Report on Status of Silk Textile Production in Malaysia 2021 EDRIC ONG (MALAYSIA) INTRODUCTION • Contemporary Malaysian textiles are: • Hand-woven: Kain Songket, Kain tenun and ‘Pua Kumbu’ Ikat. • Batik: Hand drawn by wax with ‘canting’ or brush; Hand-block/cap with metal blocks. • Innovative new techniques Hand-woven: Kain Songket/Kain Tenun • Mainly in the East Coast states of Peninsular Malaysia i.e. Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang; and in Sarawak. • Considered as traditional Malay costume and has royal patronage. • Woven in silk, and also in cotton. • Traditional motifs are retained, but a new verve in large floral and geometric patterns are flourishing. ‘Tanoti’ silk ‘kain sampin’ hip wrap ‘Tanoti’ ‘Kain Songket’ from Terengganu ‘Kain Songket’ from Terengganu Traditional Malay ‘kain songket’ ensemble ‘Pua Kumbu’ ( morinda citrifolia natural dye) hand-woven warp ikat textiles of the Iban in Sarawak ‘Pua Kumbu’ ( marsdenia tinctoria indigo natural dye) hand-woven warp ikat silk textiles of the Iban in Sarawak ‘tarum’- marsdenia tinctoria(indigo) ‘akar penawar landak’-fibraurea tinctoria(yellow) ‘Pua Kumbu’ ( fibrauria tinctoria natural dye) hand-woven warp ikat silk textiles of the Iban in Sarawak Rumah Garie revival of ‘akar penawar landak’ (fibraurea tinctoria) Malaysian Silk Batik Silk Batik Fashion in Malaysia Malaysian Batik Innovation • Malaysian batik artisans are now using the ‘textile painting’ method rather than the ‘textile dyeing’ method more prevalent in Indonesia. • The innovation is to be able to apply natural dyes direct onto the textile; and to make it colour-fast. Terengganu batik tulis Piala Seri Endon Batik Home furnishing winning entry Piala Seri Endon Batik Home furnishing Finalist Trengganu batik cap Tradtional Trengganu Batik Cap EO Natural Dye Batik – brush painting technique EO Natural Dye Batik Indigofera tinctoria, Marsdenia tinctoria EO natural dye hand painted batik (fully waxed, dipped dyed) EDRIC ONG ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘BUGAKU’ COLLECTION ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘BUGAKU’ COLLECTION ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘BUGAKU’ COLLECTION ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EO ‘squirrel foot ferns’ series on silk Current Status • The Covid 19 pandemic has adversely affected the entire Silk Textile Industry in Malaysia • Domestic markets such as the National Crafts Fair and other state level fairs were closed • Lock down situation and movement controls prevents festivals and weddings and events being held. • Therefore there is no demand for higher priced and hand woven or hand made silk textiles • No tourist arrivals! • No travel for overseas promotions and sales! • Loss of jobs for weavers employed in big textile establishments • Textile craft artists turn to other money generating and livelihood activities Silk Priced Out Of The Market • Spun silk yarn from China has increased in price by 40 percent per kg • Plain silk ( crepe , chiffon, satin, habotai, Fuji) have seen at least 30-40 percent price increase per meter. • This price increase has affected ‘kain songket’ and batik production as the end finished product becomes too high priced for the consumer. • Batik makers have turned to cheaper material such as spun rayon and cotton poplin. Forging a way forward! • Government support for weavers and batik artists • ASEAN Silk network for marketing of raw material • Regional Cooperation for Silk Textile Marketing and Promotion • Defining roles for silk yarn producing countries; silk textile producing countries; silk marketing and consuming countries • Tenun: Handwoven – Fashion week featuring Southeast Asian handwoven textiles hosted by Malaysia • Major Sponsors: Maybank Foundation • Main Organisers: AHPADA and Tanoti • Looking for Supporting Organisations to: – Publicize – Participants – Solicit for financial sponsorship/ sponsorship-in- kind • Emphasis on weaving communities, feeding into sustainability goals – Participants are weaving communities, collaborating with designers as necessary • Required submissions: – Video presentation of fashion collection of at least 6 outfits – Video of weaver community profile/ behind- the-scenes of fashion collection production – Photographs of fashion collection – Photographs of weaving community/ collaborating designer • Option for videos and photographs of collection to be produced by organisers • Event rundown: – Spotlight event: • 15 – 17 Oct: Digital Presentations of Fashion Collections (target: 36) – Supporting events: • 1 – 14 Oct: Screening of weaver community and BTS videos • 15 – 31 Oct: Voting for People’s Choice Awards • 15 Oct onwards: E-commerce shop open • Early December: Live Fashion Show as part of WEFT, Kuching; announcement of awards (People’s Choice and Jury Awards) • Costs: Participation fee of USD 100, collection production and filming, courier costs • Eligibility: – Entrants may be a company, collective, cooperative, foundation, society or village community, currently existing and supporting handloomed weavers in Southeast Asia. Each entrant should be able to show that there are at least 5 weaver artisans within its community. If required, they may work with designers. – The fashion collection must feature Southeast Asian handwoven textiles, used in apparel or accessories, woven on handlooms by a weaving community. • Next steps: – Tell us if you are interested in participating. – Website and application form currently under development, will communicate when ready. – Final selection by 31 July Thank you! www.ahpada.com www.societyatelier.org Contact: [email protected] www.edricong.com.