25.01.19

Paradise Found is this 2019’s hoTTesT destination?

Plus: cult oF MAyA JAMA’s clEAN My loNdoN, The dEbAtE Cold snaP dividiNg the Candles cApitAl …and our NEW coluMNist

Nicholas Actor. Father. Wearer of Hoult excellent hats

editor’s letter laura weir 5

Go on, ’fess up. Did you pick up ES this week just because of the mad and brilliant hat our cover star, Nicholas Hoult, is wearing? Don’t worry, I don’t blame you — it is an excellent hat, one that the JeWeLLerY ‘Girl with a Pearl Marcus in About a Boy might have favoured. But Hoult is a boy no Earring 2.0.’ Hernán more. On page 28 he opens up to Frankie McCoy about fatherhood, Herdez Caged Pearl earrings, £124 each life in Los Angeles and his astonishingly varied CV. (hernanherdez.com) Elsewhere we introduce our new columnist, Louis Wise, on page 23. Louis replaces the brilliant Ben Machell, who has left these pages after three years to write a book of his own, and Louis will bring his singular wit each week. On page 14 we’re celebrating the fact that London is home to some of the world’s best chefs with a feature in which photographer Alistair Morrison has paid editor in chief 4 Laura Weir homage to the legendary figures who have ruled the capital’s @laura_weir kitchens for decades, from Clare Smyth to Fergus Henderson. If you’re feeling inspired, we have exclusive recipes from each chef online: the link is on page 19. Here are the Then we have a feature on the philosophical question dividing editor’s top five picks our country — no, not Brexit, but instead the debate on whether you of the week should ‘Marie Kondo’ your life. Two writers go head to head over the benefit of following the guru’s decluttering gospel on page 25, while later in the issue we talk about intuitive eating. A welcome reminder after the deluge of unrealistic new year diets that actually, we the frAGrAnce should just listen to our bodies sometimes. So grab a Hobnob, if you ‘Perfume oils tend to linger fancy it, and kick back with this week’s issue. Enjoy! longer on the skin. This one comes in a divine bottle.’ guCCI BeAuTY A nocturnal Whisper, £295, at net-a-porter.com

the BAG ‘Get on your bike — in style.’ JW AnderSon bag, £980, 2 at matchesfashion.com 3

the BooK ‘I can’t wait for the latest instalment in Smith’s remarkable series, Seasonal Quartet.’ the tV ‘Spring’ by Ali Smith (£16.99, ‘Is it art? Is it a telly? Who knows, but it sure 1 Hamish Hamilton) is out in March as hell looks chic.’ SAMSung The Frame Art Mode TV, from £949, at johnlewis.com

Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us: @eveningstandardmagazine @ESmagofficial @ESmagofficial

Editor in chief Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Acting deputy editor rosamund dean Art director Ben turner Fashion director at large Bay Garnett Fashion features director Katrina israel Arts & entertainment director dipal Acharya Acting features director nick curtis Art editor Jessica Landon Senior fashion editor Sophie van der Welle Acting fashion features director rachael dove Picture editor eithne Staunton Fashion editor Sophie Paxton Acting fashion editor robyn Kotze Associate features editor hamish MacBain Picture assistant Madalina Loghin Fashion assistant Jessica Skeete-cross Features writer frankie Mccoy Beauty and health director rose Beer Chief sub editor Matt hryciw Office administrator/PA to the editorn iamh o’Keeffe Senior contributing editor richard Gray Deputy chief sub editor nick howells Contributing editors Lucy carr-ellison, tony chambers, James corden, richard Godwin, daisy hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, david Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel rivkin, nicky Yates (style editor at large)

Group client strategy director deborah rosenegk Head of magazines christina irvine ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their

Billy Scheepers. Cover: Nicholas Hoult photographed by Luc Coiffait. Styled by Rose Forde. Rose by Styled Coiffait. Luc by photographed Hoult Nicholas Cover: Scheepers. Billy 5000) 7647 (020 £825 top, polo £585; top, rollneck £2,970; jacket, £535; hat, PRADA agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2018. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited

25.01.19 es magazine 

capital gains What to do in London 1 by FRANKIE McCOy First seed Time to get to know the art of terribly cool El Seed, who incorporates Arabic calligraphy into his large-scale works in Tunisia (above) and on the streets of Paris, Rio and Cape Town — catch his canvases at his first UK solo exhibition 3 at Lazinc. 25 Jan to 9 Mar (lazinc.com) Bonner chance What’s January without a multisensory installation to see you through the dark days? Über- chic designer Grace Wales Bonner is taking over the Serpentine Sackler for a month to explore mysticism, ritual and black culture through site-specific shrines, imagery and meditation workshops. Until 16 Feb 2 (serpentinegalleries.org) dark matter So, tickets to Martin Crimp’s When We Have Sufficiently Tortured Each Other, starring all your Cate Blanchett (above) in her vault debut at the National Theatre, There’s a huge sold out in about four seconds arts festival flat. The good news? There are 4coming to town in the still day tickets left for this dark, form of Vault: 400 warped tale of domination. performances of theatre, Wrap up and get queuing. comedy and immersive Tickets from £10. Until 2 Mar experiences by the likes of (nationaltheatre.org.uk) Battleacts (above) across 7 Waterloo. Until 17 Mar tartan frenzy Salt of the earth (vaultfestival.com) It’s Burns Night and while whisky Not only is Hackney’s sloshes all over town, the most Earth Kitchen in a cool American psycho reliably debauched party is at location (an old art In the run-up to the Oscars, Quo Vadis. Lee Tiernan of deco cinema) with a you should be at the cinema Black Axe Mangal rocks cool chef (former St John every week. Next? Politico- 5 up to cook mad delicacies exec chef, Chris Gillard) comedy Vice, starring such as last year’s foie cooking seasonal British grub, Christian Bale as US vice- gras doughnuts while there’s a banging music line-up president Dick Cheney and the bagpipes blast to boot, with Thursday jazz Amy Adams (right, with and kilts go flying.Tickets £55. nights and Sunday DJ sets. Bale) as his wife. Out 25 Jan 25 Jan (quovadissoho.co.uk) 6 Now open (earthackney.co.uk) last chance: see off January by diving into the rivalry- look ahead: another hot theatre show to sell your granny struck Renaissance at the National Gallery’s Mantegna and Bellini for tickets to: Arthur Miller’s The Price at Wyndham’s Theatre,

IllustrationBowles;JonathanMachas;Alamy; RexCalugiby @ courtesyLazinc;Seed Jamie andMorgan;Spirituals GraceBonner,Tom El Wales by II exhibition before it closes on 27 Jan (nationalgallery.org.uk) starring David Suchet. 5 Feb to 27 Apr (delfontmackintosh.co.uk)

for more things to do around town, visit standard.co.uk/go/london 25.01.19 Es MAgAzINE 5 upfront Laura Craik on her (slightly) European DNA, stepping aboard the ‘faged’ train and Andy Murray’s long overdue love-in

aybe it’s a Brexit thing, but suddenly London seems obsessed with DNA testing: not the Jeremy Kyle kind, but the kind that lets you know your true Continental chic: Methnicity. To my knowledge, I have not mothered any from far left, Lily unsuspecting children — I think I’d have remembered — Rose Depp is half French; the but I’m well up for discovering some exotic blood. We embodiment of may not know where we’re going (off a cliff, clearly) but French glamour, Marion Cotillard the desire to know where we came from is strong. If we are to be cast out of Europe, perhaps the consolation of having European blood swirling around our veins is a cheering fragment we can shore against our ruin. I send off for a DNA testing kit. I choose 23andMe, on the basis that it was namechecked in The Kominsky Method by Alan Arkin. I spit “ I’m determined to into a test tube, send off the sample to some lab be French on the in North Carolina and wait six weeks for the basis that a French results. During this time, I receive breathless emails informing me that ‘we’re genotyping your DNA!’, person once told me which would be exciting if I knew what it meant. I looked French. Nonetheless, I am excited. One of my friends recently He was drunk” discovered she is partly Indian; another is delighted at having Danish blood. Despite looking more Scottish than the lovechild of Jimmy Krankie and a Highland cow, I’m determined to be French on the basis that a French person once told me that I looked French. He was drunk. It was dark. But I’ll take it. Six weeks later, the results come in. Oh, balls. I am 85.2 per cent British. Only 1.5 per cent of my ancestry is Scandinavian, although 5.6 per cent is ‘French or 1984 to 1992 as inspiration, employing German’. Just as I’m starting to feel enthused (the advanced 3D technologies to superimpose creases and drunk bloke was right!) I click on the ‘interactive stains. Debuted at the Paris menswear shows, the new ancestry composition map’ and note that only Germany RS Stans (of which there are three) will be available to is highlighted. Far from being distantly related to Alain buy in April. Or you could root around at the back of Delon or Marion Cotillard, the report claims my your wardrobe and see what dusty, knackered old creps HOT RiRi Vuitton ancestors are from Lower Saxony, ‘a modern and high- you can find. Not its real name, but achieving location for industry and science’ and ‘a with ‘multiple sources’ claiming Rihanna is set leading business and trade show location’, according to love all to launch a luxury label one website. It is the ultimate ‘computer says no’. Oh In honour of Burns Night, I’d like to join with the backing of LVMH, start betting on well. At least I’m European. Although I every other person in Britain in its moniker. didn’t need a DNA test to tell me that. extolling the virues of Andy Murray, It’s in my soul. who is not Rabbie Burns, though if the idolatry keeps coming it seems likely that future Fageing generations will be celebrating Murray Night NOT graceFully and eating ice cream (his favourite food) upskiRting Finally to become a Just when you instead of haggis. Happy as I am that he’s crime carrying a two- thought Stan Smiths finally getting therespect he deserves, I year sentence. Props to Gina Martin for her could withstand no wish the love-bombing had started earlier, tireless campaign. further and not just now that he’s injured and permutations, approaching retirement, ergo exonerated along comes Raf Simons with another remix, from the shallow love/hate narrative that this time a vintage one. I’m no great fan of the defines the world of sport. It wasn’t so long #faged (fake aged) look — I’m still recovering ago that some pundits were criticising him from seeing a £215 pair of deliberately dirtied for being ‘dour’ and ‘duller than a weekend in Converse All Stars in Harrods — but this is Raf and, Worthing’. Joni Mitchell was right: you don’t

Raf being Raf, he has drawn on archive sneakers from know what you’ve got till it’s gone. Getty

 es magazine 25.01.19

THE most WANTED GUCCI shell necklace, £1,480; small pendant, £530; large pendant, £615, all at matchesfashion.com

get stoned …with Gucci’s semi-precious pendants

PHOTOGRAPH BY AnA cuBA STYLED BY ROBYn kOTzE 25.01.19 es magazine 9

Martina Boaretto and Sofia Prantera FLASHBULB! Party pictures from around town

by FRANKIE McCOy phOtOgRAphs by jAMEs pEltEKIAN Denise van Outen

George the Katherine Poet Jenkins Serena Rees and Paul Simonon Victoria Amber Pendleton Le Bon Luella Bartley Rafferty Jeremy and Roksanda Law Deller Ilinčić Rachel Juggling act, Riley Stonehenge chic, Kensington Aldwych Dame Kelly Oh, they flew through What do you get when you Holmes the air with the cross Neolithic paganism, greatest of ease, as very cool label Aries Cirque du Soleil Edie and very cool artist premiered its new Campbell Jeremy Deller? show Totem at Some very, very the Royal Albert David Sims cool clothes, as and Mickey Hall, with Edie Campbell and Munroe Kelly Brook, Giles Deacon Victoria discovered over Pendleton, Kelly Cîroc vodka and Rafferty Brook Hannah duck pies at Law and Tointon the launch of Kay Burley the Wiltshire looking on. Before Christ Kay Burley show at 180 Daps The Strand. Damson Giles Idris Deacon Wilson Oryema

Joe Cole Jodie Olly Harsh Murs Gordon and Fat Tana Ramsay Tony

Dylan Jones, Victoria and hail the male, David Beckham Marylebone London Fashion Week Men’s wouldn’t Clara Amfo be complete without a whisky-fuelled, and Tinie Beckham-led GQ party to round off, so it Tempah was off to the Brasserie of Light with Victoria and David, Tinie Tempah and Olly Murs for Haig Club Manhattans by the bucketload.

go to Standard.co.uk/inSider For more PartY PictureS 25.01.19 Es MAgAzINE 11

top of the chops London’s longest-serving, fad- swerving culinary legends are captured in their element... and packing up hampers for charity

PhotograPhS BY AlistAir morrison

hen it comes to food, London fetish- ises the new. In 2018 alone, 167 inde- pendent restaurants opened in the capital while 117 closed their doors for good. Food is big business: the UK W hospitality sector as a whole is worth around £100 billion and the race to adopt the latest trend in order to pull in often-fickle customers is fierce. Whether it’s vegan food or sourdough pizza, restaurants open and close and chefs come and go depending on what’s hot week to week. On the one hand, that’s great — constant innovation pushes boundaries and ensures London retains its rightful title as one of the planet’s most exciting places to eat. On the other hand, the perpetual race for the new can mean a disregard for the steadfast, for putting in the hours over years and honing one’s craft. As Fred Sirieix of BBC2’s Million Pound Menu succinctly put it to the Big Hospitality website: ‘People are always looking for something new.’ But there is a brigade of chefs who buck this trend for the flash-in-the-pan. These are cooks who have been in professional kitchens for decades, whose dishes have influ- enced and inspired a whole generation, who put in the hard graft back when English food was mocked and who helped put Britain on the culinary map. These chefs are legends. That’s why photographer Alistair Morrison has chosen to celebrate 18 of them, nine of whom we’ve featured here, in his own inimitable style. It’s all in aid of The Felix Project, a charity that collects fresh, unsold food and distributes it to other charities to help the most vulnerable in our soci- ety. Each chef has curated a picnic hamper to be auc- tioned off at a private reception at Fortnum & Mason later this month, with the chef in question then cooking a menu of fresh food from the hamper for the highest bidder. As food writer Matthew Fort, a legend in his own right, puts it, chefs are ‘public heroes, like rock musi- cians. They have the same combination of creative energy and professional discipline, and I think we should cele- brate them in the same way as we do creative artists.’

Marcus Wareing Chef-patron of the Michelin-starred Marcus at The Berkeley since 1999, with a stable of other restaurants that includes Tredwells and The Gilbert Scott

14 es mAgAzine 25.01.19 Sally Clarke Opened the hugely influential, French-inspired Clarke’s in Kensington Church Street in 1984 — Lucian Freud’s favourite restaurant, where he breakfasted daily for years

Mark Hix Champion of British food, particularly oysters, smoked salmon and beef, with six restaurants across the capital

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Tom Kerridge His Marlow pub The Hand and Flowers was the first pub to ever gain two Michelin stars; last year he opened his first London restaurant, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at the Corinthia Hotel, to near-universal acclaim

Clare Smyth First female UK chef to hold three Michelin stars and voted World’s Best Female Chef in 2018. Her fine-dining restaurant, Core, won two Michelin stars last year

Fergus Henderson Pioneered ‘nose-to-tail’ eating and spearheaded the revival of eating offal. His modern British restaurant, St John, holds one Michelin star and is a London institution

25.01.19 es magazine 17

Nathan Outlaw A long-time champion of Cornish produce with three restaurants in Cornwall, he recently closed his Michelin-starred restaurant at Knightsbridge’s The Capital Hotel. In May he will open a restaurant at Belgravia’s grand dame hotel, The Goring

Jason Atherton Has launched 20 restaurants in the past decade, from New York Italian to Japanese and tapas, including the Michelin-starred fine- dining Pollen Street Social, with yet another opening later this year

Angela Hartnett She opened her one Michelin star Italian restaurant, Murano, 10 years ago to great acclaim and her empire now spans two Café Muranos, Merchants Tavern and Hampshire’s Lime Wood Hotel

For recipes from the chefs, visit www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/esmagazine/chefs-legacy

25.01.19 es magazine 19

WICkeR WIngs bucket bags, style notes £295; tote (below), £320, at What we love now net-a-porter.com

EDITED by hannah rochEll

Fit AF Activewear doesn’t get more stylish than Ernest Leoty, which works with couture eRnest leOty labels and technical bodysuit, £250 (ernestleoty.com) experts for super-chic Olympian-level gear. Wicker World The brother and sister team from Manchester behind Wicker Wings began their brand when they were inspired by eRnest leOty crop top, £115 their grandmother’s traditional Chinese handwoven wicker skills. These beaut bucket bags (top) are an exclusive eRnest leOty shortie, £150 collaboration with Net-A-Porter. Fetch it! Clockwise from right, Available exclusively at Farfetch.com, this sCOtCH & sODA mules collection of 110 reimagined Balenciaga pieces (available March), £90; sandals, £80; mules, £90 centres on the environment, and features (scotch-soda.com) illustrations of endangered animals. It’s a move that ties in with the brand’s directional shift to focus on conscientious creativity. Available from 29 Jan (farfetch.com) InStARglam Bold slogan and alphabet sweaters make for ideal Insta fodder. We love these from Hades — all handcrafted in Scotland. @hades_wool

fresh base Delicate dresses sit pretty between giant Soda StReAm granite sculptures at Scotch & Soda is launching its first-ever Alexander McQueen’s footwear collection, mirroring the label’s new flagship at 27 Old bohemian vibes with raffia weaves Bond Street. Look out and gingham checks. for exhibitions and Available 28 Jan. talks, hosted on the sCOtCH ‘experiential’ second & sODA floor among pieces sandals, £80 from the archive. (alexandermcqueen.com) Follow us at @eveningstandardmagazine IllustrationJonathanMachas; Calugiby Butcher;@ Rosie Weert; MikaelJellede Olssou

25.01.19 Es magazInE 21

wood wood jacket, £370; trousers, £125; eye bag T-shirt, £50; hat, £60; trainers, £310 baniSher (woodwood.com) This is Clinique for Men’s Super Energizer wise Anti-Fatigue Depuffing Eye Gel — say that after a couple words of shandies. It rolls under your eye to lift Our new columnist and brighten man- bags, and doesn’t Louis Wise on living contain chemicals that with the neighbours make your eyes water. It’s also small enough from heaven to fit in your gym bag. £26 (clinique.co.uk) here comes a time in every Londoner’s life when you decide you should befriend your neighbours. The city is so cold, you say; people are so cruel. You really yearn for a senseT of community! Because what more do you need Top lad than someone else to cancel drinks with? Better yet, Ace coats, great hoodies, ‘just-wide-enough’ chinos someone with a bird’s eye view of your sex life or your and Saturday-night T-shirts. Search for Wood parenting skills — or, worst of all, your decor. Wood online for all of the above: it’s a go-to for In my case, I wonder if I haven’t taken this a bit well-dressed lads and the spring drop is just in. far. Ever since I moved into my flat two years ago, I’ve become disconcertingly dependent on the people across the hall. Gerry and Mary are, you may be able Super cool Snapper to guess, Irish. They are in their 70s and they look We’ve all seen that cool kid on the after me like the son they never had. Actually, they do street with his silver camera crossed over his chest and admired it. But what have a son, and he seems very nice. But I’m just three is it? More than likely it is Leica’s M10. metres away and worryingly available, which I This seriously good digital camera is suppose raises some questions about my own life. jam-packed with the latest technology yet looks beautifully retro. £6,000, I knew things were getting going on our first New camera body only (leicastore-uk.co.uk) Year’s Eve as neighbours, when I popped over for a drink — they poured me a tumbler full of whiskey, added a warm can of Coke, and the rest is a blur. I felt we’d crossed a new threshold when Mary added me on by richard gray Facebook. But we really crossed a line when, one MeN’s sTYLe Saturday night at midnight, I got a knock on my door. It was Gerry. Mary was away in Ireland and would I What to buy now come over for a drink? Actually, it was more of an order. He sat me down in the kitchenette and placed a bottle of white wine in front of me: ‘That’s for you.’ He Shop waTch had a Bag for Life filled with tinnies for himself, It’s been the first stop for fans of because apparently ‘it keeps them cooler’. quality vintage menswear for years. If you’re around Seven Dials, pop in to see the boys at “I think Gerry also told me he’d The Vintage Showroom. The hand-picked, super-rare pulled Barbara Windsor once” vintage jeans and American college sweats are exceptional. Over the next four hours we discussed everything 14 Earlham Street, WC2 from life to love to Brexit; we smoked a lot (I don’t (thevintageshowroom.com) smoke) and Gerry asked me if I believed in God. The answer, garbled and full of non sequiturs, was probably my clearest-ever take. I think he also told me he’d pulled Barbara Windsor once, but I’d need to check. It was only the next day that I remembered he was recovering from a triple heart bypass. Sneaker Snob Since then, Gerry has fixed my front door; he’s also Upgrade your trainers with the fixed my loo. Mary has given me plants. They are Japanese running brand Hoka.

lamy We like the Gaviota 2, with a strong genuinely lovely. But what do I give them in return? I a upper made from light mesh can’t drive and I can’t do DIY, and I certainly can’t do and a really comfy and CPR. Never have I felt more like a useless millennial. bouncy sole — it’s the professional’s choice. hoka Gaviota Getting trashed in my apartment block with some And they’re really cool- 2 trainers, £130 retirees is possibly not the best way to expand my (hokaoneone.eu)

NatashaPszenicki; looking down the pub. horizons. But it really does save on the Ubers.

25.01.19 es magazine 23

Hoarder! HOARDER! t’s the debate dividing London — no, not Brexit, but Tidying Up with Marie Kondo on Netflix. Half of us are instagramming pictures of neatly folded T-shirts and eulogising the Japanese decluttering guru for changing I our lives. The rest are decrying her suggestion that we chuck out our books, with one tweeter imagining a future world in which Kondo condemns a man to death because he ‘does not spark joy’. Passions run high. Katherine Ormerod, founder of the Work Work Work platform, says that ‘everything is calm and serene’ since she Kondo-ed her crowded flat. ‘I’m sure Kondo’s current popularity owes something to the time-honoured tradition of people tidy- ing during a crisis,’ says FT fashion editor Jo Ellison. ‘In a world of total political chaos the benign pleasure of tidying up one’s sock drawer has a kind of therapeutic appeal.’ Kondo herself says: ‘It’s a great thing that there’s a passionate debate between people who are for and against letting go of things because it allows us to learn more about ourselves.’ Below, a minimalist and a maximalist put their cases, pro- and con-Kondo.

illustrations BY joe mclaren

No Kondon’t! says self-confessed Yes Kondo! says joyful minimalist, hoarder, Philippa Perry Pip McCormac Marie Kondo is a bundle of joy because Recent history has proved the seductive she only has in her life things that bring power in the promise of taking back con- her joy. Joy and gratitude. She likes to trol. Which, despite the lukewarm kneel in a house before a tidy-up and reviews of her new Netflix show,Tidying thank the house, or bless it (I’m not sure Up with Marie Kondo, is just what the which: I was watching her on Netflix and titular titan of tidying wants for us all. looked away for a second and missed the subtitle). There Kondo, the Japanese organising consultant, a harmless is only one way to fold a T-shirt, apparently, and that’s in housekeeper who has sold six million books detailing how a little square so it looks like a book. Talking of books, she to fold your pants correctly, is here to help you take back has written four. All about tidying up. Four books about control only — but joyfully — of your life. She is a tidying up, and she’s about decluttering? I’m being sar- modern-day Mary Poppins, appearing when we need her castic, which is unforgiveable because I think Marie most, when our very beings are at capacity, overflowing seems kind and I think if you were to declutter, store your with impulse Asos bumbags and unidentified equipage T-shirts like books and only have things in your home that found in the under-£2 bit of Ikea. She is here to instate

25.01.19 es magazine 25 brought you joy, you certainly wouldn’t feel any worse order where there is none, to help us glide as gracefully than you did when you started. I really think she is on to as she always does into our futures, jumble-free. something with her philosophy — don’t look for things to And yet she has attracted opprobrium. The criticisms throw out, look for things to keep. Things that bring you are as varied as the singular socks that reside in a still un- joy. The trouble is, when you are depressed, nothing much Kondoed drawer. From how she’s encouraging us to add at all brings you joy, so you would throw out the sofa, the to landfills (one couple on her show found 150 bin bags bed, the kitchen chairs, your partner, the children and worth of crap in their cupboards that didn’t spark enough have nowhere to sit and no one to blame. joy to warrant keeping), to how she ought to tell people to But why are we addicted to shopping and gathering buy less stuff to start with. And stuff in the first place? Shouldn’t we focus on why we “She is a modern- then dissenters took umbrage at have so many T-shirts? Why we find ourselves buying day Mary Poppins, her suggestion that books can be more and more stuff online in the middle of the night, thrown away because, they rather than wondering which would give us joy if we were appearing when we argue, literature is sacred and to fold them to look like books? need her most, when should be treasured above all If you never confront your mess, never tidy up, it could our very beings are else, implying they still own and be a metaphor for avoiding more than the tidying. It overflowing with enjoy their GCSE geography might be indicative of you not facing up to your problems textbooks and the half-read copy in general. But the same could be said for obsessive tidy- impulse Asos buys” of Fifty Shades from 2012. ing. If you spend 45 minutes on achieving symmetry in I interviewed Kondo on your sock drawer, I might guess that tidying is also a way stage, via an interpreter, in front of a packed auditorium of avoiding your more painful issues. Rather than make in London three years ago. I heard 300 astonished gasps your T-shirts look like books, which is a tad obsessive, or of delight when a T-shirt Kondo had folded was able to living in complete mess, there is a middle way. A way in stand up by itself. Her message, of course, is almost which you are neither too rule-bound nor too chaotic and embarrassingly simple: audit your stuff, keep only what have an ordinary relationship with your environment. you like and/or is genuinely useful, then be neater with This is not unlike the relationships we have with food. If the bits that remain. But her delivery, even in another we eat too much or not enough it is usually indicative of language, is more inspiring than an instaquote written a more buried problem and sorting out the food habit is in Blingtastic Script. In person, she radiates an unquan- much easier once you’ve addressed the main issue, what- tifiable energy, a light you can feel rather than see, like ever it may be. Hint: it’ll be something in your ‘youth or she has a permanent cartoon bulb above her head emit- childhood’. Yes, that quote ting a megawatt beam and the promise of salvation from comes from The Sound of Music. “Rather than make merely having a good sort-out. And no, I am not throwing that The funny thing is — it works. Methodically going video out because it brings me your T-shirts look through my home in the order she decrees, taking bags joy. And no, I do not have a video like books, which is to the charity shop and sending others down the chute, I player that works any more. I a tad obsessive, or felt like I had agency over my surroundings and, implic- have two that don’t work. Maybe living in complete itly, over my life. A home filled with only things you actu- one day I’ll amalgamate them ally like is a shot of serotonin for the soul. I still have into one video player that does mess, there is a nearly 200 books, each one sparking joy, but, thanks to work. In the meantime, they are middle way” her, I felt able to get rid of the ones taking up needless bringing me joy. Useless stuff space. And yes, in an ideal world we would not be adding sometimes does cheer me up. Even too much stuff can to landfill — but this isn’t an ideal world, which is why we sometimes do that. If I visit an ultra-minimalist flat it need Kondo. I’ve bought no new white T-shirts since her can feel too sterile for me. audit showed me how many I own, which means I’ll ulti- Someone will probably start a Joy of Stuff Craze. Oh, mately be sending fewer to fester in the future. So they already have. I think it’s called capitalism. Marie embrace the genuine sense of freedom that comes from Kondo is on the side of good, I know she is, I just don’t knowing your cupboards are uncluttered. Allow her light want to face up to whatever it is that two defunct video to bathe you, to cleanse you of your storage sins. You’ll players are saving me from. find that your life, itself, can spark joy.

25.01.19 es magazine 27 Our favourite BOY He’s currently co-starring in the awards juggernaut The Favourite but Nicolas Hoult’s own lifelong career is well worth shouting about in its own right. He talks to Frankie McCoy about fatherhood, being in touch with his feminine side and why acting opposite your ex — yes, that ex — is no big deal

PhotograPhS BY Luc coiffait StYlED BY Rose foRde artS & EntErtainmEnt DirEctor dipaL achaRya

icholas Hoult is explaining, rapidly, why he is such a fast talker these days. The 29-year-old actor has spent most of his life on a treadmill of filming, living out of a suitcase on the sets of films as var- ied as the X-Men franchise and Tom Ford’s A Single Man; via Mad Max: Fury Road and, of course, About a Boy, his breakthrough movie opposite Hugh Grant, shot when he was 11. One year, two years, nearly three decades slipped by. But nine months ago N Hoult and his model girlfriend, Bryana Holly, became parents. ‘And hav- ing a baby puts you in this place where you go, oh, okay, this human is going to change a lot,’ he says, quickly, cobalt blue eyes glinting. ‘It makes you value time differently, which is why I talk very quickly in interviews now, because I need to get home to them.’ The choice of pronoun is delib- erate: Hoult is keeping the child’s gender secret, at least for now. ‘Someone will find out soon enough and that’s fine, no big deal,’ he says, ‘but for now it’s my own precious little thing and I’m keeping it.’ Not that Hoult is rude. He has just spent five hours in a windowless photo studio after a morning full of press commitments but he’s still charming the socks off everyone, from the photographer, who asks for a selfie, to the fashion assistant. Soft spoken and strikingly tall at 6ft 3in, Hoult, as she raves in whispers, is ‘just so nice’. Here’s the thing: Hoult is very nice, and refreshingly balanced and self-

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30 es magazine 25.01.19 possessed with it. That means he’s someone who therefore doesn’t much care for the whole publicity circus that is an ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA polo top, adjunct to his job. Towards the end of the interview he £950; long sleeve shrugs when I ask him whether he has anything he’s par- top, £860 (zegna. co.uk). DUNHILL ticularly keen to say, what he’d want the headline on this trousers, £295 piece to read. ‘You’re gonna have your own perception of (dunhill.com). BALLY trainers, £340 (020 it and do your own thing, do you know what I mean? Write 7499 0057). Socks, what you like. I don’t feel like there’s any great message stylist’s own that I need to put out there.’ He’ll happily talk about his work, albeit quickly. Specifically, about the brilliant, bonkers Restoration romp The Favourite, a film that has clocked up rave reviews this month and is a shoo-in for Oscar glory. Hoult plays the scheming, preposterous Robert Harley, leader of the Tory party, in a series of ever more extravagant beauty spots and wigs, which posed a serious fire hazard on the candlelit set. The combination of brilliant actors (the three leads, Olivia Colman, Rachel Weisz and Emma Stone, are ‘just incredible to watch’), screenwriter Tony McNamara’s dialogue and maverick director Yorgos Lanthimos makes for a fantastically fun, entirely unique and frankly mad film. Or, as Hoult says winking, ‘a really highbrow Horrible Histories’. ‘I’ve never read a period drama that was fun,’ he says. ‘They can be a bit of a slog. Sometimes there are incredi- ble stories and incredible people but the dialogue can be really dry.’ But ‘pretty much every line I get to say here is a dream. So that’s brilliant.’ From the sounds of it, Lanthimos, ‘a great examiner of human behaviour’, just let “Idon’twantpeopletowalkintoafilmthinking,oh,Iknow Hoult et al loose to do whatever they wanted. His whathe’sgoingtodo.That’sboringformeandboringforthem” directing style is ‘bizarre, unconventional. I said in the audition, “What’s this char- person you were doing the scene with and they were acter like, do you think?” And he said, “I don’t know, dancing, and you had to copy their dance but not let it we’ll see.” And we never spoke about the character again.’ affect how you talk. Then we’d all get in line and walk in Hoult shortly found himself throwing oranges at a naked sync back and forth and say the scenes as quickly as pos- man in a room decorated with irreplaceable, priceless sible, but after each line you’d have to say “what what”. tapestries. ‘They were like, “Don’t miss the board because And you’d do the whole scene like that. And he’d just that tapestry’s 800 years old.”’ Two weeks watch for two weeks, no input or direction apart from were spent simply playing games: what the game was.’ ‘We’d have to say our lines, but The bewigged and belligerent Harley is, undeniably, someone was stood behind the unlike any role Hoult has taken on before. But typecast- ing is ‘what I’ve been really trying to avoid, it’s deliber- ate’. In the past decade, he’s played a superhero, a soldier, a serial killer and JD Salinger, as well as a zombie, a car- toon rabbit, a suicidal slave in a future dystopia and a drug dealer. ‘I don’t want people to walk into a film thinking, oh, he’s in that so I know what he’s going to do. Hoult with Olivia Colman at this year’s Golden That’s boring for me and boring for them,’ he shrugs. Globes; right, almost Hoult grew up in Wokingham in Berkshire, one of unrecognisable in The Favourite four, and started acting at the age of three after being talent-spotted in the audience of a play in which his brother was performing. The director was impressed by his ability to concentrate. Roles in TV dramas such as Silent Witness and The Bill fol- lowed, and not a year has passed since 1996 that Hoult has not appeared on our screens. Which is pretty mad. ‘People think I’m older than I am. I’m not that old yet! I’ve just been kicking around Getty;Capital Pictures

25.01.19 es magazine 31 glossy; Hoult recalls being told of the American version of Skins that ‘they had trouble casting my character because the people they kept getting sent were too good looking. I was like, um, this is backhanded.’ After Skins, Hollywood came calling. Hoult was cast in 2011’s X-Men: First Class and was immediately cata- pulted into the spotlight, less because of his portrayal of the fluffy blue mutant Beast, more because of his bur- geoning relationship with Jennifer Lawrence, whose star was about to explode with The Hunger Games. The pair met on set and dated for four years before splitting in 2014 in a flurry of tabloid headlines. I won’t ask him about Lawrence… ‘But?’ He raises his eyebrows. But, they are both starring in Dark Phoenix, the latest instalment of the X-Men series that comes out this summer. How does he get on with his ex on set? ‘It’s pretty similar to Skins, we’re a big family, we’ve been doing those movies since we were 20 years old. As much as the Skins crowd grew up together, the X-Men crowd really grew up together. It’s been a good eight, nine years making those movies. We’ve all got to get along, we’ve all got to have fun. The really beautiful thing about this last film is that [writer and director] Kim Berger has given me somewhere nice and new to experiment and go with the character. Which is cool.’ And coolly sidestepped. It’s difficult to pin down Hoult on his life in LA: he’ll talk theoretically about the downsides of his part-time home (‘it can be a tricky city, it “The level of love that comes with fatherhood outweighs can be a lonely city, it can have all the wrong things about it, so everything. It’s phenomenal. I’m loving it” you’ve got to find the right people and be very set’) without elabo- a long time.’ Even afterAbout a Boy shot him to child star- rating on how that has impacted him, relying instead on dom he was unsure that acting was what he wanted to do his steady, minimum one-film-a-year CV and the lack of for a living. He dropped out of Sylvia Young Theatre tabloid headlines to speak for itself. School at the age of 14 in favour of a normal education at LA is also where he met Holly, and where their child Ranelagh School in Wokingham, where the school let him was born. Fatherhood is the way to get Hoult’s guard come and go to film with Nicolas Cage inThe Weather Man down, at least a little. He beams, those blue eyes sparkle. and in Richard E Grant’s Wah-Wah. Then, in sixth form, ‘The levels of tiredness are extreme. No one warns you Skins happened. Hoult played the ice cold, conniving anti- about it! But the level of love that comes with it outweighs hero Tony Stonem in the cult, sexed-up, drugged-up everything. It’s phenomenal. I’m loving it. And it evolves Channel 4 teen drama that was also an astonishing spring- all the time. They change so much, every day is different. board for British millennial talent. Daniel Kaluuya, Kaya It fills you up as a human completely.’ Scodelario, Dev Patel and Jack O’Connell were just some The next year, then, will see him continue to quietly of the teenagers whose careers would later go stellar. clock up the roles as Peter III in HBO’s Catherine the ‘They had a real eye for spotting talent,’ Hoult nods. Great and as JRR Tolkien in a biopic of the author while ‘But yeah, we had the best time making that. We were getting to grips with ‘doing’ the whole dad thing. kids — 16, 17. We’d go out and turn up a little more tired ‘Fatherhood is the main thing. Yeah. That. I’m going to than we should do for work.’ Lifetime friendships were do a hell of a lot of that.’ Hoult’s own father, an airline formed: Hoult still boxes with Kaluuya (Posh Kenneth in pilot, was away a lot when he was younger and with his the series) and a week after our interview, Scodelario brother away at school, Hoult grew up in a mostly female (Hoult’s on-screen sister Effy) posted an Instagram snap household. So is he in touch with his feminine side? ‘I of the original Skins gang — Hoult, Kaluuya, Joe Dempsie, hope so,’ he says. ‘What does that mean? Hopefully being Hannah Murray — at a wedding dinner for fellow actors in touch with your feminine side makes you more under- Aisling Loftus and Jacob Anderson. ‘Nobody expected it standing of what it’s like to be female. I think we could to take off,’ he says. ‘Maybe the fact that we weren’t all all try and have a little more empathy now and then.’ pent up and taking it seriously — there was a freedom and For someone without a message, that seems like a a fun that captured what it was about that made it differ- pretty great one to put out there. ent from the American teen shows that had come before ‘The Favourite’ is in cinemas now; ‘X-Men: Dark Phoenix’ it about young people that were a bit stilted.’ And a bit will be released in June

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25.01.19 es magazine 33

beauty

by rose beer

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PHOtOGRaPH by adam GOOdisOn styLed by LiLy wORcesteR 25.01.19 es magazine 35

beauty You beauty! ON THE SOAPBOX Facialist, skincare specialist and expert in the healing arts, Su-man HSu champions the traditional Chinese practices of mindfulness in motion

hile exercise undeniably clears the mind and boosts W our mood, it doesn’t necessarily nourish the holistic self. In Western medicine, people focus mostly on the physiological and emotional benefits of activities, whereas traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) focuses on your ‘chi’ — the energy and life-force that links emotional, physical, intellectual and spiritual health. TCM says that when our chi is blocked, wellbeing is undermined. Overly vigorous physical activity is not recommended in TCM because it can deplete our chi, leaving us exhausted or ill. The trick is to exercise in a balanced manner instead. Enter qigong, a branch of TCM that cultivates your chi through a series of ‘forms’ — body postures, movements, breathing and meditation. Through repetition, chi is generated. T’ai chi is a more dynamic version of qigong that takes this principle a step further, expressing the ability to o there I was, on the sofa, full of strep throat, cultivate, circulate and harmonize chi with banging the antibiotics — which came with a flowing movements. By incorporating movements side order of headache. But, however rough and taken from either practice into a daily routine, we can plague-y I feel, I loathe the idea of a sick house; become more centred, serene and healthy, making a S a place where all is musty and soupy and you feel as lasting difference to the enjoyment of life. It’s literally though you have to wade through the murk. mindfulness in motion. Annabel So I was slightly crying (strep throat hurts, man), I practise at the Chinese Community Centre near but I was also in a clean nightie, with clean hair, a clean Leicester Square, but there are many other places in Rivkin clears quilt and a clean hot water bottle cover, miserably the capital that provide both practices. (su-man.com) the air watching wellness being pumped into the air by my new Neal’s Yard Maya Diffuser (£60), a symphony of soft light and aromatherapeutic virtue. Now, I would not necessarily use this in a seductive Headspace setting — it has certainly got that five rhythms dance, tie-dye worthiness to it, which some people would find alluring, just not those I tend to have dealings with. But, if you want to whoosh some essential oils around the room — and possibly do yourself a service — it’s a marvel. You see, this is a plug-in situation, so there are no naked flames, no heat (ergo no degradation of the oils), no smoke, no schmutz. Rather than steam, it produces an aromatherapy-charged mist, in this case, Neal’s Yard Organic Defence Blend (£13.50), which harnesses uplifting lemongrass, purifying niaouli and protective thyme, and just gives the overall impression of being clean, cheering and calming. And it helped the headache. There are Stress and Vitality and Sleep blends, and I surprise myself when I tell you Celery juice is having a moment, with many claiming it is a cure for an array of ailments. that I quite fancy a ‘wardrobe’ of the lot! I’m not all However, juicing 15 stalks daily might not be the best way to send health levels skyrocketing. ‘Juicing strips away the beneficial fibre that boosts gut health,’ says Harley that woo-woo but this just feels like a lovely thing to

NatashaPszenicki;Alamy;Getty Street nutritionist Rhiannon Lambert. So we suggest making celery your No 1 crudité. have in your arsenal. (nealsyardremedies.com)

25.01.19 es magazine 37

MY BODY’S saying LET’S GO… Everyone’s talking about intuitive eating: ignoring diets and listening to your body. But can this really be a viable way to a healthier lifestyle? Committed comfort eater Marisa Bate gives it a try

illustrations BY michelle thompson

f, like me, you spend your working life us with terrible food habits but also feeling response and relationship to food. For the largely seated at a desk, then there is miserable and inadequate. See me, above. past 20 years, he has studied why some peo- every chance that your daily routine, This is what nutritionist Laura Thomas ple become obese and others don’t, and says like mine, goes something like this. calls ‘disordered eating’ in Just Eat it: How a one-size-fits-all approach won’t work. We Coffee with a side order of good inten- Intuitive Eating Can Help You Get Your S*** have to understand our own bodies — easier I tions for breakfast, half an M&S sandwich Together Around Food. Her widely lauded said than done considering Yeo didn’t learn for lunch, a plate of pasta the size of a small book is one of the bibles of the new move- he was lactose intolerant until he was 41. ‘It island in the evening (auxiliary garlic ment, along with How to Feel the Fear and Eat reflects the complexity of the food environ- bread not optional). The starve-pangs-binge- it Anyway by Eve Simmons and Laura ment we’re in, if even I didn’t realise.’ repeat cycle has been the scourge of office Dennison (journalists and co-founders of the Understanding our own bodies is funda- workers’ ‘new year, new you’ targets since Not Plant Based blog); Conquering Fat Logic mental to the intuitive eating method, a records began, neutralising those ardently by Nadja Hermann; and Gene Eating: the movement for which Thomas, thanks to her adhered-to fitness regimes and making us Science of Obesity and the Truth About Diets 67k Instagram followers, has become the feel not great about ourselves at all. by Dr Giles Yeo. These books share a com- poster girl. (It also helps that she speaks So it would seem to be good news that the mon message: if there’s a rule, ditch it. fluent millennial-ese: ‘Guys! I mean, what hottest, most talked about new dieting trend Denying, detoxing, restricting, counting, the actual f***?’) for 2019 is not the eat-nothing-for-five days- cutting out, eating clean, eating alkaline or Intuitive eating was developed in the a-week diet, nor the eat-nothing-for-23- a reductionist single-nutrient focus has put 1990s by US dieticians Evelyn Tribole and hours-a-day diet, nor the eat-nothing-ever us on a treadmill of fads that ultimately fail. Elyse Resch, with whom Thomas trained, diet. No, the hottest, most talked about new ‘When I was going around publishers trying and requires becoming reacquainted with diet for 2019 is the anti-diet. As we progress to sell the book, they all said, “Where’s the the satiety and hunger cues our body through the year a wave of nutritionists, aca- diet plan?”’ says Yeo. ‘I had to say, “There is naturally gives us (via mood, sleep and demics and journalists are on a mission no plan, that’s the point!”’ energy levels), currently lost to the din of to override our obsessive, dysfunctional, Instead, Yeo tells me, because of diets. So you eat what you want, when misinformed relationship with food, created our genetic underpinnings, as well as our you want? Not quite. ‘You know if you eat by a toxic diet culture, which not only leaves environments, we will all have a different doughnuts all day, you’re not going to feel

25.01.19 es magazine 39 suddenly it’s about self-improvement and confidence. Like #strongnotskinny. On the surface it sounds empowering but what is under the surface? In order to feel good about yourself you need to buy this product or look a certain way? We have to stay vigi- lant; we have to stay on our toes.’ Yeo, who investigated the clean eating phenomenon, including a head to head with Deliciously Ella for a BBC Horizon documen- tary in 2017, has similar concerns. ‘By all means sell a vegan cookbook, but don’t call it an alkaline cookbook. You have a right to pay your mortgage, but don’t sell bulls***.’ Talking to food experts of the anti-diet movement is a bit like being in a conversation in a Sally Rooney novel. There’s a distinct sentiment that a horrible mess has been made, the damage has been done and happi- ness might never be obtainable. ‘I worry for the world,’ says Anthony Warner, author of great,’ says Thomas, but she adds the lack of ‘Tonight Matthew, I’m going to be… the best The Truth About Fat, with a hint of a laugh. restriction has resulted in her clients eating possible version of myself!’ In September ‘We have anti-diet movements and that’s better, with greater freedom and headspace 2018, even Weight Watchers rebranded as great, but there will be people exploiting around food. WW with a focus on… yep, wellness. them, suggesting they are not doing anti-diet ‘Intuitive eating is pro-health choice,’ she It’s this transformation that the anti-diet well enough, making them feel inadequate.’ says. ‘It’s about taking what we know about movement is raging against, lamenting that Daniela Walker, a food and drinks trend nutrition, but teaching you to process that just because wellness might look like forecaster, told me that she, too, is conscious in a way that is not all-or-nothing. Take Gwyneth Paltrow in tree pose on a Malibu of the anti-diet movement being the next those messages about health, but don’t apply beach, it’s still the same damaging food bandwagon. ‘Intuitive eating could have the them in such a rigid way. Eat fruit and obsession. ‘“It’s for my health” is a new way hallmarks of a passing fad, because it might vegetables, and what we know is a good of legitimising semi-starvation,’ Thomas get used as a mask for diet culture and then foundation for a healthy diet, but don’t says. She adds: ‘In the same period that see a backlash, in the way that clean eating obsess about every calorie.’ So there’s no “clean eating” and wellness culture were at did.’ But, she says, ‘We have seen a long-term diet, no rules. This process of listening to their peak in the UK (2010-2016), hospital trajectory towards people caring more about hunger levels, being mindful, thinking admissions from eating disorders doubled.’ their health, and understanding that the about how food makes you feel (not how you According to Thomas, ‘Wellness culture food they eat is intimately connected to how look) is called attunement. is just diet culture, it’s a shapeshifter and they feel. There’s longevity there, in the Thomas wants you to throw away your sense that we are seeing more and more Fitbit, delete your apps and listen to your connections made between things like gut inner fuel gauge (‘0 = hangry’, ‘5 = we cool’, HOW TO JUST EAT IT health and mental health.’ ‘10 = stuffed’). If we learn to read this gauge, And we’re already starting to see how the 1. The first rule is: there are no and address our emotions around food with focus on individualised diets is being taken rules. Avoid anything rigid or a sense of self-compassion, Thomas believes, overly prescriptive. to profitable extremes. ‘Recently,’ Warner we’ll take away the angst and self-flagellation says, ‘I was offered microbiome, blood and that comes with impossible food fads. 2. Reconnect with your body: DNA tests in order to produce a tailored diet Thomas’s approach seems sensible: listen to practise mindful eating, keep a that suits me. Aside from a recipe for creating your body, don’t get caught up in problematic journal to note how different foods food anxiety, is nobody going to share food diets. The problem, she acknowledges, is have made you feel — how is your any more? Are we going to eat every meal overcoming a lifetime of toxic messaging mood? Energy levels? Sleep? alone? If you look at the places in the world from diet culture through everything from where people have the best relationship with the media to our mothers. 3. There’s no such thing as a bad food and live long, healthy lives — blue zones food: think about the overall picture And although, thanks to the body positiv- of what you’re eating and don’t get like Sardinia, a few Greek islands, parts of ity movement, ‘diet’ has become a dirty word, hung up on details or individual California — they don’t diet and food is very it hasn’t actually gone anywhere. Instead, nutrients. Take food off pedestals. important in sharing and community.’ according to the anti-diet brigade, it’s The (genuine) anti-diet movement has undergone a major rebrand. If diet culture 4. Be careful who you follow on got its work cut out, while technology and appeared on Stars in Their Eyes, it would walk social media: avoid those who social media find ever new ways to fetishise on as 1990s-era Kate Moss, living off provoke self-doubt or unworthiness. food obsession. cigarettes and #thinspo maxims, before ‘If we could all just relax a bit about the disappearing in a cloud of smoke and slink- 5. Remember the joy of food: family, food we eat,’ sighs Warner, ‘and just enjoy ing out as Wellness: drenched in Californian friends and pleasure. eating and not talk about it too much, our Zen, self-love and a rock-hard stomach. lives would be a lot better.’

40 es magazine 25.01.19

FEAST JIMI EATS WORLD Jimi Famurewa says less would be more at Mare Street Market’s cluttered Dining Room

“Each spark of imagination is tempered by either unfortunate sloppiness or needless maximalism — or both”

section, two plump, carefully grilled scallops came beneath a crispy sheaf of cavolo nero and were served in the shell, splashing in a bisque-like miso butter sauce that had chilli heat and proper AMBIENCE slurpable decadence.

FOOD Of the shared starters, crab tartare — luscious hunks of, I thought, just-cooked crustacean, fennel shavings and a thin moat of tarragon oil — was decent enough. BBQ short rib, plopped on a semi circle of hash brown and a fried duck egg, are Street Market is, it has to be said, was li ed by a terri c prune and date brown a lot. A capacious, neon-bathed, um, sauce, balancing fruit and spice on a knife-edge. ‘food, drink and design consortium’ Mains solidi ed the fact it was going to be one with an obliging array of di erent of those meals in which each spark of imagination Mways in which to be fed (Brunch! Sunday roast! is tempered by either unfortunate sloppiness or Pizza!) and a lot of other E attractions, seemingly needless maximalism — or both. Cod came with a pulled out of a bucket of ideas marked ‘Things golden-crisped skin, appealingly charred spring Millennials Apparently Quite Like’. onions and a great, pu ed-up nori cracker but There is a fancy record store and a high-grade was hopelessly overcooked. Duck breast had a  orist, deli, co ee shop and miniature liquor faint pinkness and a decent, accompanying brick store. There is even a little studio speci cally of blackened Parmesan polenta improving a marketed as a place to create podcasts. And now, tomato-less, alleged wild mushroom ragu. the  nal piece of this grand, multi-use jigsaw is THE DINING ROOM AT Yielding,  avoursome braised ox cheek, with here in the form of The Dining Room; a fancier MARE STREET MARKET moreish patties of bread dumpling, absolutely did 117 Mare Street, E8 (020 3745 2606; corralled area that serves a slender, grown-up marestreetmarket.com) not need half a gherkin gracelessly lobbed on top dinner menu from Wednesday to Saturday. Its of it. I was the only one to tackle pudding — vaguely New British dishes are the creative lumpen Russian chocolate cheesecake with progeny of chef Dom Moldenhauer, a plainly wincingly tart poached rhubarb. The less said gi ed cook who, nonetheless, presides over a about it, the better. kitchen that is prone to more than a touch And yet, I am inclined to cut them a little of muddled overeagerness. slack. It was only the second week back a er The Dining Room is an undeniably a head- 1 Scallop £4 Christmas, the bill (even with a mid-list bottle of

turning space. On a chilly Wednesday night, two 1 Pastrami sandwich £4 he y Italian red) didn’t climb to a brazen height friends and I passed from the lively main area and any kitchen that can produce spine- into a kind of darkened, indoor scrapyard, 1 Crab tartare £8 sti ening forkfuls like those scallops and that starved of customers but swarmed with vintage 1 Short rib hash brown £7.50 short rib, blotted in lots of unholy, supercharged

chandeliers and other Insta-ready curios (stone 1 Duck £16 HP, deserves serious credit. There is also, statues, mirrors, an actual taxidermy gira e) commendably, an interesting-looking veggie worth thousands of pounds and available for 1 Cod £15 and vegan menu. purchase through local dealer Pure White Lines. 1 Ox cheek £15 The Dining Room sates a modern demand for a

From the Snack section, ‘pastrami sandwich’ was 1 Chocolate cheesecake £6 little of everything and o ers the chance to feast a Reubenised crostini bearing a thick slab of amid hoarded antiques . But in its food, if not the beef and a teetering pile of gutsy, possibly 1 Cirelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo £35 decor, it would bene t greatly from an old-

David Yeo; Issy Crocker;Issyillustration Jonathan Machas CalugiYeo; by @ David horseradish-laced sauerkraut. From the same TOTAL £110.50 fashioned bit of decluttering.

25.01.19 ES MAGAZINE 43 feast tart london Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison warm up winter evenings with a rich and nourishing curry

Hey broth-er: Lucy shows off a simmering vat of revitalising ramen

Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison

e debated long and hard about what we should put on the menu for our first event at Wild By Tart, our new space in Belgravia. W It was a stand-up affair, with market stalls for shopping, so we wanted to keep it casual, comforting and delicious, of course. We decided on three interactive bowl food stations: slow- cooked beef stew with pecans and prunes, a spiced squid stew with saffron aioli and a spicy peanut curry with aubergine and rice. The latter was a particular hit, so we thought we’d get it in this column as soon as possible. Healthy curries provide a hearty dose of comfort on cold January nights, and at this time Serves 4 Spicy peanut curry with aubergineS of year we find ourselves making one most weeks. For the curry paste Put all the curry paste ingredients into a food Although the definition of ‘curry’ is open-ended, 2 red peppers from a jar processor and blitz to a smooth paste, adding a 5 garlic cloves encompassing all sorts of cuisines and cooking Thumb-sized knob of ginger little water if necessary. Stir together the yoghurt styles, it’s generally understood to mean a dish of 2 stalks of lemongrass, mixture in a bowl and set to one side. ends chopped off and outer veg, meat or fish cooked in a spiced sauce — and layer removed Heat the groundnut oil in a large frying pan it’s a style of food we love to make and share with 3 shallots over a high heat and fry the aubergine in 4 lime leaves others. This recipe is rich and filling, with a smoky Bunch of coriander stalks batches until golden and crisp all over. Set to spice flavour and a satisfying nutty crunch that 5 red chillies, deseeded one side. In the same pan, fry the cumin seeds 2 tsp smoked paprika works wonderfully with the zingy lime yoghurt. 1 tsp ground cumin for a minute or two. We have got into the habit of making big 2 tsp ground coriander Heat the coconut oil in a large pot and add the batches of the curry paste and freezing it in For the spiced yoghurt curry paste. Stir constantly, making sure it doesn’t individual portions in an ice cube tray. Ideal for 4 tbsp yoghurt catch. If it starts to look dry, add a little water. 2 limes, zest and juice dark weekday evenings when you’ve just got 1 tbsp finely chopped shallot Cook until fragrant, then add the stock, coconut home from work and need some exotic spice to 1 tsp ground cumin milk and tamarind paste. Simmer for 5 minutes warm the soul. For the curry sauce before adding the aubergine and honey. Simmer 2 tbsp groundnut oil for another 15 minutes, then stir in the fish sauce 2 aubergines, cut into 2in chunks 2 tsp cumin seeds and peanut butter. Cook for another minute or 1 tbsp coconut oil two then squeeze in the lime juice and taste. 250ml vegetable stock 1 tin of coconut milk Serve with steamed rice, a dollop of the 1 tbsp tamarind paste yoghurt and garnish with fresh coriander, chilli 1 tbsp honey 2 tbsp fish sauce and some toasted chopped peanuts. 1 tbsp of crunchy peanut butter Juice of 1 lime

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HOMEWORK Tony Chambers on the rebirth of a storied capital thoroughfare plus Moroccan mats, Brazilian-inspired beach wear and an exhibition that brings swinging London to life

King of King’s THE cRafT Moroccan-born, London-based he King’s Road, according to most friends I’ve Berber textile expert Souad spoken to, is not high on their list of London Larusi is loved by the likes of destinations. Despite being an extremely Tom Ford and Margaret Howell pleasant high street — clean, spacious and awash and has a new project on the way for which she’s upcycled scrap T with the kind of well-heeled shoppers most retailers would materials personally sourced in die for — something is missing. It lacks surprise. It’s too Morocco. The result is a series of comfortable, too safe and subsequently it’s somewhat zindekhs, striking mats created using a single needle by Berber bland. And in today’s world, where disruption is desirable, women in the Atlas Mountains. safety and comfort just doesn’t cut it. Larusi says the zindekhs are ‘like Thankfully, insider sources tell me a strategy is in place modern works of art, reminiscent to rejuvenate the King’s Road’s cultural relevance, introduce of Kandinsky, Klee and De Staël’. Waste Knot: The Art of surprises and bring back its glory days. And what glory days the Zindekh, 1-14 Feb, 109 they were. For three decades, from the 1960s to the 1980s, Bartholomew Road (larusi.com) this was the heart of London’s fashion, art, design and music st collection scene and the hangout and breeding ground for a succession ate ’s l nd THE fasHiOn of pop-culture’s most memorable moments: mods, punks, ra b Frescobol Carioca has been making waves since e New Romantics and... the Sloane Ranger. h t 2013 with its graphic prints inspired by the l: o culture, architecture and landscapes of Rio The driver of this rejuvenation is Cadogan, the 300- b o c de Janeiro, where the brand was founded. year-old property developer (and one of the road’s main s e For its latest collection it takes a bird’s eye r

F landowners). Its chief executive, Hugh Seaborn, is forthright view of the beautiful creations by Brazilian

t

e in his vision: ‘We are looking at everything from the retail G modernist landscape architect Roberto mix, public realm, experiences, events and identity. Retail is Burle Marx. Whether you’ll be hanging out at Ipanema beach or Brockwell Lido come changing and the King’s Road must balance its iconic summer, the Paisagem collection, available heritage with an openness to creativity and innovation.’ from February, will be sure to get you noticed. (frescobolcarioca.com) “ A strategy is in place to bring back the glory days of the King’s Road” THE ExHibiTiOn The company is working with the London College of Opening at the Fashion and Textile Museum Fashion to understand what young people believe will be next month, Swinging London: A Lifestyle essential components of tomorrow’s high street and is Revolution explores the style, design and socioeconomic heft of the period from 1952 ‘exploring a huge number of ideas from next-gen retail to to 1977, when radical young architects, immersive experiences, community hubs, plant bubbles designers and artists began redefining the and pocket shops’. There’s already a shift in the brands concept of youth and challenging the established order. Furniture, lighting, going there, such as the indoor cycling company Peloton homewares, ephemera and, of course, and the sustainable British business The Cotton Story. The fashion and textiles will be on show, Duke of York Restaurant, opposite the Saatchi Gallery, is including early furniture by Terence opening soon, with a generous public roof terrace and Conran. 8 Feb to 2 Jun (ftmlondon.org) innovative design by London-based Nex Architecture. Due to open next year is the first Costes hotel outside THE TEcH Paris. There’s also a major new development under way This small all-in-one wireless music opposite Chelsea Town Hall, which will restore the historic system by KEF (a pioneer of the British hi-fi industry) is a big sonic Gaumont Theatre façade and include an art house cinema, boost for home entertainment. By rooftop café, new pub, residential, office and retail space. exploiting the advances in wireless There’s a desire to encourage more creative community technology and digital signal uses, too. The Fashion School, which opened recently at processing, the two-speaker LSX offers audiophile sound quality at a more 224A King’s Road, is supporting up-and-coming designers affordable price. And with industrial looking to counter the culture of fast fashion. And to tie all design by Hong Kong-based British this together, there will be a new brand identity launching in industrial designer Michael Young, the product looks as great as it sounds. April, coinciding with the opening of the V&A’s retrospective KEF LSX, £1,000 (uk.kef.com) on Mary Quant, the 1960s’ Queen of the King’s Road. Chris Floyd; Joe Santoro;Joe Floyd; SeventeenChris magazine

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Alamy; Getty way to shore. For sunbasking, pack a picnic and hit, scuba dive with schooling barracuda and, if Porto fishermenunload the day’s catch from wooden canoes,with a trip to crowd). Combine a stroll at busy church (about the only place you’ll see anything approaching a with peely-paint mint and pink façades of colonial buildings and a Teeny-tiny riverside capital TO VISIT WHERE beaches to lay eggs. Join local conservationists can arrange guides, which can arrange you needwill — trails rock towers. Trek through the wilderness (hotels are deserted and you may not see another soul as only people 6,000 live here) to bask in the shadow turtles laying and hatchlings whooshing their on moonlit strolls on escape Príncipe is a turtle mecca; from November to EDITED by by EDITED visit pretty you’re lucky, nurse sharks. Shore dives from The entire island is a Unesco reserve and scenery colossal, vine-draped colossal,trees and other-worldlyvine-draped Praia hawksbill and green) arrive on the sandy March four species (ridley, leatherback, rainforest withfilledgrey African parrots, is land-that-time-forgot sensational. Think r eal DI pal acharya pal b where eco-entrepreneur Bella Prina upcycles bottles Praia anana WH of Pico Pa b Praia Grande streets and a jubilant party vibe takes over. Carnival ( time your visit in February to coincide with abandoned church Jones vibes visit the overgrown ruins of into striking jewellery. For serious Indiana e are good for beginners. oi R , or for an adrenaline e Praia Santo TO D P a church in church António Santo ofthe above, sand; crescent asweep: Clean pristine left G a aio WH a ), when locals parade in the a bade ntónio Y TRI , a 700m peak. to spot a r , a sleepy village where T TO ibeira ibeira plantation house, is more low-key but just as stylish. at the restaurant. Nearby, mean ylang ylangand ocean-to-table Martinis food dense rainforest. There’s spa, aa bar dinky serving sandwiched between honey-coloured sands and interiors, deep stone bathtubs and four-poster beds) Praia latest openings are the places to seek out. pioneered sustainable tourism here, and his two Millionaire techpreneur Mark Shuttleworth has TO STAYWHERE p has a faded charm, ( see i zé left

. If you can, ) has luxe15 tents (with African-inspired r oça Sundy coast; left, pretty local houses local pretty left, coast; the lush rugged and Verdant pastures: isl Treasure heard of, says island you’ve probably never wonderful most wildest, ofWestcoast the is Africa, Príncipe, atiny dotoff the , a restored Sundy A nd Ianthe Butt £155; hotelrocasundy.com)£155; Roça Sundy (rooms from sundyprincipe.com) and (tents from £570 a night; was a guest at Sundy Praia (tapairportugal.com). She São Tomé, from £755 Príncipe, via Lisbon and fares from London to Portugal.Air Return Ianthe flewwith TAP G 25.01.19 25.01.19 e

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e E 49 my london maya jama as told to hamish macbain

Home is… Deep south-west London, with my boyfriend [Stormzy]. We’ve only been there about five months. I’ve always lived in the city — Ladbroke Grove, Queen’s Park, Fulham — so this is the furthest out I’ve ever lived. I prefer it, it’s so calm. And we’ve friends from Bristol there got a dog now, Enzo, so it’s nice and they couldn’t believe it to have places to walk. was real.

Favourite pub? If you could buy any London The Prince building, what would it be? (right) in The Shard (above). I’d turn it Fulham, into a massive entertainment which is right centre: production company on by my old one floor, then a spa, casino and house. From a rave on the top floor. the front it looks like it’s What are you up to at going to be a small, the moment? casual pub, but then it’s My Radio 1 show, loving that got this massive indoor garden I’m now doing Fridays and with flowers on the ceiling. Saturdays: proper little weekend DJ. I’ve just shot my Favourite hotel? second Pretty Little Thing The Curtain (below). It’s proper The DJ and presenter enjoys a drink at collection. And I’ve just snazzy, but it’s also got an arty The Prince in Fulham, dines at Sexy Fish become an ambassador for vibe and I love the decor. It as a treat and loves to party at The Box Savera, the domestic made me feel posh! violence charity. I’m starting to plan a wouldn’t want to be thrown in (food, below). But school tour, where I the Thames. Maybe in a park — that’s like a treat and other people with then they could put tree seeds for birthdays and the charity will go to schools in with me, so I could grow special occasions. and do some talks on our through a tree. I like that idea. experiences. What do you collect? Best thing a cabbie has ever Photos. Actual Who is your hero? said to you? physical photos. I’ve got Has to be my mum. She I told one of them the other loads from the past was a single mum, raised Where do you work out? day that I’m half Somali and year in a drawer. I’ve me and my brother, and Outdoors. I’m super lucky, he went: ‘Oh, there’s this just got a proper we came out all right. And because I’ve got a personal other half Somali girl camera with film, but then she went back to uni trainer, so mostly in my garden. that’s on telly sometimes, before that I used to get after having us while working But even before I had a trainer she’s called Maya.’ I those £2 disposable like a million jobs at once; being or a garden, it would be in the was like, ‘Maya Jama?’ cameras. a cleaner, working in food shops. parks. I find no one watches you and he goes, ‘Yeah’. Now she’s got a degree and a outside, whereas in the gym Then he didn’t believe Favourite club? really good job. So she’s my hero. everyone’s staring. it was me. The Box in Soho. It’s mental, What makes someone a Where would you like to Favourite but it’s the Londoner? be buried? restaurant? most fun. I Gift of the gab. And being a

I’d like to be cremated, but I Sexy Fish brought my dream chaser. Getty;PascoPhotography; Alamy;Carey;John Justine Trickett

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