542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page i PORTABLE Chicago 4th Edition by Elizabeth Canning Blackwell Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine 542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page ii Published by: WILEY PUBLISHING,INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. 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All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4288-5 Editor: Kendra Falkenstein Production Editor: Blair J. Pottenger Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Skyscrapers lining the Chicago River For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con- tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi 1 The Best of Chicago 1 1 Frommer’s Favorite Chicago Experiences . .1 The Best Chicago Websites . .5 2 Best Hotel Bets . .5 3 Best Dining Bets . .6 2 Planning Your Trip to Chicago 8 1 Visitor Information . .8 2 When to Go . .8 Chicago Calendar of Events . .9 3 Specialized Travel Resources . .13 4 Planning Your Trip Online . .15 5 Getting There . .16 6 For International Visitors . .17 3 Getting to Know the Windy City 19 1 Orientation . .19 Neighborhoods in Brief . .23 2 Getting Around . .25 Fast Facts: Chicago . .31 4 Where to Stay 34 1 The Loop . .35 2 South Loop . .42 Family-Friendly Hotels . .43 3 Near North & the Magnificent Mile . .44 4 River North . .52 5 The Gold Coast . .55 6 Lincoln Park & the North Side . .56 542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page iv 5 Where to Dine 58 1 The Loop . .58 Family-Friendly Restaurants . .65 2 The Randolph Street Market District . .66 Ethnic Dining near the Loop . .68 3 The Magnificent Mile & the Gold Coast . .70 Only in Chicago . .75 4 River North . .76 Dining Alfresco . .78 5 Lincoln Park . .81 6 Wrigleyville & the North Side . .87 7 Wicker Park/Bucktown . .88 6 Exploring Chicago 93 1 In & Around the Loop: The Art Institute, the Sears Tower & Grant Park . .93 Oprah in Person . .98 Museum Free Days . .104 2 The Earth, the Sky & the Sea: The Big Three in the Grant Park Museum Campus . .104 3 North of the Loop: The Magnificent Mile & Beyond . .108 4 Lincoln Park Attractions . .111 5 Exploring Hyde Park: The Museum of Science and Industry & More . .113 6 More Museums . .117 7 Exploring the ’Burbs . .119 The (Frank Lloyd) Wright Stuff . .120 8 Kid Stuff . .124 9 Sightseeing Tours . .125 10 Staying Active . .129 11 In the Grandstand: Watching Chicago’s Athletic Events . .131 542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page v v 7 Shopping 134 1 Shopping the Magnificent Mile . .135 2 More Shopping Neighborhoods . .140 Chic Boutiques . .144 3 Shopping A to Z . .145 8 Chicago After Dark 152 1 The Performing Arts . .152 2 Comedy & Improv . .158 3 The Music Scene . .159 4 The Club Scene . .165 5 The Bar & Cafe Scene . .166 Late-Night Bites . .170 An Escape from the Multiplex . .172 6 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . .173 Index 174 General Index . .174 Accommodations Index . .179 Restaurant Index . .179 542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page vi List of Maps Chicago & Vicinity 2 Dining & Nightlife Chicago Neighborhood Map in Wicker Park/ Index 21 Bucktown 89 Downtown El & Subway Exploring Chicago: Stations 27 What to See & Do Downtown 94 Where to Stay 36 The Loop Sculpture Where to Dine in the Loop, Tour 99 the Randolph Street Market District, the Magnificent Exploring Chicago: Mile, the Gold Coast & What to See & Do on River North 60 South Michigan Avenue & in Grant Park 101 Where to Dine in Lincoln Park, Wrigleyville & Lincoln Park & Wrigleyville the North Side 82 After Dark 160 542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page vii ABOUT THE AUTHOR Elizabeth Canning Blackwell began life on the East Coast, but 4 years at Northwestern University transformed her into a Midwesterner. She has worked as a writer and editor at Encyclopedia Britannica, Northwestern University Medical School, the Chicago Tribune, and North Shore, a lifestyle magazine for the Chicago suburbs. She also has written for national maga- zines on everything from planning the perfect wedding to fighting a duel. She lives just outside the city with her husband, daughter, and an extensive collection of long underwear. AN INVITATION TO THE READER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Portable Chicago, 4th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 542885 FM.qxd 1/16/04 9:42 PM Page viii FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS,ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids—advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—some great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard FROMMERS.COM Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destina- tions. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 542885 Ch01.qxd 1/16/04 9:44 PM Page 1 1 The Best of Chicago Has Chicago finally gotten over its “Second City” inferiority com- plex? Sure looks like it. The city is booming, bursting with restau- rants, hotels, and shops in every price range. Walk around Chicago these days, and you’ll feel an undeniable energy, a sense that the town is on a roll. This isn’t the first time Chicago has reinvented itself. From the ashes of the Great Chicago Fire in 1871, Chicagoans not only rebuilt—they reached for the heavens with the first steel- frame skyscrapers.