Page 1 Thursday ▲ FINANCIAL: Hartmarx ▲ NEWS: WWD▲ Men’s Corp. aims Joseph Abboud and ▲ RETAIL: Net-a-Porter’s to sell as Roberto Natalie Lord & Taylor to show a whole, Cavalli's Massenet Black Brown, page 12. page 13. new Paris launches fl agship, the Outnet, page 3. page 16. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 5, 2009 • $3.00 WWDTHURSDAYSportswear/Men’s Amazing Grays PARIS – “I’m sure Mr. Dior would have loved these prints,” John Galliano says of the Ikat weave he used for Christian Dior’s fall- winter in the house’s signature grays, worked here into a skirt suit with fur trim. For more on how Dior is upping the luxury ante with its stores and products, see PARIScollections/fall ’09 pages 8 and 9. And to see more designers getting ready for Paris Fashion Week, which kicks into high gear today, see pages 4 to 7. Writedowns Drag Liz To $829 Million Loss, More Expected in ’09 By Whitney Beckett After posting a fourth-quarter loss of $828.9 million, mainly due to a goodwill writedown, Liz Claiborne Inc. is expecting further “meaningful” losses in the first half of 2009 and is eyeing additional cost cuts. Declining to provide 2009 earnings guidance due to “the highly uncertain environment,” Claiborne chief executive officer William L. McComb warned on an earnings call Wednesday that he anticipates no immediate improvement for retail sales in 2009 from the dismal final quarter of 2008. Claiborne’s shares fell 11.4 percent to close at $2.50 Wednesday on the New York Stock Exchange. The company said it took a $693 million impairment charge in the fourth quarter — representing the bulk of its loss — See Claiborne, Page19 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE MAITRE DOMINIQUE BY PHOTO WWD.COM WWDTHURSSportswear/Men’sDAY Dior FASHION 4 French designers get ready for Paris Fashion Week, ™ which hits its stride today. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based GENERAL on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 1 Goodwill writedowns of $693 million on top of a rough economy contributed to Liz Claiborne Inc.’s DRESSED TO THE ‘09 $828.9 million fourth-quarter loss. s 8 Dior continues to ramp up its luxury quotient, The Dress Stands Out as One Smart Garment This Year even as the economic downturn bites. 11 THE BEAT: Junior sportswear companies brace A woman who is ‘dressed to the nines’ is attired In today’s highly competitive retail marketplace, themselves for a bumpy back-to-school ride. flamboyantly or smartly, according to definition. it is entirely possible to get more than you pay for, 13 Bucking the downward trend, Martin Margiela’s Dressing for ’09, however, is less about dressing promises Stoner from Edressme, and that should freestanding stores and corners in Paris logged a smartly and more about dressing intelligently. It is a be welcome news to the 94% of female respondents 21 percent increase in January versus a year ago. new era where a challenging financial environment who reported to the Monitor survey that they plan to 14 Anemic consumer spending, jittery retailers and challenges all women to do more with less—enter, spend the same or less on clothing this year versus last uncertainty about near-term business has put a happily, the dress. year. “Interesting silhouettes, colors and fabrics used chill on the licensing business. “In these tough economic times, purchasing are making even dresses under $99 competitive with a versatile dress that can translate from work to a more expensive designer offerings,” notes Stoner. 16 Net-a-porter.com will unveil a new brand, night out is a smart purchase,” says designer Lauren One of the fabrics that resonate with women Outnet.com, a discount designer outlet that will Moffat. “It is like having two dresses in one.” today is cotton. “We are seeing cotton’s share of the launch next month with more than 200 brands. The right dress enriches a wardrobe, without market going up and women are choosing it for both 18 Adidas AG reported net profits leaped 151 taxing the mind when trying to casual and dressier apparel,” Bastos percent to $71.2 million in the fourth quarter. select something to wear, promises says. “Consumers love cotton Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................27 Joanne Stoner, Chief Executive “In these tough economic times, because it is so easy to care for. Officer of Edressme, an online Our data tell us that most women TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. dress retailer. “Dresses require purchasing a versatile dress prefer to clean their garments WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 much less thinking when putting that can translate from work to at home, versus dry cleaning, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. together an outfit,” she says. “The a night out is a smart purchase.” because it allows them to be wise VOLUME 197, NO. 47. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with ease of throwing on a dress in about their spending.” When one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June – Lauren Moffatt, Designer and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division the morning has spoiled many asked by the Monitor survey how of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services women because it is no-fuss, they typically wash a dress, 53% of provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage practical and there are so many female respondents say that they paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. fashionable choices.” wash a dress in cold water and 19% in warm water. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian “A dress is a good investment piece because a Only 26% say that they dry clean. The respondents addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS great fitting style can be worn day or night by just also claim that they typically wash or dry clean a CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA changing your shoes or outerwear,” adds Kate dress after two wearings. “Women can get good use 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all Ciepluch, Fashion Director of online retailer out of a dress; it’s that simple,” says Bastos. editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shopbop.com. Even beyond the workplace, the dress is a For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online That versatility clearly holds an appeal for the garment that women can wear for every occasion. at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services majority of women. Almost seven out of ten female “There’s a wide variety of styles, silhouettes and that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please respondents (68%) tell the Cotton Incorporated trends in dresses today,” says Stoner. “Edressme has advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT ™ RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, Lifestyle Monitor survey that they prefer to wear just over four thousand styles of dresses for all occasions, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR one comfortable outfit all day, rather than changing from casual to office dresses, cocktail, evening and ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER clothes to fit different activities. formal gowns.” MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE “Dresses are the mainstay of many women’s In these tough economic times, it is becoming ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. wardrobes for several reasons,” Moffatt observes. increasingly less surprising that women are looking “They are go-to pieces, you know how you feel in it to economize with even the most formal of dresses, and you don’t have to worry about what to wear with Stoner observes. “There truly is an element of ‘Can I it. It is a total look in one piece. Any accessorizing or wear it again?’ among brides and bridesmaids when DAILY Right now fashion layering is just icing on the cake.” picking out bridesmaids dresses. It’s less about trend “ Women already appreciate the value of the dress; or color and more about getting greater life and value QUOTE should be a morale according to Monitor data, female respondents out of the dress,” says Stoner.