THE JOURNAL OF JOHN BRAND OF LEXINGTON

EDITED BY PHILIP D. SUPINA*

On April 7, 1818, a young man boarded a steamboat in Louis- ville, bound for New Orleans and Europe, a man with a unique mission. There was nothing unusual about such a trip itself -- already by 1818 thousands of people were traveling on steam- boats on the Ohio and the Mississippi rivers. And thousands of others were traveling to Europe every year on business or to visit their old homes and families. What was unusual about this young Scotsman, John Brand, was that eighteen years before he had gone bankrupt as a sailmaker in and had come to America to rebuild his fortune. He was returning to Scotland a wealthy man to repay his creditors -- years after his legal ob- ligations had ended. A contemporary Scottish publication de- scribed him as "a rare -- and honest man." Born.in Montrose, Scotland, in 1775, John Brand had gone into the sail cloth business in in 1794. The problems of the Napoleonic Wars ultimately drove him to bankruptcy and after a nominal settlement with his creditors, he then sailed to the United States with some hemp-making machinery supplied by his father. Ultimately he settled in Lexington in 1800 and soon went into business with John W. Hunt in the manufacture of hemp bagging. The business flourished, and by 1810 both men were wealthy. In 1818, Brand took his famous trip to Scotland to visit his aging parents -- and to pay off his old -- and doubtlessly stunned -- creditors. The following journal entries come from his journal, a micro- film copy of which is in the Special Collections of The Margaret King Library 6f the University of Kentucky.

April 2, 1818 Left Lexington in the stage and went to the great Crapings to Brockport (now Brocton -- ed.) Got to Frankfort after 11 and to the 12 mile house to dinner when we had a horse die about five minutes after being taken out of harness and got to Shelbyville at dark -- distraught all night.

*PH•L•' D. SUPINA, PH.D., teaches history at the University of Arizona.

54 Journal of John Brand 55

John Brand Biographical •cyclopedia of Kentucky i!!• •:• J !•:• • I•ll• • •,i •i•li• •,• •, • i• • 56 The Filson Club History Quarterly Very pretty country road about Shelby but a very poor coun- try and bad road between Frankfort and there. ] April 3 Left S. at 5 in the M. and got to Netherton to Break, and to Middletown at noon, and to Louisville at 3:30. Was very disap- pointed on arrival to understand that Madison as advertised would not leave Louisville for 8 or 10 days -- we had to wait for another boat. 4th Walked out to view Louisville, was charmed with the site and fascinated -- but on viewing found a great many stagnant ponds in the back streets and lots and not at all surprized at the sickly reputation in the fall. April 4, in the afternoon went out to view Shippingsport in Mt. Stager, am of the opinion it must be a healthier situation than Louisville, a better flow for a companion [ ?] and property is cheaper.

Sunday, April 5 Went over to the river to Jeffersonville to view it. After walk- ing about two miles up the river to ferry, admired the situation very much, laying on a higher bank and having a very com- manding view of the river but on entering the town found in it the same fault as Louisville, viz., a great many ponds inter- spersed through back streets and lots, the companions appointed to meet by Ohio and Indiana was to meet the next day to report on the propriety of cutting a canal on the Indiana side through the isthmus at the back of the town so as to come out below and avoid the falls. Am of the opinion it would be very bene- ficial to Jeffersonville as to its health i.e., as the ponds in the streets might be drained into the Canal, the land falling that direction.

April 5, evening The steamboat Vesta arrived from Cincinnati, I would start again for NO on Monday evening or Tuesday morning. 6th had to call and see Mr. and Mrs. Louis and in my ab- sence, Mr. and Mrs. Fraser and Schahill took the stage to Ship-• ping Port (2 miles distant) to view the Vesta with the view to take passage to NO. On my arrival at Gwathmays found they Journal of John Brand 57 had gone and I walked down myself and on my arrival glad I was not in her as they had been upset in the stage in their coming down, along with a woman and child and some luggage. Upon my arrival-there and viewing the Vesta, I understanding her being on an old barge (only 11/2" plank) we would not agree to go in her unless they would procure another boat, in case of accident the whole crew might get on shore, the commander agreed to do it, and we chose berths and baggage to NO for $60. 7th After breakfast went down to the boat, but could not get off before 2. They having some kind of goods to move aft to lighten her on account of her getting aground. At 2 PM we started and went very well until about 10 PM when one of the pipes of the boiler burst and we were obliged to cast anchor and lay till day," when we have up our anchor and let her drift down with the current until we could repair the pipe, but finding it could not be done soon they hauled it to shore, to take in wood. While the engineer was repairing while drifting we came up and I kept company with Mr. Bentley and two of his boats. I remained some time so but the wind was rising and it taking more hold of our boat than his, he drifted faster and left us before we hauled too. 8th at 61o we got underway, the engine going very well in about an hour came up to Flint Island where Mr. Bentley was moored and helped him. Today we had a very near accident-- viz--Mr. Frazer and myself went out in the skiff to a boat which had lodged on the point of an island for information about our boats. On our return, Mr. Frazier, throwing the rope on board lost his center and fell overboard but fortunately got hold of the boat in falling and only got little ducking but a poor fellow one of the hands was not as fortunate. He fell overboard and on rescuing twice struck the bottom of the skiff before he got up and then had considerable distance to swim ashore and was almost gone before he reached it. Had not two men been there to help it was the opinion of the spectators he would not have been able to get ashore, but he soon recovered. 9th after 10:30 we got to Henderson (or Red Banks) where we stopped to take on board passengers and wood for 11/2 hours (where I put a letter in PO for Mrs. Brand). A very handsome situation as ever I saw on this noble (or any other) river but like this margin of it from head to foot the inhabitants (are) afflicted with fever and ague. 58 The Filson Club History Quarterly

9th at Noon, left Red Banks and stopped opposite Diamond Island to lay on wood and had a fine run all night. April 10, at 4:30 AM, passed the mouth of the Cumberland. at 6:00 AM, Passed the mouth of the Tennessee River at 7:30 AM, Passed the mouth of Fort Mapoc [modern Padu- cah] which commands a very fine and very extensive view up and down the river, It lays on a high bank but is said to be very unhealthy on account of lowlands behind it, certainly swamps and islands. April 10, 12:30 PM, we enter out of Ohio into the grand river, the Mississippi. At 2:00 PM, 12 miles below the m•)uth of the Ohio and we put ashore to take in wood at the house west of the River. It is one of the best situated houses I ever saw. It belongs to Mr. Baker from Alexandra (being inside) who had spent a very handsome patrimony and when he came to the place was worth $30 (so he tells me). By hunch he bought this farm 5 years ago of 200 acres at $3 an acre for although the Mississippi is high, the banks being about 15 feet above the water, at high water. The river will be so high as to come into his yards and high on his house, where it must lay until it evaporates which causes intermittant fever and ague, as it does all along the mar- gin of the Ohio and Mississippi as far as 1 have gone. [italics in original]

at 4:00 PM orders were given to start the steam (which was up in V'2 hour) I got underway, at 4:30 PM. Passed the iron banks at 5:45 and passed the Washington steamboat. She fired a gun and we returned it. 4 barges in sight, all handsomely rigged and carrying from 90 to 140 tons each. At 1010 PM, passed New Madrid (Missouri) and fired a gun. At 113o the moon being nearly down, we made to shore and made fast to some willows. On a very bald shore, we could jump ashore. Passed over the boat afloat, carrying about 100 tons exclusive of machinery. April llth 4:00 A.M. The engines started to make fire to raise steam. At 5:00 cast loose, at 6 AM, came to 2 barges, when we came to one of them being the property of our owner of this boat.

At 8 AM, passed some boats who left Capt. Bush (the Capt. of 6 of our boats) at the mouth of the Ohio, on the 9th. He Bush, had hauled up to the point there [present day Cairo, Illinois -- Journal of John Brand 59 ed.] (this was a little across from Little Praire) when we passed them. At 10:10, on the 19th we passed New Madrid and before and after passing the place we saw a good many lights along the shore. On receiving the above information, we supposed it must have been our boats. On this morning, the llth, we passed a great many boats, 2 of which informed us Capt. Bush was behind. April 12, 5 PM, passed the mouth of the St. Francis River, one mile below we hauled in to take in wood. at 6 PM, passed Big Prairie Monday, 13, 6 AM Hauled to to have to take in wood im- mediately below the Arkansas River. Have come 100 miles in 12 hours. At 8:15 cast loose, a large plank of pelicans in flight (or a large white bird). At 2:35 PM, passed Point Elli Clicho [this must have been close to modern Greenville, Mississippi -- ed.]. The Mississippi today overflowing all its Banks on every side. At 3:00 PM, passed the Governor Shelby Steamboat on her way up from NO -- 19 days out. April 14, at 6 AM passed the mouth of the Yazoo River at 7:00 passed Walnut Hills, a high land and approx. [modern Vicksburg, Mississippi- ed.] at 9:45 AM, passed Warrenton

at 11:15 AM, passed Palminos, a beautious place, but situated very low. at 11:45 AM, passed Mr. Trinness' plantation (wealthy plant- er). A large and very handsome farm, land lays high above the river and very pretty. at 3 PM, passed the Grand Gulf, a handsome situation. at 5:20 PM, passed the mouth of Bayou Pierre

April 15

10 AM, arrived at Natchez, the low town is very dirty, sickly looking place (and I am told sickly as it looks, the small pox is present). We, Mr. Frazer and Jeff, went up and I called on Mr. 60 The Filson Club History Quarterly

John Henderson. The upper town is situated on a very high Bluff, I suppose at least 150 feet above the river and apparently out to be a healthy place. At present it is very hot and dusty. After returning to the boat, Mr. Eliza Morton rode down and insisted on our going up to the Franklin Hotel (his lodgings) and dining with him. We accepted it and drank some very good port with him. A very elegant dinner and very respectable looking company but the eldest roast beef on the table that ever I saw made use of. We had the first asparagus we have seen this season today. 15th at 4 PM, left Natchez at 5 PM. The Orleans, St. Boat on leeway up to Natchez, 5 days out of NO. 16th at 2AM -- went aground on a sand bar immediately below a point. Some of the passengers very much alarmed, particularly Mr. Stevens who had some tobacco aboard. Got out the anchor and after heaving upon it, in an hour got off. 16th at 4 PM. Passed mouth of the Red River. 10 AM burned one of the gaskets of one of the pipes of the boilers (said to be on a/c of the carelessness of the engineers) bought too [twoJ at Tunica at village repairing 4 PM Under way. Passed the principal port of Tunicer village at 7 PM Scene of some fire in its rear, we could see the crepe-encrusted cliffs by a very handsome settlement on the bank of the river, from here to NO, on both sides of the river, it is under cultiva- tion, said to be 150 miles. 17th, at about 5 AM, hauled to shore to put off passengers for the parrish of Memphis. Doctor Arbanum, who had been up to Louisville to buy sugar fit to distill rum (from molasses) by steam, his place is a little above Bailey's Plantation on the right bank of the River. April 18, 5 PM, passed Bayou Lafourche (close by where the Bayou leaves the Mississippi is Donaldson ville and little below the La Fourche Church, right bank. On both sides of the river from the view we had it appeared a delightful place all along the River on both sides for a considerable distance below NO. 7:30 PM arrived at bend of the River before NO and fired a gun. Mr. Frazer and myself went ashore to drink a bottle'of Journal of John Brand 61 porter, being on salt provisions and nothing to drink but bad spirits and Mississippi waters. I returned on board all right, next morning after breakfast, went to take lodgings and deliver our letters. Met with Mr. William Watson of the House of William Watson and Co. who went with us to secure a house before we could be pleased (good lodgings were not to be got) we were at last com- pelled to put up with a very dark close room out the Planters' Hotel (Mr. Beale) but it was the best we could get and our time here was to be but short. 18th. A viewing of the city today and we were much struck with the inadequacy of the buildings and the filthy looking of some of the buildings and houses adjoining a stately looking house, built in the old Spanish style {more like a nunnery or fortification than a gentleman's dwelling). The streets are dusty and dirty, and a very disagreeable smell comes from the gutters, on a/c of having little fall the water stagnating there is putri- fying. At a small expense, the gutters might be supplied from the river with water (by a steam engine) and the citizens at the same time have better water in every street, than the disgusting manner in which they are supplied with water at the present. 19th, Sunday. Went to Catholic chapel and saw them go through their religious worship (or Mass as they call it). After Mass, everyone amuses themselves as they thought in the open, some dancing to musical instruments and (which was the Ne- groes) in the evenings, White man's and French theatre very full with people of every color from the fairest to the deepest Black. May 15, Left NO at 9:30 AM

Had a, view of the battle ground where General A. Jackson defeated the British Army, January 8, 1815. Saw that ditch that was in front of Jackson's line and the ruins of a number of houses in the neighborhood (supposed to have been done by the rockets of the British Army.)

at 7"00 PM, let go our anchor about 8 miles above Ft. St. Philipps (at Placquemine Bend). 16th 6 AM Raised our Anchor. 62 The Filson Club History Quarterly

At 7 passed the Fort before coming up with Fort we hoisted our colors. (The English ensign being aboard the English Brig, Fame, bound for , Capt. Elderston, Commander, loaded with cotton). We had a fine view of the fort through the spy glass, saw the sentinels walking by the flagstaff, and in other parts of the fort, a fair very miserable looking cabin above the fort principally on the right bank of the river. The inhabitants, as were the people of the fort, must have miserable life as the people can hardly live aboard of ship for the sand flies and mos- quitoes. At 3 PM, we let go our own anchor of the Bolivas, the wind being ahead of us. It is impossible to cross the Barr unless the wind is fair. In the afternoon, Mr. Fletcher, the Captain and myself went ashore. Our boat filled with oars (crew) to see the place a sorry looking place it is, not a spot of dry land to set our feet upon. In front of the dwelling where they had a plat- form raised several feet above the level of the ground to walk upon and a little raise walked between the kitchen, and the house and also between each others' house, and the stockade house and the lookout, a place erected for the pilots looking out for vessels coming to the Barr, it is 50 or 60 feet high, where a man is always in the day time, sitting with a spy gIass.

There are two branches of pilots, here each having a lookout and the first who discovers a vessel has the right of piloting her over the barr, for which they are paid $2 for each foot of water the vessel draws and are liable for damage while the vessel is under their charge which ceases when she arrives opposite the Baline, about one mile inside the barr, here a first officer is kept, where inward bound vessels are obliged to deliver their letter bag, and outward bound vessels have an opportunity of sending word back when they get to sea, ,they are sent ashore by the Pilot on his return, who puts them into the PO, as there is no communication with this place by land they have to forward the mail by a boat up to the river to NO. It departs from here every Tuesday about __o'clock. I forwarded letters for Mr. Brain, Mr. J.M. Marton, Mr. P. Shortervalle, J.P. Peters, and Mr. William Watson & Co. under cover to the latter to have them forwarded. There is also a billiard table kept here for accomo- dation of Gentlemen who may be kept here wind-bound during the whole course of the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio downwards, the river runs on a ridge, the land receding on every side, generally from :• to 11/,• miles where it mostly terminates Journal of John Brand 63

in a swamp, there is no settlements lower down than Fort St. Philips. The ridge on which the river runs now becomes very narrow after passing the Fort a small distance we can see the sea on every side and as you can advance to the mouth of the river it becomes a small narrow strip of swampy ground, unfit for any human being to live on. We were very much surprized at the information received from the Piloting that the width of the channel on the Barr is not wider than 200 feet, and not deeper (in the middle) than 15 feet, astonished us more as the river at NO is said to be 80 fathoms. EThe journal then relates an interesting but not very eventful three week journey by ship from New Orleans, past the Florida Straits, to Liverpool.]

June 30, 1818 Left Liverpool in the Lord Exmouth Stage Coach to Ormskirk, beautiful road and the footpath also passed through Ormskirk, Preston and Lancaster. 53 miles (fine road, and very fine cows, thick people, very small fields, generally 2 to 5 acres. July 1, 1818 Lancaster a very ancient town and famed in history. Visited the castle and the church in company of an old quaker, a stage passenger. Left at 5 AM and left Lancaster, passed through Melon, Kirksby, Lansdale, Teedburgh, Kirksbthe where, very hilly, fine romantic scenery, a raining morning (a little to the West are the famous mountains and lakes of Westmoreland County). The clouds this morning is It) way down the hills and moving along the sides of them in a thick fog, has the appearance of smoke ascending from yonder mountains as if there were on fire through Bourough Bows (a great school here for boys sent from London and boarded and clothed by the teacher). Barnard Castle, started by Lord Darlington, seats five places, large deer park and a fine Country) throughout Auckland, Bishop Auck- land, by Durham to Newcastle, 102 miles, fine country and scenery.

July 2, 1818 at 6 AM, left Newcastle in Waterloo stagecoach through Kelso, Coldstream, Blockshields, Dolham to , 120 miles and arrival at 11 o'clock PM on same day. Fare from Liverpool to Edinburgh £2 •5 outside, inside £ (4) ? 64 The Filson Club History Quarterly

Thursday 9th left Edinburgh at 10TM AM. Fine country through Queens Ferry, and the river 2 miles abroad here, crossed in 6 minutes, fare/6 pence. Came through Thinnofs, had a fine view of Loch Leven, and the Island (very smooth from appear- ance) and the castle on it where Queen Mary of Scotland was kept in confinement. Arrived in Perth 5:15 PM, a distance of 44 miles, for 7/ half pence a/o rivalship of the Coaches. Has very poor Country, the grain looking very poor indeed, the tur- nips and a little above the earth. When I was traveling through Lancashire the farmers were very busy putting in their turnips. The farming here not nearly as good as in Lancashire and the land is very poor from Queen Ferry to this place. A great deal of Moor, and with few exceptions only fit for grazing. July 10, 615 AM, left Perth, passed through Coach Angus, Glenis, far and arrived at Brechin after 1TM PM, hired a chaise to Montrose and got there at 4 PM- great changes here since I left. There is not a family of respectability, who was the sup- port of the town when I •vas here, but has failed in business and a great many of the most respectable families entirely extinct. Monday, 13 at 2 PM. left Montrose passed through St. Cyrus, Bervey, Stonehaved and arrived at Aberdeen at 8 PM. Found my Brother William well, who introduced me to John Jopment and other fine, hearty fellows. Spent a week in Aber- deen in company of these hearty fellows, although not the most agreeable in my life, they are too much given to company and disputation, I was often out dining and in consequence invited them (viz. 6 and my brother) to dine with me and I must reprove that their conduct did not leave the most favorable impression on my mind being considered the most respectable Merits in Aber- deen and the Collector of Excise (Campbell) at their head. I thought we could find half a dozen merits (even in KY) that could or would behave themselves more like gentlemen.

July 20. at 5 AM, left Aberdeen in a gig my brother had hired (an hour before the coach that we might have breakfast before the coach arrived). The Coach left Aberdeen at 6 and we had not been at Stonehill (house) more than 10 minutes before she was at our heels. After breakfast I bid adieu to my brother, expecting him to meet me in Montrose with his wife tomorrow. Journal of John Brand 65

In our way from Aberdeen to Montrose, I was told the crops starting early, I thought very short, their turnips were up a little, and they were having them, men and women work on them promiscuously in the fields as our Negroes. I inquired the wage each received and was informed that each man received /8 for day and each woman /6 per day. I asked if they received their victuals also but was answered in the negative. Then says I they would be better to be found in their victuals only their answer was a great deal better, taking in view the price of provisions, viz : oatmeal, 1/8 p. 8 p. for peck of 171/• beef 1/7 p. 13 peck of 17•2 potatoes /11A. per pound for new common prices /11/• per 4 lbs. butter 1/per lb. of 24 oz. The turnip is about 21fi2 to 3 feet (tall), the rows apart and the potatoes about the same. Two turnips are left near each other, and they are 9 inches apart from the other two, thus ** ** ** The furrows are plowed and the ridges very high. The most approvable fences I have seen in or Scot- land are in Lancaster are the divots (or sods). No. 3, the height of the fence are about 2• feet and two through ledge, mainly trimmed with shears.

MONTROSE

Friday, July 31, 1818. I bid farewell to my affectionate parents and walked down to the Bridge in company with Capt. Kinnear (?) at 12 Noon to wait there for the coach and in a few minutes she came and we proceeded. When I bid at last farewell to the Land of my nativity, 230 Got to and north and dined. After dinner walked to Sr. James Peters and I paid him £22.10. According to bequest of his son James, of Louisville, KY. At 103o PM., left Abrborht in mail coach and got to Dundee a little after 1 AM, August 1. Took a walk along the Crosses. I was very much as- tonished at the narrow appearance of it, from my recollection pointed it to me as also the other firths.

As I had no business to settle there at present, I took my seat for Perth where I arrived about 5 in the morning I went to bed at George Inn. 66 The Filson Club History Quarterl•

August 3, (Monday) 430 left Perth on top of mailcoach, dis- tance 44 miles and 2 of water, is 46. Arrived at Edinburgh 11, Fare 10/ 8th went over to Kircaldy to see Mr. Kilgour, about sending out Mr. Bitsy Anderson with his sister. 9th Mr. K. not being in, I hired a horse and went through Auchterral and to Lochgelly 7 miles when I found him, he and I went Kirk (church) with his sister and hushin (poor droning preacher). After dinner, got on our horses and went through Lesley and down to Ploisterens and after putting up our horses, went over and stuffed and stayed all night with Nell Ballingord Brother to David Ballingall at the Blue Licks. 10th. Walked from Kirkcaldy to Petty come. I went over to New Haven and walked to Edinburgh on the evening of llth. Betsy I. came to Edinborough with her Brother Jones and on the morning of the 12th (after consulting with her Mother, Father and family) she agreed to go to Kentucky and live with us, on 13th at 10 AM, she went to Perth to settle her business and did advise her friends. at 12o5 I left Edinborough for to meet Frazier and Harris according to appointments (on the 15th). 15th went to Port Dundalk to see which the trade boat would leave there or Grangemouth, found it leaves every lawful day at 7 and 11 AM, fare 4/cabin, 2/steerage. As you can see the hill there is two tracks of iron for the wheels of carts running on to ease the horses the going up the hill. Each track 8" wide. Immediately on the road there is one of the finest, most ex- tensive quarries ever I saw. The stones, raised by cranes, and looks to something like sheers and laid into carts, great carts, a great number of men and horses and carts emptied. 17th, Mr. Frazier, J. Harus arrived from Glasgow and spent this day driving through Glasgow and on the 18th day left Port Dundalk on the trash boat for Loch. No. 16, 4 miles from Grangemouth for 4/11 Cabin, and •-2/ the Coach for Grangemouth 4 miles for 1/•-1/6. Arrived at G. on deck arrived at lock a few minutes before one PM. Got into at 1s°, at 2 left there in the tug Steamboat for White Haven fore 3/6 in the first cabin and 2/11 in the aft cabin. Took some re- Journal of John Brand 67 freshments on board and arrived at N. Haven at 5 Plg, got into Coach and went to Bardy's Hotel, Adams Square. Spent this evening and two following days visiting the old and new town and left them on 21st on Coach for Newcastle on Tyne (120 miles) for out(side fare) 28/. Arrived at Lotlas Hotel at 1045- 22. on Coach and I went to Durham, 15 miles (fare 3/6 outside) -- we visited the Cathedral. The Castle or Abbey where the Lord Bishop of Durham lives, when the Courts sit here to entertain the Court officers. Two very ancient buildings. Beau- tious walks on River and some very fine views from different parts of the Palace and the different hills of the city stands upon. While in Edinburgh I took the following inscription from a tombstone in the Cannongate Churchyard over the remains of the Scottish poet Ferguson and placed there by Robert Burns the Poet : "No sculptured marble here, no pompous lawy, no stored urn, nor animated Bust. This simple stone directs hale Scotius' way To pour her famous acts and her Poet's dust." After Robert Burns' death, an admirer of his placed the fol- lowing : "0' Rohbie Burns, the man, the Brother, and art thou gone, and gone forever. and hast thou crossed that unknown river, Life's dreary Bound. Like this, where shall we find another, the world around Go to your sculptured tombs, ye great In a the tincel trash of State But by the honest tomb I'll wait. Thou Mar/of Worth, and weep the sweetest poet's fate ever lived on Earth." R. Burns, barn January 29, 1759, at Doonside Died, Dumfries, July 22, 1790 23rd Left Durham at 730 AM and reached between 5 and 6 PM, 81 miles for fare 18/outside. 24th arrived. York minister a very ancient building, well worth seeing. I heard part of the morning service which is per- formed there twice every day, the whole year. I heard the organ 68 The Filson Club History Quarterly was said by the parson who was with us that it was the finest organ in the kingdom. Left New York at 11 o'clock AM and arrived at Market Weight at 2 PM. 19 miles for 4/11--eat dinner at MW. Left there at 380 and arrived at George Smith's at about 5 o'clock. 26th at 7•0 left Mr. Smith's to meet the Hull coach (that stops near the mouth of his lane a few minutes before 8, at 515 PM. We arrived at , a distance of 46 miles, a fare outside at 11/6. It has been a very poor country generally. After you pass Marpath until you pass Lancaster several miles when the land and crops improves considerably. Beautiful scenery between and Sheffield. Arrived at Sheffield in the evening of the 26th. 27th very burey [busy- ed.]. viewing of Hull in ordering pen knives and scissors, table knives and forks. 28th Left Sheffield for 38 miles for 10/outside. Viewed N. and perused stockings, silk, and cotton. Thought they may be purchased as low in London or Liverpool, look over seat for Leicester (or Luster) 26 miles for fare 4/6 where we arrived at dark. I took our seat from here to London, 98 miles, fare 20/ outside and left Leicester at 5 AM this 29th and arrived in Lon- don after 7 PM. With few exceptions it has been a very poor country to all appearances from afternoon. Pdss Monpeth until you pass Don- caster, the country then improves in quality and scenery and continues so with few exceptions all the way to London. The most desirable parts for residency are in the neighborhood of Notting- ham, Leicester and London. September 17. We have been viewing London and its curiosi- ties, viz, the Tower, St. Paul's Church, and its whispering gal- lery and as high as the gallery where we had a fine view of the City, Burgh, Thames R. but our view was rather contracted on account of smoking rising from houses and chimneys [smog problem in 1818! -- ed.]. Greenwich (5 miles below the city) its painted chapel and docks, West's paintings, Westminister Abbey, House of Lords and Commons, St. James Palace and Park, the Horse Guards, and Different Bridges, Kensington Palace and Gardens, Hyde Park. Last Sunday, went through Richmond where we bad a fine view of the Country from Richmond and Journal of John Brand 69 buildings to Hampton Court and its paintings. I viewed Busby Park and thousands of houses in our back and I got back to London about 9 PM. During our stay here, the Bartholemew Fair took place, a place of great resort and amusement for the lower classes in the evenings. Friday evening the 18th September at 4 PM., left London in the Coburg Coach for Coventry, 92 miles, fare 17/. I arrived at C, the 19th at 6 AM. It is very ancient City, quite a mean looking place and everything going to decay. I did not see one house or anything else building but famed for manufacture of ribbons and watches. 19. After breakfast I walked around Country and Churches, keeping Tom and company. During my walk took very sick. I came in and ordered some brandy, and warm water and sugar-- but before it came in Mrs. Ferndon arrived and she ordered the same--after a little I found myself getting worse. I went to bed, I had not been long in bed before the maid-- (?). I asked her the Mistress of the House (Mrs. Hall) came up and was so tender and attentive (putting on my night cap, putting the clothes over my feet, etc.) that it just made me so much in mind of home. I felt a few drops coming down my cheeks- in short that poor audience said I should be sick during my absence from home, there is no place I would have preferred than Coventry having a kind landlady and housemaid. The Physician was called in and administered by his apothe- cary the charge of £4.5.9 [this seems extraordinarily high even for a doctor and pharmacist in 1818 --ed.] during the night and I found myself much better. In the morrow at 8 AM, we left Coventry for where we arrived about 1:00 AM, the fare from C. to B. being 2/6. 23rd at 605 AM left Birmingham for Liverpool. 104 miles from 21 and arrived at 9 PM, went to my old lodging, The Castle Inn, Lords Street. October 1, went on to the People, (John Williams) bound to New York, passage 45 guineas, at 12 Noon, Coast boom, far wind. 2 PM off Honey Head, in company with The Marta (Sketchley) wind ahead, beating down the Chan- nel. [Another rather uneventful trans-Atlantic journey follows] October 14. We helped a schooner bound to Phila. at 8 AM. 70 The Filson Club History Quarterly

Saw the high land of NY sink and hove out a light for a pilot. At 9 AM, pilot came aboard. At 11 dropped an anchor opposite the light house. At 5is AM raised our anchor on fair wind after scraping the hook. At 900 AM, Get out of New York, thank God. 20th left NY in steamboat, via New Brunswick, Trenton to Bristol [Brand was obviously traveling the Delaware-Raritan Canal, long ago defunct -- ed.] and arrived at Phila. at 10 A.M. through 21. Fare $4.50, dinner 75/100 and breakfast 30/100. October 27, Left Phila. and arrived Pittsburgh 30, at 2 PM. 1818. Dec. 7, Left Pittsburgh on the stage and after diverse accidents arrived home [Lexington- ed.], the 16th.

JB. John Brand was never to return to Scotland. He remained in business in Lexington, becoming one of its most prominent and wealthiest citizens, until his retirement in 1833. He was a found- er of a number of banks, owned a prize stock breeding farm, con- tributed to a number of charities and was a close friend of Henry Clay as well as being a bastion of the Whig Party. He had a number of children, all but two of whom predeceased him. I-Ie died in 1849 of the cholera, leaving a fortune estimated at $450.000.1 He was many things, this wide-ranging and widely traveled Scotsman. But perhaps the greatest tribute of all was that of a Scottish paper which wrote simply after his visit of 1818 : "Truly, he was one honest man in America." (Dundee Courier, Septem- ber, 1820)

1 Biographical materiaIs are taken from Biographical Encyclopedia oF Kentucky (Cin- cinnati, Ohio: J. M. Arn•trong & Co., 1878), pp. 594-97.