Superior sparkle ‘We’re a much smaller zone, so we’ve been able to better Forget cheap and cheerful fizz – Asoslo Prosecco is a quality artisan sparkling wine, made in various sophisticated styles. Tom Hyland maintain the artisanal introduces the leading producers and recommends bottles to try philosophy’ Simone Rech
ANYONE WHO HASN’T been living on another would now only refer to the wine, and not the planet will know that Prosecco has enjoyed grape that served as the base of these The most distinctive style made here is col tremendous success in the marketplace over products; that would be known as Glera, fondo, made via refermentation in the the past decade, becoming a go-to choice for a former designation for this variety. bottle, and not in a tank, as with most the many wine drinkers looking for easy, The Asolo Prosecco area lies directly south examples of Prosecco (a small percentage of moderately priced bubbles. And for those in of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene zone, and is Conegliano Valdobbiadene production is search of something more complex than the much smaller, comprising 1,600ha to the also made in this style). Literally meaning majority of Prosecco bottles jostling for shelf 6,500ha of the latter. Around 10 million ‘with sediment’, col fondo has sediment at space, Conegliano Valdobbiadene has achieved bottles of Asolo Prosecco were produced in the bottom of the bottle, as the wine is not wide recognition as being a step up in quality. 2017, compared to 90 million of Conegliano disgorged; causing a cloudy appearance. Yet it’s not the only option. Only a few miles Valdobbiadene. Being much smaller, Asolo has Mirco Pozzobon, winemaker at Case away, the artisans of the far less well-known much work to do around raising awareness. Paolin, remarks that, ‘Col fondo has a long Asolo Prosecco zone have also made great tradition due to the technical simplicity of strides, and are today releasing some notable Quality styles production compared to the Charmat examples that are, in addition, among the While marketing strategies change over time, method, which requires more technology.’ most distinctive. The two areas are officially the one constant producers can control is So why make such a wine today, recognised as being superior. In 2009, the quality, which is quite good for the most part, especially when people are so familiar with decision was made to elevate Prosecco to although some inconsistencies emerge with squeaky-clean Prosecco? ‘Lees protect the DOCG status for wines made in the hills of the certain wines. Extra Dry (between 12g and wine, so there’s no need to add sulphites,’ Treviso province; other examples from Italy 20g of residual sugar) is the most popular notes Paola Ferraro, co-owner at Bele Casel – including those from Friuli – would be category, and while there are some examples winery. ‘We’re very proud of this wine. It really labelled as DOC. Two wines were granted that truly shine (Pat del Colmèl’s version is speaks of the soil and the people who make it.’ DOCG status: Conegliano Valdobbiadene stellar), far too often these wines display little Pozzobon explains that col fondo has been Prosecco Superiore and Asolo Prosecco personality, offering only a gentle sweetness a great success for his winery, and that he is Superiore. In addition, the word Prosecco with a modest aromatic profile. ‘especially surprised’ by the appreciation this Far better are the Extra Brut wines, as these wine has received in export markets such as are substantially drier (6g/l and less of the UK, the US, Denmark and even France. residual sugar), and present a much more Bele Casel has enjoyed similar success, and expressive aromatic profile – from melon, often sells several vintages concurrently; lemon rind and ginger to candied orange and tasting through five vintages at the winery acacia flowers – with notable complexity and revealed the impressive complexity of these
Larry Washburn, Floortje/Getty Images Floortje/Getty Washburn, Larry greater persistence. For now, Asolo Prosecco is wines, with notes of brewer’s yeast and lemon the only Prosecco that can be labelled as Extra rind coming through in several examples. The Brut, which is a positive sales point, although 2009 displays beautiful freshness after more
GitoTrevisan, GitoTrevisan, this term will soon be allowed for Prosecco than eight years, while the 2014 combines from Conegliano Valdobbiadene. excellent concentration with notable persistence; these wines show how distinctive
Photograph: Photograph: Left: sunset over the hills of Asolo Asolo Prosecco can truly be. ➢
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Artisan approach Keeping in mind how small this area is, it is The red wines of Asolo not surprising that most of the estates are limited in production, which in turn means The Asolo Prosecco production excellent ones: Antonio, mainly greater specialisation. ‘We’re a much smaller zone is part of a larger DOC known Merlot with small amounts of zone, so we’ve been able to better maintain as Asolo Montello; within this Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet the artisanal philosophy,’ comments Simone appellation, wines are labelled as Franc and Recantina; and the more Rech, owner of Tenuta Amadio. While his Montello-Colli Asolani DOC, while classically styled Umberto I. The statement is clearly a generalisation, as there there are also some red wines that 2009 is splendid, displaying ripe are a few producers that offer average quality, can be labelled as Montello DOCG. red cherry fruit and firm tannins. more often than not the local vintners do take (A small amount of white is made Save it for seven to 10 years. that extra step. here, but the most accomplished The finest and most renowned Perhaps the most evident example of that is still wines are the reds.) Bordeaux red of the area is the displayed at Loredan Gasparini, in the hamlet There are two basic styles, one Capo di Stato from Loredan of Volpago del Montello, situated in the made from an indigenous variety Gasparini. First made in 1964, from southern reaches of the production zone. Best known as Recantina, and the a vineyard planted in 1946, it’s a known for making a celebrated red Bordeaux second, Bordeaux blends. Planted blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, blend known as Capo di Stato for five decades here since the 1870s, Recantina has Cabernet Franc and Malbec. One of (see box), owner Lorenzo Palla has recently flavours of red cherry and plum, the longest continuously produced expanded his output of Asolo Prosecco, with with moderate tannins and healthy Bordeaux blends in Italy, it’s a four distinct examples. Along with the acidity; some versions glorious achievement, entry-level DOCG Superiore products, there is recall a cru Beaujolais offering great also a line known as Cuvée Indigena, and one in their exuberance, complexity, beautiful named Monti, both produced from grapes of a while others are more acidity and marvellous single vineyard planted in 1975. Finally, he northern Rhône-like structure. The current crafts a classical-method Prosecco, although in their density. The 2012 is outstanding the words ‘metodo classico’ do not appear on best examples are and should age the label, due to regulations. from Ida Agnoletti, gracefully for 12-20 All of the Gasparini wines offer lovely Pat del Colmèl and years; vintages back freshness and impressive varietal purity, but Giusti’s Augusto, with to the 1980s are still most of all they are refined, with notable ageing ability from drinking well. complexity. The Monti 2016, from a warm five to seven years. year, is a bit short on the finish, but otherwise If Bordeaux Left: Loredan displays very good focus; while the 2013, from blends are more your Gasparini’s an exceptional growing season, offers complex thing, Giusti has two Capo di Stato
Photograph: Francesco Gali Francesco Photograph: fruit aromas, along with the structure and
depth of fruit to show well in another two to three years. The Cuvée Indigena 2016 has excellent persistence and complexity, along with a great sense of finesse. It is a true pleasure to witness how this producer – known for years for its Bordeaux-blend red – has become one of the foremost Prosecco producers in the area. Other noteworthy Asolo Proseccos include the Montelvini Extra Dry, with its enticing ginger and yellow peach aromatics, and delicate sweetness; the Ghisolana Extra Dry, which has greater floral aromas, and is drier than most other Extra Dry examples; and the Tenuta Baron Extra Dry Millesimato 2016, which displays very pretty aromas of orange blossom, jasmine and magnolia, supported by excellent persistence. ➢
Left: Lorenzo Palla of Loredan Gasparini
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Growing profile ‘In addition to the unique territory, there is A significant endorsement of the quality of a unique terroir in Asolo, with hills of volcanic these products is the fact that two Conegliano origin, along with the Montello hills having Valdobbiadene producers, Astoria and Villa deep soils rich in iron. Thanks to this, we can Sandi, have recently produced their first Asolo produce Prosecco of excellent structure and Prosecco wines – having the competition, so distinct minerality, especially with the Extra to speak, join the group, is undoubtedly a Brut versions,’ he adds. welcome sign, and a boost for the whole Asolo For Armando Serena, president of the Prosecco category. Consorzio Vini Asolo Montello, old-fashioned Getting back to the comparison with the hard work via promotion has to go hand in much better known area of Conegliano hand with success in the vineyards and Valdobbiadene, what should the producers of cellars. ‘Conegliano Valdobbiadene has been Asolo Prosecco be doing to give their products deeply involved in promoting Prosecco for greater awareness among wine drinkers in the more than 50 years and producers there are marketplace? ‘Above all, we should tell them now reaping the rewards of their serious work. about our territory,’ comments Pozzobon. ‘Our We became deeply involved several years later, Tom Hyland is a zone is historically one of the most important so we must bring our own identity to the Chicago-based wine in Veneto and in fact, in all of Italy. Important “Superiore” concept. We must improve our author and educator battles during the First World War were fought communication, day by day. We are aware it specialising in on the Montello hill. will take time, but this is our vision.’ D Italian wines
Hyland’s pick of Asolo Prosecco
Bele Casel, Colfòndo 2014 Loredan Gasparini, Cuvée is very dry with good finesse and harmony; 92 Indigena Extra Brut 2015 90 it should evolve nicely over the next two N/A UK www.belecasel.com £20 3Venice Wine years. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 11% Aromas very similar to an Deep yellow colour, with exotic Italian blonde beer, with fruit notes of banana, mango Martignago, Xero NV 89 notes of lemon rind and a hint and pineapple on the nose. N/A UK www.martignago.wine of brown sugar. Rich mid- Lightly sweet on the palate, this White peach and melon aromas palate, lengthy finish, good offers delicate flavours, but on the nose. This is quite rich on acidity, great complexity; precise varietal character too. the palate, with an extremely very much in the style of a Makes for an ideal aperitif. dry finish that is somewhat natural wine, this has evolved Drink 2018-2020 Alc 11.5% surprising for Prosecco. It lacks beautifully. Drink 2018-2023 Alcohol 11% finesse, but there’s plenty Case Paolin, Col Fondo NV 90 happening on the palate. Ida Agnoletti, Selva N. 55 NV 91 £15-£17 Vini Italiani, WoodWinters Drink 2018-2021 Alc 11.5% N/A UK www.idaagnoletti.it Slightly cloudy appearance, with a delicate Aromas of magnolia, lemon rind, cereal yellow hue. Aromas of yeasty notes, lemon Montelvini, Superiore grain and sunflower oil. Very good rind, lemon oil and lilacs. Very good Extra Brut NV 88 persistence and acidity on the palate, with concentration and persistence, with a light £14.99 Robinsons wonderful complexity; off-dry. Proof that a touch of yellow spice in the finish. Beautiful Expressive perfumes of frizzante can offer notable quality and texture. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 11.5% ginger, jasmine and green character. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 11.5% apple. Medium-full, this is Cirotto, Superiore Extra Brut 2017 90 subtle in its delivery and is Pat del Colmèl, Superiore £22.99 Just Perfect Wines dry, with very good acidity Extra Dry NV 90 Inviting aromas of acacia flowers and and varietal character. N/A UK www.patdelcolmel.it melon; rich mid-palate, quite dry, ideal Drink 2018-2020 Alc 11.5% Aromas of dried apricot, gum balance and a clean finish with impressive leaves, ginger and lilacs. persistence. Complex and rich enough for Amadio, Superiore Brut NV 88 Beautiful freshness and clarity, lighter seafood. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 11.5% £12 Waud Wines with a lightly sweet finish that’s Clean and dry on the palate, this is backed by lively acidity. Much Bele Casel, Extra Brut NV 90 beautifully made, offering aromas of red more character than the typical £14.95 Berry Bros & Rudd apple, melon and lilies. Lovely varietal Extra Dry Prosecco. Drink Perfumes of pear, grapefruit and cream. character; beautifully fresh and delicious. 2018-2020 Alc 11% Medium-full with excellent persistence, this Drink 2018-2020 Alc 11.5%
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