Introducing THE RICKY ID CHAIN BAG NEW YORK PARIS LONDON MILAN BEVERLY HILLS BAL HARBOUR DUBAI HONG KONG SHANGHAI TOKYO §3\IV¨ FEK MR QEXXI GVSGSHMPI'PqQIRGI FYPP GEPJWOMR ERH &EVqRME GEPJWOMR &IPXIH GSEX MR HSYFPIJEGI GEWLQIVI 7XVEMKLX TERXW MR PEQFWOMR &SSXW MR GEPJWOMR ,IVQIWGSQ (, %' )$ " %')$" DRIVEN BY DESIRE $+# *)% NEW. PURE COLOR ENVY Sculpting Lipstick CLICK !%'*+ 870 MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK ©2014 COACH® ©2014 FALL 2014 Rhyder 24 in gunmetal Shearling Coat on Lexi Studded Coach Taxi Tote in black Coach proudly supports the High Line. coach.com ©2014 COACH® ©2014 FALL 2014 Sport Messenger in black Crosby Duffle Coat on David Coach proudly supports the High Line. coach.com women’s style september 2014 56 EDITOR’S LETTER 62 ON THE COVER 64 CONTRIBUTORS 68 COLUMNISTS on Memory 71 THE WSJ. FIVE The five hottest items from the runway. 176 STILL LIFE Agnes Gund The philanthropist and art patron shares a few of her favorite things. Photography by Grant Cornett What’s News. 85 Tomas Maier Launches a Line of Informal Attire Reviving the Art of Irish Crystal 88 A Dressing Table With Retro Glamour Bally’s New Design Director Debuts His Collection Three Bold Eyeliner Looks from Fall Runways 90 Chanel Embraces Its Jewelry Legacy Photographer Mona Kuhn’s Stark Western Visions Comfort Food–Champagne Pairings 92 Alexander Wang’s First Scent for Balenciaga Artist Allan McCollum’s Math-Inspired Works Atelier Swarovski’s Gem-Studded Jewelry 94 British Country-House Retreats (Sans Pomp) Delvaux Opens Three New Cosmopolitan Shops Assael Pendants Benefit Endangered Species 96 The Global Growth of Health-Food Darling Chia 98 Q&As With Three Top Fitness Gurus ON THE COVER Daria Werbowy, photographed by Josh Olins and styled by Alastair McKimm. Gucci coat, shirt, jeans and loafers, Eres bra, Louis Vuitton belt, Tasaki Collection by Thakoon necklace and Jennifer Fisher cuf and ring. For details see Sources, page 174. 170 THIS PAGE Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani in her Milan home, photographed by Angelo Pennetta. 156 164 From lef: A portrait of Keith Richards by Saint Laurent creative designer Hedi Slimane; a desk in designer Ilse Crawford’s London ofce, photographed by Martyn Thompson. Market report. the exchange. 105 TECHNICOLOR DREAM COATS 111 TRACKED: SARA BLAKELY 118 L.A.’S ART INSIDER The self-made billionaire behind Bettina Korek’s guide on where to Fall for outerwear that sweetens Spanx is an inventor at heart. go and what to see in L.A. the season in a candy shop’s worth By Christopher Ross By Kevin West of colors. Photography by Audra Melton Photography by Driu & Tiago Styling by Zara Zachrisson 114 FIRST IN HER CLASS Niki Nakayama’s dishes are inspired by ancient Japanese kaiseki meals. By Maria Fontoura Photography by Aya Brackett 116 MOTION REFLECTOR Stephen Galloway coaches models in the art of physical expression. By Christopher Ross GET WSJ. SATURDAY A Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal gives a weekly fix of smart style and culture. Includes Of Duty, a guide to your not-at-work life; Review, the best in ideas, books and culture; and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www.subscribe.wsj .com/getweekend. Follow us on Twitter and Instagram @WSJMag. 134 85 “WHO NEEDS ANOTHER From lef: Fashion designer Tomas EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE Maier; the entry court DESIGNER COLLECTION?” at boutique maven Linda Dresner’s —TOMAS MAIER Michigan home. women’s style issue. 122 THE GRAY LADY 148 AN UNLIKELY 156 THROUGH HEDI’S EYES For a cold-weather look, bundle up POWERHOUSE Saint Laurent designer Hedi Slimane in cozy, oversize layers and warm Art dealer Marian Goodman, shows 15 years of his rock photography woolens in the color of the season. who has made a career of bucking in Paris this month. Photography by Lachlan Bailey trends, opens a London outpost By William Van Meter Styling by Alastair McKimm this fall. Photography by Hedi Slimane By Carol Kino 134 THE FORTRESS OF Portrait by Thomas Struth 164 FEELING ALL THE MODERNISM FEELINGS Linda Dresner built a minimalist 152 CROC ROCKS Ilse Crawford’s design firm has concrete home in the Detroit The most coveted bags of the season become a global presence by valuing suburbs where her singular aesthetic combine ladylike structure with the normal over the spectacular. reigns supreme. exotic leathers. By Sarah Medford By Lynn Yaeger Photography by Maciek Kobielski Photography by Martyn Thompson Photography by Adrian Gaut Fashion Editor David Thielebeule 170 THE FRANCA FILES 140 URBAN LEGEND As Vogue Italia celebrates its 50th Supermodel Daria Werbowy anniversary, its editor’s vision still captures efortless cool in generates shock and awe. extravagant furs, silk shirts By Tim Blanks and worn-in blue jeans. Photography by Angelo Pennetta Photography by Josh Olins Styling by Alastair McKimm FROM LEFT: BILLY KIDD; ADRIAN GAUT EDITOR’S LETTER STRIKE A POSE ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS MODEL BEHAVIOR Anubis photographs Bast (both wearing Lanvin) for a fall fashion shoot, with a sly photobomb from Who. UTUMN MAY BE a season of retreat for One thing that Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca We are lucky enough to have another forward- Mother Nature, but for fashion it’s a time of Sozzani will never be accused of is having a lack of thinker on our cover—supermodel Daria Werbowy. discovery, novelty and reinvention. Proving imagination—or boldness. As Tim Blanks details In 2008, Daria wasn’t afraid to step of the model- that the fall can be as full of vitality as a in his profile of the beloved editrix, Sozzani has ing treadmill when she realized she wasn’t entirely Aspring garden, our September women’s style issue overseen one of the fashion world’s most inventive fulfilled. Now she’s back and more in demand than celebrates creative renewal and second acts. publications—now celebrating its 50th anniversary— ever—and not just in front of the lens: She photo- Not content to be one of the most influential by always giving her photographers license to be graphed the fall Equipment ads, the beginning of an names on the runway, Saint Laurent creative director provocative, at times even outrageous. amazing supermodel second act. Hedi Slimane has for years enjoyed a second career as Our feature on the art dealer Marian Goodman, a photographer. As the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves who opens a new gallery in London in October, shows Saint Laurent mounts an exhibition this September that consistency and loyalty can be revolutionary celebrating 15 years of Slimane’s iconic images of qualities in a trend-oriented gallery system. By play- musicians such as Lou Reed and Keith Richards, we ing the long game with artists like Gerhard Richter, Kristina O’Neill speak with the multitasking visionary about what Goodman has established a reputation as one of [email protected] has shaped his aesthetic. the field’s most forward-thinking minds. Instagram: kristina_oneill 56 WSJ. MAGAZINE 5IFPSZ DPBU 5IFPSZDPBU t t FE SBCCJU GVS DPBU .PUIFS EZ OHHPXOtBOEIVOESFETNPSF OH HPXO t BOE IVOESFET NPSF 8B 8B SB SB 7F 7F t t &MJ[BCFUI BOE +BNFT &MJ[BCFUIBOE+BNFTEZFESBCCJUGVSDPBU .PUIFS t t $BOBMJ TVJU E#BLFS-POEPOGMPSBMQSJOUESFTTBOETIPFT E#BLFS-POEPOGMPSBMQSJOUESFTTBOETIPFT t 5F 5F JU[NBO CPPU JU[NBOCPPU t t 8F 8F #VSDI CPPUJF SZ PSZ#VSDICPPUJFt $BOBMJTVJU 5P 5 RVBTLJSU 4UVBSU "RVB TLJSU 4UVBSU " MFYJT#JUUBSOFDLMBDF t " t VUDI "MFYJT #JUUBS OFDLMBDF DM 'VSTMBCFMFEUPTIPXDPVOUSZPGPSJHJOPGJNQPSUFEGVS 'VST MBCFMFE UP TIPX DPVOUSZ PG PSJHJO PG JNQPSUFE GVS MFYJT#JUUBSCSBDFMFU " ,BSFO .JMMFO ESFTT ,BSFO.JMMFOESFTT t t BOBMJ TVJU t$ %JBOF WPO 'VSTUFOCFSH KVNQTVJU BOE %JBOFWPO'VSTUFOCFSHKVNQTVJUBOEDMVUDI RVBIBU 3FCFDDB.JOLPGGCBH JODFTIPFTt $BOBMJTVJU " 7 QSJOUFEKFBO QSJOUFE KFBO "RVB IBU 3FCFDDB .JOLPGG CBH "MFYJT #JUUBS CSBDFMFU UVSUMFOFDL BOE TLJSU 7JODF TIPFT UVSUMFOFDLBOETLJSU EDITOR IN CHIEF Kristina O’Neill CREATIVE DIRECTOR Magnus Berger EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Knutsen MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher FASHION NEWS/FEATURES DIRECTOR Elisa Lipsky-Karasz PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname GLOBAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Stephanie Arnold DESIGN DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif BUSINESS MANAGER Julie Checketts Andris BRAND DIRECTOR Jillian Maxwell PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Jennifer Pastore MARKETING COORDINATOR Elisa Handbury MAGAZINE COORDINATOR Tessa Ku ARTICLES EDITOR Megan Conway EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, NEWS CORP Rupert Murdoch STYLE DIRECTOR David Thielebeule CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, NEWS CORP Robert Thomson CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, DOW JONES & COMPANY William Lewis MARKET EDITOR Preetma Singh EDITOR IN CHIEF, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL Gerard Baker SENIOR DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL ART DIRECTOR Tanya Moskowitz Michael W. Miller EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, WSJ. WEEKEND Emily Nelson PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado HEAD OF GLOBAL SALES, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christopher Ross Trevor Fellows VP MULTIMEDIA SALES Christina Babbits, Chris Collins, COPY CHIEF Ali Bahrampour Ken DePaola, Etienne Katz, Robert Welch VP VERTICAL MARKETS Marti Gallardo PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Scott White HEAD OF DIGITAL ADVERTISING AND INTEGRATION Romy Newman ASSOCIATE MARKET EDITOR Sam Pape VP STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS Evan Chadakof VP AD SERVICES Paul Cousineau RESEARCH CHIEF John O’Connor VP INTEGRATED MARKETING Paul Tsigrikes EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, WSJ CUSTOM STUDIOS Randa Stephan JUNIOR DESIGNER Dina Ravvin EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, GLOBAL