Thailand Phuket & Andaman Coast (Chapter) Edition 14th Edition, February 2012 Pages 93 PDF Page Range 602-693 Coverage includes: Ranong Province, Ranong Town, Ko Chang, Ko Phayam, Laem Son National Park, Phang-Nga Province, Ko Phra Thong & Ko Ra, Khao Sok National Park, Khao Lak & Around, Surin Islands Marine National Park, Similan Islands Marine National Park, Phang-Nga Town & Ao Phang-Nga, Around Phang- Nga, Ko Yao, Phuket Island, Ko Sireh, Laem Phanwa, Rawai, Hat Kata, Hat Karon, Hat Patong, Hat Kamala, Hat Surin, Ao Bang Thao, Sirinat National Park, Khao Phra Taew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve, Thalang District, Krabi Province, Krabi Town, Around Ao Nang, Railay, Ko Phi-Phi Don, Ko Phi-Phi Leh, Ko Jum & Ko Si Boya, Ko Lanta, Trang Province, Trang Town, Trang Beaches, Trang Islands, Satun Province, Pak Bara, Ko Bulon Leh, Ko Tarutao Marine National Park, and Satun. Useful Links: Having trouble viewing your file? Head to Lonely Planet Troubleshooting. Need more assistance? 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Ko Phayam ...................608 The Andaman is Thailand’s turquoise coast, that place on a Khao Sok National ‘Travel to Paradise’ poster that makes you want to leave your Park ...............................611 job and live in fl ip-fl ops…forever. And for once, the beauty Khao Lak & Around ...... 612 exceeds the hype. White beaches, cathedral-like limestone Surin Islands Marine cliff s, neon corals and hundreds of jungle-covered isles ex- National Park................ 616 tend down the Andaman Sea from the border of Myanmar Similan Islands Marine to Malaysia. Photographs haven’t yet fully captured the ar- National Park.................617 ray of blues and greens, let alone the soft fi ngers of humidity Ao Phang-Nga .............. 618 on the skin or the feel of the world’s softest sands between Phuket Island ...............622 your toes. For this, you’ll need to visit. The catch is, the destination is no secret and the beaches Hat Patong ...................638 are becoming more crowded with backpackers, package Krabi .............................650 tourists and everyone in between. Flashy resorts are push- Railay ............................ 657 ing out the bamboo shacks and authenticity now hides in Ko Phi-Phi Don .............662 the backroads. But your poster dream is still here – if you’re Ko Lanta .......................669 willing to look. Trang Islands ................680 When to Go Best Places to Eat May to October is the rainy season. At this time, the sea » Trang Night Market (p 676) swells kick up surf, many resorts close and others slash their » Rum Jungle (p 634 ) prices. The Vegetarian Festival is held in late September or October and involves parades of pierced-faced worshippers, » Ka Jok See (p 631 ) endless fi recrackers and great meatless food. » Tatonka (p 647 ) December to January is the high season for tourism. Prices soar, and accommodation and transport need to be Best Places to booked in advance. Stay » Six Senses Hideaway (p621 ) » Mom Tri’s Villa Royale (p 635 ) » Indigo Pearl (p 649 ) » Sukorn Beach Bungalows (p 683 ) » Pak-up Hostel (p 652 ) 603 RANONG PROVINCE the border are only given for two weeks now). Meanwhile, more and more dive oper- The fi rst piece in the Andaman’s puzzle of ators specialising in live-aboard trips to the coastal provinces is the least-populated re- Surin or Similan Islands and Burma Banks gion in Thailand and also its most rainy, are establishing themselves here, adding a with up to eight months of showers per pinch of an expat feel. year. As a result, Ranong’s forests are lush and green, but it means that it’s swampy 1Sights & Activities near the mainland coast where beaches are Ranong lacks the sophistication of your stand- almost nonexistent. ard spa town, but you can sample the waters at sacred, outdoor Rakswarin Hot Springs (Th Petchkasem; admission free; h8am-5pm), 2km Ranong Town ระนอง east of town, and where there are pools hot POP 24,500 enough to boil eggs (65°C); it’s thought to On the eastern bank of the Sompaen River’s possess miraculous healing powers. turbid, tea-brown estuary, the frontier town Siam Hot Spa (%0 7781 3551; www.siamhot of Ranong is a short boat ride – or a fi lthy sparanong.com; 73/3 Th Petchkasem), opposite swim – from Myanmar. This border town the public springs, off ers a more sterilised par excellence (shabby, frenetic, slightly mineral-bath experience. You can dip into a seedy) has a thriving Burmese population jacuzzi (600B) or standard tubs (300B), and (keep an eye out for men wearing tradition- pair it with a salt scrub (550B) or a massage al longyi; Burmese sarong), a clutch of hot (200B). PHUKET & THE ANDAMAN COAST springs and some tremendous street food. Live-aboard diving trips to world-class PHUKET & THE ANDAMAN COAST Today the town is basking in the transit bubble-blowing destinations, including tourism to Ko Phayam more than the visa the Burma Banks and the Surin and Simi- runs it was once known for (visas given at lan Islands, are all the rage in Ranong. Try BORDER CROSSING: RENEWING VISAS AT VICTORIA POINT The dusty, tumbledown port at the southernmost tip of mainland Myanmar was named Victoria Point by the British, but is known as Ko Song (Second Island) by the Thais. The Burmese appellation, Kawthoung, is most likely a corruption of the Thai name. Most trav- ellers come here to renew their visas, but the place also makes an interesting day trip. The easiest way to renew your visa is to opt for one of the ‘visa trips’ (from 1000B per person including visa fees) off ered by travel agencies in Ranong – check out Pon’s RANONG PROVINCE TOWN RANONG (p 607 ) – but it’s relatively easy to do the legwork yourself. ACTIVITIES & SIGHTS When the Thailand–Myanmar border is open, boats to Kawthoung leave from the pier at Saphan Plaa (Pla Bridge, about 5km from the centre of Ranong. Take sŏrng·tăa·ou (small pickup truck, also spelt săwngthăew) 2 from Ranong (20B) to the pier, where captains of long-tail boats will lead you to the immigration window then to their boat (per person one-way/return 100/200B). When negotiating your price, confi rm whether it is per person or per ride, and one-way or return. At the checkpoint, you must inform the authorities that you’re a day visitor – in which case you will pay a fee of US$10 (it must be a crisp bill, you can get one from harbour touts for about 500B). The only big hassles come from ‘helpers’ on the Myanmar side who off er to do everything from carrying your day pack to collecting forms and then ask for hefty tips. It’s possible to stay overnight in one of Victoria Point’s dingy, overpriced hotels but note that this is a rough town and lone women in particular may not feel safe. If you have a valid Myanmar visa in your passport, you’ll be permitted to stay for up to 28 days. If you’re just coming to renew your Thai visa, the whole process will take a minimum of two hours. Bear in mind when you are returning to Thailand that Myanmar’s time is 30 minutes behind Thailand’s. This has caused problems in the past for returning visi- tors who got through Burmese immigration before its closing time only to fi nd the Thai immigration office (h8.30am-4.30pm) closed. It’s a good idea to double-check Thai immigration closing hours when leaving the country – if you don’t get stamped in you’ll have to return to Myanmar again the next day. PHUKET & THE ANDAMAN COAST COAST ANDAMAN THE & PHUKET RANONG PROVINCE RANONG Ao Chumphon M Y A N M A R Ko Kula (B U R M A) 4 Sawi Gulf CHUMPHON of Phuket Thailand & the Chan La-Un Thung Tako Ko Tao Andaman Pak RANONG Laem Riu Kawthoung Coast Isthmus A N D A M A N Ranong of Kra Lang Suan Highlights Chong Tao S E A 4006 1Cavort with Ko Chang curious puff erfi sh Lamae Ang Thong amid the fi ery- Pha To Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Phayam Marine coloured coral of the Laem Son National Park Trang Islands (p 680 ) Hat Bang National Park Chong Ben Kapoe Tha Chana Pha-Ngan 2Scale a limestone Ko Phaluai cliff then recuperate Surin Islands Ko Kam Yai 41 in the blissful jade Marine National Ko Samui Park Ko Kam waters of Railay Noi (p 657 ) Chaiya Laem Sui Chong Samui 3Float in a sea Richelieu 4 Khlong Rock Ao Ban Don Sak of lapis lazuli Tha Chang Don Ko Ra Ngan Yong Yam 4142 while gazing at the 4112 Khuraburi Khanom limestone crags of Ko Ko Khat Phi-Phi (p 662 ) Surat Thani 4014 Ko Phra Phun Phin Thong Kheuan Kanchanadit 4Traipse through Ko Ta Chai Chiaw Lan Khiriratnikhom the veritable Jurassic Ko Kho 401 Sichon Park of Khao Sok Khao National Park (p 611 ) Khao Sok Ko Bon National Park Ban Takhun Na Doem 401 Snorkel over Takua Pa Gulf 5 Similan Islands 401 Phanom Khian Sa Mae Nam Marine National Hat Bang Sak 41 healthy coral reefs SURAT Ta Pi Ban Na San of Park Khlong by day and chill at Hat Bang Niang THANI Krai Thailand low-key reggae bars Hat Khao Lak Kapong at night on Ko Lipe Khao Lak/Lam