University of Nairobi School of the Art* and Dc*lgn KENYA NATIONAL ATTIRE: FACTORS INFLUENCING ADOPTION M.A THESIS: BY BEATRICE N.MISATI (2008) o h Kenya National Attire: Factors Influencing Adoption By: Beatrice Nanjala Misati (B50/6117/2005) A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment for the Requirements of Masters of Arts Degree in design in the School of the Arts and Design. University of Nairobi. 2008 i Declaration This thesis is my original work and has not been presented for a degree in any other University. Signature.........M f o .................Date....... Beatrice Nanjala Misati Registration number: B50/8117/2005 Supervisor(s) Declaration - This Thesis has been submitted with our approval as supervisor(s). Signature... .................. Date.... ...................................... Dr S. K. K. Mwendwa (School of the Arts and Design. University of Nairobi) Signature.. .... Date.. Dr J.P Odoch Pido (School of the Arts and Design. University of Nairobi) Dedications To God. (you have been my Ebeneza) this far you have brought me. iii Acknowledgements As with any major building project, it takes a great team to make all the elements come together In a thesis. I therefore want to extend my personal and sincere thanks to: Dr. S. K. K. Mwendwa and Dr. J.P Odoch Pido for their invaluable support, comments, suggestions, their very positive critique and reading materials. Thanks for encouraging me to “put my thoughts on paper." I have been blessed to work alongside you. Special thanks also go to Joy Mboya of the Godown Art Centre and Carol Kendi of Unlliver Kenya Ltd. The National Museums of Kenya (Department of Ethnography) and the Ministry of Culture and Social Services In particular M s Lydia Musyoki for providing reading materials which enabled me to write this thesis. I am Indebted to all those without whom this thesis would not have possible. P. M boya for his assistance in gathering empirical data. I would also like to give Mr. Donald Maingi my sincere gratitude for availing his time to edit the thesis. To my husband Dr. S.M Nyandemo and children Dennis and Daphne, for their patience, love and endless support during my studies. I thank God for having you. To my immediate family, you know me best: you love me the most and have supported me in all my endeavours. I love you all very much. And to those who serve along side me at the School of the Arts and Design...... I will forever be great full. iv Abstract In the recent past, the search for nationhood and strategies of advancing the same hove been brought Into question In Kenya. Despite having o national language, which is Swahili such stated conflicts have prevailed, thus bringing the question of material culture into the limelight? The Kenya national attire is such a significant form of material culture that would bring the spirit of nationhood to Kenyan people. However, such a symbol is lacking In Kenya. National symbols have been used to unite people by creating visual, verbal, or iconic representations of their values, goals, or history. Thus there has been a subliminal desire for national attire, which Kenyans believed, could enhance national identity. Nonetheless, the search for Kenya's national attire has been an extremely difficult task for Kenyan designers, (Adongo and Odhuno 2004; Shamalla 2004: Magioga 2004; Safari mate 2006). M ore so. despite various efforts to the national attire it has not been adopted by a recognizable number. This study therefore sought to establish factors affecting adoption of the 2004 national attire developed in the Sunlight National Dress Quest. The research design used in this study is descriptive survey. Primary data was obtained using questionnaires and interview schedules while secondary data were found from books, reports, magazines, newspapers and the Internet. The study was carried out in Nairobi and the sample population was purposefully sampled. The total sample size for this study was fifty questionnaires out of which thirty questionnaires were answered. The sample comprised of eleven male and nineteen female. Designers, judges and members of the national attire project team. In this research different groups of people were Interviewed and each gave their ow n opinion on what they thought contributed to the non-adoption of the Kenyan attire. From the analysis of results, the data reveals that the key reasons for poor adoption of the national attire include poor advertisement as about 3 7 % of the respondents agreed to this. 5 7 % did not like the design of the national attire while 4 3 % did not like the color. The other reasons for poor adoption of the national attire included high cost of the national attire as about 3 0 % of the respondents agreed to this. The low cost of secondhand clothes or (mltumbaa) also contributed to the poor adoption of the attire. This study v therefore came to the main recommendation that the national attire should evolve from Kenyans. On the same line of practice designers should be allowed to come up with their creative ideas of national attires based on their respective interpretation of contemporary Kenyan culture. Such would be a viable base for coming up with national attire that would promote nationhood in the country. vl Abbreviation and Acronyms GWG Great Western Garment KCB Kenya Commercial Bank KEPSA Kenya Private Sector Alliance KWS Kenya Wildlife Service IPC Investment Promotion Centre MP Member of Parliament MSK Marketing Society of Kenya UKL Uniliver Kenya Limited ODM Orange Democratic Movement PNU Party of National Unity vii Table of Contents Declaration................................................................................................ ii Dedications................................................................................................Ill Acknow ledgem ent...................................................................................... iv Abstract.................................................................................................. v-vi Abbreviation and Acronyms........................................................................ vii Tabic o f Contents.................................................................................. viii-xi List of Plates......................................................................................... xii-xv List of Tables............................................................................................ xvi Chapter One: Introduction............................................................................I 1.1 Background Information................................................................ 1 1.2 Statement of the Problem............................................................... 7 1.3 Objectives and significance of study.................................................7 1.4 Scope of the Study and Limitation of the Study.................................. 8 1.5 Chapter Sum m ary.........................................................................9 Definition of T e rm s...................................................................... 10 Chapter Tw o: Literature R e v ie w ...................................................................11 2.1 Historical Challenges of the search for Kenyan National Attire........... 11 2.2 History of Clothing.................................................................... 13 2.3 History o f Fashion..................................................................... 16 2.4 W ho Dictates Fashion................................................................ 17 2.5 The Media and Fashion............................................................. 18 2.6 Changes in Fashion Styles of the Western W orld 1920(19)............. 20 2.8 Styles of the 1910s..................................................................... 21 2.9 Styles of the 1920s.................................................................... 22 2.10 Styles of 1930s........................................................................ 24 2.11 Styles of the 1940s................................................................... 25 2.12 Styles of the 1950s.................................................................. 25 vili 2.13 Styles of the 1960s.................................................................... 26 2.14 Styles of the 1970s.................................................................... 27 2.15 Styles of the 1980s.................................................................... 28 2.16 Styles of the 1990s.................................................................... 30 2.17 Styles of the 2000$ .................................................................... 30 2.18 Styles o f the Late Twentieth Century.............................................31 2.19 The Non-W estern W o rld .............................................................31 2.20 Types of Fashion...................................................................... 33 2.21 M ass Market Fashion..................................................................33 2.22 Clothing Materials.................................................................... 34 2.23 Fashion D e sign ......................................................................... 35 2.24 National Attire/Traditlonal attire.................................................36 2.25 Costume of People of South Africa.............................................. 41 2.26 Clothing of the Xhosa o f South and Western Cape...............................43 2.27 The Sari/Saree...........................................................................