©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi Malawi p174 Zambia p34 Victoria Falls p85 Mozambique p101 Mary Fitzpatrick, James Bainbridge, Trent Holden, Brendan Sainsbury PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Zambia, ZAMBIA ...........34 Understand Zambia. 73 Mozambique & Malawi. 4 Lusaka. 35 Zambia Today . 73 Zambia, Mozambique & History . 73 Malawi’s Top 12 .........8 Eastern Zambia ........45 Way of Life . 76 Need to Know. 14 Chipata . .. 45 Environment . 76 If You Like… ........... 16 South Luangwa National Park . 46 Survival Guide. 78 Month by Month ....... 19 North Luangwa Directory A–Z . 78 Itineraries . .22 National Park . 52 Getting There & Away . 81 Countries at a Glance. 31 Southern Zambia. .52 Getting Around . 83 Chirundu . 52 Lower Zambezi National Park . 53 VICTORIA FALLS ...85 Lake Kariba . 56 Seventh Natural Wonder of the World. 86 Choma . 57 Zambia ...............89 Lochinvar National Park . 58 Livingstone . 90 Western Zambia. 58 Zimbabwe . .95 Kafue National Park . 58 Victoria Falls . 95 Mongu . 61 PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET© HARVEY/LONELY LEE PHILIP Liuwa Plain National Park . 62 MOZAMBIQUE .... 101 Senanga . 62 Maputo ..............104 Ngonye Falls . 63 Around Maputo ....... 113 Sesheke . 64 Inhaca Island . 113 Northern Zambia . .64 Marracuene & Serenje . .. 64 Macaneta Beach . 113 Kasanka National Park . 64 Southern Bangweulu Wetlands . 65 Mozambique ...........114 Samfya . .. 66 Ponta d’Ouro & LEOPARD, SOUTH LUANGWA Ponta Malongane . 114 Mutinondo Wilderness . 66 NATIONAL PARK P46 Bilene . 116 Mpika . 67 Limpopo National Park . 116 Shiwa Ng’andu . 67 Xai-Xai . 118 JONATHAN GREGSON/LONELY PLANET © PLANET GREGSON/LONELY JONATHAN Kasama . 68 Inhambane . 118 Mbala . 68 Tofo . 120 Lake Tanganyika . 69 Tofinho . 122 Kalambo Falls . 70 Barra . 122 The Copperbelt .........71 Maxixe . 122 Kapiri Mposhi . 71 Massinga & Ndola . 71 Morrungulo . 123 Kitwe . 72 Pomene . 123 Chingola . 72 Vilankulo . 124 Chimfunshi Bazaruto Archipelago . 126 MT MULANJE, MALAWI P211 Wildlife Orphanage . 72 Contents SURVIVAL UNDERSTAND GUIDE Central Mozambique. 127 MALAWI ...........174 Health ...............226 Beira . 127 Lilongwe ............. 176 Language ............232 Gorongosa Northern Malawi ...... 182 Index ................243 National Park . 131 Karonga . 182 Map Legend ..........255 Chimoio . 131 Livingstonia . 184 Manica . 132 Nyika National Park . 185 Chimanimani Mountains . 133 Vwaza Marsh Tete . 133 Wildlife Reserve . 186 Cahora Bassa Dam Mzuzu . 187 & Songo . 135 Nkhata Bay . 189 Caia . 135 Likoma Island . 191 Quelimane . 135 Chizumulu Island . 192 Mocuba . 137 Central Malawi. 192 Gurúè . 137 Viphya Plateau . 192 Northern Mozambique ..138 Nkhotakota . 193 Nampula . 138 Senga Bay . 195 Mozambique Island . 142 Monkey Bay . 196 Around Mozambique Island . 146 Cape Maclear . 196 Cuamba . 147 Southern Malawi . 200 Lichinga . 148 Liwonde . 200 Lake Niassa . 149 Zomba . 202 Niassa Reserve . 150 Zomba Plateau . 203 Montepuez . 151 Blantyre & Limbe . 205 Pemba . 151 Mulanje . 210 Murrébuè . 155 Majete Wildlife Reserve . 213 Quirimbas Archipelago . 156 Understand Malawi . 214 Moçimboa da Praia . 158 Malawi Today . 214 Mueda . 159 History . 214 Palma . 159 The Culture . 217 Understand The Arts . 217 Mozambique. 160 Natural Environment . 218 Mozambique Today . 160 Survival Guide. 218 SPECIAL History . 160 Directory A–Z . 218 FEATURES Cuisine . 163 Getting There & Away . 221 Zambia, Mozambique The Arts . 163 Getting Around . 223 & Malawi’s Top 12 ....... 8 Natural Environment . 164 Victoria Falls ..........85 Survival Guide. 165 Directory A–Z . 165 Getting There & Away . 168 Getting Around . 171 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22 DIETMAR TEMPS/500PX © TEMPS/500PX DIETMAR Plan Your Trip Itineraries Kafue ZAMBIA National Park ÷# É Lower LUSAKA Zambezi #_ National MOZAMBIQUE É É Park Lochinvar É ÷# National Park É ÷# É É É É •# Siavonga Lake Kariba É ZIMBABWE NAMIBIA Livingstone •# Victoria Falls 2 WEEKS Wildlife & Waterfalls continuing westwards to the wetlands at This itinerary encompasses several Lochinvar National Park, renowned for of the region’s highlights: wildlife, the birding and its lechwe population. Over- majestic Victoria Falls and Lake Kariba, night at the Moorings Campsite. one of the world’s largest artificial lakes. The next stop is historic Livingstone, gateway to thundering , Start in , Zambia’s gateway. Then Victoria Falls Lusaka where you can do some canoe trips or journey southeast to Lower Zambezi Na- white-water rafting. Next head northeast , one of Africa’s finest wilderness tional Park to via its south regions, to spot wildlife along the Zambezi. Kafue National Park Dundumwezi Gate. Spend the first night at Navigate southwest to Siavonga on Konkamoya Lodge overlooking Lake Itezhi- sparkling Lake Kariba and relax by the Tezhi, then a few days heading north into water. From Siavonga, retrace your steps the park for excellent birding and wildlife. northwest towards Kafue junction, before From here it’s a day’s travel back to Lusaka. 23 23 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES MAKSYM KALYTA/SHUTTERSTOCK © (p85) Zambia Bottom: Lodge Lodge Bottom: Top: VictoriaTop: Falls restaurant, Kafue Kafue restaurant, National Park (p58), / GETTY IMAGES © 24 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF TANZANIA CONGO Nkhata Likoma Nkhotakota Bay Wildlife Island •# •# Quirimbas Reserve •# ANGOLA É •#Cóbuè Archipelago South Luangwa ‚ National Park ÷# •#Metangula ÷# É •# Pemba É •#Lichinga •# •# É Chipata #_ É É ZAMBIA É Cuamba LILONGWE •# É •# •# Mozambique Senga Bay LUSAKA#_ Nampula Island MALAWI MOZAMBIQUE É ZIMBABWE NAMIBIA BOTSWANA É SOUTH AFRICA #_MAPUTO SWAZILAND 25 PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © PLANET HARVEY/LONELY LEE PHILIP 6 Zambia, Mozambique WEEKS & Malawi Sampler Exploring all three countries in a single trip PLAN YOUR TRIP makes for an excellent journey. Given the distances involved, it’s best to plan out a general route in advance, and to allow a bit of extra time just in case. Start in Lusaka, getting your bearings and becoming acquainted with this low-key capital, IT before taking a flight (or enduring a long bus I journey) to South Luangwa National Park. NERAR This is one of Zambia’s premier parks, with an incredible density of animals. Plan on at least I three days here, taking in night drives, daytime ES wildlife drives and a walking safari or two be- fore continuing on via the busy but agreeable town of Chipata to the Zambia–Malawi border, from where it’s just over 100km to Lilongwe. Stop to grab some Malawian kwacha and have a good meal before continuing east to meet the mighty Lake Malawi in laid-back Senga Bay, which has some good beachfront lodges. While exploring the lake, don’t miss a detour to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, which offers an accessible experience of the bush with the chance of seeing elephants, antelope and even lions. Nkhata Bay, with its chilled vibe and many water-based activities, is the perfect place to JACOJVR/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES JACOJVR/GETTY relax and take a diving course. From here, catch the ferry to Likoma Island to explore the lake’s crystal waters, visit the historic cathedral and enjoy the serene island pace. From Likoma, it’s straightforward to continue over to Cóbuè, a short sail away on Mozambique’s wild north- western lake coast. Once in Cóbuè, you could continue by pre-arranged charter boat to lovely Nkwichi Lodge, or make your way south to- wards Metangula and on to Lichinga. Spend a day or two in Lichinga, with its jacarandas and cool temperatures, before travelling to Cuamba, starting point of the classic 10-hour train ride east to Nampula. Nampula, in turn, is the jumping-off point for magical Mozam- bique Island, a Unesco World Heritage Site and Africa highlight, with its cobbled streets, colonial-era architecture and constant backdrop of turquoise seas. You’ll likely want to linger at least two or three days here, perhaps longer, be- fore heading north to Pemba and the Quirim- Top: Lionesses and cubs, South Luangwa bas Archipelago, or south towards Maputo. National Park (p46), Zambia Bottom: Low tide at Pemba (p151), Mozambique 26 DOC STAR/500PX © DOC STAR/500PX 3 WEEKS Beaches & Islands Mozambique has some of the most enticing coastline on the continent. Combine exploration of its northern highlights with visits to Lake Malawi’s alluring islands and inland beaches for an adventurous but relaxing itinerary. The beach town of Pemba, in northern Mozam- bique, makes a good starting point. Spend a few days here getting acclimatised and enjoying the vibe. Don’t miss nearby Murrébuè, with its kitesurfing, quiet, white sand and turquoise- hued ocean vistas. Next, set off for enchant- ing Ibo Island, a regional highlight, with its massive star-shaped fort, its silversmiths and its crumbling colonial-era mansions. After wandering and enjoying Ibo’s pace, charter a dhow for several days to explore one of the other nearby islands in the Quirimbas Archipelago. Quirimbas Island is a good place to start: you can walk here from Ibo at low tide with a guide, and then return by boat. Once you manage to tear yourself away from the charms of the archi- pelago, turn south – the most straightforward route will take you via Pemba – to the crowded regional hub of Nampula. If you arrive early enough in Nampula, it’s possible to avoid over- nighting here, continuing the same day on to Mozambique Island. Plan at least several days JOHN SEATON CALLAHAN/GETTY IMAGES/FLICKR OPEN © OPEN IMAGES/FLICKR CALLAHAN/GETTY SEATON JOHN exploring this Unesco World Heritage Site. Once back on the mainland, you will need to pass through Nampula for an overnight, before catching the train west to Cuamba. The ride isn’t anywhere near the coast, but it’s scenic and offers fascinating glimpses of local life. After an overnight in Cuamba (where the train arrives late afternoon), continue into Malawi via the Man- dimba border post, and then travel straight on to Lake Malawi. Cape Maclear makes a conveni- ent first stop, with many options for snorkelling, kayaking and relaxing. From Cape Maclear, the route turns north to- wards the scenic beachside outpost of Nkhata Bay, with its fine selection of lodges, kayaking, swimming and diving.