HOLLYWOOD Edited by DEBORAH NADOOLMAN LANDIS V&A PUBLISHING CONTENTS 1 THE ART OF BECOMING 2 DEFINING THE CHARACTER Sponsor's foreword 8 What is costume design? 48 The costume of silent comedy Deborah Nadoolman Landis David Robinson Preface n Debbie Reynolds Moving pictures, silent movies Sound comedy: louder and funnier and the art of William Hogarth 56 John Landis Setting the scene: A ileen Ribeiro Silhouettes of seduction 110 a short history of Designing The Last Emperor 68 Jean L. Druesedow Hollywood costume James Acheson design 1912-2012 12 Hollywood and history 126 Deborah Nadoolman Landis The process of transformation 72 Edward Maeder Kristin M. Burke Banton's beauties 132 Designing for the Coen Brothers 76 Deborah Nadoolman Landis Mary Zophres Costume and fashion 138 Transformations: Johnny Depp 80 Valerie Steele Keith Lodwick Beaton's Fair Lady 146 Creative collaborations 84 Keith Lodwick Edith Head and Alfred Hitchcock Unfashioning costume design 150 Martin Scorsese and Sandy Powell Booth Moore Mike Nichols and Ann Roth Tim Burton and Colleen Atwood Transformations: an interview with Robert De Niro 158 Deborah Nadoolman Landis Transformations: an interview with Meryl Streep 162 Deborah Nadoolman Landis Ann Roth in conversation 168 Peter Biskind 3 COLLECTORS & COLLECTING 4 NEW FRONTIERS The exhibition odyssey 178 Afterlife: ensuring the enduring interest Notes 306 Deborah Nadoolman Landis of a web audience 264 Further reading 309 Chris Laverty Looking behind the wizard's curtain 188 Christopher Frayling Why design? 272 Filmography 310 Jeffrey Kurland The treasure hunt 202 Picture credits 314 Keith Lodwick Fantasy, sci-fi and superheroes 280 Acknowledgements Jacob McMurray 315 Showcasing the talent 212 Index Sam Catley The challenges of Mocap and CGI 294 316 Joanna Johnston A collectors'tale 216 Larry McQueen The collecting imperative: a studio perspective 228 Deidre Thieman Actress and collector 236 Debbie Reynolds Blades 242 Christopher Frayling Gunslingers 246 Christopher Frayling 90027, Hollywood is a zip code: the LA connection 252 Beth Werling .