ENCYCLOPEDIA OF NEEDLEWORK THÉRÈSE DE DILLMONT ENGLISH EDITION Encyclopedia of Needlework Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse De Dillmont, English Edition. Values-Driven Homeschool Library Edition, Copyright © 2011 by Marc and Cynthia Carrier. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any way by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of the author except as provided by USA copyright law. Published by Values-Driven® (www.valuesdrivenpublishing.com) 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS Preface......................................................................................................................................................5 Plain Sewing ............................................................................................................................................7 Mending .................................................................................................................................................19 Single and Cut Open-Work....................................................................................................................25 Net and Damask Stitches .......................................................................................................................47 White Embroidery..................................................................................................................................65 Flat Stitch and Gold Embroidery ...........................................................................................................91 Tapestry and Linen Embroidery...........................................................................................................105 Knitting ................................................................................................................................................139 Crochet Work.......................................................................................................................................177 Tatting ..................................................................................................................................................243 Macramé...............................................................................................................................................259 Netting..................................................................................................................................................299 Irish Lace..............................................................................................................................................331 Laces of Different Kinds......................................................................................................................357 Miscellaneous Fancy Work..................................................................................................................389 Practical Directions ..............................................................................................................................415 3 Encyclopedia of Needlework 4 Preface Author’s Preface: The absolute want of any comprehensive book on needlework—such an one as contains both verbal and pictorial descriptions of everything included under the name of needlework—has led me to put into the serviceable form of an Encyclopedia, all the knowledge and experience, which years of unceasing study and practice have enabled me to accumulate on the subject, with the hope that diligent female workers of all ages, may be able, by its means to instruct themselves in every branch of plain and fancy needlework. All the patterns given, even the most insignificant, were worked afresh for the purpose, and thus, not merely faithful representations, but also lucid and intelligible explanations of the same, are secured. In order that my readers may have something besides the dull theory, the work is enlivened by a number of useful patterns, some new, some derived from the artistic productions of such countries and epochs as have become famous by special excellence in the domain of needlework. Though, at first sight, the reproduction of many of these patterns may seem to present insuperable difficulties, they will, after a careful study of the text, and exact attention to the directions given, prove easy to carry out. Many of these interesting designs are drawn from private collections, whose owners, with great kindness, placed their treasures at my disposal, to copy and borrow from at discretion, for which I desire to take the present opportunity, of tendering them my warmest thanks. The choice of colours and material—a difficult matter to many—my readers will find rendered comparatively easy to them by the notes affixed to the illustrations; and I may point out, that most of the patterns were worked with D.M.C cottons, which enjoy the well-earned reputation of being, the very best of their kind, in the market of the world. Experience has convinced me that, in many instances, these cottons may with advantage take the place of wool, linen thread, and even silk. If this work meet with indulgent judges, and prove really useful, I shall find ample reward in that fact for the trouble and difficulties that have unavoidably attended its completion. Publisher’s Preface: This volume is an English translation from the French, done in a earlier era. Therefore, the language may seem somewhat stilted to our modern ears. However, we did not want to alter the text significantly, so any traces of this archaic language remain in this newly published edition. The illustrations have been rendered as well as can be done, considering the quality of the images at our disposal for this publication. Where the quality is lacking, we have tried to provide enlarged images to bring out the detail as much as possible. We hope you enjoy this large-format, economical edition of a classic work. 5 Encyclopedia of Needlework 6 Plain Sewing Plain Sewing Many, on opening the Encyclopedia of needlework will be disposed to exclaim as they read the heading of this first section: What is the use of describing all the old well-known stitches, when machines have so nearly superseded the slower process of hand-sewing? To this our reply is that, of all kinds of needlework, Plain Sewing needs to be most thoroughly learned, as being the foundation of all. Those who are able to employ others to work for them, should at least know how to distinguish good work from bad, and those who are in less fortunate circumstances, have to be taught how to work for themselves. Position of the body and hands.—Before describing different kinds of stitches, a word should be said as to the position of the body and hands when at work. Long experience has convinced me that no kind of needlework necessitates a stooping or cramped attitude. To obviate which, see that your chair and table suit each other in height, and that you so hold your work as hardly to need to bend your head at all. The practice of fastening the work to the knee, besides being ungraceful, is injurious to the health. Needles.—These should be of the best quality. To test a needle, try to break it; if it resist, and then break clean in two, the steel is good; if it bend without breaking, or break without any resistance, it is bad. Never use a bent needle, it makes ugly and irregular stitches, and see that the eye, whether round or egg-shaped, be well-drilled, that it may not fray or cut the thread. Long or half-long needles are the best for white work, long ones for dress- making, and longer ones still, with long eyes, for darning. A stock of each, from No 5 to 12, is advised. The needle should always be a little thicker than the thread, to make an easy passage for it through the stuff. To keep needles from rusting, strew a little stone alum in the packets, and workers whose hands are apt to get damp, should have a small box of it handy, to powder their fingers with. Blackened needles can be made quite bright again by drawing them through an emery cushion. Scissors.—Scissors are a very important accessory of the work-table, and two varieties are indispensable; a pair of large ones for cutting-out, with one point blunt and the other sharp, the latter to be always held downwards; and a pair of smaller ones with two sharp points. The handles should be large and round; if at all tight, they tire and disfigure the hand. Thimble.—Steel thimbles are the best; bone are very liable to break, and silver ones are not deeply enough pitted, to hold the needle. A thimble should be light, with a rounded top and flat rim. Fig. 1. Knotting the thread into the needle The thread.—Except for tacking, your thread should never be more than from 40 to 50 c/m. long. If the thread is in skeins, it does not matter which end you begin with, but if you use reeled cotton, thread your needle with the end that points to the reel, when you cut it; as the other end will split, and unravel, when twisted from left to right, which is generally done, to facilitate the process of threading. The cotton should always be cut, as it is weakened by breaking. Knotting the thread into the needle (fig. 1).—When the thread becomes inconveniently short, and you do not want take a fresh one, it may be knotted into the needle, thus: bring it round the forefinger close to the needle, cross it on the inside next to the finger, hold the crossed threads fast, with the thumb draw the needle out through the loop thus formed,