04_281956-ch01.qxp 8/14/08 11:40 PM Page 1 1 The Best of Dubai In Dubai, just about everything is meant to be the biggest and the best. And it’s no joke: Here you’ll find the world’s tallest building, the largest man-made islands, the richest horse race, the biggest shopping festival, and soon the most extensive entertain- ment complex, the most massive mall, and the biggest hotel. People who live here will tell you that Dubai is always changing—that’s an under- statement. Dubai is growing so fast that it hardly seems recognizable from one year to the next. The city’s only competition these days seems to be with itself. Who can keep up? Construction cranes everywhere work relentlessly to continue raising a modern metropolis out of the desert sand. Once completed, the Palm Island Deira will be twice the size as the Palm Jumeirah. Mall of Arabia will eclipse Mall of the Emirates, which is already the biggest shopping center outside North America. The 25-story Ski Dubai will soon be dwarfed in size by the Snowdome being built in Dubailand, which itself will house the largest collec- tion of theme parks on the planet. Asia-Asia will take over as the world’s largest hotel. Each project is bigger, bolder, and significantly more expensive. The skyline is being filled with more architecturally daring high-rises. The land is being carved with new canals and marinas. The sea is being gifted with new artificial islands. In other words, nothing is constant. If Dubai has a core identity, it lies in its dynamic entrepreneurial spirit and not in its layout. Tomorrow there will undoubtedly be even more audacious plans to turn fantasy into reality. 1 Most Unforgettable Dubai Experiences • Doing a Desert Safari. A journey skiing, snowboarding, or throwing into the timeless Arabian Desert will snowballs in freezing cold even as the seem a world removed from modern outside temperature might be siz- Dubai, a chance to drive on the zling. See p. 105. dunes, ride camels, eat authentic Ara- • Taking a Dhow Cruise. Cruising the bic food, and watch belly-dancing Dubai Creek by day or night is an under COPYRIGHTEDthe stars. See p. 104. excellent MATERIAL way to view the old city up • Going to Wild Wadi. This dazzling close and see the new city rising up in water park is pure fun, with rides and the distance. A dinner dhow cruise is activities for kids and adults alike. It’s an especially enchanting experience. the perfect place to cool off during See p. 103. Dubai’s hot days. See p. 102. • Shopping. Dubai without shopping • Skiing in Dubai. Unusual and would be like Belgium without utterly impractical, Ski Dubai is nev- chocolate, as the two just go hand-in- ertheless one of the fantastic attrac- hand. Wander Dubai’s glittery tax- tions in Dubai. Spend your day free malls, and don’t forget to also 04_281956-ch01.qxp 8/14/08 11:40 PM Page 2 2 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF DUBAI visit the traditional Eastern mar- powdery white sand and turquoise- kets—especially the Gold Souk— colored water. There is a range of where bargaining is expected. excellent public and private beaches • Spending a Day at the Beach. Most in Dubai, with many offering water- people are surprised by just how sports and activities for kids. beautiful Dubai’s beaches are, with 2 Dubai’s Best Events & Seasons • Best Season in Dubai: Dubai Shop- prefer the temperate days of “winter,” ping Festival. As long as you don’t and this is when the bulk of outdoor mind crowds, Dubai Shopping Festi- activities and special events take place. val is a thrilling time to visit the city, • Best Thing to Do in Summer: Stay with people from around the world Inside. With extreme humidity and and special events taking place day temperatures routinely more than and night. See p. 109. 100°F (38°C), summer is too hot to • Best Sports Event: Dubai World be outside. This is the perfect time to Cup. The world’s richest horse race, visit the malls, and Dubai Summer at the end of March, is the culmina- Surprises is a 10-week festival offer- tion of a 9-week horse-racing festival ing deeply discounted hotel, restau- and brings in celebrities and jet-setters rant, and store prices, as well as from around the globe. See p. 107. children’s entertainment and educa- • Best Time to Come to Dubai: tional activities. See p. 109. November to March. Most people 3 Best Dubai Structures • Best Hotel Tower: Burj Al Arab. shaped like palm trees sit off the coast Designed to resemble the billowing of Dubai and are considered by some sail of an Arabian dhow, the iconic to be an Eighth Wonder of the Burj Al Arab extends 321m (1,053 World. See p. 14. ft.) to the sky. See p. 68. • Best Traditional House: Heritage • Best Skyscraper: Burj Dubai. The House. Like other structures of its world’s tallest building, Burj Dubai time, this 1890 Arabian home was dominates the skyline with its thin made with coral and gypsum and has silver steel structure and can be seen a central courtyard surrounded by for miles. See p. 14. rooms, some of which face the sea. • Best Man-Made Islands: The Palm See p. 101. Islands. The three artificial islands 4 Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost) in Dubai • Take an Abra Ride on the Creek. • Go to the Beach. Dubai has a num- The traditional way to cross the creek ber of excellent public beaches. They is by water taxi, known as an abra. are clean, safe for swimming, and These little motorized boats connect family-friendly. Deira and Bur Dubai and have been • Walk in Creekside Park. Creekside ferrying passengers back and forth for Park offers waterfront pathways, decades. The price is negligible. See botanical gardens, playgrounds, p. 104. 04_281956-ch01.qxp 8/14/08 11:40 PM Page 3 BEST SPLURGE HOTELS 3 picnic sites, and a children’s educa- markets) is as much a cultural as a tional theme park. See p. 103. shopping experience. • Window-Shop. You don’t have to • Visit Bastakiya. There is no cost to spend any money to enjoy Dubai’s walk through the historic quarter of incredible array of shopping, Dubai, a fascinating (if idealized) rep- although I cannot promise that you resentation of what Dubai looked like won’t decide to loosen your wallet. A at the beginning of the 20th century. walk through the souks (traditional See p. 100. 5 Best Way to Spend a Day Outside Dubai • Desert Safari. Sign up with a tour learn more about Islam at the Shar- operator offering desert safaris close jah Islamic Museum (p. 144). to Dubai. Options include half-day, • In Abu Dhabi. Walk along the full-day, and overnight excursions, waterfront Corniche (p. 134), visit and the most popular are evening the extraordinary Emirates Palace dinner safaris. See p. 151. hotel (p. 137), and see the enormous • In Sharjah. Explore the traditional Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque souks and Arabian homes in Her- (p. 135). Abu Dhabi also has beauti- itage Area (p. 143), view the personal ful beaches, dazzling malls, and an art collection of Sharjah’s ruler at the impressive cultural arts center. Sharjah Art Museum (p. 144), and 6 Best Splurge Hotels • Al Qasr (& 4/366-8888; www. sea and a range of over-the-top madinatjumeirah.com), Madinat amenities fit for kings and queens. Jumeirah. This extravagant resort in See p. 68. Madinat Jumeirah resembles an • Fairmont Dubai (& 4/332-5555; ornate Arabian palace. It sits on its www.fairmont.com), Sheikh Zayed own island surrounded by waterways, Road. Arguably the most refined lush gardens, and the re-creation of hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road, the ancient Gulf architecture. See p. 68. Fairmont houses some of the most • Bab Al Shams (& 4/832-6699; upscale dining and nightlife options www.jumeirahbabalshams.com) is a in town. Elegantly appointed guest serene desert resort located 45 min- rooms boast panoramic views of the utes outside Dubai, ideal for escaping city or the Gulf. See p. 66. the busy city and immersing oneself • Grosvenor House (& 4/399-8888; in uninterrupted relaxation. Even www.grosvenorhouse-dubai.com), when fully booked, the resort has the Dubai Marina. The stylish tower feeling of being mostly empty with overlooking the Dubai Marina blends an unobtrusive staff that caters to Arabian touches with contemporary your needs. See p. 74. design. Guests have access to the • Burj Al Arab (& 4/301-7777; www. excellent beach club at the nearby Le burj-al-arab.com), Jumeirah Beach. Royal Méridien. See p. 70. The famous luxury resort dominates • Shangri-La (& 4/343-8888; www. the Dubai coastline, pampering shangri-la.com), Sheikh Zayed Road. guests in two-level suites with floor- Gracious service is the hallmark of to-ceiling windows overlooking the 04_281956-ch01.qxp 8/14/08 11:40 PM Page 4 4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF DUBAI this spectacular hotel, which attracts and travelers with a strong sense of business elites, visiting celebrities, style. See p. 66. 7 Best Beach Resorts • Hilton Dubai Jumeirah (& 4/399- fun-filled water- and land sports, 1111; www.hilton.com), Jumeirah sparkling pools, landscaped gardens, Beach. An excellent choice for fami- and a casual selection of restaurants lies, the stylish Hilton features one of and bars. See p. 71. Dubai’s most enticing beach clubs, • One&Only Royal Mirage (& 4/ spas, and selections of kids’ activities.