Bhutan’s Buddha Mushroom by Daniel Winkler www.MushRoaming.com

he road wound its way in tight curves up the narrow valley along a Tmountain river. The gushing water was brown from the heavy monsoon rains. I was already a day late, coming straight from the International Medicinal Mushroom Conference in China, and eager to make the late morning session at a panel on medicinal plants and their increasing scarcity in High Asia at the quadrennial conference on Traditional Asian Medicines. We passed by a farmer selling apples and chili peppers along the roadside. He also sold small plastic bags full of a yellow product that reminded me of chanterelles. Could it be? A few kilometers up the narrow road I spotted another improvised stand, and passing by more slowly I clearly saw mushrooms. Late or not, I had to call a stop. I rushed out of the car before it had come to a complete stop. Two farming ladies were selling bags of smallish, bright-yellow chanterelles, aromatic whitish brown matsutake, and big purple corals. Quickly, I took pictures, bought some chanterelles and a coral, and got back in the car. I had been invited to Thimphu, Bhutan, to present my research (Winkler, 2005; 2008) on caterpillar fungus, Ophiocordyceps sinensis (formerly known as Cordyceps sinensis) (Sung et al., 2007). I was Continued on page 30. Buddha Mushroom range of fruit and vegetables than The caterpillar fungus collected in farmers from the Himalayan highlands. Bhutan and the other Himalayan areas Continued from page 5. In one market we saw many farmers is known in Tibet as Go Marpo Yartsa initially hesitant to participate, since the offering Sese shamu chanterelles Gunbu, meaning “red head summer invitation only included a small grant (probably Cantharellus cibarius), always grass winter worm,” red head for the that would barely cover a fraction of the portioned in open plastic bags, at about darker red color of the larval head travel costs. However, once I realized 100 Ngultrum (US$2) per pound. Also segment. This distinction is based on the conference was taking place during commonly for sale were big purple the host insect and not the fungus. Zang mushroom season, I knew I had to corals. A few people offered low-grade and Kinjo (1998) had claimed that the attend. matsutake; and one farmer sold Goli Himalayan Cordyceps was a distinct I had wanted to come to Bhutan, shamu, “the big cat” (Catathelasma species (C. nepalensis), but this has been or Druk Yul (“Land of the Thunder imperiale). disproved by DNA studies (Sung et al., Dragon”) as the Bhutanese people know Rural mushroom income is regarded 2007). Furthermore, the Himalayan it, for 25 years but somehow it previously as an important factor for rural ghost moth larvae are much smaller. One had never worked out. This was partly development, and Bhutan has been kilogram of dried Bhutanese caterpillar due to Bhutan’s policy of minimizing the dedicating resources to this cause for fungi contains 4000-5000 specimens. impact of tourism by letting in a very many years now. For example, since For comparison, 1 kilogram of small limited amount of guided groups, and 2006, the annual Cordyceps harvest Tibetan caterpillar fungus contains only maximizing the financial benefits by has been sold through a government- up to 3000 specimens; and to reach offering only high-end tourism. However, organized auction system in order 1kg of the biggest Tibetan caterpillar through the years I had been in contact to maximize local income in remote fungi, only 1600 specimens are needed. with Dr. Phuntsho Namgyel, a Bhutanese regions, which otherwise have an And in this case, size does matter! We researcher who studied caterpillar extremely hard time generating should not forget that a great variety fungus and matsutake, Bhutan’s most enough cash income to participate in of attributed medicinal properties, the precious fungal resources, as a source a modern cash economy. Harvesting libido-stimulating aspect is central to of rural income (Namgyel, 2003). So I Yartsa Goenbub (as caterpillar fungus is many Chinese consumers who dictate had hopes of exploring Bhutan’s fungal commonly known in Bhutan) was only the prices. Apart from differences in economy instead of joining exclusive legalized in 2004, a move that immensely size, there is no scientific evidence that tours that would speed right past forests improved the life of mountain farmers. supports this traditional bias against full of mushrooms. The collection of Yartsa Goenbub the Himalayan go marpo that would It hadn’t been easy to get back in has become their main source of explain why Bhutanese collectors only contact with Phuntsho. As it turned out, cash. Meanwhile, annual poaching by receive 30% to 60% of the value for he had switched fields and was now the intruding Tibetans of Cordyceps growing their caterpillar fungus. Biochemical director in the Election Commission in Bhutanese territory remains a big assays could change such perception of Bhutan. This was a new office, since problem in the border region (Hywell- if the results were to indicate that the Bhutan’s new young King, Jigme Khesar Jones, 2003). This extremely remote and active ingredients of the Himalayan Namgyel Wangchuck, had ordered the mountainous border is very difficult to and Tibetan caterpillar fungus are country to become a democracy. This patrol, being several days’ walk from the comparable. move was not so popular with many nearest road-head. During the conference, Phuntsho took people, but as the Fourth King, Jigme Furthermore, Bhutan has done the me to the National Mushroom Center Singye Wangchuck, had pointed out, most advanced field trials researching (NMC), just a short walk from the democracy was the future and one bad Ophiocordyceps sinensis ecology venue, to meet his friend Dawa Penjor, king could ruin a country. (Cannon et al., 2009), despite the fact the NMC director, whom I presented Bhutan is located in the eastern that Bhutan’s annual production is below with booklets on Pacific Northwest Himalayas, sandwiched between India a ton and thus less than 1% of the annual chanterelles, morels, and matsutake. and currently Chinese-controlled Tibet. production of the Tibetan Plateau and We connected quickly through our It is nearly the size of Switzerland but the Himalayas (Winkler, 2011). In 2009, shared fascination with mushrooms. I has fewer than a million inhabitants 595 kg were auctioned off for 78 million told Dawa that I would love to go out (compared to Switzerland’s 7.8 million); Ngultrum (at US$1.66 million, nearly in the field with them, and Dawa was approximately 100,000 inhabit the valley $2800 per kg). Bhutanese people are very so kind as to organize an overnight containing the capital city, Thimphu. interested in Cordyceps. Most I talked excursion to Genekha (Gaynekha), the The strong pull of the urban area worries with were familiar with Yartsa Guenbub village where the “first” matsutake was planners, so the administration works and it is frequently featured in Bhutan’s found. Actually, this mushroom was hard on improving living conditions newspapers. I was even interviewed by known before, but in 1988 a Japanese in the countryside to slow down the Bhutan Today, a daily newspaper, visitor realized that Bhutan’s Po Shamu - emigration. Part of this effort has and invited to present my Tibetan nicknamed back then for its sometimes seen recent construction of beautiful Cordyceps and matsutake research at the suggestive shape resembling the male market halls in Thimphu. The market Ministry of Agriculture. Impressively, a organ - was identical with the famous is arranged by region, as farmers from report on the event showed up the same Japanese matsutake. By the very next tropical foothills offer a very different day on the Ministry webpage! year, commercial harvesting had started, 30 FUNGI Volume 4:1 Winter 2011 and ever since then it has been collected rice,” a rice with a natural pinkish grain. I in several areas of Bhutan where warm was shown how to use the sticky, cooked temperate oak-pine forests prevail. Most rice to clean my hands by first rubbing of the matsutake are exported fresh, it and then kneading it in my hands. The by air, to Japanese customers. All the color change of the rice convinced me mushroom needed was a new name, and that my hands were now clean enough this it found. Everyone now knows it as to eat with. On top of my rice I received Sangay Shamu, “the Buddha Mushroom.” a ladle each of ema datsi and shamu In Genekha we met the Gup, the datsi. Datsi is a cheese sauce, somewhat village headmen and the chairman of close to our idea of a cream sauce, and a the local mushroom cooperative, who Bhutanese favorite. Ema are green chilies. coordinates the matsutake harvest. In Bhutan hot peppers are a vegetable, We talked about matsutake in Bhutan, not a spice. Incredible amounts of hot Tibet, and the Pacific Northwest. The green and red chilies are eaten every local officals were very interested to hear day. Not surprisingly, the shamu datsi about the international trade. At the - mushrooms in cheese sauce - were end of our meeting the Gup expressed also enriched with lots of chilies. The his worries that by exporting all their mushroom served was the Himalayan matsutake mushrooms the locals Gypsy (Cortinarius [Rozites] emodensis), would be undermining their sexual which looks just like its close relative the prowess. It took me awhile until I really Gypsy Mushroom (Cortinarius [Rozites] understood his point and remembered caperata) but can be distinguished by that matsutake are in Japan also regarded the pinkish-purple hue of its gills and as an aphrodisiac. I pointed out that wrinkled cap. It was difficult to discern not all matsutake are exported, that its taste beyond a hint of pleasantly there are plenty of super hot chilies and fungal, owing to the overwhelming that I had seen plenty of kids. Thus, it the family of the late Aum Kuchum, the presence of the green peppers. Rounds seemed like they were doing just fine, lady who had found the first matsutake, of arak, a clear grain alcohol most often which painted a nice smile on the face with an eye to joining in on an early derived from rice, were also served, but of the Gup. Our visit was timed so that morning matsutake hunt. The family arak turned out to be the wrong kind of we could attend the matsutake market lived in Zamto village, about half an drink to fight the spiciness of the food. the next afternoon. Several buyers come hour’s drive on a very rough road up the We went to bed early, since we were to the village three days a week to meet valley. On the way there we encountered scheduled to rise at 5 a.m. to hunt for with local collectors, whose matsutake a collectors’ camp in a small meadow matsutake. are sorted into two categories. Class A surrounded by dense oak forests. Thirty- At dawn, following Dema, the consists of specimens whose caps have five men from a lower village, for whom daughter of Aum Kuchum, we quickly not fully opened and whose partial veil the walk up into the woods was too far traversed some pastures covered with is still more or less intact. Collectors for a daily matsutake hunt, had camped aromatic weedy wild hemp on the can sell Class A matsutake for US$5 in group tents. Their daily work done, way uphill to the matsutake forest. per pound. Class B are open-capped they were playing Khuru, throwing heavy The altitude of nearly 10,000 ft slowed mushrooms, which fetch $2. Most metal darts over a distance of 20 yards. me down. In the morning light, the mushrooms at the market fall into Class We were invited to join in, and it took forest of stout evergreen oaks (Quercus A. Collectors make about $650–850 quite a while until I managed to figure semecarpifolia) and Bhutan pines per season, which constitutes over 40% out how to give the weighty dart the (Pinus wallichiana) decorated with long of their annual income. A decade ago right spin to fly straight. strands of Usnea lichen interspersed matsutake generated over 80%, but We continued on, only to find the with tall rhododendrons and Pieris the money from the trade has been road blocked by a landslide. In May a shrubs seemed like a land out of a fairy invested in agriculture, used to buy cows, totally unseasonable typhoon had struck tale. The silver-gray Usnea longissima, introduce power tillers, and to diversify Bhutan and caused much destruction. recently reclassified as Dolichousnea crop cultivation. Thus, the fungal income So we had to hike the last bit. Soon, longissima (Articus, 2004), is also known served as “spore” money to increase the narrow, forested valley opened up. in Bhutan as “Dakini hair.” Dakinis are overall income. This strategy was Now, the southern slope was dotted with female celestial beings that usually reside strongly supported by King Jigme Singye tall, beautiful wooden farmhouses with in a different sphere but once in a while Wangchuck, Bhutan’s Fourth King, who, ornate windows surrounded by already manifest in the human dimension to help when visiting Genekha, pointed out that harvested fields. Once in the house, humans along the path of wisdom. complete dependence on matsutake which we entered by way of a small It did not take any divine intervention was an unwise strategy for sound rural bridge over a dry moat, we were served to find the first mushrooms. Bright development. milk-tea and cookies. This was soon yellow chanterelles and a variety of bright Dawa and Phuntsho had arranged followed by a sumptuous dinner. red and white russulas dotted the ground. for us to stay overnight in the house of First we received a big bowl of “red Continued on page 32. FUNGI Volume 4:1 Winter 2011 31 The consumption of cyanoxantha, and R. delica), amanitas (A. or simply could not place or label. improperly identified citrina, A. rubescens and A. franchetii), Returning to the farmhouse, we mushrooms is a big problem milkcaps (Lactarius scrobiculatus and L. started an ID session with European in Bhutan and neighboring rufus), waxycaps (Hygrophorus russula and Japanese books, as there is no Nepal (Aryal, 2009). Every and H. olivaceoalbus) and a whole “Mushrooms of the Himalayas” year many people become range of knights such as Tricholoma book. Dawa is very troubled by the sick or even die from eating sejunctum, T. sulphureum, and T. focale, use of European names, but has no poisonous mushrooms. One of besides matsutakes. We also found real alternatives owing to the lack of the Mushroom Center’s main a huge Goli shamu (Catathelasma comprehensive taxonomic research in objectives is to educate the imperiale), which Dema identified as the region. Dawa’s copy of Fungi of Japan public. Dawa and the NMC have a big cousin of the matsutake. Here, by Imazeki, Otani and Hongo (1988) published two posters featuring local knowledge and taxonomy are well is completely worn, a clear indication the main edible and poisonous aligned, as the “big cat” and matsutake that it is his favorite quick reference, not mushrooms. They have also both used to be in the Armillaria genus only because it has awesome photos, produced table calendars and (which also includes honey mushrooms). but primarily because the Himalayan brochures about poisonous We found a lone king bolete (Boletus flora is part of the Sino-Japanese flora, mushrooms and mushroom edulis), which is not common in the a fact that seems to be paralleled in the poisonings - with symptomatic oak-pine forests. More common were fungal realm. I commiserated with Dawa, diagnoses - which have been smallish pale brown boletes, with a pointing out that in North America distributed widely in Bhutan. In bright yellow stipe base and dotted many mushrooms were also named for pinkish scales above, looking close to European species, often receiving their addition, the NMC is working a yellow foot (Tylopilus chromapes), own names many decades or even a on a compilation of Bhutan’s and a range of slippery jacks (Suillus century later. Dawa was aware of the case funga, but there is no end in sp.). In addition, many Phylloporus, a of our Pacific chanterelle, Cantharellus sight. (Note: In Europe some bolete with bright yellow gills, dotted formosus, which was known for a long mycologists suggest calling the the ground. There were edible polypores time as C. cibarius, in spite of being very fungal flora “funga,” just as the such as Boletopsis and Albatrellus, some distinctive from its smaller European Americans jockey for “mycota.” hedgehogs (Hydnum repandum) and cousin. However, funga seems a better several species of hawkwings (Sarcodon Speaking of chanterelles, while choice, since it is consistent spp.). Familiar Ascomycetes such as collecting below Chari Gonpa up the with the Latin example of flora, elfin saddles (Helvella sp.), hooded false valley from Thimphu with Sabrintara fauna, and funga, and gives the morel (Gyromitra infula) and slippery and Dorji, both members of the pleasure of alluring alliteration. cap (Leotia viscosa) abounded. Once NMC, we found “regular” chanterelles Meanwhile, mycota has Attic we came across a big purple Ramaria (Cantharellus cibarius), white Greek hyphae.) coral, commonly called Bjichu kangru. chanterelles (Cantharellus sp.), and a In Dzongkha, the official language of dark blue-gray chanterelle (Craterellus Bhutan (and closely related to Tibetan), cornucopioides). The last, known as the it means “bird foot,” since the branches horn of plenty, is an excellent edible, but look just like bird feet if you turn the is not really eaten in Bhutan because of Matsutake were much more elusive, the mushroom over. Nobody knew its its dark color. This gloomy perception daily collection by locals having cleaned real scientific name, but everybody is also reflected in its German name out the forest successfully. There was seems to eat it. Once back home, I sent Totentrompete, “death trumpet,” and always the possibility that some had been an image to Dr. Ronald Petersen, a similar names in other European hidden under moss, carefully heaped on Ramaria specialist. He suggested that languages. Interestingly, close by in top, to avoid predation by competing it should be the same edible Ramaria Tango I found the winter chanterelle collectors. A small Class A budding he had described from Yunnan as R. Craterellus tubaeformis, but was told matsutake was found, but since it was violaceibrunnea var. asiatica with Zang by Wangdi, a fungophile monk, that still below the minimum size of 7.5cm Mo in Acta Botanica Yunnanense in 1986 this mushroom was not edible. Also in required by collection regulations, we and elevated to species status as Ramaria Tango, I found a beautiful mushroom took our cue from the collectors and asiatica in 1988. Also abundant was the resembling very much our wooly hid it under some moss so it could grow beautiful and tasty Himalayan gypsy chanterelle (Gomphus floccosus), but some more. (Rozites emodensis), much appreciated this specimen was hardly wooly and Taking mushroom photos and in Tibeto-Himalayan cultures. In Bhutan deeper orange in color. On the same identifying species to a new member it is known as Dungshing Shamu, the moist shady slope under deciduous oaks, of the Mushroom Center slowed me fir mushroom (see Winkler, 2009). We I found my first Amanita rubrovolvata, down, so I soon lost sight of Dema, picked the young Himalayan gypsies, but a beautiful tiny, orange-red, spotted fly Dawa, and two of his people. We found left behind many older ones, which lose agaric with a red volva. Another tiny many familiar mushrooms, including much of their pink-purple complexion. but absolutely stunning, mushroom chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius), And of course there were countless was the viscid Aureoboletus thibetanus, brittlegills (Russula emetica, R. mushrooms I had never seen in my life with its dimpled - or more technically 32 FUNGI Volume 4:1 Winter 2011 speaking, highly rugose - chestnut- but anamorphs of Cordyceps, one of The last day of my trip, I had reserved brown cap and yellow pores. It was first them most probably Isaria tenuipes. This to see Bhutan’s most spectacular described from oak forests in Yunnan, I was told by Dr. Nigel Hywel-Jones, a monastery, Taktsang, the “Tiger’s whose species composition is not too Welsh mycologist who started out as Nest.” Legend tells that at this site the different. Big old oaks also serve as an entomologist only to be caught and saint-magician Padmasambhava, who habitat for huge Reishi or varnish conk trapped in the fungal web. Nigel has been introduced Buddhism to Bhutan and (Ganoderma spp.) and hand-sized researching Cordyceps fungi in Southeast Tibet, landed riding on a tigress. This Oudemansiella, which grow below Asia for two decades, with his recent absolutely stunning temple is built leaning trunks, probably preferring research focus in Bhutan. Although into a vertical granite cliff. This cliff of the rain protection for fruiting. Also it is absolutely fascinating discussing thousands of feet comes complete with growing on an oak was a bright orange- Cordyceps and other entomophagous a roaring waterfall. Padmasambhava brown cluster of something looking awfully like the big laughing mushroom, Gymnopilus spectabilis, a psychoactive mushroom. Some days later over dinner I was told by a Bhutanese that his father used to talk about Ga shamu, the laughter mushroom. He knew that it was an orange mushroom growing on wood that causes lots of laughter after consumption. Unfortunately, I could not question his father and I would not be too surprised if I fed him the information regarding color and substrate. Joining us in the woods here below Chari Gonpa were a bunch of young Nepali women (Bhutan has a large Nepali population known as Lhotsawas), who were apparently picking any good-sized mushrooms, often asking us if they could eat them. We told them we didn’t know what they were picking, pointing out that it is not wise to eat any mushroom you cannot recognize for sure. They did not care for this bit of advice, and went their way with a wild assortment of brittlegills, milkcaps and corals; at least they had no seriously poisonous mushrooms, as far as we knew. I was told several times that many people are convinced that any toxicity in a mushroom can be neutralized by cooking them with the seed from a native prickly ash, “tingay” (Zanthoxylum sp.), known in China as Sichuan pepper (see also Doriji, 2009). Moving up the slope, it became steeper and steeper. The extreme gradient slowed us down greatly, and the mossy “ground” in the form of the slope was right in our faces. As I was photographing a big Aureoboletus thibetanus white Ramaria while struggling not to fungi with Nigel, he himself is not much meditated here for four months in the slide away downhill, I noticed a minute, of a mycophagist. However, that wasn’t 8th century. It might be no coincidence filigreed fruiting body with a yellow base much of an issue in a country where the that close by in Paro, is Bhutan’s airport, and the rest all covered in white spores, only Italian restaurant serves you an tucked into a narrow valley of rice like a small tree covered in powder snow. excellent pizza con funghi cooked with fields and farmhouses. Landing there Eureka! I had found a Cordyceps! We fresh Sese shamu, the “oak mushroom” is a totally crazy experience. It seems searched the area diligently and found we know as chanterelles. Along with as if the wing tips are brushing along four more similar, minute fungi. As it this fabulous pizza you can order “Red the pine forested slopes, so close that I turned out, we had found three different Panda,” a yeasty, bubbly wheat beer very was eagerly trying to spot mushrooms species, all technically not Cordyceps, similar to a Bavarian Hefeweizen. Continued on page 34. FUNGI Volume 4:1 Winter 2011 33 Dawa emphasized that the My trousers were soaked within had hoped to hitch a ride. I hiked down NMC would love to be able to minutes. The ground was full of fungal the road for a mile or so before I heard send some of its staff abroad action, but I did not want to repeat the first car approaching. Bright lights for training to improve their my experience of the day before, blinded me. A pick-up truck stopped and taxonomic skills, and pointed when I had failed to reach Chari the middle aged driver asked in good out that taxonomic experts temple, due to having given all my English where I wanted to go. There were interested in coming to work time to photographing mushrooms. two others in the truck, three members in Bhutan would have the I only allowed myself quick glances of the Bhutanese Royal Body Guard. And opportunity to help NMC with at mushrooms when I was catching although they were not on their way to mushroom taxonomy. Bhutan my breath; and I took only one Paro themselves, they offered to drive should be a paradise for any photo of a river coming down on the me to town. Completely soaked, cold and mycologist; it has not only a wide entrenched trail. Taktsang was hungry, I was immensely grateful to have forestation rate of over 70% completely invisible in the hard rain been offered such a gracious ending to but also boasts an incredible and low clouds. I took a few short cuts an awesome journey. biodiversity, from tropic through the dense lichen-clad forests Acknowledgements Himalayan foothills to high to save time, but ended up worrying Special thanks to Dr. Phuntsho Namgyel, alpine areas peaking out at whether I was still on the right path. Dawa Penjor and the team from the 7314 m (23,997 ft). If there are I really had to face up to my lack of National Mushroom Center for helping any mycology departments awareness. By having wasted too much me mushrooming in Bhutan. For interested in cooperating with time in the morning in Thimphu, I welcome suggestions to improve the was now rushing to “enjoy” the peak article I want to thank Tony Migas of Bhutan, and able to offer an experience of my journey. Fungal Endeavors and especially Marc opportunity for training, I Finally the path leveled out. The view Laidlaw, a fungal fiction writer. And last, would be glad to help make was still all heavy fog, but I spotted a but not least my dear wife Heidi Schor the connection. Another small gate. Yes, I was in the right place! for taking care of the family while I was important task of NMC is The path turned into a stairway and went mushroaming in Bhutan. disseminating the knowledge steeply down a nearly vertical cliff. It led References Cited of mushroom cultivation in me to a wooden bridge under a roaring Articus, K. 2004. Neuropogon and the the country. At the time of waterfall that shot out between two cliffs. phylogeny of Usnea s.l. (Parmeliaceae, my visit, NMC was growing To the right of the falls was a dry retreat Lichenized Ascomycetes). Taxon 53(4): shiitake (Lentinula edodes), cabin; not a drop of rain reached that 925-34. oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus spot under the cliff. The path led up a bit Aryal, T.R. 2009. Mushroom poisoning ostreatus), and the medicinal and there was Taktsang Gonpa. If I were problem in Nepal and its mitigation. Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum). a flying tiger or an eagle, I would have Fungi 2(1): 44-46. my nest here too! Cannon, P.F., N.L. Hywel-Jones, I was hoping for a moment of peace N. Maczey, L.N. Tshitila, T. Samdup, inside the temple, but the young monk P. Lhendup. 2009. Steps towards kept asking questions about my family. sustainable harvest of Ophiocordyceps from my window seat. A tiger was surely Even sitting in meditation posture with sinensis in Bhutan. Biodiversity and better adapted to land here, as reported closed eyes didn’t gain me a moment’s Conservation 18(9): 2263-81. from the year 747 AD, than today’s 737! solitude. Being soaked to the bones, Dorji, Gyalsten K. 2009. Don’t eat I arrived at the base of the temple I quickly got a chill. Movement was what you don’t know. Kuensel July 20, mountain at two in the afternoon, much needed. I went back down again and 2009. http://www.kuenselonline.com/ too late for a hike, given that I had only while climbing the steps beyond the modules.php?name=News&file=article& four hours of daylight left and had been waterfall, the clouds suddenly parted, sid=13017 told that the climb up to the temple giving me the most stunning glimpse Hywel-Jones, N. 2003. Cordyceps would take at least two or three hours. of the Tiger’s Nest. A perfect surprise! sinensis—an extraordinary “herb” and its I would have to rush if I wished to have More clouds moved in, a drizzle started poaching by Tibetans in Bhutan. Bhutan any time at all to enjoy the mountain up, and down I went. Connections (Bhutan Society Newsletter, retreat. A taxi delivered me to the base, On the way down, I managed to stop London) 26: 8. but I was hesitant to get out, since five for a few mushrooms: a fried chicken Namgyel, P. 2003. Household income, minutes earlier a powerful downpour mushroom (Lyophyllum sp.), a very property rights and sustainable use of had started to pound the taxi. I had no popular mushroom in Bhutan known NTFP in subsistence mountain economy: umbrella, no pre-arranged ride back, as Nala Shamu, lion’s mane (Hericium the case of Cordyceps and Matsutake in and everything was dark and wet. But erinaceus) and more of the beautiful Bhutan Himalayas. Paper presented at what the heck, I thought. I had wanted Amanita rubrovolvata. The fading the CBNRM Workshop. to visit this temple ever since I had daylight reminded me that I had not Imazeki, R., Y. Otani, and T. Hongo. first seen it in photos many years ago. I arranged a ride back to Paro. I reached 1988. Fungi of Japan (Nihon no kinoko). jumped out of the taxi and rushed into the road at twilight, but not a single Yama-kei Publishers Co. Ltd., Tokyo. the pine woods. car was to be seen in the spot where I 446p. 34 FUNGI Volume 4:1 Winter 2011 Sung, G. H., N.L. Hywel-Jones, J.M. Winkler, D. 2008b. The mushrooming on the Alpine Cordyceps of China and Sung, J.J. Luangsa-ard, B. Shrestha, fungi market in Tibet exemplified by nearby nations. Mycotaxon 66: 215–29. and J.W. Spatafora. 2007. Phylogenetic Cordyceps sinensis and Tricholoma About the author classification of Cordyceps and the matsutake. Journal of the International Daniel Winkler grew up collecting Clavicipitaceous fungi. Studies In Association for Tibetan Studies 4, 47p. wild mushrooms in the Alps. He Mycology 57: 5-59. Winkler, D. 2008c: Present and received a Diploma (= master) in Winkler, D. 2005. Yartsa Gunbu - Historic Relevance of Yartsa Gunbu Geography, Ecology, and Biology Cordyceps sinensis. Economy, ethno- (Cordyceps sinensis). An Ancient Myco- at FU Berlin. He lives in Kirkland, mycology and ecology of a fungus Medicinal in Tibet. In: Fungi 1.4:6-7 Washington, and works as researcher endemic to the Tibetan Plateau. In: Winkler, D. 2009. Tales of the and NGO consultant on environmental A. Boesi and F. Cardi, eds., Wildlife Himalayan Gypsy - wandering between issues of the Tibetan Plateau and and Plants in Traditional and Modern Rozites and Cortinarius emodensis. Himalayas. He has published on forest Tibet: Conceptions, Exploitation and Mushroom – The Journal of Wild ecology, forestry, land use, medicinal Conservation. Pp. 69–85 Memorie della Mushrooming 102, vol. 27.1: 33-40. plants and in recent years mostly on Società Italiana di Scienze Naturali e Winkler, D. 2011. Caterpillar fungi [see www.danielwinkler.com]. del Museo Civico di Storia Naturale di Fungus (Ophiocordyceps sinensis) Working in High Asia, Daniel realized Milano. Production and Sustainability on the that mushrooms play a crucial role (all my articles can be downloaded Tibetan Plateau and in the Himalayas. in Tibetan culture. Since 1998, he from my webpages www. In: Asian Medicine: Tradition and has been researching Tibet’s diverse MushRoaming.com) Modernity, special issue: “Conservation, mushroom industry and its importance Winkler, D. 2008a. Yartsa Gunbu Cultivation, and Use of Himalayan for rural people. He also leads annual (Cordyceps sinensis) and the fungal Medicinal Plants: A Critical Discussion “MushRoaming” tours to Tibet and commodification of Tibet’s rural of Protection, Profit, and Sustainability.” Ecuador [visit www.mushroaming. economy. Economic Botany 62(3): 291- Expected publication: spring 2011. com]; Bhutan tours are organized on 305. Zang, M., and N. Kinjo. 1998. Notes request.

Myco-Solstice Unearthing the dark’s shroom-shaped shades from a bonfire’s ember nebulae

while watching stars like petri dishes of expanding mycelial thought

art goodtimes union of street poets vincent st. john local colorado plateau aztlán kuksu brigade (ret.) san francisco 19apr15001[v33109] FUNGI Volume 4:1 Winter 2011 35