stave activities 240-1 Askevågen 251 boat travel 420-1, see also churches drinking & nightlife 245 Askrova 229 Hurtigruten coastal caves festivals & events 242 Asmaløy 82 ferry, Skibladner paddle Grønligrotta 275 food 244 ATMs 412 steamer, Telemark Canal Kirkehelleren 284 shopping 245 Aurland 212-13 Bødalsbreen 225 Setergrotta 275 sights 240-1 aurora borealis 10, 21, 379, Bodø 285-9, 287 Skjonghellaren 246 tourist information 245 383, 10 accommodation 286 cell phones 16, 413-14 tours 241 Austvågøy 179, 290-7, 178 activities 286 central Norway 42, 119-51, travel to/from 245 Averøy 248-9 drinking & nightlife 288 120-1 travel within 245 entertainment 288 accommodation 119 allemannsretten 31 festivals & events 286 highlights 119, 120-1 B Alta 323-5 food 286-8 travel seasons 119 Balestrand 216-17 Amundsen, Roald 62, 374 shopping 288 children, travel with 39-41, Barentsburg 359-60 Åndalsnes 231-5 sights 285- 62-3, 201 Batalden 229 Andenes 306-9 tourist information 288 churches & cathedrals, see bathrooms 414 Andøya 306-9 travel to/from 288-9 also stave churches Bergen 43, 153-72, 156, animal reserves, see zoos & travel within 289 Ålesund Church 241 160-1, 164 animal reserves Bondhusbreen 194 Arctic Cathedral 313, 12 accommodation 152, animals 18, 384-7, see also Bergen Cathedral 158 161-5 books 364 individual species Bodin Kirke 285-6 activities 158-9 food 401, 402 Bodø cathedral 285 drinking & nightlife 167-9 WWII 376 Church of St Olav 216 emergencies 171 Bøyabreen 221 Egersund Kirke 106 Map Pages 000 entertainment 169-70 Bragdøya 103 Flakstad Kirke 299 Photo Pages 000 festivals & events 160-1 Briksdalsbreen 224-5 437 Flekkefjord Church 105 discount cards 409 Finse 150-1 Florø 227-9 Gamle Aker Kirke 64 dog-sledding 29, 34-6 fishing 29, 31 food 400-4 Hammerfest Kirke 327 Dombås 137 commercial 389 Arctic Menu scheme 301 Hedmark Museum & Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella fishing & maritime books 401, 402 Glass Cathedral 126-7 National Park 138-9 museums etiquette 403 Hove Stone Church 216 drinks 401-2 Fiskerimuseet (Ålesund) language 403-4, 428-9 Kinsarvik Stone Church alcoholic 71 241 local dishes 401 INDEX 189 driving licences 422 Fiskerimuseet (Molde) prices 410 246 Kirkelandet Church 250 driving, see car travel self-catering 71 Grimstad Maritime Kristiansand Drøbak 78-9 websites 400 C-G Cathedral 99 Museum 96 fortresses, see castles & Hardanger Fartøyvern- Lofthus Stone Church fortresses 189 E senter 185 Fredrikstad 79-82, 80 Mariakirken 157 economy 365 Karmøy Fiskerimuseum fuel 422 Nesseby Church 335 Egersund 106-7 197 Nidaros Domkirke 254-5 Eidfjord 186-8 Kjeldsen Fish Factory 336 Northern Lights Eldhusøya 251 G Cathedral 324 electricity 410 Kon-Tiki Museum 63 galleries 398 Oslo Cathedral 51 elk 384 Lofoten Tørrfiskmuseum Art Museum of Northern 301 Røros Kirke 130 Elverum 128-9, 375 Norway 316 Norsk Fiskeværsmuseum embassies 410 Astrup Fearnley Museet Rose Church 241 300 emergencies, language 48, 61 Seljord Church 116 Norsk Klippfiskmuseum 429-30 Bergen Kunsthall 156 St Michaels Catholic 249-50 environmental issues Bomuldsfabriken Church 328 Norwegian Fishing 388-91 Kunsthall 94-5 St Olav’s Church 196 Industry Museum 304 climate change 388, 416 Fargeklatten 310 Stavanger Domkirke 198 Norwegian Maritime Trondenes Kirke 310 polar bears 352 Museum 63 Galleri 2 298 Undredal Church 213 whaling 349, 389-90 Polarship Fram Galleri Dagfinn Bakke 291 Vadsø Church 336 Eurail passes 426 Museum 62 Galleri Espolin 295 Vågan Kirke 295 Eurasian lynx 385, 14 Sjøfartsmuseet 157 Galleri Stig Tobiassen Vangskyrkja & St Olav’s Evangar 182 Sogn og Fjordane 291-2 Cross 172