Go Slow … in (Wildlife of the Western Cape)

Naturetrek Tour Report 6 - 15 September 2017

Cape Sugarbird by Mike Wheeler Southern Right Whale by Jackie England

Southern Double-collared Sunbird by Jackie England Spotted Eagle Owl by Jackie England

Report compiled by Rob Mileto Images courtesy of Mike Wheeler, Jackie England & Rob Mileto

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape)

Tour participants: Rob Mileto (leader), Cathy Jenkins and Otto Schmidt (local driver/guides) With eleven Naturetrek clients.

Day 1 Wednesday 6th September

London Heathrow to

Most of us met up somewhere in Terminal 3 and boarded the unremarkable flight to Cape Town.

Day 2 Thursday 7th September

Cape Town to Simon’s Town via Constantia Valley

The flight arrived on time. After baggage and customs formalities, we met up with our two local guides and the final member of our group (who’d arrived a couple of days before) and made our way to the minibuses that were to be our transport. En route, we saw our first of the trip – rather depressingly, a House Sparrow!

Passing through the Cape Town suburbs in the rain, we passed by a river and were rewarded with views of rather more exotic in the form of Glossy Ibis, Hartlaub’s Gull and, rather bizarrely, Greater Flamingos. We soon arrived at the grand Constantia wine estate where we enjoyed an excellent lunch. Sadly, the persistent rain precluded a walk around the grounds and the only bird we saw there was a Common Chaffinch.

We took the scenic route to Simon’s Town and popped to visit the life-size statue of “Just Nuisance” who, we later discovered, was a famous Great Dane and the only dog ever to be officially enlisted in the Royal Navy. By teatime we were ensconced in our lovely seaside guest house, Whale View Manor, overlooking .

Day 3 Friday 8th September and ( National Park) In keeping with the ‘Go Slow’ ethos of the tour (which we mostly failed to maintain!), we had a relaxed start with breakfast at 8.30am. From the guest-house verandah, a host of lovely birds could be seen including; Cape White- eye, African , , Cape Cormorant, , Southern Double-collared and Orange- breasted Sunbirds. We set off at 9.30 for the Cape of Good Hope, which is now part of the Table Mountain National Park.

At the park entrance, Cathy gave us an introduction to the Fynbos, known for its exceptional degree of biodiversity and endemism, comprising about 80% (8,500 fynbos) species of the Cape floral kingdom where nearly 6,000 of the plants are endemic. Here, we also saw our first Malachite Sunbird. En route to the Olifantsbos viewpoint we came across a small group of Bontebok, our first mammal for the trip. There were birds here too, and it was good to see Cape Canary, Karoo Prinia, Cape Robin-Chat, Yellow Bishop and, nearby, a leucistic Bokmakierie.

The beach at Olifantsbos was home to three species of plover, Three-banded, White-fronted and Kittlitz’s, and three species of tern, Swift, Sandwich and Common. We also had great views of Crowned Cormorant, a Grey-

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

headed Gull and, for some, a very smart Cape Grassbird. Off at some distance, but coming closer, was a troop of Chacma Baboons, which some watched the antics of for a while. On our way to lunch, a Klipspringer was spotted standing statuesquely on top of a bouldery outcrop.

Lunch was at a restaurant overlooking the ocean that also sported Cape Bunting, Red-winged Starlings and a Four-striped Grass Mouse! After lunch, from the nearby viewpoint we sighted Cape Gannets offshore, and Cape Spurfowl on the coastal Fynbos.

From here, we made our way to – the most south-eastern corner of the continent. On the road down, it was great but somewhat odd to see Common Ostrich feeding by the ocean and Eland nearby.

On the drive home we stopped briefly to see a Forest Buzzard and a Peregrine overhead and then had a brief visit to Boulders Beach. There we had a quick look at African Penguins before the rain began. Arriving back at our guest house, the fun was not over, since offshore there were some six Southern Right Whales frolicking and one was good enough to breach for us.

Day 4 Saturday 9th September Table Mountain and Cape Town After a hearty (and slightly earlier) breakfast, we set off for Table Mountain. Here we had to queue for the cable car for a while, but the Red-winged Starlings kept us entertained. Once aboard, the cable car lifted us 765 metres to the top of the mountain and turned through 360 degrees, giving us excellent all-round views on what was a clear and sunny day. Once we had gathered on top, we learned a little about the geology of the area before setting off on a very scenic stroll amongst the Fynbos flowers and punctuated with views of cloud forming and then rolling over the mountain edge. That and the Orange-breasted Sunbirds, both gave superb photographic opportunities. Some even took photos of the altogether more drab Familiar Chats. There were also two to be seen, the Southern Rock and Black Girdled and even a mammal – Rock Hyrax, which were very used to people and quite happy to be approached.

After a mountaintop restaurant meal, we descended and had a minibus tour of the top city sites of Cape Town, including the fortress, Groote Kerk (the oldest church in South Africa), Baths, the Stadium used for the 2010 World Cup, the flower market and the impossibly colourful Bo-Kaap (formally known as the Malay Quarter).

Day 5 Sunday 10th September and Chapman’s Peak Drive A leisurely breakfast with distant Southern Right Whales was followed by a departure to the V & A harbour for the ferry to Robben Island. En route, we saw a baboon which was strolling the streets of Simon’s Town. An outcast from the local troop, these loners can be troublesome and are often caught and relocated.

The walk from the drop-off point to the quay afforded us views of Rock Martins that were using the tall buildings as makeshift rock faces. On the quay itself there were a handful of Cape Fur Seals and Cape Cormorants were very evident in the harbour. We soon boarded the large catamaran ferry, but were frustratingly

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

kept inside on safety grounds. However, the 30-minute ride passed quickly and we were soon pulling into the little Murray’s Bay harbour on Robben Island, which was positively dripping with nesting Cape Cormorants and attendant Hartlaub’s Gulls.

We had a succession of island guides, the first telling us about the history of the island and the last about the graveyard of people who died from leprosy, the Lime Quarry and Robert Sobukwe’s house. However, the most moving was the second of the three, Dede Ntsoelengoe, who had himself been an inmate of the island prison for seven years. He showed us around and told us about life in the maximum-security prison, culminating in a viewing of Nelson Mandela’s tiny cell, where he spent 18 years on his long walk to freedom.

Although this was primarily a cultural visit, we did not ignore the wildlife and those included sightings of the introduced Chukar Partridge and Indian Peafowl as well as the native African Penguins, African , Blacksmith Lapwings, Yellow-billed Kite and even an Angulated Tortoise! In the harbour, as we boarded the return ferry was a single Bank Cormorant.

On our return we took the most scenic route back to our guest house – Chapman’s Peak Drive. Affectionately known as “Chappies” locally, the majestic scenery has sheer drops to the sea below and towering mountains rising above you. We stopped to drink in the view and were also rewarded with fine views of a White-throated Swallow.

Day 6 Monday 11th September Seal Island and Strandfontein Waste Water Treatment Works For the people happy to not to ‘Go Slow’, there was an early morning bird walk that spotted Black Saw-wing, Olive Thrush, Cape Robin-Chat, , Speckled Mousebird and Southern Double-collared Sunbird amongst the flowery gardens that surround the guest house.

We returned for breakfast at around 8.15am and around 9.30 set off for and the boat trip to Seal Island. We arrived in good time and some birding from the harbour car park afforded us excellent views of a Red-breasted Sparrowhawk and an all-too-fleeting view of a Burchell’s Coucal.

Once aboard it was a short 20-minute ride around the corner to a rocky island awash with some 400 fur seals and their attending distinctive odour! Also here was a scattering of Sandwich and Swift Terns, and one lone Sooty Shearwater. Lunch was at a lovely little café in the town that also gave us our first Laughing Dove and excellent murals in the toilets.

From there it was a drive across the peninsula to Strandfontein Waste Water Treatment Works – the ‘sewage works’ for Cape Town but also a Mecca for birds. The grasslands near the entrance sported Black-headed Herons and African Pipits, whilst the first waterbodies were brimming with many duck species including: Yellow-billed Duck, Red-billed Teal, Cape Teal, Cape Shoveler, Southern Pochard and Maccoa Duck. Subsequent waterbodies were drier and the expanses of mud supported . Pied Avocets and Black-winged Stilts were frequent but Bar-tailed Godwit, Common Greenshank and Kittlitz’s Plover were also spotted. Between these, the tracks had a pair of Water Thick-knees in residence, Levaillant’s Cisticola bobbed between bushes and African Marsh Harrier glided overhead.

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

The treatment works abuts a refuse site (I know, it sounds so delightful!) and together these create a perfect storm for birds you would not necessarily find on each separately. This included some filthily dirty Great White Pelicans, nearly-as-dirty White Storks and African Sacred Ibis, and some apparently clean Glossy Ibis and a Spur- winged Goose. All these burst into the sky when spooked by an over-flying immature African Eagle.

As we headed back towards the exit, we had a fleeting view of a gorgeous Cape Longclaw and a small Cape Grysbok graced us with its presence. On the coastal route back to Simon’s Town, we were lucky to espy a couple of Spotted Thick-knee on a square of grassland and had two fantastic roadside sightings of Southern Right Whales close inshore and flapping about at the surface.

After freshening up, we had a lovely waterside dinner in , finished off with a Black-crowned Night Heron fishing by the light of the restaurant bulbs.

Day 7 Tuesday 12th September Vergelegen Wine Estate There was an early morning walk for the keen, and this was rewarded with excellent views of Southern Right Whales and Spotted Thick-knees. We left a touch earlier than the Go Slow 9.30 in order to make the most of our time at the Vergelegen Wine Estate. En route, we spotted a Black-winged Kite and, at a fuel stop, a Cape Sparrow.

On arrival at the estate, a stroll around the grounds revealed a wealth of lovely birds such as Swee Waxbill, Fork- tailed Drongo, Cape Canary, Greater Striped Swallow, Pin-tailed Wydah, African Dusky Flycatcher, and the resplendent Amethyst Sunbird. Some were also lucky enough to spot a Brown Rat! Some partook of an enjoyable wine tasting that served as an introduction to this ‘art’. Although, the only description I heard mention of was not hints of guava or jasmine, but “high octane”!

Lunch was in the elegant on-site restaurant followed by an hour or so at leisure to explore the grounds that included some fine old buildings and some even finer 300-year-old camphor and oak trees with girths rarely seen in their native homelands.

Day 8 Wednesday 13th September Rondevlei , Strandfontein Waste Water Treatment Works and Boulders Beach Most opted for the bird-based Rondevlei and Strandfontein day described here, but two spent the day in Simon’s Town museums and eating lovely ice cream, and two had a mostly flower-filled day at Silvermine Nature Reserve.

At Rondvlei, we climbed the tower near the entrance which gave us fine views out over the reserve and we gazed out over Common Waxbills, Levaillant's Cisticola, White-backed Mousebird, Cape Weaver and a lovely Small Grey Mongoose. We then walked to a series of hides, each with its own complement of birds to be seen. As well as the usual ducks, there were a couple of African Swamphens and Purple Herons, whilst overhead wheeled a succession of swifts (Alpine, Little and White-rumped), swallows (Greater Striped and White-throated) and

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

martins (Brown-throated). We heard both Lesser Swamp and Little Rush Warblers, but needed a lot of patient waiting to finally see them!

As we wandered back to the entrance, the mongoose made another welcome appearance, this time very close by and investigating a picnic table. From here we made the short journey to Strandvlei where we enjoyed a picnic lunch overlooking a large flotilla of Greater Flamingos and assorted ducks, whilst Whiskered Terns dived to feed amongst them. Luckily, we were upwind of the less-than-fragrant treatment building.

Top spots for the afternoon included a fabulous Cape Longclaw showing off its orange throat, ringed in black, a Cape Dune Mole-rat bustling over the track (a rare sight, given they are very much subterranean dwellers) and two ponderous, yellow-eyed, Spotted Eagle-Owl that were both very relaxed about our close approach.

Driving back to Simon’s Town, we stopped off for a proper look at the African Penguins at Boulders Beach. This time, we explored the main colony that numbers in the thousands, rather than the handful we had seen up the coast a few days previously. It was a mass of penguins busy raising chicks and, just like the waste treatment works, it had its own distinctive aroma.

We had tea, cake and updated the checklist on our return, and a fine final dinner sometime later!

Day 9 Thursday 14th September Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens Packing up the vans with our luggage and bidding farewell to the lovely staff of the Whale View Manor, we departed for the famed Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Acclaimed as one of the great botanic gardens of the world, just the sheer grandeur of the setting nestled on the eastern slopes of Cape Town’s Table Mountain, sets it apart from most.

Our morning here could not do it full justice, but time enough for a meaningful introduction. Some highlights included: the resident pair of Spotted Eagle-Owls showing well, with the female on her nest and the male in attendance nearby; walking the treetop “Boomslang” walkway, where some also saw its namesake, the Boomslang , coiled in the canopy; and the visit the Protea garden where King Proteas plus a variety of flowering Leucospermum and Erica blossoms were alive with Southern Double-collared Sunbirds, Cape White-eyes and a few glorious Cape Sugarbirds and Malachite Sunbirds too.

After another excellent lunch, where nobody but Rob would dare taste the deep-fried Mopani worms (well, he did admit they tasted like fried sawdust), there was some free time to see more of the gardens. Some chose to wander around the conservatory which simply keeps the xerophytic (dry-adapted) plants found there happily moisture free, and many weird and wonderful succulents and other ingeniously adapted plants were enjoyed there.

By mid-afternoon, it was sadly time to leave. Many of the group had chosen to stay on in the area or further afield in the country, so we said several farewells at hotels or at the airport. The few that were travelling home had a rather bumpy start to the flight which made eating the in-flight meal rather a challenge.

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

Day 10 Friday 15th September London Heathrow We arrived at Heathrow on time. Of the few that had not stayed on, most had internal transfers, but all had fond memories of the Not-So-Go-Slow tour of that fine part of the world that is the Western Cape.

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Cape Sugarbird by Jackie England

Malachite Sunbird & Speckled Mousebird by Mike Wheeler View from Table Mountain by Jackie England

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Tour Report Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape)

Species List

Birds ( = recorded but not counted; H=heard only) September Common Names Scientific name 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 1 Common Ostrich Struthio camelus 10 2 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis 1 2 3 3 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca 10        4 Cape Teal Anas capensis 110  5 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 1 6 Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata 9  7 Cape Shoveler Spatula smithii 49  8 Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha 61  9 Hottentot Teal Spatula hottentota 1  10 Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma 12 11 Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa 6 12 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus 1 13 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris 4      14 Chukar Partridge Alectoris chukar 12 15 Cape Spurfowl Pternistis capensis 3 2 10     16 African Penguin Spheniscus demersus 15 40 100s 17 Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus 1 18 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 9 10 19 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 2 20 Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 1 21 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus 35 42 100s 22 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 18 22 23 African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus 2 25      24 Hadeda Ibis Bostrychia hagedash 16 5       25 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 40 14  26 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 1 27 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 46   28 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 3 1 2   29 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala 10   30 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 1 2 31 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 4 1 1 32 Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 51 1 30 1 33 Cape Gannet Morus capensis 16 10 34 Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus 2 3 35 Crowned Cormorant Microcarbo coronatus 9 5 1 36 Bank Cormorant Phalacrocorax neglectus 1 37 White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus 16 4       38 Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis 100s 100s       39 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus 2 1 40 Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk Accipiter rufiventris 1 41 Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus 2 42 African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus 1 3 1 43 Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius 1 1 5 1 3 44 African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer 2 45 Forest Buzzard Buteo trizonatus 1 46 Jackal Buzzard Buteo rufofuscus 1 1 47 African Swamphen Porphyrio madagascariensis 2 1

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

September Common Names Scientific name 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 48 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 12 16 49 Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata 40 2  50 Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus 2 51 Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis 2 1 52 African Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini 24      53 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 85 90 24 54 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 66 33 55 Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus 1 1 2    56 Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius 15 12 57 Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris 1 2 58 White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus 1 59 Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica 3 2 60 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 61 Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus 2 1 62 Hartlaub's Gull Chroicocephalus hartlaubii 46        63 Kelp (Cape) Gull Larus dominicanus vetula 38        64 Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia 1 65 Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii 19    66 Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis 10 67 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 1 1 68 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida 4 69 Feral Pigeon Columba livia var. domestica 12       70 Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea 6 1 1      71 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata 1     72 Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola H H 2 H 73 Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis 1 1 2 74 Burchell's Coucal Centropus burchellii 1 H 75 Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas H H 76 Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus 2 2 77 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba 2 78 Little Swift Apus affinis 10 79 White-rumped Swift Apus caffer 1 80 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus 3 1 81 Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus 2 82 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 1 83 Rock Kestrel Falco rupicolus 2 1 1 1 1 84 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1 85 Cape Batis Batis capensis 1 1 86 Bokmakierie Telophorus zeylonus 1 1 87 Southern Boubou Laniarius ferrugineus 1 1 H 2 H 88 Southern Fiscal collaris 2 1 2 1 1 2 89 Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis 2 90 Pied Crow Corvus albus 2       91 White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis 6      92 Cape Bulbul Pycnonotus capensis 6       93 Sombre Greenbul Andropadus importunus 3 94 Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne pristoptera 1 1 95 Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola 10 9 96 White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis 2 10 2 6 97 Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata 1 98 Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula 14 1

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

September Common Names Scientific name 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 99 Greater Striped Swallow Cecropis cucullata 2 12 100 Cape Grassbird Sphenoeacus afer 1 H 101 Lesser Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris 1 1 102 Little Rush Warbler Bradypterus baboecala 2 103 Levaillant's Cisticola Cisticola tinniens 6 20 104 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 3 2 105 Karoo Prinia Prinia maculosa 7 1 3    106 Cape White-eye Zosterops capensis 6 3     107 Cape Sugarbird Promerops cafer 2 1 3 108 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris 29 2       109 Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio 2 26       110 Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus 1 1 1 1 111 Fiscal Flycatcher Melaenornis silens 1 1 1 1 1 112 African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta 2 1 113 Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra 2       114 Familiar Chat Oenanthe familiaris 4 3 1 1 1 115 Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 116 Southern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris chalybeus 1 2 3 2 3 6 117 Orange-breasted Sunbird Anthobaphes violacea 6 4 1 2 1 118 Amethyst Sunbird Chalcomitra rubescens 3 119 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 5     120 Cape Sparrow Passer melanurus 2 2 1 121 Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus 2 4 1 122 Cape Weaver Ploceus capensis 2 3 123 Southern Masked Weaver Ploceus velatus 2 1 124 Southern Red Bishop Euplectes orix 2 125 Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis 2 126 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 1 10 127 Swee Waxbill Coccopygia melanotis 9 3 128 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura 1 2 129 Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis 2 6      130 Cape Longclaw Macronyx capensis 2 3 131 African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus 1 1 132 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs 1 2 133 Brimstone Canary Crithagra sulphurata 1 1 3 134 White-throated Canary Crithagra albogularis 1 135 Forest Canary Crithagra scotops 3 136 Cape Canary Serinus canicollis 6 12 30 6 12 137 Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis 4 2

Mammals 1 Baboon, Chacma Papio ursinus 16 1 1 2 Bontebok Damaliscus dorcas dorcas 10 3 Dassie, Rock (Hyrax) Procavia capensis 2 14 3 4 Eland Taurotragus oryx 4 5 Grysbok, Cape Raphicerus melanotis 1 6 Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus 1 7 Mole-rat, Cape Dune Bathyergus suillus 1 8 Mongoose, Small Grey Galerella purverulenta 1 2 9 Mouse, Four-striped Grass Rhabdomys pumilio 1 2 10 Rat, Brown Rattus norvegicus 1

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Go Slow … in South Africa (Wildlife of the Western Cape) Tour Report

September Common Names Scientific name 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 11 Seal, Cape Fur Arctocephalus pusillus 45 6 400 12 Squirrel, Grey Sciurus carolinensis 4 3 13 Whale, Southern Right Balaena glacialis 6 3 6 16 14 Zebra, Plains Equus quagga 1

Reptiles

Southern Rock Agama, Black Girdled Lizard, Cordylus niger Angulate Tortoise, Chersina angulata

Moths

Equine Maiden, Thyretes hippotes

View of Table Mountain by Rob Mileto

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