ANT’S PRIVATE BUSH HOMES & GARONGA SAFARI CAMP & JACI’S SAFARI LODGE & MAKAKATANA BAY LODGE & MOTSWARI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE Ant’s Private Bush Homes W r r SOUTH AFRICA

outh Africa’s malaria-free Waterberg that overlook a heated swimming pool and a large has been the home of the Baber family lawn that spills into the bushveld where horses and since the 1800s. Ant and Tessa crossed paths in the wildlife graze together. This bush home is perfect

The Waterberg has inspired mid-1990s and their relaxed style of hospitality for a group of friends travelling together as it can be writers, poets and naturalistsS has made Ant’s Nest and Ant’s Hill two very special booked exclusively by one group, or alternatively it with its wide views. It is in destinations, for families, international horse- can be booked on a room-to-room basis. this area that Ant’s Private riders, honeymooners, romantic safaris, weddings, Ant’s Hill, a 20 minute drive away, has a row of Bush Homes are situated. Ant’s and even chart-topping pop stars. elegant and privately situated suites and living Hill (left) has commanding ‘This is a bush home, not a typical lodge,’ says areas, all of which have been built to follow the views over the bushveld that Tessa. ‘We aim to provide a fl exible safari with contours of a precipitous cliff with spectacular surrounds the lodge, where plenty of activities, keeping everyone entertained views of the Waterberg Mountains. The bathrooms sable and other game are from the youngest to the oldest, the fi ttest to the and verandas virtually melt into the bush – and a found. The lodge offers an most in need of rest… It’s the Ant’s way.’ 30-metre waterfall that cascades right beside the exceptional experience for The bush homes are situated on a privately lodge heightens the drama. families with children as well owned reserve which covers approximately 5000 The homes are fashioned largely from natural as a classic and romantic safari hectares. The game that occur there include rhino, stone, with arches and beams made of knotted for couples. buffalo, Livingstone eland, zebra, nyala and sable wild olive tree trunks, and they are decorated with as well as a wide variety of other species. There is a exquisitely carved old Indian chests, cabinets and range of activities on offer, from walks to big game day beds. Add copper taps, rugs, colourful kikoi viewing, and also horse-riding – but for many cushions and riding paraphernalia into the mix guests the real thrill of being here is to relax in and you have an idea of the original ‘Ant’s Style’. their own private bush home. There are two or three hosts at each of the Ant’s Nest was the family’s original home. It is lodges who are responsible for making sure situated in the folds of hills, with six sizable suites that the guests are well looked after. They are all

16 A NT’ S P RIVATE B USH H OMES 17 The large gardens and inviting swimming pool make Ant’s Nest a great place for families with children, while the candlelit boma dinners add to the romance of the African safari experience (right).

enthusiastic young people hand-picked for their At home in the love of wildlife, horses and hospitality. ‘Water’ Mountains ANT’S NEST The original home of ‘Most of our guests stay for a week or more,’ the Baber family has been beautifully says one of the hosts at Ant’s Hill. ‘We start with restored by Ant and Tessa and is handshakes and end with hugs and kisses. If they nt’s Nest and Ant’s Hill are part of an imaginative and nestled in the well-watered hills of the cry when they leave we know we have done our job.’ successful conservation initiative called the Waterberg Waterberg Mountains. Each of the A suites is as large as a small house, with The visitors’ book, fi lled with drawings and pictures Nature Conservancy. Together with Marakele National Park, a big bedroom, lounge and veranda for by guests, refl ects this sentiment. Welgevonden Game Reserve and other adjoining properties relaxing. The lodge has its own stables Guided walks, game drives, mountain biking and they create a wildlife playground of some 170 000 hectares, and guests can enjoy riding among massages are on offer, but without a doubt the which is home to all of the Big Five and is gaining increasing some of the big game found here, best way to get around the reserve is on horseback. recognition from UNESCO as a biosphere reserve. Ant and Tessa, like many of the early pioneering adventurers, have a deep love and which includes white rhino. More than 70 horses, ranging from Arab-Boerperd The Waterberg – literally the water mountain – is laced by appreciation of the Waterberg. Ant, a bear of a man, is as at home in the saddle as crosses to testy thoroughbreds, means everyone winding rivers that wend their way through ancient crumbling he was in a rugby scrum and has kind eyes, a warm manner and, judging from his from children to riding professionals can fi nd a rocks, which are in places nearly three billion years old. There are paintings, a strong artistic bent. Tessa came from Kenya where her family ran a steed. ‘People with no riding experience come here, several rock art sites and rock art smelting sites, which indicates beach hotel. After working as a tour operator in England she just happened to be and after one ride they are hooked,’ I’m told. that people have been living here for thousands of years. It was hitch-hiking through the Waterberg and the rest, as they say, is history. That got me going, and on my last morning here that Eugene Marais, one of South Africa’s greatest naturalists I pulled on a pair of chaps and threw my leg over a and authors, and one of the region’s most famous children, gained horse called Naivasha. We took a gentle walk along his inspiration. ‘We were living in a high, narrow valley,’ he wrote. the rocky ridge above Ant’s Hill and watched slivers ‘Plants grew and thrived wherever the smallest root-hold had of early light cut across the bushveld plains below. been gained either in the soil or in the living rock.’ We walked amongst a herd of zebra. Their muscles Thanks to conservation-minded individuals like Ant and Tessa, twitched as they saw us, but then they continued these kloofs, which lie only three hours north of Johannesburg, grazing. Walking slowly back to camp I realised it remain remarkably untouched. They have gained increasing was not only the mountain views from my private popularity in recent years because of the wilderness atmosphere, bush home that I would miss, but the people who the friendly and hands-on nature of its people, and the fact that had been my family while I was staying there. it offers great game viewing in a malaria-free area.

18 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA A NT’ S P RIVATE B USH H OMES 1919 The Waterberg is a special place where you can fi nd leopard alongside graceful sable antelope. Its a fantastic experience to end the day on a hilltop looking out over the wide plains.

ANT’S HILL is high on a hilltop looking out over the bushveld and has a tumbling freshwater stream that runs alongside it. The colourful rugs and kikois that decorate the spacious lodge interiors refl ect Tessa’s East African roots, whilst other subtle touches create a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

20 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA A NT’ S P RIVATE B USH H OMES 21 Garonga Safari Camp Maaai Conservanc SOUTH AFRICA

ernie Smith came to Africa from England that his guests get very special treatment and as a young man and fell in love with its enjoy what he has dubbed his ‘soul safari’. wild places. He travelled extensively and started Garonga is on stilts, with an indoor and outdoor collecting the ideas that he would eventually bring dining area and a rim-fl ow swimming pool that Garonga has a calm and very Bto his own lodge. He set his heart on Makalali – a melts into the bush beyond – and at night dozens special atmosphere. You can wild part of northern South Africa, west of the of lamps and candles give it a warm orange glow. feel it in the tranquil treetop famous – and in June 1997 he From the deck my eye was taken on a relaxing seating areas and in the lavish tents. The originality is largely opened Garonga. Whilst Bernie admits that many journey up a drainage line and into the deep bush thanks to its colourful and of his ideas come from other countries, Garonga with its fabulous trees. warm owner Bernie Smith (in was the fi rst in South Africa to offer massage There are just six tents, with white canvas the game-drive vehicle in a red treatments, include drinks in its rates and also not draped over softly contoured, burnt orange walls, shirt) and, as you can see from charge a singles supplement. It is also one of the which gives them a traditional safari atmosphere the at the front gate, it all best value lodges in South Africa, and Bernie, who with a generous touch of North African style. There works naturally. lives at the lodge full time, is there to make sure is a Zen garden, too, and every day thoughtful

22 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA G ARONGA S AFARI C AMP 23 notes such as ‘relax’ and ‘enjoy’ are raked in the sand. There are indoor and outdoor showers on Garonga is all about romance … offer, plus a hammock where you can lie and expect candle-lit dinners, decadent contemplate rattling francolins and lazily grazing picnics in the upper branches of a . Elephant also seem to like Garonga – and jackalberry tree and stilted tents that too. A small pride hung around the waterhole invite quiet contemplation. and observed the gingerly approaching groups of giraffe and impala. Little Garonga is even more intimate. The Hambleden, Chiltern and Buckingham Suites are fully en suite, with a central indoor and outdoor lounge. They have a private swimming pool, camp hosts and a chef. Bernie has created a romantic atmosphere – and Dining at Garonga he does so in a decidedly English and gentlemanly manner. Sleep-outs are offered on a platform in a distant section of the reserve, where guests are left ach month Bernie takes great pride in Cut out the centre of the bread with a for the night, swathed in netting and on a most Esending out recipes that have been tried round scone or biscuit cutter (optional). comfortable bed, to contemplate the wilderness. and tested by his chefs to past and prospective Beat the eggs lightly whilst adding the The game drives at Garonga are wonderfully guests. Here’s one of the favourites: orange and lemon zest. Heat some oil unhurried events. I also went on an educational in a saucepan and fry the bacon until walk, where we enjoyed the small things, such as FRENCH TOAST WITH CRISPY BACON crispy. Set aside. Heat some more oil spoor, beetles and seed pods. But if that is too slow AND BRIE CHEESE DRIZZLED WITH HONEY and, when hot, dip the bread into the for you there is the Exercise Walk. My favourite, The lodge is in a dramatic bushveld setting, egg mixture and fry off. When the with tall trees that make your heart melt 1 single serving though, was the Solitude Walk. ‘Walk a good and a waterway that wends its way into the bread is light golden brown in colour, distance apart and don’t say a word.’ At the end we distance. If you are not suffi ciently lulled by 3 slices bread Oil for frying remove from the pan and layer the egg were to sit alone and meditate to the sounds of the calmness of the experience, then there are 2 large free-range eggs 3 rashers bacon bread, bacon and Brie cheese. Drizzle a the bush. I looked up and watched a yellow-billed also massage treatments on offer. Zest of lemon 1 wedge Brie cheese drop of honey over the top for the fi nal hornbill rise and dip lazily through the sky above – Zest of orange Honey touch and enjoy! ahh, I thought, my soul safari is complete.

24 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA G ARONGA S AFARI C AMP 25 Jaci’s Safari Lodge Madiwe Game Reserve SOUTH AFRICA

ince 1997 Jaci van Heteren and her at school in Grahamstown, our private plane has husband, Jan, have lived in Madikwe replaced the family car for the school run. Our Game Reserve on the edge of the Kalahari, raising lodges are a fusion of our own travel experiences,’ Stheir three children with elephant, lion and wild she adds as she leads me into Jaci’s Safari Lodge. dog in their back yard, and at the same time Staying at Jaci’s Safari Lodge you feel part of creating a magical experience for their guests. the family – and the living areas ooze character. Jaci was born in , where her family The dining room is wide open to the kitchen and Safari Suite (above) and Nare spent all their holidays in the bush, and Jan ran there is a circular open hearth that draws visitors Suite (below) offer families and small groups an exclusive restaurants in Pretoria. So when they met, married together before game drives or for a friendly chat safari experience in the African and had children, the creation of Jaci’s Lodges was on chilly winter evenings. There are sofas on which bush – a home away from home a natural step for them both. to relax and read books and a winding staircase complete with swimming pools ‘We live the ultimate life,’ says Jaci. ‘We have leading up to the bar. plus private guides and game no locks on the doors and no curtains. Jan has ‘The trailing thatch is a throwback to our parents’ drive vehicles. his pilot’s licence and, since our children are now holiday home in ,’ she says. ‘The

The swing bridge leading to Jaci’s Safari Lodge is ‘guarded’ by a pack of metal wild dogs. It takes you over the river and into the reception area where fun, originality and friendliness abound. This is what Jaci’s is all about.

26 J ACI ’ S S AFARI L ODGE 27 lodges are our home and they are furnished with The safari tents (above left) and living things we fi nd on our travels – I can spot a good areas are decorated with vibrant colours. buy doing 120 k’s per hour and a typical journey will Madikwe Game Reserve’s biggest success include several stops to make a new purchase or story, as well as challenge, has been place an order for the curio shops.’ reintroducing wild dog (below) to the Jaci’s Safari Lodge is wonderfully original in its reserve. It remains one of the best design, with bright colours and special touches, places in Africa to see these animals. adding to the overall style. The ‘tents’ are a mix of canvas and mortar, giving you the very best of both worlds. The river in front of the lodge attracts many animals and guests can often enjoy a spot of game viewing from their private decks or the privacy of the Nare Suite, which is situated over the river. The Lodge, which Jan designed, is built its own waterhole. from rosewood and thatch. You arrive at ground The eight ‘tents’, set in an established garden, level and are soon elevated on walkways within the have fl aps to let in all the sounds of the bush while leafy canopy of a tamboti forest. offering the solid luxury of a chalet. There are also The Jaci’s Tree Lodge rooms are extra wide, with two exclusive family suites: the Nare Suite (once large fold-out doors that invite the forest into the Jaci’s family home) accommodates six guests, and room, king-sized double beds and oversized marble JACI’S SAFARI LODGE the Safari Suite caters for up to eight. Both feature baths – a fi rst choice for romantics. It is also After an evening game drive, Children are important at Jaci’s and game drives are arranged with a guide who is trained to entertain and a plunge pool and come with a private guide and decorated with Jaci’s eclectic colours. guests return to their warmly lit instruct youngsters. Guests can choose between a ‘family drive’ for children fi ve years and older or a ‘jungle drive’ game drive vehicle. At Jaci’s Lodges, they talk about the Top Ten, rooms such as those in the Nare for the littlies – four years and younger – during the day. All the children get a special box to store their seed Jaci’s Tree Lodge, upstream from Jaci’s Safari namely black and white rhino, buffalo, hippo, Suite (top), while others meet in pods and other treasures, and a colourful ‘tick list’ with some of the most common species found on the reserve. Lodge, is built on gently sloping ground overlooking brown and , lion, elephant, giraffe, the upstairs bar.

28 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA J ACI ’ S S AFARI L ODGE 29 A trust in people

he friendliness and warm hospitality found at TJaci’s is no accident. The company sources all its staff from neighbouring communities and involves them in decisions about running the lodge. It has also started the Jaci’s Staff Trust, which is made up of 25.1% of shares in Jaci’s Safari Lodge (Pty) Ltd. ‘There can be no better shareholders in our company than the people who are actually looking after our guests,’ say Jan and Jaci. ‘We believe that this is a true empowerment opportunity for staff who stay with the company to become shareholders in the company that they helped to build.’ ‘The fi rst fi ve members were women and so are the majority of the 25 staff members who now make up the trust,’ adds Jaci. ‘Shows who has the staying power!’

‘I am happy … I don’t know what to say. None of the other lodges have a staff trust … only my darling Jaci and Jan. It means that I can work JACI’S TREE LODGE This entire lodge, including the leopard, and, Jaci’s personal favourite, the hard looking after Jaci’s Lodge and have something in my account to endangered . But the excitement dining area, outdoor boma, reading areas and bedrooms, has look after me when I am too old to work any more.’ AGGAI SEPHAI (RECENTLY of the bush is also about the small things such as been built high in the canopy of the riverine forest. A GRANDMOTHER) dung beetles, chameleons and mongooses. Families are made to feel especially welcome in ‘I am so proud to be part of the Staff Trust, as it shows we are good this malaria free area. On a special children’s drive, trustworthy people at Jaci’s. We wish our best for this company that does I was nine all over again and made a toothbrush such a good thing by giving us a Staff Trust. I am really happy as I am from a gwarrie bush, sipped hot chocolate on the saving money for my children and my old age.’ NAOMI MODISE (MOTHER) airstrip, and won the contest to see who could spit antelope dung the furthest! ‘To me the Staff Trust means a serious commitment from the original Both lodges refl ect the personalities of Jaci and shareholders to the people on the ground. It means that I, as a part owner, Jan; down-to-earth people who love nature, good am now looking after my own and the reward is shared with me. But let food, good company and are full of fun. The staff, me also say that I love the product, Jaci’s. It is not diffi cult for me to be who become shareholders after fi ve years’ service, enthusiastic...’ PERRY DELL (MOTHER) also nurture the spirit of hospitality that is Jaci’s and it is not surprising that it draws many people, including myself, for second, third and fourth visits. Their warm hospitality, child-friendly policies and innovative designs and ways of doing things have also won them much acclaim. In 2004 and 2005 Jaci’s Lodges were voted by guests to be the Best Game Lodge in South Africa. They were included in the Tatler Best Hotels in the World in 2005, and in 2006 were runners-up in House & Leisure and Getaway magazines. In 2007 readers of Getaway voted Jaci’s Best Game Lodge in South Africa.

30 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA 31 Makakatana Bay Lodge S mangais W an P SOUTH AFRICA

akakatana Bay Lodge was the fi rst lake in Africa, and provides cool relief in the steamy privately owned luxury safari destination summer heat. The interiors are fresh and original to be established on the shores of Lake St Lucia, with Leigh-Ann’s vibrant artworks alongside Mwithin the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, the fi rst nostalgic black-and-white photos depicting the World Heritage Site to be declared in South pioneering days. Africa. The lodge is family owned and situated Typically you’ll take dinner around the fi re in the sensationally in lush forest on the western shores boma or out on a deck where you will savour the of Lake St Lucia, the core wetland of a conservation pleasures of excellent service, food – and maybe area that covers 332,000 hectares including a view of hippos coming to drink at the fl oodlit 300km2 of lake, wild Indian Ocean coastline, dense waterhole. The wines are served at perfect ‘room forests and open grasslands in northern Zululand temperature’: they are stored in an old block stretching up to the Mozambique border. structure that a strangler fi g tree has grown over, The Morrison family settled at Makakatana in called the Crab House, where swimming crabs

Makakatana is situated on the early 1900s when Jock Morrison set up trading and fi sh used to be kept before being transported stores in the area. James (Jimmy) and Ursula to the markets in Durban. The Crab House is now the shores of Lake St Lucia Morrison then lived at Makakatana for 50 years an intimate, authentic wine cellar and romantic estuarine lagoon in the before Hugh and Leigh-Ann moved into the family dining option. iSimangaliso Wetland Park home when they decided to build the lodge in 1998. Makakatana’s forests ring with the songs of which brings guests up close It is a wonderful facility from which they can share secretive birds such as robin-chats, greenbuls, to the wonders of South the wonders and history of the area with their batises and turacos, as well as the calls of Africa’s fi rst-declared World guests while they enjoy the comforts of the lodge. innumerable insects and the quiet footfalls of shy Heritage Site. A pair of zebras Raised decks give guests at Makakatana easy antelope. These include bushbuck and red duiker, (above right) mirror one access to the six air-conditioned suites. Each is which you might surprise around any corner. another against green summer tucked into a shady nook in the subtropical sand On the fringes of the forest you might see , The suites are beautifully appointed, on the fringe of the foliage. forest on the edge of the lake, the largest marine or reedbuck. Guided walks are offered subtropical forest that lines the shores of Lake St Lucia.

32 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA 33 pelican, which breed here, rufous-bellied heron and lesser jacana. The primary reason for this area being declared a World Heritage Site is its amazing variety of natural habitats, and Makakatana is a wonderful place to absorb the wonders of one of Africa’s most iconic conservation areas. Longer day trips are also offered to Hhluhluwe- Imfolozi Park. Set aside in the early 1800s by King Shaka as his royal hunting ground, in 1895 the area was proclaimed a game reserve by the British colonial authority after it had subdued the Zulu nation in the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879/80. This is Africa’s oldest game reserve, the place where,

starting in the 1960s, the white rhino was brought Leigh-Ann Morrison’s vibrant back from the brink of extinction; it is also one of African artworks bring individual the few places remaining where both black and energy and colour into the lodge’s white species enjoy sanctuary. bedrooms, all of which are air- This is in every respect a fascinating area to visit conditioned (above). Guests and it is one of the very few in Africa where you experience friendly hospitality and can watch rhino at a waterhole, take a private boat cruise up St Lucia’s mangrove-lined estuary and delicious meals in this charming spot whale sharks cruising the coral sea – all on family-owned lodge. the same day.

Inquisitive giraffes watch the with experienced guides, or you could take a game progress of a group of trailists drive along the shore of Lake St Lucia. Picnics are A History of Conservation At Perriers Rock Beach on the coast, on a nature walk (above). At set up on the lake edge or near one of the satellite the forested dunes of the Eastern the lodge guests cool off at pans, which are visited by elephant, rhino, hyena, Shores are lapped by the Indian the lake-side swimming pool. giraffe, buffalo and even that shiest of all cats, Ocean, which offers wonderful Trips on St Lucia Estuary in leopard. Almost certain to be seen are the resident opportunities for swimming (left). Makakatana’s private boat hippos and crocodiles to remind you that you Hugh, Leigh-Ann and their son really are in wildest Africa. (right) allow guests the chance Christopher in front of the original One activity not to be missed at Makakatana is to experience the wonders of trading store that was established by a trip up The Narrows in the lodge’s private boat. this World Heritage Site. Jock Morrison in the early 1900s. It’s a gentle two- to three-hour journey passing both mangrove and subtropical forests. This is a true adventure replete with crocodiles and hippos, and great birding is virtually guaranteed. After returning to shore, guests are settles in a shady spot for a picnic with chilled wine and a chance to swap stories before returning to the lodge. ake St Lucia’s 300-square-kilometre expanse of named iSimangaliso (the miracle) Wetland Park. It has Nearby Cape Vidal has what are reputed to be Lopen water and narrow channels makes it the fi ve major ecological zones: the marine ecosystem with the highest vegetated coastal dunes in the world, largest marine estuary in Africa. This has helped to its coral reefs, whales and dolphins; the Eastern Shores as well as the world’s most southerly coral reefs secure its status as a RAMSAR wetland of international with its golden beaches on the coast hugging the dune lying off the sweeping white beaches. importance. In 1999 the lake and surrounding beaches, forests; Lake St Lucia itself; the Mkuze Swamps with its For bird-watchers the area is a dream, with some forests, wetlands and grasslands became South Africa’s papyrus beds; and the savanna and thornveld of the 370 species including such specials as pink-backed fi rst World Heritage Site and the area has since been Western Shores.

34 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA M KAKAT ANA B AY L ODGE 35 Motswari Private Game Reserve Timbvati Ntu Reserve

SOUTH AFRICA M otswari Private Game Reserve is a again and again by its owners to bring out its deep vintage-style safari camp located in and interesting character. Unlike many new and the Timbavati Private Game Reserve, a seamless corporate lodges, which have stripped off these An unexpected sight from the pool extension of the Kruger National Park that offers layers of history, the highly polished patina is still at Motswari as elephants slake the same wonderful diversity of animals and intact at Motswari and this is what gives it its their thirst in the the Sohebele wildlife as that iconic wildlife preserve. Like many wonderful timeless feel. River (opposite). Many of the staff of the great safari camps, Motswari is family owned Wherever you go within the lodge, whether at Motswari, including Minah and is run with the strong philosophy that guests in the rooms, out on the patios or in the eclectic Khosa, have been working here should be welcomed into an authentic home-like sculpture garden, there is a sense of Marion’s for 20 years or more (above left). atmosphere. The lodge was purchased in 1981 by impeccable taste and artistry. And lying within Indigenous plants not only use less businessman Paul Geiger, an enterprising German the layers are the stories, the history and artistry water but they draw a variety of with a South African heart, as a family holiday that encapsulate the Lowveld wilderness spirit. species such as nyala to the lodge. retreat, and was later developed as a commercial Marion’s sensational and colourful creations, many Walking along the Sharalumi river, lodge where visitors would be welcomed. Motswari drawn using thatch dipped in household paint, trailists look out for hippos and other animals (below). means ‘to conserve and protect’ in the Tswana adorn the walls. She has also employed local artists language and the integrity of the original lodge, the to create their own visions – some have been hewn land where it is situated and also the people who from rough bits of wood, or fashioned using wire, run it fi t this ethic perfectly. The current owners are stones and even old plumbing fi ttings. Guests Marion Geiger, Paul’s daughter, and her husband cannot help but be transfi xed by the creativity of Fabrice. Together they are building on the authentic this place and visiting artists are encouraged to traditions that were started by Marion’s father more contribute to the growing sculpture garden. than 30 years ago. Motswari has a sister camp called Motswari The 15 thatched rondavels convey the spirit of Private Camp that overlooks the Nhlaralumi River. a vintage camp, but they are air-conditioned and Its fi ve double en-suite bedrooms come with have been tastefully decorated with furniture their own staff, including a guide and game drive that has been collected over the years by the vehicle, and are ideal for small groups or families. family at auctions and sales. I was reminded of a Motswari is a happy place and you can sense fi ne French antique – one that has been polished this through the personnel. There are many

36 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA M OTSWARI P RIVATE G AME R ESERVE 37 second-generation staff members here, but the one whose story is most captivating is that of Godfrey Mathebula. He grew up at the lodge with Marion, and remembers a time when, both dusty and runny-nosed after a day’s play, they would share an orange. Marion’s father promised Godfrey that when he fi nished school there would be a place for him and he is now the Assistant General Manager. I also met Fico Rexon, who has been working at Motswari for 25 years and still waits tables with a wonderful smile. Dozens of women employed from the local villages are dressed in uniforms of many colours, all with ready smiles that add a warm-hearted vibrancy to the experience for guests. ‘They are my butterfl ies,’ says Marion. Motswari has recently been certifi ed as a member of the Fair Trade in Tourism South Dinners are served Africa Association, but in reality the lodges’ owners out on the deck, have been practising Fair Trade principles all along. There are no health spas or gyms at Motswari. where guests can Motswari offers breakfast after your game Instead I found a skipping rope and a yoga mat watch the stars and drive, lunch before your afternoon activity and in my room and enjoyed wonderful walks around animals as they come to drink (above). then dinner served out on the decks or in the the camp’s indigenous gardens. I was delighted wonderful boma. The dining was superb and the by the calls of the woodland kingfi shers, by the lunches, which were delivered with ceremony (and butterfl ies, the moths, the resident baboons, a song) by the colourfully dressed kitchen staff, monkeys and nyala, and by the large breeding were an absolute smorgasbord of delicious, freshly herds of elephants that came to drink at the river. prepared breads, salads and desserts. They too seemed to sense that Motswari is a very special place. Motswari is in the far northeastern part of Timbavati and the Kruger National Park the bordering Kruger National Park and has traversing rights over ruger National Park is one of the oldest game reserves in the world and one of the largest more than 12 800 hectares, including some K in Africa, covering more than 24 000 square kilometres. To the west of this great park and wonderful stretches of the Sohobele, Nhlaralumi, offering the same stunning diversity of wildlife are private tracts of land where game viewers can and Machaton rivers. It is easiest to see game enjoy off-road driving, wonderful hospitality and other personalised services that are not offered during the dry season (March to October) when by the national park authority. One of the fi nest examples of these areas is Timbavati, which was the bush is least dense, but it’s also wonderful to established in 1953 by a collection of like-minded farmers. When the fenced boundary between visit the area in the rainy season (December to the private land and Kruger was dropped in the 1990s, Timbavati became part of one of the most March) when the vegetation is lush and dramatic prestigious wildlife areas in the world. thunderstorm clouds build up above the plains The region has also become synonymous with white lions, which fi rst came to public attention in and the normally dry rivers. During my summer the 1970s with Chris McBride’s book White Lions of the Timbavati. The animals’ white coloration visit there were sightings of wild dog, lion and is caused by a recessive gene that is thought to represent an evolutionary stage in the progressive several leopard (the area is particularly renowned Motswari guests can look forward to a classic loss of pigmentation. Thus a litter may contain both tawny and white cubs. The lack of pigmen- for these cats), as well as buffalo, rhino and safari experience, including exciting game tation does not seem to affect their survival. White lions regularly occur in the Timbavati and a innumerable elephant. I sensed that the guides drives (opposite middle), accommodation number are also occasionally seen in the Kruger Park. Interesting to note is that all white lions in here really love what they do – and that not in luxurious thatched chalets and delectable the world are ancestrally linked to those of the Timbavati. Motswari camp lies in the territory of A photograph of a taken by Motswari only means showing guests big game but also evening meals served beneath the stars in the these charming cats – and the Kubasa pride, which includes two white females and a white male. guide Chad Cocking. explaining about the intricacies of the bush. boma (left).

38 C L ASSIC S AFARI C AMPS OF A FRICA M OTSWARI P RIVATE G AME R ESERVE 39