ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:03 Page 232 WEST MAINLAND - ORPHIR MAINLAND - ORPHIR t h wildfowl in winter. Otters g i r y may also be seen in this area, p o c especially in the early morn- n w o ing or late evening. The r C sheltered banks here and at nearby Waulkmill Bay have many interesting plants. Waulkmill Bay is an attrac- tive shallow inlet with very dramatically weathered sandstone rocks and a flat St Nicholas Round Kirk was built around 1122 by Earl Haakon Paulson sandy beach. It can be a m u very pleasant place for a pic- e s u nic, or a dip in the sea on a M y fine day. This is one of the e n k ORPHIR (ON Orfjara, land The A964 runs west from there were often many ships warmer places to bathe in r joined to an island at low Kirkwall through Orphir, moored in this great natural Orkney, due to the wide, flat O water) forms the north shore affording many fine views harbour. expanse of sand which heats of Scapa Flow. While the over Scapa Flow along the up on a sunny day and thus parish may lack the spectac- way. The first viewpoint is Hobbister RSPB Reserve imparts a few degrees to the ular archaeological sites and from Greenigoe (HY405075) (HY390065) lies on both sea as the tide comes in. scenery of other parts of from where oil tankers, and sides of the road. There is The 1757 Kirk, now gone, beside the mostly-demolished Round Kirk Orkney, it still has much to sometimes warships, as well parking here and a pleasant Kirbister Loch is a good offer the visitor, including as the oil slick from HMS walk along the track which trout fishing loch and an The Orkney Islands Council ings were probably con- beaches, wildlife and histor- Royal Oak, may be seen. leads to the Highland Park excellent place for wind- maintains the Orkneyinga structed from wood and turf ical sites. During the two World Wars Distillery’s peat cuttings. surfers. The landscape here Saga Centre near the Round on stone foundations. The Reserve offers fine is much more agricultural Kirk. This tells the story of moorland scenery with and there are many houses the Norse Earls of Orkney The Round Kirk is thought expansive views of Scapa and farms dotted about. using the Orkneyinga Saga to be the church built by Earl Flow. Hen Harriers, Merlin, Orphir was important in and an audiovisual display. Haakon Paulson, to the plan Peregrine, Short-eared Owls Norse times and apart from The colourful tales are thus of the Church of the Holy and Red-throated Divers all the St Nicholas Round placed in their historical Sepulchre, on his return frequent the area. Kirk (HY334043) at the Bu, context. The many places from Jerusalem about 1123, there are the remains of a with Viking connections in in atonement for the murder The low cliffs facing Scapa Norse farm, with hall and Orkney are highlighted. of Earl Magnus. Previously Flow are a good vantage watermill, complete with known as the Girth House Loch of Kirbister point from which to view lade. The Earl’s Bu mentioned in (ON Grid, sanctuary, or the Sagas was probably peace), the church was Panoramic view of Scapa Flow from Hobbister somewhere in this vicinity. Excavations confirm the Round Kirk - window in apse existence of substantial ruins, some of which are exposed near the graveyard. Earl Thorfinn the Mighty may have lived here and cer- tainly Earl Paul and his son Haakon both did, at least for part of the year. The build- 232 233 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:03 Page 234 WEST MAINLAND - ORPHIR MAINLAND - ORPHIR largely demolished in 1757, made his escape to Aurrida to build a new church, itself Firth and then via Damsay to now long gone. Bishop William in Egilsay. Recently a 10th century verti- Another story shows how cal-axis watermill was dis- Iceland and Orkney were in covered next to the church close communication in the yard here. The lade, wheel 11th century. Earl Sigurd chamber and tail-race are all was hearing the story of the still lined with stones. This burning of Njal and his fam- type of mill was common in ily in Iceland from Gunnar Orkney and Shetland until Lambison, who when asked German High Seas Fleet in Scapa Flow on 28 May 1919, with the WWI Houton flying boat base in the foreground - from Midland Hill recent times. The Click Mill how they bore the burning, should make reservations in Orfjara refers to, is tidal and (HY326228), near Dounby said that one of them had advance to ensure there is a makes the Bay of Houton an is a restored 19th century given way to tears. Kari, a space for their car. Tel excellent harbour. example. An extensive mid- friend of Njal’s who had just (01856) 811397. den deposit here contained arrived from Iceland, on The Hall of Clestrain (ON much domestic refuse, hearing this drew his sword The Vikings called Houton Klett-strond, rocky beach) including fish bones from and beheaded Gunnar. Bay “Medallandshofn”, and was built about 1769 by Cod very much larger than Blood flew all over the Earl, the bay is indeed well shel- Patrick Honeyman of those caught locally today who ordered Kari killed, but tered, with a shore very suit- Graemsay. The estate factor and a runic inscription on a no one would do the deed. It able for pulling up ships. In was the Stromness mer- cattle rib. Much remains to was decided that he had only late 1263, King Haakon chant, John Rae, who be discovered at this inter- done what he had the right to Haakonson beached his ship became the local agent for esting site. do. Kristsudin at Houton, along the Hudson’s Bay Company. Winter dawn over Scapa Flow and Houton with the rest of his battered His fourth son, John, the While Paul Haakonson was Houton takes its name from fleet after the disastrous famous Arctic explorer, was still Earl, Sweyn Asleifson the nearby headland (ON foray to the Clyde. The born here in 1813. made a dramatic escape Hofud), and is the departure largest vessel yet built by the through a window here, after point of the ferry to Hoy and Norse, she was said to have Rae discovered the last link murdering Sweyn Briosteip. Flotta, as well as for the oil been a 37-sesser (bench) in the Northwest Passage This happened at Yule when terminal workers at Flotta. ship, which implies a crew and established what had the Earls usually invited The ferry Hoy Head does of at least 100 men. The happened to the Franklin many people to the hall to several return trips per day Holm of Houton (ON Expedition (the British join in the celebrations. He and passengers with cars Orfirisey, the island which Naval Expedition led by Sir John Franklin in 1845), but Kirbister Loch on an icy winter morning Hoy Hills and the Bring Deeps from Scorra Dale was condemned by the establishment for reporting Waulkmill has a fine sandy beach that the survivors of this Expedition had resorted to cannibalism. The house is in classical style with pavilions, front steps and has three floors, but is unusual in being square. It is approached by a fine driveway which leads to 234 235 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:03 Page 236 WEST MAINLAND - ORPHIR MAINLAND - ORPHIR WALKS AND VIEWPOINTS From the Round Kirk there is a footpath to the shore which leads along the coast to Breck (HY346038). The Kirk and Viking ruins con- trast strongly with the Oil Terminal in the background. There are lovely views across Scapa Flow from the Searchlight mounting below Houton Head low shore. Either return via the road or Park Cottage - an old croft above Houton continue along the coast to Swanbister Bay, where there photographer Tom Kent cap- Wild flowers The roadsides tured in late 1918 of the of Hobbister Brae are among is a pier used in World War I ORPHIR German Fleet at anchor the best places in Orkney to and the Hillock of Breakna ATTRACTIONS (HY353051), which may be comes easily to mind. see Primroses, or May a broch. Further east, seals Flowers. The many side Greenigoe viewpoint Hobbister RSPB Reserve may be hauled up on There is another good roads and tracks with uncut panoramic view over Scapa verges are excellent sites to Waulkmill Bay Smoogro Skerry, while the Loch of Kirbister Flow from Houton Head. seek out interesting plants World War II gun mounting on Houton Head low cliffs of Waulkmill Bay St Nicholas Round Kirk shelter many wild flowers. The Barrel of Butter is so and insects in summer. Orkneyinga Saga Centre the building. Inside the Hall Museum, which “will be a There is a bridge over the named because its owner Waulkmill Bay with its shel- Coastal walk Bu to Breck today little remains, except venue for the storage, col- Ward Hill of Orphir Mill Burn, which is an had to pay the Earl a barrel tered banks and surrounding the large windows (though lection, conservation, Bay of Houton excellent place to gather of butter in skat. It looks moorland is an especially many are bricked up), a two- research and display of Midland Hill viewpoint Mussels just so long as there remarkably like a submarine good place to look for wild Military sites, Houton metre length of metal banis- boats and associated boat is an “r” in the month.