Maribel’s Guide to San Sebastián © January 2016 SAN SEBASTIÁN-DONOSTIA (GIPÚZKOA) INDEX Web Resources and Travel Planning - Page 2 Donostia’s Markets - Page 13 Getting to San Sebastián - Page 2 Performing Arts - Page 14 San Sebastián-Donostia - Page 3 Cooking Schools and Classes - Page 15 Sightseeing - Page 4 Thalassotherapy - Page 16 • Kursaal Performing Arts Center Beaches - Page 17 • Zurriola Bridge Maribel’s San Sebastián Dining Guide - Page 18 Alderi-Elder Park • • Pintxos in the Parte Vieja - Page 19 Peine del Viento, “Comb of the Wind” • • Pintxos in the Gros Quarter - Page 26 Mount Igueldo • • Pintxos in El Centro - Page 29 Palacio de Miramar • • Creative and Contemporary Cuisine - Page 30 Mont Urgell • • Dining with Panoramic Views - Page 33 Naval Museum • • Dining on Mondays - Page 34 Aquarium • • Moderately Priced Fine Dining - Page 36 Island of Santa Clara • • Casual Dining at the Pier - Page 36 Constitution Square • • Dining in El Antiguo - Page 37 Basílica de Santa María del Coro • • Gastronomic Splurges outside the city - Page 38 • Catedral del Buen Pastor Craft Cocktails - Page 39 • Iglesia de San Vicente • Cristo de la Mota My Shopping Guide - Page 40 • Victoria Eugenia Theatre Lodging in San Sebastian-Donostia Surfboards and Bike Rentals - Page 9 • On or near La Concha Beach - Page 42 Museo Chillida-Leku - Page 10 • In The Old Quarter, the Parte Vieja - Page 45 City Tours - Page 11 • In The Gros Quarter, near Zurriola Beach - Page 45 Private Pintxos Tours - Page 12 • Staying in “El Antiguo” - Page 46 Maribel’s Guides for the Sophisticated Traveler ™ Page !1 Maribel’s Guide to San Sebastián © January 2016 WEB RESOURCES AND TRAVEL PLANNING INFORMATION ON THE WEB • Euskadi Tourism - tourism.euskadi.eus • Basque Country Tourism - www.basquecountry-tourism.com • San Sebastian Tourism - www.sansebastianturismo.com • International Jazz Festival - www.heinekenjazzaldia.com • San Sebastian Film Festival - www.sansebastianfestival.com TRAVEL PLANNING SERVICES Exclusive Travel Planning Services by Iberian Traveler & Maribel's Guides. Contact Maribel to arrange a custom itinerary for your trip to Spain, Portugal, Paris or southwest France. Travel planning services are fee based, depending on the length of your stay. The fee includes the preparation of a customized, day-to-day itinerary based on the client’s specific interests/travel style/budget, customized sightseeing, dining and shopping guides for each destination, booking of all accommodations, making restaurant reservations, securing of performing arts tickets (theater/opera/ballet/flamenco), setting up winery visits, cooking classes, personal guide services or special day tours, car rentals and consultation by email or phone. USA Tel: (206) 861-9008 / (206) 364-6723 Email: [email protected] GETTING TO SAN SEBASTIÁN The San Sebastián airport is located in Hondarribia with connections from Madrid, Barcelona, Málaga and Sevilla. The Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne airport in the Pays Basque (France) is 25 minutes away along the A-63, while the Calatrava designed Bilbao International Airport is one hour away by bus or car. There is regular bus service between San Sebastián and the airport in Hondarribia on the Lurralde Bus (www.lurraldebus.eus), which leaves from Gipuzkoa Plaza in San Sebastián- Donostia. Cost is 1,65€ one-way. Served by train from Madrid, Barcelona and Paris, the station, Estación del Norte, is in the center of the city. There is also a narrow-gauge railway, the Metro Donostialdea, locally known as the “Topo”, connecting San Sebastián with Bilbao and the villages along the coast, as well as the train station in Hendaye (France). Maribel’s Guides for the Sophisticated Traveler ™ Page !2 Maribel’s Guide to San Sebastián © January 2016 SAN SEBASTIÁN-DONOSTIA Compact, elegant, sophisticated and stately, San Sebastián, once a simple fishing village, it has evolved into a Parisian looking city filled with Belle Époque architecture. Called “La Bella Easo”, the pearl of the Cantabrian Sea, it is considered one of Spain’s most beautiful destinations. Like its neighbor Biarritz just up the coast in the French Basque Country, San Sebastián is a mix of Basque charm, sophistication and savior-vivre, and its cuisine widely considered some of the best in the world. Isla Santa Clara in La Concha Bay Made famous during the second half of the 19th century by the Spanish Royal Family who came here to take the waters, San Sebastián, the capital of Gipuzkoa, later became the official summer residence of the Spanish Court. You’ll marvel at the elegance of both the spectacular turn of the century homes and settings along the beautiful crescent shaped La Concha Beach, which, along with El Sardinero in Santander, is the prettiest stretch of sand in Spain. CAPITAL OF CULTURE 2016 San Sebastián-Donostia was selected in June 2011 to be the European Capital of Culture in 2016 (www.dss2016.eu). WHEN TO VISIT July and August are the busiest months of the tourist season, when most Spaniards take their month long vacations; so lodging will be at a premium. Please book ASAP. The winters are very rainy. September is the ideal month. Early June is also good, as the high season rates normally don’t start until July 1. The water will be warm enough for swimming (although it’s a Maribel’s Guides for the Sophisticated Traveler ™ Page !3 Maribel’s Guide to San Sebastián © January 2016 bit too nippy for timid tastes), but it does rain quite a bit, for every four days in San Sebastián, perhaps only one will be a great beach day! DONOSTI CUP The 25th International Youth Football Tournament (www.donosticup.com) will be held from 3-9 July 2016, attracting more than 50,000 players and their families from around the world, so plan accordingly. The 3rd International Football Tournament of Veterans, the “Donosti Masters Cup”, will be from 3-5 June. SIGHTSEEING IN DONOSTIA San Sebastián, a great walking town! Take a self-guided walking tour to discover the spirit of this beautiful city on the bay. Start at Avenida Zurriola, which runs past the Rafael Moneo designed giant translucent cubes known as the Kursaal Performing Arts Center. Cross the Urumea river via the Zurriola bridge, which you take you to the Alameda del Boulevard, which marks the limit between the old and new sections of the city and in summer fills with musicians playing around the gazebo, cyclists and folks filling its outdoor cafés. This avenue will lead you to the Alderi-Elder Park, facing the sea, where you’ll see the elegant City Hall, Ayuntamiento, to your right, built in 1882 as a Casino. You’ll now be facing stunning La Concha beach. The crowd walking from La Concha to Ondarreta Beach and back on a “beach day” You can either stroll along the beach with the Donostiarras, or walk above it, along the Paseo de la Concha boardwalk, beautifully tiled and edged with an elegant, Art Nouveau, white wrought- iron balustrade. This promenade along the bay will lead you through a tunnel under the grounds of Miramar Palace and finally to Ondarreta beach. Maribel’s Guides for the Sophisticated Traveler ™ Page !4 Maribel’s Guide to San Sebastián © January 2016 Walk to your left past the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra and take a stroll with the locals down the magnificent, crescent-shaped La Concha Beach, one of Europe’s most beautiful and elegant urban beaches, sheltered between Mount Urgell and Mount Igueldo. On a sunny summer day everyone will be out on the beach doing the same brisk beach stroll. During low tide, one can make a complete beach walk from the northern end of La Concha to the far end of Ondarreta Beach, the city’s third, family-friendly beach. One of Europe’s finest beach strolls! Continuing past the beach and the Royal Tennis Club, whose Wimbledon Pub is open to the public, you will come to Paseo de Eduardo Chillida, which leads you past Restaurant Branka to the westernmost tip of the bay, where the Atlantic waves crash against huge boulders. Here you’ll see an installation of three immense iron sculptures, the Peine del Viento, the “Comb of the Wind”, by Eduardo Chillida. Each piece of this work weighs in at over ten tons. Chillida’s “Peine del Viento”, Comb of the Wind, at the end of Ondarreta Beach While the magnificent La Concha Beach attracts the most walkers, Zurriola to the east is a magnet for surfers and Ondarreta Beach the most family-friendly as it provides a children’s playground and pool, chiringuitos, stands for ice cream or sandwiches, handicapped access, a Wi-Fi zone, kayak rentals, tents, a jogging trail and a bike trail, ping pong tables and beach volley ball. Maribel’s Guides for the Sophisticated Traveler ™ Page !5 Maribel’s Guide to San Sebastián © January 2016 Ondarreta Beach is situated in the aristocratic neighborhood of Antiguo, an area filled with elegant examples of Basque architecture steps from the beach. Take a stroll along Infanta Beatriz Kalea to see some of these architecturally impressive late 19th century villas. After passing the Royal Tennis Club you may want to take the funicular up to the summit of Mount Igueldo for the spectacular views of La Concha Bay and mountains at sunset. This charming little red funicular, with a large Coca-Cola sign painted on the first car, was inaugurated in 1912. It’s pulled up the steep incline by a series of pulleys and motors and runs every 15 minutes. The Panoramic view terraces on Mount Igueldo are open daily. There is also a small children’s amusement park, which this year is celebrating its 100th anniversary. Miramar Palace, the Royal Residence On your return from your funicular ride, walk back above the beaches on the promenade and stop to stroll the grounds of the Palacio de Miramar, the Miramar Palace.