Cultural Dynamics http://cdy.sagepub.com Performing 'Dis-respectability': New Tastes, Cultural Practices, and Identity Performances by Sri Lanka's Free Trade Zone Garment-Factory Workers Sandya Hewamanne Cultural Dynamics 2003; 15; 71 DOI: 10.1177/0921374003015001109 The online version of this article can be found at: http://cdy.sagepub.com/cgi/content/abstract/15/1/71 Published by: http://www.sagepublications.com Additional services and information for Cultural Dynamics can be found at: Email Alerts: http://cdy.sagepub.com/cgi/alerts Subscriptions: http://cdy.sagepub.com/subscriptions Reprints: http://www.sagepub.com/journalsReprints.nav Permissions: http://www.sagepub.com/journalsPermissions.nav Downloaded from http://cdy.sagepub.com at SWETS WISE ONLINE CONTENT on October 17, 2007 © 2003 SAGE Publications. All rights reserved. Not for commercial use or unauthorized distribution. 03 CDY 15-1 Hewamanne (JB/D) 30/1/03 12:46 pm Page 71 PERFORMING ‘DIS-RESPECTABILITY’ New Tastes, Cultural Practices, and Identity Performances by Sri Lanka’s Free Trade Zone Garment-Factory Workers SANDYA HEWAMANNE University of Colombo, Sri Lanka ᭛ ABSTRACT This article describes and analyzes how female garment-factory workers in Sri Lanka’s Free Trade Zones collectively express their difference from dominant classes and males and articulate their identities as a gendered group of migrant industrial workers by cultivating different tastes and by engaging in oppositional cultural practices. In the urban, modernized, and globalized areas of the FTZs, women develop unique tastes in the realms of music, dance, film, reading material, styles of dress, speech, and mannerisms. By performing subcultural styles that are subversive critiques of dominant values in public spaces, they pose a conscious challenge to the continued economic, social, and cultural domination they endure. But while workers’ participation in a stigmatized culture is explicitly transgressive and critical at some levels, their demonstrated acquiescence to different hegemonic influences marks the inseparability of resistance and accommodation. Key Words ᭛ female garment-factory workers ᭛ free trade zone ᭛ identity ᭛ performance ᭛ resistance ᭛ Sri Lanka However much we try to be like them they will always brand us as lower class. Once you realize that, you start seeing the stupidity of those hi-fi fashions. Then you start to think, hmm, there is value in what we do and in what we like. (Sama, a FTZ worker) Third class is my class and that is just fine with me. (Niluka, a FTZ worker) Introduction The symbolic creativity of young people in investing their immediate life spaces and social practices with meaning and their selective use of sub- cultural styles are crucial to creating and sustaining individual and group identities (Willis, 1993: 206). In this article I analyze how Sri Lanka’s female Cultural Dynamics 15(1): 71–101. [0921–3740 (200303) 15:1; 71–101; 033109] www.sagepublications.com Copyright © 2003 SAGE Publications (London, Thousand Oaks, CA and New Delhi) Downloaded from http://cdy.sagepub.com at SWETS WISE ONLINE CONTENT on October 17, 2007 © 2003 SAGE Publications. All rights reserved. Not for commercial use or unauthorized distribution. 03 CDY 15-1 Hewamanne (JB/D) 30/1/03 12:46 pm Page 72 72 Cultural Dynamics 15(1) garment-factory workers collectively express their difference from dominant classes and males and articulate their identities as a gendered group of migrant industrial workers by cultivating different tastes and engaging in oppositional cultural practices. I examine the new tastes and sensibilities in the realms of music, dance, film, reading material, styles of dress, speech, and mannerisms that factory workers developed in the urban, modernized and globalized arena of the Katunayake Free Trade Zone (FTZ). In doing so, I draw attention to the ways in which these emergent cultural practices represent a critique of existing socioeconomic inequali- ties. In this regard, my analysis of the counter-hegemonic trends in workers’ practices corresponds to José Limon’s assertion that the carnivalesque cultural performances of Mexican-American working class men in South Texas ‘represent an oppositional break in the alienating hegemony of the dominant culture and society’ (1989: 478). Significantly, my focus on cultural practices and styles also situates them as gender critiques in that the workers refused to perform the ideals of respectability sanctioned for women by middle class men. In claiming that FTZ workers’ performances of their recently developed preferences in the realm of aesthetics was central to creating both working class and gendered identities, my argument resonates with Dorinne Kondo’s notion that ‘the world of aesthetics is a site of struggle, where identities are created, where subjects are interpellated, where hegemonies can be challenged’ (1997: 4). Kondo’s study is one among several works that demonstrate the role played by music, performance, dance, dress and style in constituting identity (Gilroy, 1993; Hall, 1992; Tarlo, 1996). In sum, FTZ workers’ insistence on unique tastes and their play with established categories of style, language, and demeanor subverted middle class values and tastes, on the one hand, and enabled them to register distinctive identities as migrant working women, on the other. The article is based on fieldwork carried out in the Katunayake FTZ since 1995, with the major portion of the observations being conducted over the period of a year during 2000. During this time I visited several boarding houses and stayed in one such house with about 50 FTZ workers for seven months. I also conducted research at a FTZ garment factory and developed close friendships with the workers on one particular assembly line.1 This allowed me to participate in their daily lives and recreational activities. Accompanying them on trips to movies, temples, beaches, weddings, and parties gave me ample opportunity to examine and understand the meanings the women attached to their activities and the way the others perceived and responded to the workers’ tastes and favored practices. The journal notes they wrote about me also provided valuable information as to the conscious oppositional character of their new tastes.2 In several journal entries they critiqued my tastes in fashions, clothing, music, and movies and termed my preferences middle class (‘hi-fi’ or western). In their Downloaded from http://cdy.sagepub.com at SWETS WISE ONLINE CONTENT on October 17, 2007 © 2003 SAGE Publications. All rights reserved. Not for commercial use or unauthorized distribution. 03 CDY 15-1 Hewamanne (JB/D) 30/1/03 12:46 pm Page 73 Hewamanne: Performing ‘Dis-respectability’ 73 boarding-house conversations they also attempted to construct a difference between their own recreational activities and those of urban working class youth by pointing to the latter’s desire to follow middle class customs when they could afford to do so. Many Sri Lankans use the term ‘third class’ (in English) when referring to working class tastes and in general try to dissociate themselves from such tastes in public.3 As a group, FTZ workers celebrated this stigmatized identity by unhesitatingly claiming stigmatized tastes and engaging in counter-hegemonic cultural practices.4 As the epigraphs demonstrate, women were keenly aware of their subordination along class lines and consequently developed their own tastes and cultural practices to contest such subordination. These new tastes and cultural practices contained many elements of what the middle class people consider disrespectable. By performing such practices in public spaces they further registered the oppo- sitional nature of this emergent, contestatory narrative about class and culture. It is this critique that allows me to assert that their creation of subcultural styles is a conscious challenge to the continued economic, social, and cultural domination they endure. Some of their subversions in beauty, fashion, and demeanor were also directed towards creating intimacy with working class males. Though they mostly accomplished this by resorting to conscious tactical moves, this led to asymmetrical and even abusive personal relationships with men. These subversions also created a materialistic consumer culture around their lives, which represented an accommodation to different hegemonic forces—the predominant one being capitalist. Thus, while FTZ workers’ participation in stigmatized cultural practices was explicitly transgressive and critical at some level, their demonstrated acquiescence to different hegemonic influ- ences marks the inseparability of resistance and accommodation. After briefly describing the Katunayake FTZ, middle class notions of ‘respectability’ and ideal conduct for Sinhala Buddhist women, I describe their new tastes and cultural practices in order to delineate the counter- hegemonic character and class critique contained within these tastes and practices. In doing so, I argue that their performances in public spaces conveyed a specific identity for themselves as migrant FTZ garment workers and registered their differences from men, other women, and their counterparts in other working class spheres. FTZs and the ‘Respectable Woman’ Sri Lanka set up its first FTZ in Katunayake (near the capital city, Colombo) in 1978 as a part of the structural adjustment policies adopted in 1977. Establishing FTZs in Katunayake, and later in Biyagama and Koggala, fulfilled a campaign promise made by the United National Party Downloaded from