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2019 july l Return east again,to Betws-y-Coed, picking up signs to St Tudclud’s Church, in the tiny village of Penmachno. Study the walls of this sweet Victorian chapel princes ancient of gravestones the for and its 5th-century memorial to Carusius, who general the Roman went mad in these mountains and Caesar against rebelled l Drive north into the Park to find the remotest (ticketed) National Trust property in Britain. It’s difficult to believe the signs to Tŷ Mawr Wybrnant (nationaltrust.org.uk/ lead £4) ty-mawr-wybrnant; anywhere, but suddenly there it is below, a 16th-century Welsh cottage where Bishop Morgan — translator of the Welsh Bible was — born. Ignore the modern display cases of historic Bibles you’ll and feelupstairs as if you’ve stepped back 500 years, with beds and chairs from the bishop’s time l After a night at Betws-y-Coed, where to west, motor National Park meets the Irish Sea. Beneath Edward I’s castle at Harlech, sand dunes now extend to the surf, but when originally built in the 13th century, waves broke on its ramparts. So vast are the dunes, the Eighth Army trained here for desert warfare in 1941. Harlech still looks like a medieval garrison town clinging on to the cliff edge l Rhaeadr Nantcol Waterfalls £3 (nantcolwaterfalls.co.uk/walks; parking), 8km south of Harlech, is one in dramatic of the most and prettiest cascading water white with , off the mountains in a tumult down below, when it reaches lowland meadows, the river suddenly calms through verdant serenely flow to grounds. picnic green the to inland 30km drive l Finally, Victorian market town of , and Cymer Abbey, a ruined Cistercian Abbey between Dolgellau and the After Walk. picturesque Precipice exploring the modest church and its arches, follow signs to the walk up past silent lakes and narrow paths to the old house of Nannau, destroyed by Owain Glyndŵr. Providing the mist clears, you’ll be rewarded with Turneresque views of volcanic Cader Idris and the broad Mawddach Estuary.

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LOCAL LOCAL LORE Hafod Eryi, new Snowdon’s building, summit replaces a cafe from 1935 that Charles Prince called famously highest‘the slum in Wales’ ountain Railway ountain I bibles (printed in (printed bibles 1588) is on show nowdonia National nowdonia

Old asthe hills: I Cader near the village the near of D S Park; below, Harlech Castle; the S the M

o ee & d S l Start in misty Beddgelert, . Descending into Llanberis Llanberis into Descending . . There’s a statue of Gelert to pat Pass, you’ll find the railway line built by Swiss engineers in 1896. It still uses some original rolling stock, which takes passengers to the top in an hour — with scarily sharp drops either side and views down to lakes and smaller mountains. can You see Ireland on a clear day from the summit return). £30 (snowdonrailway.co.uk; Llanberis to back train the l Take station, then follow signs to Dolbadarn Castle (free), a kilometre’s walk away. Climb to the parapets for a spectacular sight: great cliffs of slate towering over Lake Padarn. The feuding Welsh each imprisoned of princes other at Dolbadarnand it doesn’t take much imagination to conjure up the violent tragedies it has witnessed. hemmed in by looming hillsin the heart remorseful a Allegedly, Snowdonia. of Welsh prince interred his faithful dog, Gelert, here under a tree after stabbing sentimental It’s frenzy. angry an in him 18th-century tosh, but the grave is a pretty spot to sit alongside the Glaslyn River and cup a of tea in the slate-hewn town nearby. And despite a National Trust shop and an old school house that sells Beddgelert carvings, Asian modern feels wonderfully lost in time. Snowdon the north to l Going you’ll Llanberis, in Railway Mountain pass waterfalls pouring over cliffs and sheep grazing on vertiginous fields ✂ GUIDE CUT-OUT-AND-GO

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instant escapes 142 Need escape to rugged, the city? Try desolate landscapes and fix a Celtic

Visitors have been coming to Wales for centuries for lakes, in of search been coming Wales Visitors to have mountains, wizards wilderness. and a bit weekend Snowdonia, of oldest National ParkWales’s in the north, dominates the area, but spend intwo weaving and days out the of park and you’ll get castles, historic Victorian stretch andhotels of the By Adrian odd, seaside. Mourby lovely Wild ✂ instant escapes

CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I wild north wales

Eat DRINK & shop l Castle & a cuppa l Old curiosity clothes CAFFI CASTELL (Mains about £6) SIOP HUGHES Because: The best restaurant view of Because: It’s an agreeable ’50s time Harlech Castle is from this glass-steel warp, this outfitters for ladies and space welded to the Visitor Centre, gentlemen, run by one man and his serving tatws (baked potatoes) and granddaughter. Travel’s tip: The cafe cawl (soup). Travel’s tip: Visit the castle next door is famed for its scones, taken (£7.30), but gen up on the history first in the reading room with the morning by watching the video in the Centre. papers. Queen’s Sq, Dolgellau. Castle Sq, Harlech; 01766 780200. l The Welsh wool original l Lunch by the sea WOOLLEN MILLS THE DAVY JONES LOCKER Because: Just north of Betws-y-Coed (Mains about £9) stands the factory that made Welsh Because: One of North Wales’s oldest wool blankets and coats trendy in the public houses, this harbour stalwart ‘70s — they’re still being made today. does burgers, scampi and estuary Travel’s tip: Follow a small sign from views. Travel’s tip: Kids love nearby Ty the cafe into the loom room. Here Crwn, ’s lock-up, built in 1834 blankets are being woven as they were to curb ‘wanton, drunken mischief’. in the 18th century. Main Rd, Trefriw. The Quay; Barmouth; 01341 280166. while in the area… Check out l Swords and dragons l Simple local snacks the Victorian THE KNIGHT SHOP THE UGLY HOUSE (Mains about £11) Barmouth Bridge Because: This shop is the biggest in across the Because: West of Betws-y-Coed, this Britain for repro swords and armour Mawddach 15th-century cottage is said to have Estuary. It’ so long (and also Celtic harp music). Travel’s been built overnight — at a time when (699 metres) that tip: Tower Coffee Shop next door, up people could claim the land if a fire was it’s a Grade-II- a flight of ancient stone steps, is listed structure. lit in the new house’s hearth by dawn. Its 113 wooden the only cafe inside the medieval Today guests are lured with bara brith trestles make it fortifications. Castle Sq, . (spiced bread). Travel’s tip: They make one of the longest honey here, too: ask for directions to timber viaducts in Britain the hives in the wood. Capel Curig; Stay l The hiker’s hotel Just grand: l The former castle Get me there 01286 685498, theuglyhouse.co.uk. ASK THE l Training for Everest ROYAL OAK BETWS-Y-COED clockwise from top BODYSGALLEN (Doubles from Train: Head to Shrewsbury from left, the glam Palé LOCAL PEN-Y-GWRYD HOTEL (Doubles (Doubles from £125, B&B) Hall; tea and cake £200, B&B) Euston (virgintrains.co.uk; £31) for the l Meaty treats Retired rail worker from £95, B&B) Because: This rambling coaching pit stop, Caffi Castell, Because: This 17th-century fortified Cambrian Coast Line (thecambrianline. Y SOSPAN (Mains about £14) Steven Guy has lived in Because: The 1953 Everest expedition inn from 1768 is an ideal base for Harlech; Italianate house north of Snowdonia feels more co.uk), which serves the coast via Llanberis his whole life Because: This old courthouse and jail trained at this 17th-century farmhouse exploring Snowdonia. It’s been gaudily Portmeirion village; like a comfy family home than a castle. Barmouth and Harlech. Or do Crewe home comforts does hearty steaks, lamb and pork, on the crossroads between Llanberis modernised, but has working fireplaces at Bodysgallen; The sunken formal gardens, with views from Manchester(£3.50, also Virgin), plus a fine goat’s cheese soufflé. Enjoy and Betws-y-Coed. Memorabilia in the public rooms downstairs. Travel’s ambitious fare of distant , are perfectly then the North Wales Coast Line the posters of convicts on the wall. What I like most about this donated by Hillary, Tenzing and Hunt tip: Food in the Llugwy River Restaurant served at Ffynnon manicured. Travel’s tip: There are lots (nwrail.org.uk), which serves , Travel’s tip: Ask to sit in the oak- part of the world is the include boots, ice picks — even a string is the best in Betws. Pay £20pp to of places to lounge, but the best place is via stations north of the national park. panelled courtroom to see reliefs wildlife, especially the birds. Many visit vest. Travel’s tip: Don’t pay extra for an upgrade to half-board on check-in and the landing outside room No. 1, with two Bus: National Express (national depicting the trials and execution of in summer and they’re spectacular — if en-suite. The shared bathrooms have you’ll get £25 each off dinner. Holyhead walking comfy chairs and morning sun. Ideal for express.com) runs connecting services STUFF OF tip local witches. Queen’s Sq, Dolgellau; LEGEND you’re lucky, you may even see a appeal, with repro Aubrey Beardsley Rd, Betws-y-Coed; royaloakhotel.net. Take a 10-minute putting your feet up with a book of tragic from all over Britain to major North 01341 423174, ysospan.co.uk. Ask for directions mountain blackbird on Snowdon. My door paintings and Victorian showers. stroll down to Welsh poetry. The Royal Welsh Way, Wales seaside resorts. From London to the field known two favourite pubs are in Caernarfon. Nant Gwynant, Gwynedd; pyg.co.uk. l Best of the boutiques Waterloo Bridge, Llandudno; bodysgallen.com. Victoria head to Shrewsbury (£14.40) built to carry the l Baronial beauty as Camlan, The Hole in the Wall, built next to the FFYNNON (Doubles from £160, B&B) or Llandudno (£24) and pick up local between Irish mail coaches

CASTELL DEUDRAETH Dolgellau and town wall, is friendly and serves a l In the village MAIDENHEAD CARTOGRAPHIC : Because: With arresting artwork and to Holyhead. It l Glamour option buses. In North Wales, Arriva (Mains about £16) Dinas Mawddwy. good pint. Then there’s the traditional PORTMEIRION (Doubles from baths in the middle of rooms, this was named after PALE HALL (Doubles from £275, B&B) (arrivabus.co.uk) runs 10 bus routes, Because: You can idle with a whisky by It’s said to be the Morgan Lloyd, set on Castle Square. £124, B&B colourful hotel stands out in slate-grey the Battle of Because: A remote Victorian stately including ones from Chester. Conwy site of the last Waterloo, which the ornate fireplace in this medieval The best food in Snowdonia is mussels Because: This Italianate village and Dolgellau. A well-stocked honesty home to the east of the National Park, County (conwy.gov.uk) operates a bus battle fought by took place in 1815, castle after a dinner of braised lamb. King Arthur from the Strait. You can’t beat the taste hotel, made of salvaged buildings in the bar, stacks of board games and an the year the it reopened as a hotel three years ago service that links Snowdon with eight Travel’s tip: Buy a two-course lunch of fresh seafood. My tip for visitors? early 20th century, remains Wales’s ambitious menu mean you won’t need bridge was after a dramatic restoration. Result: of the surrounding villages. Car: Rhino constructed here and you’ll get into Portmeirion Mountain conditions can change most unusual stay — the star of cult to venture out in the evening. Travel’s massive sofas, huge Victorian (rhinocarhire.com) offers car hire from Village for free (normally £12). A497 rapidly any time of the year. You need TV series The Prisoner. Service is tip: You’ll need a 12-point turn to get into landscape paintings and striking red a number of North Wales railway Portmeirion ; 01766 the right equipment and supplies to go charming. Travel’s tip: Hole up for old the car park. Ask Angela, the manager, ceilings. Travel’s tip: Ask the staff for stations from £13 a day. 770000, portmeirion.wales/eat/ climbing — even in summer. Prisoner episodes — they’re played on about arriving via Springfield Street, apple chunks to feed the donkey and castell-deudraeth. a loop. Minffordd, Penrhyndeudraeth, rather than Love Lane. Love Lane, ponies kept in the field next door. Palé FURTHER INFORMATION

Gwynedd; portmeirion-village.com. 4CORNERS,PHOTOGRAPHS: AWL IMAGES, GETTY MAP Dolgellau; ffynnontownhouse.com. Estate, Llandderfel; palehall.co.uk. See visitsnowdonia.info.

144 Sunday Times Travel july 2019 july 2019 Sunday Times Travel 145

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(calamari in a greasy greasy a in (calamari JULY 2019 under the disapproving gaze of . Hold luggage Browse only? ), the), Modern Art museum that 8 selling silk lampshades and lampshades silk selling , ’s prettiest antiques market, ), before), one last art fix at the nearby 7 12 Andalucían sausages and watch locals flirting walls. the line that Virgins the l Next make day, for La Tabacalera de Lavapiés (Calle Embajadores 53; madrid.com/en; madrid.com/en; the market outside on the Plaza de prettyCascorro, for espadrilles and straw hats on the cheap. Or follow the scent of almonds towards the bakery stall, which sells sweet slices of Tarta de Santiago with a dollop of cream. l Play catch-up on the dining scene in the Salamanca district, with a gourmet blowout at Platea Madrid (platea abandoned tobacco factory hipped up hipped factory tobacco abandoned tapas counter, coffee a murals, with gallery. and stage bookshop, bar, Terrifyingly for us Brits, it’s an that means which space, interactive man you’re drinking espressos next to might burst into song and rope you in! l It’s a five-minute stroll to El Rastro filling a timeless terracotta courtyard and ornate dressing tables at crazy-cheap prices Reina (museoreinasofia.es/en; Sofía £9; has part-swallowed an 18th-century 18th-century an part-swallowed has head-swivellingly It’s hospital. former you before that’s and good-looking, even get to the paintings Picasso’s — Guernica canvas, war nightmarish the highlight. Later, don your sunnies, order a tinto de and verano wine (red lemon fizz) and idle on the vine-clad terrace of Arzábal, at the museum. l Leaning on a zinc bar with a glass of Rioja and a plate de of bocadillo calamares baguette) gets the evening off to a serene start. Grab a spot at Casa Rúa (Calle de Ciudad Rodrigo 3; the arches just off the dusky-pink Plaza Mayor. Then dive into the La with busy quarter, medieval Latina (Calle Sanlúcar Taberna La At bars. deSan Isidro Labrador; cinema, it’s now an arena for ’s top chefs tempting you to their rival stalls for tapas and oysters live music, cold beers, bottles of wine spontaneous and walls the lining evening. the throughout dancing

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Editor’s favourit hell and pastel- and hell heaven, coloured Titian’s and lust, of portrait of Bacchanal The Andrians the a sulphurousa Don’t miss miss Don’t Patinir’s Joachim Crossing Charon Styx the of contrast the I etiro Park; below, elázquez outside elázquez

Green growth: throughstrolling R Platea M pit gourmet-food stops; statue of V the Prado M . ).

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. The Prado bears . Spend an 6 o (museosorolla.mcu. & d on map). A century ago 1 ee S l Start on a visual high at the One store sells only cactuses, cactuses, only sells store One ) for antique perfume bottles, and 2 the palatial edifices along Paseo de la Castellana or detouring around the lakes of Retiro Park Museo Sorolla es; £2.60; Santa Rita (Calle del 30; Joaquín Sorolla, anImpressionist loved for his iridescent canvases, and lived buttermilk- central, this in worked coloured townhouse living paintings, his perusing afternoon gardens. flower-filled and quarters l Las Salesas, Madrid’s on-trend, indie shopping area, is around the corner. ribbons with hats oversized another that trail down your back (Calle de Fernando VI 2; japinesmadrid. es; l It’s 25 minutes on foot to the Prado (museodelprado.es; £13; CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE CUT-OUT-AND-GO the fruit of relationships between the painters. court their and kings Spanish and queues skip to online Pre-book use entrance two, which leads directly to the Velázquez and Goya paintings Home in on the latter’s Maja Nude which caused a stir with the Inquisition. l Boost your energy with tapas at La Sanabresa (see Drink & Shop overleaf; ✂ for slinky red silk dresses you probably won’t be brave enough to wear back home. Time for a snack? Nothing beats dipped in melted chocolate at the gilt-mirror-filled pastry shop La Duquesita (Calle de Fernando VI 2; adrid M

JULY 2019 el es Trav

Sunday Tim

instant escapes 138 Stuffy? No señor! capital Spain’s a calm— but makes — getaway cool

Once seen as Barcelona’s boring Barcelona’s as seen Once sibling, Madrid been updating has its image with panache, the as subtle well as input gifted of chefs and designers. tapas Old bars and clapped-out markets host a new food generationfoodie and derelict factories live again with arts a fresh scene. A cityThe result? that’s modish without being manic. Twigg Melissa Mellow Mellow ✂ instant escapes

CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I mELLOW madrid

Eat DRINK & shop l Classic Spanish l Sherry break Cerveceria Alemana La Venencia (Tapas about £5) what to Because: This musty sherry bar was order… Because: At this cafe, with mahogany It’s strictly sherry once frequented by Hemingway and walls and haunches of cured meat on only — but they has clearly been untouched for 70 the bar, waiters in penguin suits plonk serve it by the years. Travel’s tip: Avoid the evening glass from the plates of salami and calamari on tables barrels, so you tourist hordes and come for lunch after with jugs of red wine. Travel’s tip: can sample away the Prado (12.30pm-3.30pm). Calle Sherry-crawl the bars that line Plaza de Echegaray 7; 19 . de Santa Ana and nearby La Latina. Plaza de Santa Ana 6; 00 34 914 l Great bar for vino 297033, cerveceriaalemana.com; 14 . La Sanabresa Because: This laid-back spot has one l Modern cool of the city’s best wine lists. Prop up the Sala de Despiece (Tapas about £9) bar with a carafe of hearty Campojuma Because: The dishes in this trendy red and some aubergine fritters. spot near the Sorolla Museum are Travel’s tip: The nearby Prado is free works of art: the carpaccio is sliced to to enter after 6pm, so do a quick tour near-transparency and folded around before drinks here. Calle del Amor crushed truffles. Travel’s tip: The de Dios 12; 7 . dining room is, frankly, dull. Take a bar seat, where you can watch the chefs at l Quirky women’s gear work. Calle de Ponzano 11; 00 34 917 Uterque WRITER’S 526106, saladedespiece.com; 15 . ADVICE Because: Its big jewellery pieces and Sizes run large candy-coloured accessories are l Country fare here, so look for ultra-creative and great value (often Los Huevos de Lucio (Mains a size or two less than £85). Travel’s tip: This is the smaller than you’d about £12) normally wear Oxford Street of Madrid, so go early to Because: This rustic restaurant has avoid the crush — it’s empty until at perfected the art of rural food for least midday. Calle Serrano 40; 20. glossy Madrileños. Try the huevos rotos — fried eggs smashed over a pile of chips and covered in sausage from Stay l Sleek Scandi style Hotting up: l Outside in Get me there the Basque region. Travel’s tip: Try the ASK THE l Drama queen Exe Moncloa (Doubles from clockwise from top Hotel Urso & Spa (Doubles Go Independent left, a seat in the sun crema catalana dessert — it’s worth LOCAL Casual del Teatro Madrid £52, B&B) at Hotel Urso & Spa; from £146, room-only) EasyJet flies from Gatwick, Luton, flying for. Calle Cava Baja 30; 00 34 913 Alberto de Juan is a lawyer (Doubles from £40, room-only) Because: Its Danish-style cool has alfresco dining at Because: It’s a zen den in the heart of Bristol, Edinburgh and Liverpool from who was born and brought 662984, loshuevosdelucio.com; 16 . Because: Set in the old headquarters of made the roof terrace (and plunge pool) Dos Cielos; theatrical the city — all gleaming conservatories £25, one-way. Ryanair flies from up in Madrid the Spanish Music Union, it’s a theatrical the place for summer in the on-the-up style at Casual del filled with hibiscus, vertical gardens and Manchester, Stansted and Dublin Teatro Madrid; l Peruvian delicacies hoot, with 37 rooms themed after the Moncloa neighbourhood. Rooms are truffles on the menu corridors bordered with bamboo. The from £18, one-way. BA has Heathrow Restaurante Amazonico likes of Mamma Mia!, Hamlet or Romeo comfortable in a simple Nordic style at Gran Meliá Palacio mahogany lift and the stained-glass flights from £35, one-way. (Mains about £12) My golden rule is: don’t and Juliet. Travel’s tip: No catering, — a theme echoed in the sauna in the de los Duques; the windows date back 100 years. Travel’s dance bar at Totem hotel Because: The luminous stuffed dates plan every moment; take it alas. Head up the street to La Rollerie basement. Travel’s tip: Staying at the tip: It’s opposite the Barceló food Go packaged peacocks are OTT, but the Peruvian Don’t miss the live slowly. Have a café con leche on Plaza (larollerie.com) for a £5 menu of coffee, weekend? Say no to (noisy) street- market, so stock up on jamón ibérico Lastminute.com has two nights in cuisine is excellent (try the shrimp jazz on weekends, de la Independencia 21 , walk along juice and churros. Calle de Echegaray 1; facing rooms. Calle Arcipreste de Hita de bellota (acorn-fed Iberian ham) and a central four-star hotel from £220pp, all smooching ceviche). Travel’s tip: Retiro Park is Calle Serrano 22 and discover the casualhoteles.com; 25. 10; exehotels.co.uk; 27 . cream of anise liqueur. Calle de Mejía room-only, with flights from Dublin,

couples and APHIC R close, so plan dinner here after a stroll. twenty- architecture of the Salamanca district. Lequerica, 8; hotelurso.com/en; 29. Manchester or Stansted. BA has two Calle Jorge Juan 20; 00 34 915 154332, somethings I love to roam the streets in the Barrio l Fictional fantasy TOG l Oasis of calm nights in a four-star from £207pp, 17 looking to dance l restauranteamazonico.com; . de las Letras and enjoy a very late Room Mate Mario (Doubles CA R AD Totem (Doubles from £132, B&B) Royal retreat room-only, with Heathrow flights. E

lunch on Plaza de Santa Ana 23. Food from £51, room-only) NH Because: The leafy Salamanca district, Gran MeliA Palacio de los E l Nostalgic eating and drink is everything in Madrid. If Because: Designed around the fictional with its upmarket bars and restaurants, Duques (Doubles from £304, B&B) Get around

: MAID : DUSK Dos Cielos (Mains about £24) you’re unsure where to go, ask: Is Mario (a sexy jazz musician), this hotel is on the doorstep and the hotel’s pale DRINKS Because: It’s a former palace and Madrid is an easy city to walk in and taxis MAP S

Because: The delicious dishes it busy? Are there any locals? My is infectiously irreverent and just a few E neutrals, wooden staircase and marble Libations are boasts a rooftop swimming pool are cheap and plentiful. If you plan on (, cod braised with favourite spot is Cervecería Chamberí metres away from the Royal Palace. bathrooms are wonderfully soothing not officially overlooking its flower-filled gardens taking the metro or buses, you will need IMAG served on the chickpeas) are inspired by centuries- (Calle de Luchana 36; 24) for tortilla with Amenities are good for a place so cheap after a night out. Travel’s tip: Double and the city’s russet roofs. Travel’s a Multi Card, which you can buy in all rooftop after 6pm old recipes. Travel’s tip: Try and get a glass of tinto. It also serves the best (plush robes, slippers and well-lit L AW S, rooms are a squeeze for two adults, tip: Go B&B — it has a breakfast buffet metro stations or tobacconists. Options ER — but staff turn a a table outside and dine under the zarangollo (eggs and potato) and desks), while beds are big. Travel’s tip: N so unless you’re on a strict budget, it’s blind eye if you of dreams. One waiter’s job is to cut include 10 rides (bus and metro) for oak trees. Gran Meliá Palacio de los empanadillas de berenjenas (pastry Ask for a room with a bath (at no extra worth paying £20 extra for a Deluxe sneak them up tissue-thin slices of jamón onto your £10.50, or a single-journey for £1.30. Or yourself to watch Duques, Cuesta de Santo Domingo 5; filled with aubergine) in Madrid. cost) — the showers have poor water with a bit of wiggle room around the the sunset plate; another, generous shavings of use BiciMAD — the city’s electric-bike- 00 34 915 416700, www1.melia.com/ pressure. Calle de Campomanes 4; bed. Calle de Hermosilla, 23; totem- truffle. Cuesta de Santo Domingo 5; sharing scheme, which operates like

es/brands/dosCielos/index.htm; 18 . room-matehotels.com/en; 26. R 4CO PHOTOGRAPHS: madrid.com/en; 28. melia.com/en; 18 . Santander Cycles in London.

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gone slightly mad. ly 2019 u , famed for mouflon sheep, j such as Saccargia (£2.50), a tiny the or cathedral-in-the-wheat, 11th-century (£2.50): Bisarcio remote, romantic. oddly and ruined l Another hour or two brings you to Isola Asinara in the far northwest: a fitting coda. Once a military prison, end-of- it’s protected, now a fiercely wind-combed of paradise the-world wildness albino and turtles endangered donkeys. can You walk, cycle or sail in antique yachts, but you must book tours: go to escursioniasinara.it, or its Stintino. whitewashed pretty, in HQ From there it’s an hour back to Alghero, complete. sojourn Sardinian your l Drive east for an hour across the grizzled interior — on a grey day it resembles a mountainous Ireland with extra artichokes. If you’re staying at Su Gologone (see Stay, overleaf), you’ve time for a rough, tough, exhilarating ’s of one down hike 100-minute canyons eagle-wheeling grandest, Gola di Gorropu (£5). Park for free at hotel Gorropu in Genna e Silana and follow the signposts. l Next take day, the route north up the east coast. It can be suburban anda bit meh, yet ends in one of the world’s most celebrated littorals, the Costa merrily billionaires where Smeralda, pay £26 for a bottle of water. The pretty beaches crowded) (ie, fashionable and are Principe (free) and Liscia Ruja (free). Even if you’re not staying, check out the Porto of architecture cod-Moorish Cervo, like a coastal Marrakech built anby architect on LSD l Now leave the £13 Pepsis and drive for an hour west into the rural beauty of the Logudoro Valleys. The name (it is claimed) means ‘place of gold’, thanks to the mighty ocean swells of golden summer grain. Spend the afternoon serenely pootling between dozens of churches comely-yet-tumbledown cyclopean towers builtby a Bronze Age Good obscure. tantalisingly still culture examples are the Nuraghe di Sante Barbara (£2.50) or the Nuraghe Santa Are inland. minutes 40 (free), Sabina they watchtowers, temples or homes? squat these but knows, No-one stumps look like oversized cells for hermits Celtic

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quietly local local , a cheese It’s here that it in summer months (ask (ask months that contains that maggots. It’s maggots. live, wriggling live, but beloved by ESSENTIALSARDINIA most notorious notorious most

delicacies, delicacies, speciality marzu I Sardinians make make Sardinians

one of the world’s banned by the EU, locals — you’ll find Sail away: yachts by Capo Testo on the northern tip of Sardinia; below, pretty, the multi-coloured houses of Bosa; church in Porto Cervo on the Costa Smeralda Costa

o d & ee has good connections with S l You’ll need to fly in, and sun-splashed squares, its Alghero Blighty. But don’t head out immediately — spend a day or two exploring the town’s passageways once-bandit-haunted and haughty palazzos clanking for built Catalan knights (who owned the city aeons ago). It’s touristy, yet terrifically pretty. Do the breezy, easy, fortified walkseaside pirate-sinking past cannons (don’t pass the pleasant bars). it make can scale grand l Sardinia’s feel remote, even savage — in a good way. An example is the 45km-long coastal road, south Alghero from to corniche gear-crunching The Bosa. primordial woodlands, past zigzags interspersed moorland, of hints via with startling clifftop glimpses of sea pummelling the rocks. Top pit stops stops pit Top rocks. the pummelling the are swims wild and paninis for beaches of Speranza (which has a bar) and Torre (which doesn’t). l End your morning drive with a rare treasure: the beaten-up rose-and- lemon citadel of Bosa, along the River TheTemo. first settlers were Romans, but it was the medieval Malaspinas who built the castle fresco-rich huge, on the highest hill Victorian (£3.50). industrialists derelict left then tanneries tumbling down to the beach. For more intense fun drag a kayak onto the river (bosadiving.com; £6 an hour). l After a night in Bosa, go back in time. nuraghe: find you’ll Sardinia Around ✂ GUIDE CUT-OUT-AND-GO

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instant escapes 130 It’s , butIt’s not quite. Italy, This Med island has a rare charm all its of own Sit in a piazza in be anywhere its one and of could you towns in Italy. Head beyond and you’ll discover Sardinia’s andHead beyond you’ll unique discover allure — from mighty ruins eerie Age forests to Stone and a glam coastline, plus tasty rustic cuisine. The island big and too is beautiful do in to one trip, this but follow circular around route the north and you’ll the see best. Thomas Sean By Essential ✂ instant escapes

CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I ESSENTIAL SARDINIA

Eat DRINK l Picnickers’ paradise l Pukka local Cinzia Market Cipassi (Mains La Bajada about £4) Because: There aren’t many untouristy Because: If you fancy a DIY alfresco bars in Alghero, but this is one, in a nook feast, you can get everything here, off the main drags. Sip malvasia wine including local specialities such as and watch the world go by. Travel’s tip: S’Ampulla cheese, crispy pane carasau Evenings are best, with tipsy students (‘music bread’) and island wines. singing shanties. Via Roma 22, Alghero. Travel’s tip: Ask owner Cinzia for advice — she’s knowledgeable about l Models and oligarchs her produce and keen to chat. Via Carlo Billionaire Club Alberto 121, Alghero. Because: For kitsch Costa Smeralda bling, this disco ball of a nightclub is l The real pizza deal the place. Spot the celebs (ie, Silvio B). La Regata (Mains about £7) Travel’s tip: You’ll pay £217, but to stand Because: There are posher places out, get a ticket to the VIP area. Via to dine, with better views, too, but for Rocce sul Pevero, Porto Cervo; authentic pizza from ancient wood- billionairelife-portocervo.com. fired ovens, this titchy, wobbly-tabled backstreet pizzeria is it. Travel’s tip: l Chic yet cheerful You can’t book, but if it’s full, you can Lord Nelson take away. Via Sassari 24, Stintino. writer’s Because: You can sample Smeralda tip On the road out of high life without going bankrupt at this l Fish on the beach Stintino, look for Brit-style pub on the harbour, with cold Essenza del Gusto (Mains Sapores Antigos beers at merely London-ish prices. (Via Enrico Firmi about £10) 4), which does Travel’s tip: It’s open 7am-3am and it Because: This sea-bleached wooden Sardinian cuisine also serves a tasty English breakfast trat in Bosa’s boisterous marina serves with Catalan (£10) if you’ve achieved a decent up classic fish dishes, such as grilled influences. Check hangover. Piazza della Marina, Porto out its amazing bream in herbs. Travel’s tip: Book variety of sweets, Cervo; lordnelsonpubportocervo.it. ahead if you want to sup by the briny, from crumbly or you could be stuck in a back corner. almond to soft ravioli l l Via Lungomare Mediterraneo, Bosa; with orange Stay City and sea Rustic and exquisite Travel’s tip: Eat somewhere else — a 00 39 078 537 3013, essenzadelgusto ASK THE l Happy camping El Balear (Doubles from £74, B&B) Su Gologone (Doubles from starter costs £34 and it gets worse. dinannisolinasristorantechelo.com. LOCAL La Mariposa (Tent pitches from Because: You’re just a brisk 10-minute £220, B&B) Staff are happy to recommend good Matteo Piga is the £26pp; bungalows, caravans and waterside stroll from Alghero’s town Because: In a world of -cutter restaurants nearby. Porto Cervo; l Food with a view managing director cabins from £27pp) centre, yet this arcaded, whitewashed hotels, this higgledy-piggledy complex marriott.com. at a hotel in Barbagia Hotel Ristorante Ispinigoli Because: It’s only a couple of kilometres hotel faces the sapphire bay and a brace of whitewashed courtyards, terraces, (Mains about £13) north of Alghero’s Old Town and it of rocky beaches, giving most rooms balconies, towers, swimming pools Get me there Because: Most places next to tourist has direct access to a lovely beach. lottery-win views (though the rooms and hammock-hung whisky bars feels Go independent cash attractions don’t try hard. But here they For me the best beaches Umbrella pines afford soothing shade can be small). Travel’s tip: Rent a bike alert like a surreal dream. Not surprisingly, Ryanair flies three times a week do — order the sos anzelottos (ricotta are near Stintino, in the far and a bar/shop/trattoria sells gelati and from them — there are safe seaside Many places, it’s loved by celebrities the world over from Stansted to Alghero, from £90 OGRA PHIC and beef ravioli). Travel’s tip: Get a seat north. They’re quite remote, but they’re drinks. Travel’s tip: This is a great base T paths. Great fun. Lungomare Dante 32; especially — Madonna, for one. Travel’s tip: There return. EasyJet has a route to Olbia AR upstairs in the outdoor bar, which has definitely worth the effort: wild and for families, as it also offers kayaking, hotelbalear.com. smaller, cheaper are treats hidden everywhere here (daily in high season) from Gatwick, D C A D ones — and cabs HE stunning views. Ispinigoli Cave, pretty, with lovely views. If you want to windsurfing, bikes and scooters. N — don’t take cards — look for the cocktail bar on a roof with Luton, Southend and Liverpool, SITE l as payment. You Dorgali; 00 39 078 495268, hotel VISIT experience rural, untouched Sardinia Via Lido 22; lamariposa.it. A IDE Budget luxe ravishing mountain views. And try the from £140 return. : M : will need cash, ispinigoli.it. Before you tuck — I’m talking villages with ancient Hotel Abi d’Oru (Doubles fabulous suckling pig in the basement so bring a card in, visit the cave festivals — explore Barbagia, near l Old Town charm MAP from £190, half-board) restaurant. Oliena, Barbagia; Go packaged

NG that works in (£7). You’ll see l Squillionaire’s splurge the east coast. But don’t do it in July Vecchia Bosa (Doubles from DI Because: With its lavish gardens, foreign ATMs sugologone.it. Just Sardinia (justsardinia.co.uk) one of the tallest AR

Parco Degli Ulivi (Mains or August, because that’s when £52, B&B) H T generous ocean views and regal can organise a week at Su Gologone

stone columns R about £39) on Earth and a everywhere is hot and jam-packed. Because: This pair of charmingly lobbies, it feels (and is) five-star, but l Millionaires only Country Resort from £892pp, B&B, spooky lagoon,

Because: On the Costa Smeralda it’s For cool relaxation, don’t forget to try knackered townhouses are situated BE RO ES, prices are more three-, max four-star. Alfresco service: Cala di Volpe (Doubles from including flights to Alghero or Olbia, where it is said easy to spend £17 on a sandwich. Sardinian wines, which are seldom smack bang in the middle of Bosa and The little spa boasts an outdoor hot tub clockwise from top £312, room-only) and car hire. Tui (tui.co.uk) offers seven Phoenicians left, chefs preparing Prices here, 17km west, are justified: sacrificed exported — perhaps because they have been turned into a cosy-yet- IM AG WL and an ‘ice waterfall’. Cozzies must be Because: If you’re dead keen to kip nights in four-star accommodation, an outdoor feast at S, A S, the poolside setting is matched by beautiful virgins. are excellent! Cannonau di Jerzu is breezy, light-filled B&B. Breakfasts are R worn in the sauna. Travel’s tip: It’s alongside the Costa Smeralda jet set, from £660pp, half-board, with return E Su Gologone; jet-set Now head for

handmade pastas. Travel’s tip: It’s an excellent red or, of course, there’s good by Italian standards. Travel’s tip: ORN 24km from Porto Cervo and 4km fave Cala di Volpe; this is the place. It maintains that Porto flights from Gatwick to Alghero. that wine list in a hotel. A few tables are kept for sweet malvasia from Bosa or Cagliari. Be sure to hire a car — the hotel offers from the closest town (Porto Rotondo). bargain beauty Hotel Cervo Moorish feel (with added glitz), non-hotel guests — book ahead. They make good presents, too. free parking nearby, often a huge hassle So hire a car and profit from the free Abi d’Oru; splurge and is built around an Insta-perfect Further information at Parco degli Ulivi; Rena, Arzachena; 00 39 078 981888, in old Sardinian towns. Via Bonaria 23; parking. Golfa di Marinella, Porto Alghero harbour inlet of turquoise Med. Sleek bars and Check the informative local website

hotelparcodegliulivi.it. vecchia-bosa.sardiniahotelsitaly.com. 4C PHOTOGRAPHS: Rotondo; hotelabidoru.it. and town lobbies buzz with moneyed gossip. sardegnaturismo.it/en.

132 Sunday Times Travel july 2019 july 2019 Sunday Times Travel 133