MUST EAT

AN ECLECTIC SELECTION OF CULINARY LOCATIONS

LUC HOORNAERT PHOTOGRAPHY: KRIS VLEGELS

Luc Hoornaert and Kris Vlegels Kris and Hoornaert Luc creation. its in Idid as much as guide this savor and you enjoy I hope home. coming like mefeel make and me, embrace me, touch that dishes those strange. foundly pro and endless unimaginably encyclopedia; aBorgesian abit like is scene food The NYC preposterous. utterly “complete” is be ever could restaurants to NYC aguide that idea mere the acomplete not guide; absolutely is NYC Eat Must NYC. in than bliss more culinary Ifound have else Nowhere establishments. eating and gastronomy of local soul the with to connect surface the to scratch try Ialways Iam Wherever globe. the mearound gets gium) Bel (in ingredients Japanese high-end and of wine importer time a full Being ago. years 30-odd was of this All vision. and playfulness World a New perspective, with coupled precision, and Old World depth, worlds. focus, of both best the found I really Old World. the Here in to word stomach hardest the to be seems Entertainment raven. a black like my shoulder over to peep seemed always which gastronomy” “proper even and history of gastronomical burden the mefrom liberated pletely com however, NYC, in experiences eating way. My the first to go all allowed not were buds mytaste it like felt Somehow belt. chastity of gastronomical sort some to strapped Iwere (for if Old along World, time) as of the it seemed achild As forms. its all in pleasure togastronomical absolute over myself to give stop, full to eat, here Icame shows. or museums fabulous the landmarks, mind-blowing numerous the to see to come NYC Ihadn’t truth. the telling Iwas But search. cavity body afull avoided barely Ijust interest. sincere most the with my luggage unpacking were officers custom two later minutes Three hesitantly. Ireplied dinner,” and lunch well, “Um, at JFK. I disembarked after minutes officer, customs the asked sir?” to NYC, visit of your purpose the “What’s NYC in Gastronomica Battleship the from Scenes Must Eat NYC Eat Must Thanks, dear Qurratul-ain, for your patience and strength. and patience your for Qurratul-ain, dear Thanks, highlights my personal favorites and features features and favorites my personal highlights You are the wind beneath my wings. my beneath You wind the are NYC in the rain, when? rain, the in NYC - - -

5 PREFACE CONTENT

BRONX - 82 El Nuevo Bohio Lechonera 83 Roberto's 83 Johnny's Famous Reef Restaurant 83

UPTOWN WEST - 84 Indian Accent 84 Asiate (Mandarin Oriental Hotel) 89 Per Se 89 Jean-Georges 89

UPTOWN EAST - 92 BROOKLYN - 10 Rotisserie Georgette 92 Grimaldi's 10 Flock Dinner 97 Hibino 14 Sushi Seki 97 Vinegar Hill House 18 Shun Lee Palace 97 French Louie 22 The Jeffrey 97 Roberta's 26 Rao 97 Smorgasburg 30 Shalom Japan 34 Traif 38 MIDTOWN WEST - 98 Peter Luger 42 NoMad @The NoMad Hotel 98 Fette Sau 46 Eisenberg's 102 Glasserie 50 Eleven Madison Park 106 Greenpoint Beer & Ale Co 54 Chelsea Market 110 Lucky Luna 58 Dickson's Farmstand 114 Peter Pan Donut and Pastry Shop 62 Morimoto 118 Olmsted 66 Buddakan 122 Leuca 70 Rouge Tomate Chelsea 126 Ramen.co by Keizo Shimamoto 74 Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare 130 Extra Fancy 79 Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop 134 Di Fara Pizza 79 Gabriel Kreuther 138 Tacis Beyti 79 Ootoya Chelsea 143 Brooklyn Grange 79 Añejo Hell's Kitchen 143 Pies 'n' Thighs 79 City Sandwich 143 Nitehawk Cinema 79 143

CONTENT Morgan's Barbecue 79 Robert's Steakhouse at 6 Café Tibet 79 the Penthouse Club 143 Daisy May's BBQ USA 143 Gramercy Tavern 143 Pam Real Thai 143 MIDTOWN EAST - 144 DOWNTOWN EAST - 206 Union Square Café 144 Katz's Delicatessen 206 Maialino 148 Yonah Schimmel 210 Atoboy 152 Lam Zhou 214 Haandi 156 Rutger Street Food Cart 218 160 Wildair 222 The Gander 163 Ikinari Steak East Village 226 Kajitsu 163 Black Seed Bagels 230 Dhaba 163 Bessou 234 Tiffin Wallah 163 Saxon & Parole 238 Aureole 163 Oriental Garden 242 Penelope 163 Nom Wah Tea Parlor 246 Nobu Fifty Seven 163 Chinese Tuxedo 250 Empellón 163 Amazing 66 254 Di Palo 258 Chee Cheong Fun Food Cart 262 DOWNTOWN WEST - 166 Narcissa 267 Babbo 166 Cherche Midi (Shane McBride) 267 Balthazar 170 Estela 267 Dominique Ansel Bakery 174 Sushi Dojo 267 China Blue 178 Momofuku Noodle Bar 267 Locanda Verde 182 Cha An Tea House 267 Nakazawa Sushi 186 Golden Unicorn 267 La Bonbonnière 190 Lombardi Pizza 267 RedFarm 194 Graffiti Me & You Private 267 The Spotted Pig 198 Dining Room Claudette 203 Gotham Bar & Grill 267 Chez Sardine 203 Mile end Deli 267 Decoy 203 Il Posto Pizza 267 Nobu Downtown 203 Murray's Cheese Bar 203 Corkbuzz Wine Studio 203 Alphabetical index 270 Charlie Bird 203 Colophon 272 The Dutch 203 Blue Hill 203 Denino's 203 La Pulqueria 203  CONTENT 7

1

GRIMALDI’S 1 Front St., Brooklyn - NY 11201 T (718) 858-4300 - www.grimaldis-pizza.com Open Mon-Thu: 11:30 a.m.-10:45 p.m., Fri: 11:30 a.m.-11:45 p.m., Sat: noon-11:45 p.m., Sun: noon-10:45 p.m. ldi’s ldi’s a im r G Under the Brooklyn Bridge, of course on the Brooklyn side, you will always see a long line 11 YN of people waiting in front of a very handsome building. These are the pizza enthusiasts L

waiting for a table at Grimaldi’s, one of NY’s best-loved pizzerias. BROOK

cross-fertilization in the 18th century. century. 18th the in cross-fertilization of means by developed were today see we “golden apple”. that The tomatoes means which d’oro, for pomo tomato is name Italian the why is That variety. ayellow mostly were and 1500 around Europe in introduced were America Tomatoes toxic. South from considered (erroneously) were tomatoes time that at because of course tomato sauce the without Naples, in appearance its made pizza that century 17th the in only It was oven. of pizza atype in baked was on it which of ingredients sorts all with bread a round-shaped namely of pizza, ate atype also The Vikings out of hunger. plates) himself (bread plates empty the he devoured where spot on the of Lavinium city the established Trojan Aeneas hero the to tradition, According devoured. also was ‘plate’ the big appetite, extremely an one had if only on it and laid was eat to wanted people that tray. Everything as a used was that bread flat ple baked peo words, other In aplate! as began it that surmise people and area Sea Mediterranean the in originated Pizza tourists. to the of course Italy, thanks in pizza popular most the is Hawaii Yet oven. pizza the it in stuck and base on a pizza time first forcan) the a (from pineapple placed someone when been have must history nary culi Italian in days darkest of the One either. cards credit don’t accept they nope, and here atable You reserve can’t Pizza Margherita Pizza - - hattan, but there was one problem: You one problem: was but there hattan, Man in restaurant pizza own his ing - of hav dreamed Patsy making. of pizza skills the he learned where of Harlem part Italian the in he lived old, years ten just was Grimaldi Patsy when 1941, In Margherita was born. pizza how that’s and basil) and zarella moz flag buffalo sauce, (tomato Italian of the colors the with apizza to create him inspired chauvinism His gherita. Mar wife his I and Umberto for King apizza honor of making the He had Naples. in makers pizza best-known the one of Esposito, Raffaele by created gherita Mar pizza consider still people Most basil. and per pep black pecorino, lard, with decked base apizza Mastunicola, the was days those in pizza The best-known San Marzano tomatoes do the rest. dothe tomatoes Marzano San fresh and mozzarella of super-fresh ery - deliv hot). adaily dough, Fresh damn F. pretty (still 1202° of approximately temperature but comfortable a toasty at runs and tons 25 weighs The oven address! current to the moved was location the so and possible, still was that Brooklyn in But ovens. of such tion construc new permit didn’t because shattered was dream His coal. or charcoal by fueled oven an in sible F. pos 932° only is That approximately of atemperature reaches ideally that oven an in crust and bottom crispy and thin wonderful the achieve only can the most authentic pizza. It was It was pizza. authentic most ------13 BROOKLYN Grimaldi’s

21

HIBINO 333 Henry St. (Atlantic & Pacific), Cobble Hill, Brooklyn - NY 11201 T (718) 260-8052 - www.hibino-brooklyn.com Open Mon-Thu: noon-2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10:00 p.m., Fri: noon-2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Sat: 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Sun: 5:30 p.m.-10:00 p.m.

no i b Hi This walk-in restaurant specializes in traditional and contemporary sushi, Kyoto style tapas 15 yn known as obanzai, and homemade tofu. The latter is an enormous task, because tofu is not the l rook

simplest dish to make, nor is it the most popular. B

actually spread throughout Japan by by Japan throughout spread actually tofu word the that 1489 until not It was altar. the on offering an as tofu used who Nakaomi, priest of Shinto diary the in in Japan time first for the used was tofu word the and of protein asource is Tofu sun. rising of the land to the nique tech tofu-making the back brought Buddhism, to study to China traveled AD) (710-794 period Nara the during who priests, Kento China. via Japan reached tofu that is fact but the genuine, was this whether sure be never can we Obviously, BC. 1500 in Su by Ping ten writ to tofu, atribute apoem, It was tofu. to how make illustrating of Han, grave the in tablet astone was of tofu ence exist the of evidence of piece The first scallions, soy-dashi sauce soy-dashi scallions, with gratedwith and ginger Freshly Made Tofu, Made Freshly - - - period (1603-1867), tofu also became became also tofu (1603-1867), period Edo the During noble class. the and Samurai the among popular became and letters) (Chinese of Kanji means den gem on gem Cobble Hill. den hid this discover and Go of Japan. side out tasted rarely I’ve that level quality a with and honorably very tofu serve they where at Hibino this demonstrate certainly They delicious. it is dients, top ingre with prepared it is when and healthy Tofu &Co. very is Hirata by Francisco San in 1895 in established was business tofu first the USA, the In seller. abest became that Tofu Hyakuchin, 1782, in printed acookbook even was There people. common among popular

- - - -

Brooklyn 17 Hibino

101

FETTE SAU 354 Metropolitan Ave. (between N 4th and Roebling St.) - NY 11211 T (718) 963-3404 - www.fettesaubbq.com Open Mon: 5:00 p.m.-11:00 p.m., Tue-Thu: noon-11:00 p.m., Fri-Sat: noon-midnight, Sun: noon-11:00 p.m.

u Sa

ette F Williamsburg is a trendy neighborhood where hobos and graffiti have to compete with gourmet 47 yn cheese stores, extravagant music happenings, topnotch trendy retail stores and superior l rook

restaurants. Some parts of this area actually remind me a bit of Berlin. B

Smoked beef brisket, hand-pulled Berkshire beef brisket,hand-pulledSmoked Berkshire devil. History even tells us of acer us tells even History devil. aspewing as wild as runs Hudson the where Creek, Duyvil to Spuyten close Bronx, the in aneighborhood is Duyvil Spuyten here. specialty the are mini-breweries obscure and beers gian Bel Duyvil. Spuyten -the street of the side other on the just NYC in bars beer best one of the have Barbour, Kim and Carroll Joe owners, the one because no surprise will but that of Fette Sau, point strong way, the the is by Beer, already. watering is My mouth aromas. delicious due to these apéritif for an no need is there and knives, butcher old are of which handgrips the taps, the from abundantly –flows for them especially style Pilsner the in brewed Fette –abeer Brau York.New Although upstate way, from the comes by wood, the All meat. the penetrate that aromas complex the to achieve wood maple and peach cherry, apple, oak, white and red use They appetite. your whets air the in hangs that smell The delicious bite. first your had you have before even feast, areal is The restaurant rant. restau to the leads stand tables picnic simple where Along one. driveway like looks it still infrastructure, of the terms in and agarage previously Sau was Fette accommodates that The building here. located is taurants res barbecue finest one of NYC’s that You suspect never you inside. would entices and signboard, discreet a tiny, sports which gate, its outside to linger seems that of barbecue smell smoky oh-so-wonderful –the miss cannot you which it, of recognizing one way is there but fortunately Fette Sau, spot to easy so not it is sidewalk, From the pork, housemade Berkshire sausage Berkshire housemade pork, - - - - All the tables are set together, and there there and together, set are tables the All coziness. a homely provides fire hearth asizzling showing Amonitor stripes. painted white with brown astylish in or decorated tiled beautifully is space of the The rest Fette Sau barbecues. that animals only the lamb, a cow, pig and of cuts of the all illustrating to ceiling, floor from afresco with covered entirely is wall The eastern appointed. well very is itself The restaurant planet. on the anywhere for barbecue addresses best one of the Fette Sau is concerned, I am as far As establishment. at the seriously very taken is art City, this or Kansas las say,Dal than, barbecue with affinity cal histori natural less has NYC Although history. in attack shark recorded earliest the be may This waves. the beneath him pulled and the legs by him grabbed that fish agiant seen to have claimed Witnesses water. the in no devils were there prove to order in Duyvil Spuyten from River Hudson the across to swim wanted 1642 in who Corlaer van Anthony tain barbecue scene.barbecue NYC of the king the truly Fette Sau is meat. smoked delicious the all to taste able notbeing regret you will two, only you are if because agroup with here Try to come chili. the and salad potato German the is hit particular One vary. constantly that dishes side lovely offered you are addition, In desire. you of ribs number to the according weight by or order you simply and displayed is meat spectacular the All longer. gets customers of waiting line the and in stream people while ciency effi utmost with on everything eye an keeps Shenae se. per service, no table is - - - 49 Brooklyn Fette Sau BROOKLYN S E I EATER L ONA I T DDI A 78 yn l rook B ADDITIONAL EATERIES

18 EXTRA FANCY 22 PIES 'N' THIGHS 302 Metropolitan Avenue - NY 11211 (Brooklyn) 166 S Fourth Street (Driggs Avenue) - NY 11211 T +1 347 422 0939 T +1 347 529 6090 www.extrafancybklyn.com www.piesnthighs.com  Clam and corn fritters with sriracha ranch dip  Smoked pork hash and eggs

19 DI FARA PIZZA 23 NITEHAWK CINEMA 1424 Avenue J (between 14th and 15th Street) 136 Metropolitan Avenue (between Berry Street and NY 11230 (Brooklyn) Whyte Avenue) - NY 11249 (Williamsburg, Brooklyn) T +1 718 258 136 T +1 718 384 3980

www.difarany.com www.nitehawkcinema.com S E  Calzone  Crab cakes with avocado mayo I

20 TACIS BEYTI 24 MORGAN'S BARBECUE EATER 1953-1955 Coney Island Avenue (between Avenue P & 267 Flatbush Avenue (corner of St. Marks & Flatbush) L Kings Highway) - NY 11223 (Brooklyn) NY 11217 (Brooklyn) ONA I

T +1 718 627 5750 www.morgansbrooklynbarbecue.com T www.tacisbeyti.com  16h slow smoked brisket DDI

 Kiymali pide A 25 CAFÉ TIBET 79 21 BROOKLYN GRANGE 1510 Cortelyou Road (Flatbush)

37-18 Northern Boulevard (between 38 and Steinway Street) NY 11226 yn NY 11205 T +1 718 941 2725 l T +1 347 670 3660  Beef momos rook

www.brooklyngrangefarm.com B  Rooftop veggie Colophon

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Texts: Luc Hoornaert Photography: Kris Vlegels except Babbo © Melanie Dunea; Buddakan © Buddakan, Nakazawa Sushi © Daniel Krieger; Eleven Madison Park © Francesco Tonelli; Gabriel Kreuther © Paul Wagtouicz & Gabriel Kreuther (portrait); Indian Accent © Indian Accent; Leuca © Noah Fecks & Nick Solares; Locanda Verde © Dustin Aksland (portrait) & Noah Fecks; Maialino © Matt Duckor, Ellen Silverman, Liz Clayman, Eric Schwortz & Peter Garritano (Must Eat); NoMad @The NoMad Hotel © NoMad; Saxon & Parole © Melissa Hom & Erin Gleeson (Must Eat); The Spotted Pig © Amy Hou (portrait), Zoran Jelenic (interior) & Clay Williams (Must Eat); Union Square Café © Rockwell Group - Emily Andrews (interior) & Liz Clayman (Must Eat) Graphic design: Grietje Uytdenhouwen Illustrations: Emma Thyssen Cartography: Elke Feusels Translation: Bracha De Man Special thanks to Heather & Kim! ‘In aeterna gratitudine to Randall Grahm’ If you have any questions or comments about the material in this book, please do not hesitate to contact our editorial team: [email protected] © Lannoo Publishers, Tielt, 2017 ISBN: 978 94 014 4385 2 Registration of copyright: D/2017/45/244 NUR: 440

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