Pursuits MY FAVORITE WEEKEND GLOBAL GATEWAY From left: The historic Bab Al Bahrain (aka Gateway to Bahrain); an artful dish from Cantina Kahlo at The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain. FRIDAY MORNING AND AFTERNOON One of the best examples of this is the island’s quiet nature on a Friday morning. Shops are shut, streets are traffic-free and everyone remains at home until dhuhr, the midday call to prayer, echoes across the island. For visitors, this is the time to sun lounge and meditate under clear blue skies. After the prayer, life bursts forth in the afternoon as shops and cafés open, and narrow souq lanes fill up with shoppers stocking up on ingredients for family meals or perusing fabrics for kaftans. These are some of the best places to get a feel for the culture, with the labyrinthine Manama Souq (Block 304, Manama), not far from some of the island’s top hotels, an ideal place to wander. Entering at the historic Bab Al Bahrain — which aptly translates to “Gateway to Bahrain” — the excitement and chaos of the souq greet shoppers with a riot of colors, sounds and aromas. Within Bab Al Bahrain, make a Pearl of pit stop at Naseef Café (Bab Al Bahrain, Manama), beloved for its traditional fare and Arabia ice cream (the mango flavor is a must-try) since nown for kicking off oil it was established in 1920. Winding through the Bahrain vaunts lovingly production in the Arabian Gulf, crowd, follow Bab Al Bahrain Avenue to become preserved heritage and K the diminutive island kingdom acquainted with the kingdom’s most luxurious traditional charm for an of Bahrain is more than just a deposit of fossil export: natural pearls. To preserve the nation’s authentic Gulf experience. fuels. With enclaves of independent restau- pearl-diving heritage, the sale of cultured pearls rants, museums and heritage sites packed has been banned, and shops in the souq’s Gold By Laurel Munshower with local history, and atmospheric souqs Souq building (Shaikh Abdullah Road, where everything from produce to some of Manama) practically glow with the beauties, the world’s most beautiful natural pearls can set in ornate pieces suited for royalty. Farther be bargained for, Bahrain is a rare experience into Manama Souq, another glimpse of its where the charm of its origins hasn’t been pearlescent past can be found in Bait Khalaf overshadowed by a deluge of modernity. (Road 109, shaikhebrahimcenter.org). Once a BIBIKOW/ALAMY WALTER THAMPY; THANOOJ PHIL WEYMOUTH/GETTY IMAGES; FROM TOP: 82 RITZCARLTON.COM FdRCSP17_082-084_Pursuits_Weekend_Bahrain.indd 82 2/22/17 1:27 PM pearl merchant’s house, it is now a heritage site (Karbabad, culture.gov.bh). This ancient showcasing Manama’s pearl-trade history amid harbor and former capital of Dilmun (a stunning traditional architecture and meticu- third-millennium B.C. civilization) lies just lously carved wooden doors and balconies. outside of Manama on the northern coast and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Occupied FRIDAY EVENING for over 4,000 years, the site is an archaeologi- Friday is the evening to go out in town, and cal tell — a hill formed over time by successive The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain (Bldg. 112, King human occupations — that was most recently Mohammed VI Ave., Al Seef, ritzcarlton.com) a Portuguese fort. Its museum displays the offers buzzing bars and restaurants within wealth of artifacts that have been found here. steps of each other. Start off at the newly While you’re in the area, stop by the Bahrain opened Cantina Kahlo, a vibrant spot that Arts Society (bahartsociety.org.bh). The sets the evening off in a lively atmosphere with nonprofit cultural organization was started by authentic Mexican cuisine. Neighboring the a group of artists in 1983. Today it promotes Moving forward in time, and heading briefly hotel, it’s easy to venture over to check out the and develops local artists by hosting exhibi- inland, is La Fontaine Centre of Contempo- trendy scene at Bushido (Bldg. 52, Road 38, tions, workshops and lectures year round. rary Art (92 Hoora Ave., Block 306, Manama, Seef, Block 428, bushido.com.bh), decked out Next, continue the historical education at lafontaineartcentre.net), housed within a in Japanese style and featuring an excellent the Bahrain National Museum (Shaikh 19th-century mansion updated with Islamic mezzanine bar and lounge where a DJ spins Hamad Causeway, Manama, bahrain.com), accents. First, sate an appetite at the center’s tunes while you sip a nightcap. a 12-minute drive along the coast. Here, a restaurant, where European dishes are served contemporary façade masks rooms full of in a refined and peaceful setting. Refueled, SATURDAY DAY Bahraini heritage and history, from the peruse the mansion’s rooms, which display Today, begin where life on the island did, at one Dilmun to the Islamic period, and changing contemporary artwork, sculptures and of its earliest settlements, Qal’at al-Bahrain showcases of modern art and exhibits. photography by international artists. Nearby, it’s time to fully take advantage of the region’s affinity for modern indulgences at Moda Mall (Bahrain World Trade Center, Manama, modabahrain.com), where luxury boutiques make for an easy shopping spree. Dior, Gucci and Hermès are but a few of the labels on offer to visiting fashionistas. SATURDAY EVENING SOUQ WORTHY From top: The Riffa Fort, Head back into Manama tonight to get a taste which dates back to 1812; of Block 338 in the Adliya area, a neighborhood a shop selling traditional of stand-alone, licensed bars and restaurants clothing at the Manama within villas. Book a table at Upstairs Souq; Qalʼat al-Bahrain. Downstairs (Bldg. 754, Road 3825, Adliya Block 338, Manama, upstairsdownstairs.me), an award-winning restaurant in an English country-house style that draws crowds for its international cuisine enjoyed alongside a soundtrack of live, local jazz musicians. After dinner, walk off some of the dining indulgences on the way to the edge of Block 338, to The Foundry (Bldg. 1082, Rd. 3831, Adliya Block 338, Manama, tfr15.com). This cool new spot vaunts an industrial-chic vibe and — even better — skillfully crafted cocktails by an expert bartender brought in from France. 83 RITZCARLTON.COM FdRCSP17_088-090_Pursuits_Weekend_Bahrain.indd 83 2/17/17 3:09 PM Pursuits MY FAVORITE WEEKEND MODERN MARVEL The contemporary façade of The Bahrain National International Museum. Flavor With so many types of cuisine available in Bahrain, there’s truly something for everyone. Hussain Al Ghanim, concierge at The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain, shares some of his favorite recommendations. –Amanda Friedman BUSHIDO “This gorgeous restaurant and lounge serves a unique selection of Japanese cuisine, with everything from sushi to teppanyaki to robata SUNDAY DAY grill skewers, all made for sharing. Tour the rest of the small kingdom by having The sprawling space’s dark wood and stone décor transports you to your hotel arrange a driver to see the sights. the streets of ancient Japan in an Heading south into the center of the island, instant.” Bldg. 52, Road 38, Seef find theTree of Life (near Jebel Dukhan) Area, Block 428; bushido.com.bh a 50-minute drive from Manama. This 400-year-old, 32-foot-tall mimosa causes a TRADER VIC’S stir as it thrives yet appears to have no water “This is such a fun place to visit — source amid the stark desert landscape. a bit of Polynesia at the hotel. Break up the drive back into town and stop “Bahrain is a I love their dedicated sommelier at Well No. 1 (Jebel Dukhan), Bahrain’s — and extensive selection of mocktails and cocktails, as well as their and the Arabian region’s — first oil well, rare experience exciting fusion concept of Polyne- which began spouting the black gold in 1932 where the charm of sian traditions and international for Bahrain Petroleum Co. Twenty minutes cuisine.” The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain, closer to Manama is the Shaikh Salman Bin its origins hasn’t been Al Seef; tradervics.com.bh Ahmed Al-Fateh Fort (Riffa), or Riffa Fort, overshadowed by which dates back to 1812. Decorated by BEIJING CHINESE simple but regional architectural accents in a deluge of modernity.” RESTAURANT gypsum, here visitors have the opportunity to “Located in the heart of the restau- step into Bahrain’s history, as the structure rant district in Adliya, this is the go- served not only as a fort, but also as a to place for authentic and modern Chinese cuisine. It’s known for its residence to the Khalifa family, which has tomato mix; warm sandwiches filled with warm and family-friendly environ- ruled the kingdom since 1783. mango chutney, onion and cheese; bread with ment, with wonderful service and a mehyawa, a fish, cumin and coriander mix great, entertaining atmosphere for SUNDAY EVENING that packs a tangy punch; spiced potatoes; all.” Villa 567, Road 3819, Block 338; One of the more low-key evenings in town and more. Save your appetite because it’s all Adliya; beijingrestaurantbh.com each week, this is a good time to visit the worth trying. older area of Muharraq, north of Manama Continue the evening’s traditional flavor SAFFRON BY JENA toward the airport. This is also the ideal and end it as the locals do. A 15-minute drive “This is considered an institution chance to get a taste of traditional Bahraini away is the new Amwaj Islands development, when it comes to Bahraini restau- rants. Hidden in the side streets cuisine at Saffron by Jena (Al Qaisariya where relaxed cafés sit alongside the shore- of Muharraq, and best known Souq, Muharraq). This minuscule café line.