Bordeaux: wines from the left bank (the difference a year or two can make) Soon after deciding to make Bordeaux wines our next topic I realised that a sharper focus would be helpful in choosing the wines. During recent months I had been fortunate enough to chance upon three clarets at significantly reduced prices and, finding it hard to resist a bargain, I bought a few. As it happened, they all came from the same area; the left bank of the Gironde, down-river from Bordeaux and were from different years. This seemed to provide the focus I wanted; wines from the Médoc and from different vintages. This is not a particularly scientific way of comparing wines of different ages. That would require the selection of wines from a single property. However by choosing wines of similar quality from the same region and climate, from vineyards with similar geological profiles and made from the same sorts of grapes, a sufficient degree of comparability seemed possible. I already had wines from 2007, 2009 and 2011 from Saint-Julien and Saint-Estephe so, to complete the quartet I found a 2010 wine from the Médoc. The region As you can see, the region is a long spur of land north of Bordeaux, often referred to as the Médoc but this name is also used for one specific appellation at its northern tip. To avoid confusion with individual appellations I have used the term ‘left bank’ (rive gauche) for the region as a whole, The individual appellations are (from north to south); Médoc, St-Estephe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Listrac, Moulis, Margaux and Haut Médoc. Together they make up what Jancis Robinson has called ‘the world’s starriest wine district’. Its main claim to fame is based on the official classification of 1855 when, in preparation for Napoleon III’s Universal Exhibition, Bordeaux merchants were asked to devise a quality ranking of the top wine châteaux. What emerged was a five-division list of 61 cru classes, 60 from this region and one (Château Haut- Brion) from the Graves district, south of Bordeaux. These wines are among the most expensive in the world with the highest prices linked to the best vintages. Just below the ‘classed growths’ are the so-called ‘bourgeois growths’ or crus bourgeois. This term was redefined in 2010 and is now awarded annually to wines (i.e. not estates or châteaux) judged to be of high enough quality with appropriate taste characteristics. In 2010, 260 wines received the Cru Bourgeois certification. All three controlled appellations featured here were awarded this status in 1936 making them among the oldest in France. All of them are known for the ageing potential of their wines. Médoc is the largest at 4,791 hectares. The communes of Saint- Estephe and Saint-Julien are much smaller at 1,234 and 902 hectares respectively but contain several Cru Classes châteaux; five in Saint-Estephe and 11 in Saint-Julien. There are no Cru Classe châteaux in the Médoc AOC region. The region’s maritime climate creates great variation in weather and Bordeaux: wine growing areas on the left bank harvest conditions so that different vintages can vary and offer a range of contrasting styles. The vintages: reviews and ratings Wine Cellar Insider The Wine Society Jancis Robinson Robert Parker 2011 85 points, average year, early 7/10; lighter, fresher, often firmer yet Variable, forgettable year, quality 88 points; above average drinking advised appetising style back down to earth to excellent 2010 97 points; very good year - 10/10; outstanding year - fruit in abundance Stellar vintage – higher tannins and 98 points; extraordinary tannic, powerful, structured and good supporting structure more freshness than 2009 but still tannic, youthful and rich or slow to mature 2009 97 points; great year with 9/10; very good year – a fine, healthy vintage Vintage of the decade (or century?) 99 points; extraordinary wonderful style - ripe, sexy which produced ripe and appealing, Dramatically ripe voluptuous wines – early maturing and and lush succulent, sometimes exotic wines especially on the left bank accessible 2007 87 points; over-priced early 6/10; good year with variability – most Those who could afford it made 86 points; above average drinking vintage 2007s, whilst light and modest, are ready to attractive wines to excellent drink now So – how should an older wine differ from a more youthful one – what happens when a wine matures? First, the colour changes; young red wines are deeper in colour and more opaque with suggestions of blue or purple hues. As the wine matures the colour becomes less intense with the red tending more towards orange or terracotta with much paler rims or edges. As it ages, so the wine develops a bouquet (younger wines simply have aromas). A bouquet is the complex and multilayered smells and flavours which develop as a result of ageing. During ageing the wine loses some of its tannins and pigments which are precipitated as sediment. This affects tastes on the palate resulting in wines which are mellow and more interesting having gained a considerable range of flavours to bring out the wine’s fullness, richness and elegance. Wine Classification Supplier Price Grapes ABV Supplier’s Notes Les Fiefs de Saint-Julien AOC Lidl £19.99 Cabernet Sauvignon 60% 13% Very good (88 points), medium to full-bodied Lagrange 2011 (second wine of (£8.99) Merlot 34% - dry and nicely balanced with characteristic Château Lagrange) Petit Verdot 6% aromas of black fruit and cedar Château Rousseau Médoc AOC Mumbles £18.95 Merlot 60% 13.5% Pure aromas of blackcurrant, savoury palate, de Sipian 2010 Cru Bourgeois Fine (£12.63) Cabernet Sauvignon 40% herbal and very classic [with] a juicy quality to Wines the fruit. Powerful, excellent length, elegant. Château Lagrange Saint-Julien AOC Lidl £39.99 Cabernet Sauvignon 73% 13.5% Outstanding (93 points) medium to full- 2009 Grand Cru Classe (£4.99) Merlot 27% bodied showing intense cassis fruit [with] (third growth) opulence and depth of flavour on the palate Château Tronquoy- Saint-Estephe AOC Lidl £18.99 Cabernet Sauvignon 50% 13% Outstanding (91 points) medium to full- Lalande 2007 (Cru Bourgeois) (£3.99) Merlot 40% bodied, packed with flavour with the dried Petit Verdot 10% fruit notes well supported by chocolatey oak REVIEWS Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2011 (St-Julien AOC) Light, elegant second wine from Lagrange. There is no unripeness nor extraction from this easy to enjoy medium bodied St-Julien. Drink it fairly young. Score: 88 points (average calculated from eight critical reviews). When to drink: 2016 to 2025. Price range: £13 to £27. (wine-searcher.com accessed 04.07.16) I really like its elegant smooth blackcurrant and mint fruit and effortless elegance (Wilson On wine 06.03.16) A classic amongst second wines! Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon that brings a tannic structure, this 2011 vintage is very fresh and full of balance and roundness. With a long finish, this second wine is, without doubt, one of the best value for money in St-Julien (www.vinatis.co.uk accessed 07.09.16) The second wine of Château Lagrange is, by definition, less complex than its older brother, but it does bear a similar profile. A fruity, juicy and subtle St-Julien with hints of spices. We find the bottle has the ‘Lagrange elegance’ that we like so much. Fiefs de Lagrange has always been, to our mind, one of the best second wines given its quality for the price – and 2011 is no exception. (www.yoursommelier.co.uk accessed 07.09.16) ... soft tannins, lovely fruit and beautiful balance. If you like classy young claret this is the wine (Wotwine Newsletter 2016) ... fresh and elegant with bright berry and blackcurrant fruit, good purity and an intense flavour (www.express.co.uk 20.12.15) Château Rousseau de Sipian 2010 (Médoc AOC) Awarded a gold medal with an overall rating of 86 points in the Decanter World Wine Wards and bronze medals in both the International Wine Challenge and the Concours de Bordeaux, all in 2013. Rich oaky nose, a bit stewed. Plump, juicy, rounded, good weight of fruit here and enough acidity to balance it but it’s slightly over ripe and effortful and it lacks some persistence. Medium length. (Stephen Brook, Decanter, March 17 2014) Open and forward fruit, light menthol aromas, bright berry fruits, big palate, concentrated and rich (Ronan Sayburn, Decanter, March 17, 2014) Deep red, purple rim, good crunchy berry fruit and already some lifted fragrance, quite rich and smooth, already showing well but has depth to last, good vigour and quite elegant. (Steven Spurrier, Decanter, March 17 2014) Medium to full bodied, smooth and elegant with a lovely balance of cassis, smoke and toasty oak aromas ... Beautifully structured with polished tannins and a long finish. Tannic so decant two hours. Drink: 2015-2020. Score 91/100 (Natalie Maclean 08.11.14) ... hard to believe how good this wine is for the money ... The 2010 shows good berry fruits with some menthol aromas and fragrance. Rich and smooth with depth to last. Drinking well now but will age for 10 years. (www.oldschoolwines.co.uk accessed 07.09.16) Clean and pure nose of blackcurrants and capsicum leads into a delicate classic palate. (Raffles Fine Wines) Château Lagrange 2009 (Saint-Julien AOC) There are three Bordeaux châteaux called Lagrange; this one in St-Julien, one in Graves and the other in Pomerol. Château Lagrange is an estate well known to claret lovers for producing elegant, flavoursome wines that often provide satisfying drinking earlier than other Grands Crus Classes. Already quite delicious, the 2009 vintage will stay at this level for several years to come (Lidl, The Wine Cellar.